Monday 29 June 2015

IN THE SHADOW OF CATHEDRAL PEAK

Quathlamba
“A mass of spears. Named thus by the Zulu warriors before the white man came. Today called the Drakensberg, mountains of the Dragon, a name given by the Voortrekkers. Evocative names, both equally applicable to South Africa’s mightiest mountain range with its spear-like peaks – reminiscent of the saw-toothed spine of a gigantic dragon.”
Panorama April 1966


This blog is all about the Drakensberg Mountains and its Wilderness area, South Africa. I have lost my heart and soul to this area and every single time I hike these mountains, I stand in awe all over again at this magnificent beauty.
"How often in the course of our travels through Kwazulu-Natal do we stop and gaze at the beauty of a distant range of mountains? The Drakensberg stands as a monument to one of the greatest cataclysms the Earth has experienced. As you approach the mountains, you realize why early Zulus called it "Quathlamba", meaning “Barrier of Up-pointed Spears". A cradle of rivers. Listen to the streams as they gurgle from their cradles and you will hear the story of the mountains. You will hear fascinating tales if only you listen! Lie next to a stream and listen to the song of the mountains. The smiling faces of the flowers, dancing in the wind. Venture into the remote valleys or stand on a peak at sunrise or sunset, after snow has fallen, and you will hear a song that you will never forget - the Song of the High Mountain". (DA Dodds)
Hiking adventures, hiking gear reviews, day walks, accommodation, books, articles and photos, all related to these magnificent mountains will feature here.
Should you want to accompany me on a hike or need some information or advice, please make contact with me. I hope you enjoy the articles.
Please visit the archive for some more interesting stories, photos and reviews.

Available in the Archive (Do read it!)
1) Injasuthi to Lotheni - Epic 6 Day Hike
2) Review: Hi-Tec Altitude Pro RGS Hiking Boots
3) Drakensberg Wilderness Hiking - 14 Day Hiking trip - Lotheni Reserve (Part 3)
4) Lotheni - 14 Day Hiking Trip (Part 2)
5) Lotheni - 14 Day Hiking Trip (Part 3)
6) The Bushmen of the Drakensberg
7) Thunderstorms in the Drakensberg Mountains
8)  Before setting out on a hike………..
9)  Cathkin Peak – Drakensberg
10) Why backpack and multi-day hiking
11) Safety in the Drakensberg
12) In the Shadow of Cathedral Peak

Please note that all photos on this blog are copyright protected. If you would like to obtain

Photos please make contact with the author, Willem Pelser.




IN THE SHADOW OF CATHEDRAL PEAK

“Go out alone on the hills and listen. You will hear much. The winds will hold for you something more than sound; the streams will not be merely the babbling of hurrying water. The trees and the flowers are not so separate from you as they are at other times, but very near; the same substance, the same rhythm, the same song binds you to them. Alone amidst nature, a man learns to be one with all and all with one.”

FS Smythe





   Ask the tribes who live in the Ntonjelana Valley the name of the high barrier which separates the Mnweni from the Cathedral Peak valleys, and each and every one of them will reply, “AbaMponjwana” (Ridge of Horns). The most northern peak, Cathedral Peak, they call Mponjwana (Little Horn) and know it by no other name. Surely this name must have been in use by the Amangwane tribe even before the European settlers arrived in the foothills?

   Cross this barrier and you will be transported into a land of streams, forests and grasslands where wild animals still roam as they did before the hunter arrived. High above stands the Cathedral Peak with its spire pointing towards the heavens, where the noise of the wind echoes from the Organ Pipes across to Mitre and the Bell. If you stand on the summit of Cleft Peak, which could well be called the Altar, you can almost hear “Gloria in Excelcis” from the choirs of lesser peaks.





In 1847 a mission station called “Emmaus” was built here by the Reverend K. Posselt and another missionary named Guldenpfennig at the request of the Government of Natal. The site they chose was only a short distance away from Chief Zikhali’s kraal. At this lonely mission station dedicated men preached the Gospel to the local tribe but converts were few.

   The mission’s peaceful existence was disturbed when Bushmen raiders swooped down and stole their cattle. Inn 1868 Mandisa, a headman living near the Umlambonja River, also lost cattle during a raid. As soon as the raid was reported a party set off and, on reaching the top of the escarpment, recovered all the cattle except a few which were killed or wounded by the raiders. This was not the only occasion when Mandisa had lost his cattle.

   Magistrate MacFarlane led a party that investigated the route used by the Bushmen and found that it led up the Ndedema. They suggested blasting a section of the route thus making it impassable. However, from 1874 on-wards there were no more Bushmen raids.




   Who it was who actually gave Cathedral Peak the name it has borne for so many years is not known, but it is possible that the missionaries at Emmaus gave the peak its name, an obvious one for a peak with a spire situated next to a perfect bell. Years later the Organ Pipes and the Mitre were added to the religious theme.

   In 1850 the Reverend Carl Zunckel replaced the Reverend Posselt and there he lived and worked among the Amangwane tribe until 1891. Two other mission stations were started – Emangweni near Cathkin in 1863 and Hoffenthal in 1869 in the Mnweni area.

   European settlers living on the plains seemed to favor cattle farming, but lung sickness reduced their herds so drastically that eventually they resorted to sheep farming., and between 1920 and 1930 certain Orange Free State farmers, who also owned farms in the Cathedral Peak area, send their flocks to the grasslands of the Berg for winter grazing. The Little Berg was public commonage and farmers paid 12 pounds per year for grazing rights.

   Wilhelm Zunckel, son of the Reverend C. Zunckel, also farmed in the area where his flock of sheep and goats were often cared for by his son, Otto. A cave in the upper Mhlwazine called Zunckel’s cave was often used to shelter the flock.

   The Rev. C. Zunckel died in 1899. His grandson, Otto, as well as his three sons, Walter, Udo and Gerald, is well known to people who have visited the hotels in the Drakensberg over the years.

   Situated in a unique setting, completely surrounded by mountains, is the popular Cathedral Peak Hotel. The original farms Inhoek and Schaapkraal were purchased by Philip van der Riet in 1937. It was not long before a site for a hotel was carefully chosen, having a uninterrupted view of Cathedral Peak, the Bell and the two Horns. In 1939 the first guests were welcomed.




    Albert van der Riet, son of Phillip, and his wife Doreen certainly worked hard in those early days as the hotel became one of the most popular mountain resorts in the country.

   Life in the secluded valley was not always peaceful. On several occasions the Van der Riet’s were called upon to organize rescue parties to go to the aid of someone who was reported as lost, or to recover the body of a climber who had fallen. Mountaineers will always remember the kindness and courtesy of the proprietor and his wife and of Sonya van der Riet, who has always been a great help to climbers.

   A colorful character at Cathedral Peak for many years was John the Guide, who was a most popular figure among the visitors. It was his task to lead parties. He assisted in most of the mountain rescues in the Cathedral Peak area and was the first black man ever to climb the Bell – more or less dragged up it by George Thompson.

   From the hotel the Cathedral Ridge dominates the western horizon. The spur extends at right angles from the main Berg and consists of the Puddings, Cathedral Peak, the Bell, Outer and Inner Horn, the Chessmen, Mitre and Triplets.

   Cathedral Peak is situated at the northern end of the Cathedral Ridge and from its summit a magnificent panoramic view of the whole range can be seen. It is one point where one can get a bird’s eye-view of the Mnweni area.




The peak itself was first climbed via the gully in 1917 by D.W Bassett-Smith and R.G. Kingdon. Since then thousands of visitors have stood on the summit.

   The Bell, perfect in shape, is one of the wonders of the Drakensberg. For many years mountaineers traversed its grassy ledges trying to find a possible route to the summit. Some thought it quite impossible; others felt that it might prove a straight forward climb. Eventually, on 17th January 1944, the Bell was tolled by Hans and Else Wongtschowski. Hans described the climb as “an anti-climax to those who expected the Bell to be impossible, unclimbable and unjustifiable.”

   The flat topped summit of the Outer Horn was conquered in 1934, while in 1925 the Inner Horn was climbed. These two bastions have been referred to as the Horns for many years but some tribes living to the north maintain that the name is derived from the outline between the horns which resembles a Kudu’s horn.

   The Chessmen are well named. They have stood rigid for thousands of years while the wisps of cloud dodge in and out of the pawns, castles, knights, kings and queens and bishops, watched by the Mitre.

The Mitre was first ascended in 1938. Close to the Mitre are the Triplets, a peak also called the Twins with three distinct summits which are visible from the escarpment as well as the valley below. On the northern side a fine cave called Twins cave, is always a welcome sight to the tired climber, particularly in bad weather.




   A contour path extends from the Cathedral Peak Hotel all the way past Cathkin Peak to end in the Injasuthi Valley. It was started by Van Heyningin in 1937. From the hotel this path skirts the Cathedral Ridge and crosses the Umlambonja River beneath the Umlambonja Buttress, a long flat-topped buttress with a vertical face.  In and out of the numerous valleys the path contours at about 2000 meters under the Elephant, the Cockade and its plumes, and passes around the pride of the Cathedral area, the Pyramid and the Column.




   The Pyramid is more difficult to climb than the Bell and was first ascended in 1936. It was on this peak that the legendary George Thomson started his climbing career.

   George, a New Zealander, arrived in South Africa at the age of 40, having lived most of his life in the wild and rugged parts of his native land. Anyone who had the pleasure of accompanying him on one of his long trips across the Berg will confirm that his strength and fitness were exceptional.

   His love of the high mountains attracted George to the Cathedral Peak Hotel where building operations were in progress, and as he was a carpenter, it was not long before he was hard at work, his keen eyes watching the clouds swirling around the summits.

    He started his climbing career when he accompanied Stan Rose in the third attempt at the Pyramid. George asked whether he could have a crack at it, and soon they were on the summit. This fired his enthusiasm and it was not long before he stood on the summit of the Bell, again a third attempt.

   After he became familiar with the Hooper route on the Bell he repeatedly led experienced as well as inexperienced climbers to the summit.

     The call of the higher peaks got the better of him. On the 9th December 1945 he gathered a few enthusiasts and set off to look at the Column. From the base the peak looked quite impregnable. Even the most experienced climbers were of the opinion that the climb was hardly practical. However, in the end one of his party agreed to climb with him – only to beat a retreat and descend after the first pitch. George was determined to get to the summit. On and on he climbed alone, having thrown down the rope earlier. His friends watched this amazing feat with intense anxiety. At length they saw a minute figure standing on the summit. The impossible had been achieved.




The drama was not over when George reached the summit. He still had to descend. Alone he stood. There was no rope with which he could abseil and the exposure was considerable. As he started to descend his foothold gave way, and after falling about 10 meters he grabbed a protruding Erica bush and, with only a minor injury, climbed down to the base. Had he missed the Erica or not been able to grab it, he certainly would have fallen to his death 200 meters below.

   At age 54 George could still outpace the fittest.

   George’s last feat was in December 1948, when he and Charles Gloster climbed the western flank of the outer Mnweni Pinnacle, a climb with tremendous exposure and of extreme difficulty.

   In addition to rock climbing he loved to visit the various rock shelters and study the Bushman paintings.

   In 1949 he left his beloved mountains and went to live in Zimbabwe. His name will live forever. He was one of the most extraordinary characters who have lived, roamed and climbed in the mighty Drakensberg.

   The hotel route to Cleft Peak climbs past the Camel and the Nose and then zigzags to the base of Castle Buttress, up through the Windy Gap. The final slog up Organ Pipes Pass brings one to the top of the escarpment. 




   Cleft Peak lies to the north-west of the Indumeni Dome and is one of the highest peaks in South Africa. The view from its summit gives without a doubt the finest panoramic view from the edge of the Drakensberg escarpment. Cleft was first climbed in 1941 via a diagonal route, and in 1946 via the cleft.

   From the top of Organ Pipes Pass there are 2 passes that lead down. The first is via the Tutumi Ridge and the second, commonly used by the Basotho, is down the Tutumi Valley into the Ndedema. From the bottom of the Tutumi Ride the contour path is crossed once again.




   The contour path becomes a road before it enters the old research area. High above the Indumeni Dome, Windsor Castle and Little Saddle are part of the escarpment.

   The road ends on a knoll where the path descends far down into the wonderful world of the Ndedema Gorge – a paradise of forest and sandstone cliffs, once a favorite haunt of the Bushmen who hunted wild animals and chose to decorate the sandstone faces of the Ndedema to display some of the most important primitive art ever found.




   Spend a stormy night in the Sebaaieni cave, close to where the contour path crosses the Ndedema River, and you will agree with the tribes who named it ”Ndedema”, which means “the reverberating one”. As the thunder echoes through the gorge and, as the waters rush towards it, so the noise of the large oval, basalt boulders being moved about by the force of the rushing water adds to the noise of the thunder and racing waters.

   The Ndedema River rises on the High Berg and flows over the edge of the Ndedema Falls, watched by the Sphinx and Sugar Loaf and guarded by the Ndedema Dome.




   After the contour path has crossed the Ndedema River, a long climb leads to the slopes of Eastman Peak, named after “Grandpa Eastman”, a Cape climber, and then descends into the Nkosazana Valley and River. This river has its source on the slopes of Champagne Castle and passes fairly closely to the Nkosazana Cave and crashes down into the Nkosazana Valley, the head of which is called the Vultures Retreat, and lies between the Litter and Dragon’s Back. After crossing the Nkosazana River the contour path skirts Ntunja to enter the deep wide valley of the upper Mhlwazine.




So how come your backpack is not packed yet? Do a 6 day hike and go and explore. You will not be sorry!

The End………..



Acknowledgements

Compiled by -  Willem Pelser
Extract from the book  - “A Cradle of Rivers – The Natal Drakensberg” - 
                                               D.A. Dodds

Photos from  - “A Cradle of Rivers – The Natal Drakensberg” - 
                                               D.A. Dodds

Wednesday 24 June 2015

SAFETY IN THE DRAKENSBERG

Quathlamba
“A mass of spears. Named thus by the Zulu warriors before the white man came. Today called the Drakensberg, mountains of the Dragon, a name given by the Voortrekkers. Evocative names, both equally applicable to South Africa’s mightiest mountain range with its spear-like peaks – reminiscent of the saw-toothed spine of a gigantic dragon.”
Panorama April 1966


This blog is all about the Drakensberg Mountains and its Wilderness area, South Africa. I have lost my heart and soul to this area and every single time I hike these mountains, I stand in awe all over again at this magnificent beauty.
"How often in the course of our travels through Kwazulu-Natal do we stop and gaze at the beauty of a distant range of mountains? The Drakensberg stands as a monument to one of the greatest cataclysms the Earth has experienced. As you approach the mountains, you realize why early Zulus called it "Quathlamba", meaning “Barrier of Up-pointed Spears". A cradle of rivers. Listen to the streams as they gurgle from their cradles and you will hear the story of the mountains. You will hear fascinating tales if only you listen! Lie next to a stream and listen to the song of the mountains. The smiling faces of the flowers, dancing in the wind. Venture into the remote valleys or stand on a peak at sunrise or sunset, after snow has fallen, and you will hear a song that you will never forget - the Song of the High Mountain". (DA Dodds)
Hiking adventures, hiking gear reviews, day walks, accommodation, books, articles and photos, all related to these magnificent mountains will feature here.
Should you want to accompany me on a hike or need some information or advice, please make contact with me. I hope you enjoy the articles.
Please visit the archive for some more interesting stories, photos and reviews.


Available in the Archive (Do read it!)
1) Injasuthi to Lotheni - Epic 6 Day Hike
2) Review: Hi-Tec Altitude Pro RGS Hiking Boots
3) Drakensberg Wilderness Hiking - 14 Day Hiking trip - Lotheni Reserve (Part 3)
4) Lotheni - 14 Day Hiking Trip (Part 2)
5) Lotheni - 14 Day Hiking Trip (Part 3)
6) The Bushmen of the Drakensberg
7) Thunderstorms in the Drakensberg Mountains
8)  Before setting out on a hike………..
9)  Cathkin Peak – Drakensberg
10) Why backpack and multi-day hiking
11) Safety in the Drakensberg

Please note that all photos on this blog are copyright protected. If you would like to obtain

Photos please make contact with the author, Willem Pelser.




Out of this nettle danger
We pluck this flower, safety.
Shakespeare

“It must be a poor life that achieves freedom from fear,” said Aldo Leopold, the great American conservationist. To which we might add the words of Henry David Thoreau: “But it is a characteristic of wisdom not to do desperate things.”
Perhaps that is just it. What is needed, we suggest, is a balanced viewpoint. Let us take all due precautions, but at the same time recognize that people need the challenge of high and perilous adventure. You will find this in the Drakensberg Mountains and Wilderness.



The Drakensberg has rich gifts to offer all who come to its soaring peaks and quiet valleys, but all too often the bright anticipation of the morning had ended in needless sorrow and regret.




   The Drakensberg continues to increase in popularity as a place for healthy recreation, as a place of escape from the tensions and turmoil of modern life, and as a place for spiritual refreshment. More and more people are coming to the Berg. And of course, because of this, more and more accidents happen.


   Ninety percent of these accidents should never happen. They are caused by sheer carelessness and negligence. The Drakensberg is a place of matchless beauty and grandeur. It has rich gifts for the suppliant who comes with humility and respect. But for the casual tripper who could not care less, for the man who goes blithely but mindlessly on his way, heedless of the advice of those who know, it can be a killer. We need to create a greater awareness of the possible hazards, and how to cope with them.




What can we do to avoid these totally unnecessary accidents?

   First of all, plan your journey well beforehand. Get hold of the many excellent maps that are available today. Study your map well before your trip and plan your route carefully.

   Secondly, make sure you are equipped adequately for the trip you have planned. Clothing and food supplies are largely a matter for personal taste, but there are certain essentials that must never be forgotten. Remember at all times to have plenty of warm clothing with you. Even on the hottest summer day blizzard conditions can blow up with startling suddenness. If you are on a summit trip take two sleeping bags with you, even in summer. Wind in cold weather can be a killer: make sure you have a windbreaker jacket with you. There are excellent jackets on the market. You will often get wet while on the march. Make sure you have a change of dry clothing for when you reach your night’s camping spot. Track suits are excellent for this purpose. Strong leather boots are better than shoes and “takkies” (and better than high heels!). To avoid blisters wear two pairs of socks, the inner thin, well soaped on the inside with soft shaving soap, and the outer thick knitted, with some talc powder between the two pairs.




   Food, even more than clothing, is a matter of personal choice, but make sure that what you select is light in weight. There are so many choices in the market that this should prove no problem. There is no point in carrying heavy tins of meat when a few packs of soup powder will do the job just as well.

   One very important point: always carry more food than you actually require. This need not be anything elaborate: a few extra slabs of chocolate, extra oatmeal – enough to keep body and soul together for a few days in an emergency.

   Always remember to fill in the Mountain Rescue Register at your point of entry into the Drakensberg, and to sign off when you return. THIS IS ESSENTIAL. These registers are available at all entry points. The information is essential for the rescue team in case you have an emergency or get lost. Much valuable time and effort can be wasted as a result of insufficient or incorrect information. The party, for instance, who died in the Ship’s Prow Pass in 1981 had filled in their route simply as “walk up Cathkin” which was both incorrect and meaningless. If there is a likelihood of your deviating from your planned route, you should say so. Even if you are going for a short walk in the Little Berg, an afternoon’s stroll; always tell someone where you are going.




   Summit trips to the inexperienced are particularly hazardous. It is wise to embark on these gradually. Don’t make your first trip to the summit a ten-day hike! Make your first trip a single-day one and learn what the summit is like. At Thendele, Cathedral Peak and Giant’s Castle it is possible to reach the summit and return in a day. Then go up and spend one night on the summit. See how you like sleeping out at 3050m. It may not be your cup of tea! After that is the time to plan for longer trips.

   It is wise to familiarize yourself with the various passes up to, and down from, the summit. The main escarpment is nothing but a gigantic sheer wall of rock, sometimes 305m high. There are only 12 to 15 well-known passes breaching this rock wall, and it is wise to know where they are. If you are caught in heavy snow on the summit you may want to go down quickly, and your only hope will be one of these passes.




   This brings us to the next point. If you are on the summit and the weather does show signs of breaking, it is best to get down as quickly as possible, especially if you have little experience of snow conditions. Sometimes, after days of snow, the passes become choked with snow and ice and it is impossible to get down.

   You are in the Drakensberg, the mist comes down, and you are lost. What do you do?

   On no account start stumbling around blindly in the mist. You will soon lose all sense of direction and could easily be lost for days. It is best to stay put until the mist rises. Sometimes however, the mist can last for days. Your food is running out: what do you do? If you are in the Little Berg, there should be no problem, especially if you are on a path. Keep to this path. But if you are really caught out, away from a path, and the mist persists, simply follow the nearest stream downwards. All streams in the Little Berg flow roughly from west to east, and will lead eventually either below the mist belt or to a habitation of some sort.

    If you are caught on the summit in the mist, it is a little more difficult, for here there are no paths and the mist can persist for days, especially in summer. It is still best to stay put, to sit it out, for it can be dangerous to start walking about in mist near the edge of the escarpment.

   But, if the mist last too long, your food is giving out, and you must seek help, the answer is this. Lesotho streams rising on the escarpment flow west into either the Khubedu or the Orange, both of which flow roughly south. If you follow any of the westerly streams you will, almost certainly, reach help within a day or so. Remember that human beings must have water, and that the Basotho’s always built their huts near streams. The mist will disperse at lower altitudes.




   A hiking party should ideally consist of three, one to remain with the victim if an accident occurs, and one to go for help.

   Too many people can ruin a party. The pace is always that of the slowest, but more important, there have been many cases of one man being missed in a large group, and his disappearance only noted on the return home that night. If you must hike in a large group, insist on the most experienced person being the last man, and the next most experienced person taking the lead. He must never let anyone get ahead of him, and he must also ensure that he is always within hailing distance of the last man. It is a wise precaution for both leaders to be equipped with whistles.

   Never stand on a rock (on the edge of a declivity, or crossing a stream) until you are quite sure it is firm. In climbing, never put your whole body weight on a rock until you have first tested it thoroughly. Be particularly careful in climbing not to dislodge a rock if there are others below you. Remember, Drakensberg basalt is friable.




   Make a special study of Drakensberg weather. Learn to interpret the cloud formations, the winds, and the signs that accompany a change in weather. Remember that the Drakensberg weather can change dramatically within a few minutes.

   Carry your passport with you if you venture on to the summit. One further word of warning: there have been a number of cases of hikers losing equipment to Basotho thieves. They will filch your boots from your tent while you are asleep! Worse still, there have also been confrontations between hikers and Basotho herdsman. On summit trips always have at least one man in your party, which should never consist of fewer than 3 members.

   Never camp for the night in a stream bed. Flash floods can and will be killers.




   Hypothermia is another killer. Remember that it is not so much the cold that kills, but cold plus wind plus wetness plus fatigue. Cold alone is seldom the cause of hypothermia. Warmly clad, a person can be quite comfortable at an outside temperature of 0 degree Celsius on a windless day. But let the wind speed rise to only 10 km/h and the result would be the same as if the temperature had dropped to minus 40 degree Celsius without the wind. The same applies to wetness. Water conducts heat away 240 times faster than air!

   It is, therefore, essential to stay warm, dry and out of the wind. Stress the importance of carrying plenty of warm clothing on a trip. In addition to warm woollies, a windproof, waterproof outer garment is absolutely essential.

   Remember, too, that body heat is lost must more rapidly from the head than any other part of the body. There is a hikers saying: “If your feet are cold, cover your head.”

   To treat hypothermia the patient must be moved out of the wind, all wet clothing stripped from him and replaced with warm, dry clothing. He must then be placed if possible in a pre-warmed double sleeping bag. Putting him in a sleeping bag with someone else is an excellent idea. Hot drinks (no alcohol) should be given. Extreme cases may need skilled medical attention.

   Know the precautions against snake bites.




   We have stressed the necessity for caution and experience in tackling the wonder-world of the Drakensberg. Bu we would not like to be misunderstood. There is another side to the coin.

   Man has a deep-seated, built-in urge to test himself against the hazards of life, to pit himself against the elements, and we believe it would be a sad day if the Drakensberg were ever made totally safe. It is the very element of danger that gives mountaineering and hiking its peculiar mystique. Man needs to know that deep satisfaction of discovering the limits of his abilities, of being able to stare, unblinking, into the face of danger, and to know that it was good. There is a risk that overemphasis of the hazards may become counter-productive, and may frighten people off who would become better men and women through having had to face danger and still remain unshaken.


The End


Acknowledgements:
From the book – Dragon’s Wrath – J Byrom & RO Pearce
Photos – Willem Pelser

Friday 19 June 2015

WHY BACKPACK AND MULTI-DAY HIKING?

Quathlamba
“A mass of spears. Named thus by the Zulu warriors before the white man came. Today called the Drakensberg, mountains of the Dragon, a name given by the Voortrekkers. Evocative names, both equally applicable to South Africa’s mightiest mountain range with its spear-like peaks – reminiscent of the saw-toothed spine of a gigantic dragon.”
Panorama April 1966


This blog is all about the Drakensberg Mountains and its Wilderness area, South Africa. I have lost my heart and soul to this area and every single time I hike these mountains, I stand in awe all over again at this magnificent beauty.
"How often in the course of our travels through Kwazulu-Natal do we stop and gaze at the beauty of a distant range of mountains? The Drakensberg stands as a monument to one of the greatest cataclysms the Earth has experienced. As you approach the mountains, you realize why early Zulus called it "Quathlamba", meaning “Barrier of Up-pointed Spears". A cradle of rivers. Listen to the streams as they gurgle from their cradles and you will hear the story of the mountains. You will hear fascinating tales if only you listen! Lie next to a stream and listen to the song of the mountains. The smiling faces of the flowers, dancing in the wind. Venture into the remote valleys or stand on a peak at sunrise or sunset, after snow has fallen, and you will hear a song that you will never forget - the Song of the High Mountain". (DA Dodds)
Hiking adventures, hiking gear reviews, day walks, accommodation, books, articles and photos, all related to these magnificent mountains will feature here.
Should you want to accompany me on a hike or need some information or advice, please make contact with me. I hope you enjoy the articles.
Please visit the archive for some more interesting stories, photos and reviews.

Available in the Archive (Do read it!)
1) Injasuthi to Lotheni - Epic 6 Day Hike
2) Review: Hi-Tec Altitude Pro RGS Hiking Boots
3) Drakensberg Wilderness Hiking - 14 Day Hiking trip - Lotheni Reserve (Part 3)
4) Lotheni - 14 Day Hiking Trip (Part 2)
5) Lotheni - 14 Day Hiking Trip (Part 3)
6) The Bushmen of the Drakensberg
7) Thunderstorms in the Drakensberg Mountains
8)  Before setting out on a hike………..
9)  Cathkin Peak – Drakensberg
10) Why backpack and multi-day hiking


 Follow me on Twitter: Drakensberg Hiking @SamtashTwo


Please note that all photos on this blog are copyright protected. If you would like to obtain   

Photos please make contact with the author, Willem Pelser.







Why Backpack and multi-day hiking?


   The KZN Drakensberg Mountains and Wilderness is a hiking paradise and exploration heaven. Hiking is the best way to explore this vast wilderness area. The term backpacking/hiking refers to the sport of walking with a backpack filled with everything one needs to survive a night or more in the wilderness, independent of anyone else.  Backpacking/hiking is not a competitive sport, although it forms the basis of serious mountaineering and adventure challenges.  It is more correct to refer to backpacking as a life-sport - an outdoor activity you can become good at and enjoy in any company, including that of your family and friends.

The main attractions of backpacking are:
   If you can walk, you can probably also backpack, although there is far more to it than just walking.  Carrying a backpack over rough, hilly country requires a considerable amount of mental fortitude and, unless you are already a seasoned athlete, it takes most people a minimum of 5 overnight hikes before they even begin to develop the mindset required for serious backpacking.


Following on from the above, you don't have to be athletic to become a "good" backpacker.  A casual study of any group of experienced backpackers will reveal all sorts of shapes and sizes, few of which would resemble that of a typical Comrades Marathon runner, Midmar Mile swimmer or Argus Tour cyclist!  If you could see inside their heads, though, you would find the same resolute purpose of mind!


   Once you have all your equipment, backpacking is a relatively cheap pastime, the most expensive part being the cost of getting to and from the Drakensberg.  Your food need not cost you much more than what you would spend at home over the same period of time, and the current overnight cost of R55.00 per person could probably cover luxury items, cell-phone calls and entertainment that you would indulge in if you stayed at home instead.


   Unless you plan to lead hikes commercially, no qualifications are required.  Many folk are happier to follow and put their trust in the leader.  Leaders must possess at least a little common sense and the ability to read a map. Do not rely on electronic navigation devices only; pack a map of the area and a compass as well.  Map-reading is an acquired skill and cannot really be taught.  Rather, you learn over a period of many years and through several mistakes which you purposely hope to avoid repeating!  It is doubtful if any leader can say he / she is 100% competent in map-reading - even the most experienced still make mistakes on occasion. Even if you are not a leader, you should take navigation seriously and try to acquire the necessary skills and experience yourself. Most leaders will welcome intelligent and informed participation in decision-making.


   Backpacking is a non-competitive life-sport, and one of the easiest ways to get fit.  You only compete with yourself, especially if you are one of the weaker hikers in your group.  You set yourself small, attainable goals en route, you stretch and challenge yourself little by little, and if you do this regularly - at least once a month - you will develop the mental fortitude characteristic of any serious athlete!  This is what sets a "good" backpacker apart from a novice - not his / her speed or strength - but the ability to press on despite physical fatigue, discomfort and nagging doubts about fitness.


   Backpacking allows you to "get away from it all". You exchange the phones, fax machine, computer, TV, VCR, DVD player, newspapers, noisy neighbor’s and crowded gyms and malls for the peace and tranquility of nature. You return to the rat-race feeling refreshed and renewed.


While the above may describe several other sports, backpacking/hiking has some draw cards which most others don't.  These are:
   The absolute beauty of a wilderness area like the KZN Drakensberg, which appeals to our romantic side.  Accompanying this is the clean, fresh mountain air and unpolluted streams.


   The deep-seated need that most of us have to go where no man has gone before, to visit new territory and explore new frontiers.  These may not be new to all men, but if they are new to you then they fulfill this need anyway!  When you do go far off the beaten track, the thought that always comes to mind is "Has any human being ever been here before?" The notion that the answer may be "No" is remarkably flattering - unless someone made a really bad decision about your route!


   There is a wonderful sense of self-sufficiency, tempered with a twinge of vulnerability that one experiences on long overnight hikes.  All the great explorers, the pioneers and the thousands of settlers of centuries past, would have been familiar with these emotions.  Backpacking helps perpetuate the mindset of all these people who left what was familiar and comfortable to forge a new life in a foreign land.  Perhaps backpacking will have helped keep the spirit of exploration alive for the time when mankind will make his first, tentative steps outside the solar system!


   Backpackers are survivors! Most experienced backpackers will agree that the best part of hiking is getting to their overnight destination. They may be physically tired, but they are satisfied with the day's work. If - through their planning and resourcefulness - they are also able to feel clean, comfortable, relaxed and at ease in their new surroundings without all the trappings of modern society, then they have the spirit of a survivor! Come war, natural disaster, or whatever crisis, these are the folk who will be numbered amongst the survivors!


   Whatever your reason for backpacking, it is bound to be slightly different to that of the other backpackers in your group.  For some the emphasis is on the exercise or the exploration, for others it’s the social side, and the romantic types will focus on the scenery.  But there is a little of everything for each of us!



Enjoy your hiking and look after the Wilderness. Protect, Defend and Preserve! Leave nothing but your tracks behind.

The End,

Willem Pelser

References:
Photos – Willem Pelser
Extracts – Author unknown