Drakensberg Wilderness Hiking South Africa - Mountain of the Dragons

Monday 30 May 2016

Northern Drakensberg - ROYAL NATAL NATIONAL PARK

Quathlamba

“A mass of Spears. Named thus by the Zulu warriors before the white man came. Today called the Drakensberg, Mountains of the Dragon, a name given by the Voortrekkers. Evocative names, both equally applicable to South Africa’s mightiest mountain range with its spear-like peaks – reminiscent of the saw-toothed spine of a gigantic dragon.”

Panorama April 1966

This blog is all about the Drakensberg Mountains and its Wilderness area, South Africa. I have lost my heart and soul to this area and every single time I hike these mountains, I stand in awe all over again at this magnificent beauty.

“Listen to the streams as they gurgle from their cradles and you will hear the story of the mountains. You will hear fascinating tales if only you listen! Lie next to a stream and listen to the song of the mountains. The smiling faces of the flowers, dancing in the wind. Venture into the remote valleys or stand on a peak at sunrise or sunset, after snow has fallen, and you will hear a song that you will never forget - the Song of the High Mountain". (DA Dodds)

Hiking adventures, hiking gear reviews, day walks, accommodation, books, articles and photos, all related to these magnificent mountains will feature here.

Should you want to accompany me on a hike, or need some information or advice, please make contact with me. I hope you enjoy the articles.

Please visit the archive for some more interesting stories, photos and reviews.

Please note that all photos on this blog are copyright protected. If you would like to obtain

Photos please make contact with the author, Willem Pelser.

“WHEN WE REACH THE WILDERNESS AND THE MOUNTAIN SUMMITS,

WE LEAVE BEHIND US ALL THE THINGS THAT WEIGH HEAVILY ON OUR BODY AND OUR SPIRIT”

Northern Drakensberg

ROYAL NATAL NATIONAL PARK

LOCATION

The park lies 72 km from Harrismith, via the Sterkfontein Dam and Over Oliviershoek Pass. It is 48km west of the small town of Bergville along a tarred road. The road is well sign posted.

The nearest town which has a full range of services is Bergville.

OVERVIEW

The Royal Natal National Park is the only national park in KwaZulu-Natal and is characterized by the amphitheater, a magnificent rock wall reaching heights of 500m, as well as the Thukela Valley and Gorge. Mont-aux-sources (3 282m), one of the peaks dominating the amphitheater is the source of 5 major rivers including the Tugela River, which plunges down as the Thukela Falls coming down in five steps as one of the highest waterfalls in the world. Other peaks dominating the scene are the Eastern Buttress (3 048m) and the Sentinel (3 165m) The Royal Natal National Park is one of the best-known and most popular destinations in the Ukhahlamba Drakensberg Park.

Adjoining Royal Natal is the Rugged Glen Reserve, which together are managed as one unit by Ezemvelo KZN Wildlife

CLIMATE

The weather is subject to change at short notice and hikers should be well equipped and fill in their details in the Mountain Rescue Register.

ACCOMMODATION

Mahai and Rugged Glen Campsites

An entrance fee is payable on arrival at the park’s entrance gate for day visitors. Visitors to these two campsites must arrive before sunset and report to the visitor’s centre. Reservations for campsites may be made by phoning the above number.

Mahai Campground

Mahai has camp facilities for 400 campers. Only camping and caravanning is available. The campsite is set among shady trees and there is a large central area where children can play in safety. There are 5 communal ablutions and washing up as well as laundry facilities are available. Electrical points are available on request in these camps.

Rugged Glen Campsite

Campsites are available for 45 people. There are communal facilities, including hot and cold water and electrical plug points.

The curio shop at the visitors centre sells limited food supplies and souvenirs.

Thendele Hutted Camp

Considered by many to be South Africa’s most popular mountain retreat, this highly sought after camp is set at the back of Dooley, high on the side of the slope and offers spectacular views of the Amphitheatre and Policeman’s helmet and Vemvaan Valley in the foreground. Views of the mountains can be seen from every bungalow. In winter the amphitheater is often covered in snow in winter or with up to eighteen waterfalls cascading down the vertical cliffs after a storm. The camp, which is split into upper and lower sections, consists of 26 comfortable self-contained chalets that accommodate either two or four people each. There are barbeque facilities next to each hut and a cook is available to prepare food for guests. Guests must supply food and beverages.

Cottages

There are also two delightful 6 bed cottages

Thendele Lodge

The lodge has 3 en-suite bedrooms and other facilities in keeping with 5 star accommodations in its own special space well away from the main camp. Each room has two single beds, a kitchen large living area and fireplace. There are barbeque facilities next to the lodge and a cook is available to prepare food for guests. Guests must supply food and beverages.

The cottages and the lodge each have their own cook who will prepare delicious meals from the provisions supplied by the visitors.

The camp management can be contact directly to find out if immediate cancellations exist on Thendele’s accommodation.

ACTIVITIES

Hiking

The most popular activity is hiking and the Royal Natal Park has 83km of self-guided walks. These walks afford views of incomparable scenery. Each of the 30 hikes is well marked and maintained in the reserve. Maps, hike descriptions and books are available at the visitor centre. Visitors are urged to leave information of their expected hiking routes with friends or at the visitors centre, in case the need for help may arise.

Popular hikes are listed below:

Short walks

Starting from Mahai campsite or the picnic ground.

Cascades and McKinlay’s Pool (easy)

Take the campsite road from the casual car park. Walk along past the campsite. Fifteen minutes’ walk brings you to the Queen’s causeway and the Cascades.

Time: Circular trip 1 hour Distance: 5km

To make a round trip, though the going is steep, a footpath leads to Dooley from the boulders near McKinlay’s pool, joining the tiger Falls/ Gudu Bush path. Return via Tiger Falls/ Gudu Bush (Intermediate)

Time: 1 hour 45 mins Distance: 8km.

Fairy Glen. (Easy to average)

Start down the main road and cross the bridge at the visitor’s center. Then take the path to the left leading through the bush to the Broome Hill stream. Cross and re-cross this, then follow up through the bush to the waterfall. This is a beautiful glen that makes a delightful picnic spot.

Time: 20 min Distance: 1,6km.

Otto’s Walk. (Easy)

The walk starts at the far side of the visitors centre car park. This is a self-guided educational trail that winds along the Mahai and Thuleka Rivers. Many trees are marked for identification.

Time: 45 min. Distance: 3km.

Sunday falls (easy)

Cross the Mahai River below the casual car park. Follow the path up and across the intersection. It is signposted. Continue onto the Surprise Ridge path. At the turning leading down to the falls is a signpost. Cross above the falls and a track will be found leading down to the foot of the falls.

Time: 1 hour Distance: 3km

Forest Walk. (Easy)

This route is well signposted. In the Rugged Glen area a circular walk may be taken along a path from the visitor’s car park up the valley, turning right along the path leading through several attractive bush patches to the Karos Mont-Aux-Sources Hotel. From here the route along the boundary fence, and via the road back to the visitor’s car park, is obvious.

Time: 50 minutes Distance: 4km.

Camel’s Hump

This route is signposted. From the visitor’s car park at Rigged glen, follow the path up and then across the stream, turning left at the first junction, and so on up to the Camel’s Hump, from which magnificent views are to be had.

Time: 1hour 10min Distance: 5km.

Longer walks

Tiger Falls. (Intermediate to difficult)

These falls are situated in an indigenous forest.

From Thendele Camp, Tiger Falls is an easy 30 min walk along the path below Dooley.

Time: 45min Distance: 3km

From the campsite these falls can be reached by continuing on from the cascades walk. The falls are reached at the first large stream and forest patch below Dooley. Return by crossing the Mahai River, turn right when the bush is reached and continue through the forest, back to the campground.

Time for circular walk: 1hour 45min Distance: 7km.

Rugged Glen. (Easy)

To reach this area from the Mahai campground, take the Bergville road as far as the park entrance. Turn left along the Mont-Aux-Sources Hotel road, and left again up the Rugged Glen track to the Visitors car park.

Time: 2 hours Distance: 7km

Hikers can return to the campsite over the Camel’s Hump (see short walks) and Surprise Ridge, where you meet the path to the Cavern.

As an alternative route, turn right and proceed to the Cannibal Caves (1,2km) then return to the campsite via the Surprise Ridge Path.

Time round trip: 7 hours 30min Distance: 23km.

Gudu Falls. (Intermediate to difficult)

From Thendele take the path past Tiger falls to the Gudu Bush. Soon after the stream is crossed a path to the left will lead to the magnificent falls.

From the campsite continue towards the Mudslide and into the Gudu Bush. Turn right at the signpost and follow the steep path above and out of sight of the stream for about 1 600m, when the Gudu Falls will be reached.

Round trip: 3hours 30min Distance: 9km

Dooley Waters and the Mahai Valley. (Intermediate to difficult)

Proceed to the upper end of the Gudu Bush. Continue up the valley on the main bridle path overlooking the Mahai stream for about 2,5 km.

Cross the Mahai stream, a very attractive picnic spot, and continue up the north-facing slope until a path junction is reached.

Turn left up the Dooley Waters path, or alternatively right to continue further up the Mahai valley to Basutu Gate.

NOTE: The Nek and the path from the Nek to the Basutu Gate path are closed. The Dooley Waters path is therefore a cul-de-sac.

Time: 2 hours 30min Distance 7km

The Sentinel

From the car park at the visitors centre, walk via Thendele Camp to Mahai Falls. Finally ascend the Amphitheatre by means of two chain ladders of 100 rungs.

Time: 18hours Distance: 45km

The Gorge

From the car park below Thendele follow the direct and well signposted route. There are community members who will watch your cars.

Time: 5.5 hours Distance: 23km

Rock climbing

Is permitted only to members of the Mountain Club of South Africa (MCSA) and arrangements need to be made in advance.

Horse Riding

Rides odd various lengths from full day to two hours can be organized and are available at Rugged Glen. For safety, children younger than 12 can only go on pony rides and a guardian must accompany children age between 12 and 14.

Bookings must be made in advance. Telephone number: (036) 438 6422.

Stables are open from 08:00-10:00 and 13:00-14:00.

Trout Fishing

Available in rivers and two dams. Only trout fishing equipment is permitted. Permits are available at the Visitors Centre.

Picnics

There is a lovely picnic site at Mahai Dam, but hikers are encouraged to take picnics with them on hikes. Fires may only be made in designated places and refuse should be put in bins.

FACILITIES

The shop is well stocked with curios and supplies.

The nearest town which has a full range of services is Bergville which is 50 kms away

Bookings

KZN Wildlife Reservations

P.O. Box 13069

Cascades

3202

Tel: (033) 845 1000

Fax: (033) 845 1001

Email: bookings@kznwildlife.com

Website: www.kznwildlife.com

Campsites are booked directly through the camp:

Private Bag X1669

Bergville

3350

Tel: 036 438 6303

Fax: 036 438 6231

Office Hours: 08h00-16h30 daily

The End.

Safe Hiking.

References and Acknowledgements

Photos – W Pelser

Compiled by - W Pelser – Information supplied by Ezemvelo KZN Wildlife

Sunday 22 May 2016

The Sani Pass - Drakensberg

Quathlamba

Panorama April 1966

Photos please make contact with the author, Willem Pelser.

“THESE MOUNTAINS OF UP-POINTED SPEARS

HOLD ELAND, ORIBI AND RHEBOK

CAPERING OVER YELLOW ROCK

TO SANDSTONE CAVES THAT FORM A BARRIER….

THE REAL SUNSET STARTS TO FLOW

ACROSS THIS SWEEPING MOUNTAIN RANGE

AND STILL, DESPITE TEN CENTURIES’ CHANGE

HIKING REMAINS A KIND OF HUNT

ELIMINATING FEAR AND CANT”

The Sani Pass

Drakensberg

GARDEN CASTLE

Mokhotlong, situated in the north-eastern section of Lesotho, was one of the most isolated settlements in Africa. Before Moshoeshoe founded the Basotho nation on Thaba Bosiu, Matiwane and his followers had already settled near the present village of Mokhotlong, after fleeing from Shaka’s marauding armies.

Nestling in a rugged, mountainous terrain about 2 255 metres above sea-level, this lonely outpost was virtually unknown to the world. The name was derived from the word Mo-khootlo, which in Sesotho is the name of the Bald-Ibis. Until the end of the Second World War no roads, telephones or postal services were in existence, only a bridle path down the Sani Pass into Natal. The alternative was a long, mountainous journey on horseback to Maseru, the capital of Lesotho. This ride took about a week if the weather permitted. During the winter months the route was often made impassable by blizzards and snow storms. In summer the difficulty in crossing swollen rivers also presented a problem. Basotho farmers transported their wool, mohair and hides on pack animals down the Sani Pass to Himeville in KZN or down the Ntonjelana Pass to a store in the Mnweni Valley in KZN. Some ventured as far as Witzieshoek via the Namahadi Pass to exchange their goods.

In mid-September 1955 David Alexander pioneered the first motor transport service from Himeville in KZN , up the tortuous Sani Pass, across the Sani summit plateau, over the Black Mountains and finally to Mokhotlong. At last north-eastern Lesotho was linked to KZN by road.

To cross the Black Mountains the road follows the Sehonghong River and finally ends in Mokhotlong. This journey from Himeville is about 72, 5 kilometres in all and is the highest road in Southern Africa. In 1958 an enterprising company, realizing the value of the pass as a tourist attraction, built the Sani Pass Hotel. The original road was then improved. A mountaineers’ chalet was built on the top of the Pass and trips was organized up the Sani Pass and into Lesotho. This has proved a popular area for ski-ing during winter months when the snow can be fairly deep.

WINTER MORNING: DRAKENSBERG GARDEN

A new mountain trail, which is now a road, was blazed from Mokhotlong to Buta-Bute. Leaving Mokhotlong and travelling in a north-westerly direction the road crosses the Popa Mountains and runs parallel to the Khubedu River to the Letseng La Terae Diamond Mine. From there it traverses the high Maluti Range and crosses the Malibamatso River near Oxbow and down the Moteng Pass to Buta-Bute.

The Roof of Africa Rally uses this track from Maseru to Sani, which certainly must be one of the toughest courses in the world.

Anyone who has visited the Sani Pass Hotel, or driven along the road from Himeville to Underberg must have seen Hodgsons’ Peaks which lie to the south of the top of the Sani Pass.

The twin peaks derived the name after an incident which took place in 1862, when cattle and horses were stolen from Robert Spier’s farm, Mount Park. A full-scale commando was organized. The force proceeded up the Lotheni and ascended the Hlatimba Pass into the fastnesses of Lesotho. For eight days this party searched for the missing cattle as well as for signs of the Bushman Raiders. Then, after riding in a wide circle, they returned to a point near the edge of the escarpment at the source of the Umzimkulu River which is near the Rhino, Walker and Wilson Peaks in the present day Drakensberg Gardens Hotel area. Suddenly the party saw a mounted Bushman and after a chase a Bushman boy of about 15 years old was wounded and captured.

LOOKING UP THE MASHAI PASS FROM PILLAR CAVE

During the chase Thomas Hodgson was accidentally shot in the thigh by one of his comrades. Four men were left to care for their wounded comrade whose condition became serious. The rest of the party headed for home because their provisions were almost exhausted and help was needed. Robert Speirs, who was one of those chosen to remain with Hodgson, went with the party to the top of the pass to show them the way down before returning to the wounded man. The storm clouds had gathered and a severe thunder storm forced him to spend the night in a rock shelter.

Back at the camp Thomas Hodgson had died and was buried by the three men who had stayed behind to look after him. Once they had buried him, they departed. Next morning Robert Speirs returned to the camp and found Hodgson’s grave surmounted by a pile of rocks. To his horror his comrades had gone and had taken his horse with them.

It was still raining and the mountain was shrouded in mist when he began his long journey home on foot. Wet and cold he walked that day and night until he reached the bottom of the Pass. Then on and on he walked through rough mountainous country, living on birds, grasshoppers, ants and a dassie. He even resorted to eating bulbs and Erica flowers. Eventually he arrived back at Impendhle after 14 days of hard walking.

VIEW FROM THE TOP OF MASHAI PASS

A year later a cairn was built on the site where Hodgson died. Today the twin peaks immortalize Thomas Hodgson and are a grim reminder of the tragedy of 1862.

Leaving Underberg and travelling along the Umzimkulu River towards the Drakensberg Garden Hotel one is transported to a beautiful pastoral region where the cattle graze on the grasslands and the cultivated fields are scattered like patchwork in the grasslands. In the valleys the willows line the rivers. In autumn the view is breath-taking when these willows and the poplars turn to gold against a backdrop of misty blue mountains.

THE RHINO

In this fickle atmosphere the weather is unpredictable. There are days when the peaks are draped with clouds. On other days snake-like mists flow in and out of the valleys while the hilltops look down on the procession. Sometimes the heavens open and the water flowing off the slopes of the mountain looks like mercury as it catches the reflection of the sun’s rays. The most wonderful days of all are those after snow has fallen. Then there is a silence that can only be experienced in the mountains.

From the Drakensberg Garden Hotel there are many delightful walks. The most popular of the walks is to follow the Umzimkulu River, past the Mermaid’s Pool to Pillar Cave and then to ascend the Mashai Pass. From the top of this Pass an easy scramble brings one to the summit of the Rhino.

MASHAI PASS

From the Pillar Cave the Mashai Fangs can be seen to the south-west of the Mashai Pass.

From the Mashai Pass only Walker Peak, Wilson Peak, Umzimouti Peak, Thamathu, Thaba Ngwangwane and the Devil’s Knuckcles can be seen looming over the valleys of the southern KZN Drakensberg.

A truly spectacular Wilderness area. Dust off your boots!!