Tuesday 26 June 2018

Drakensberg - Walking in Monk’s Cowl - The Sphinx and Crystal Falls


Quathlamba
A mass of Spears. Named thus by the Zulu warriors before the white man came. Today called the Drakensberg, Mountains of the Dragon. Evocative names, both equally applicable to South Africa’s mightiest mountain range with its spear-like peaks – reminiscent of the saw-toothed spine of a gigantic dragon.”

 


“Listen to the streams as they gurgle from their cradles and you will hear the story of the mountains. You will hear fascinating tales if only you listen! Lie next to a stream and listen to the song of the mountains. The smiling faces of the flowers, dancing in the wind. Venture into the remote valleys or stand on a peak at sunrise or sunset, after snow has fallen, and you will hear a song that you will never forget - the Song of the High Mountain".



DRAKENSBERG WILDERNESS PHOTOS © WILLEM PELSER








  “In the end, you won't remember the time you spent working in the office or mowing lawn....
Climb that goddamn mountain"
Unknown







Drakensberg  
Walking in Monk’s Cowl
The Sphinx and Crystal Falls



Monk’s Cowl Reserve, in the Central Drakensberg, is very popular with both day walkers and multi-day hikers. It is a vast area with some spectacular scenery. The only limit as to how far you can go depends on your own stamina. The reserve lies close to the N3 highway and is very easy to get to. It is a place well worth a visit. Here follows some walks which can be done in the area.




The Sphinx and Crystal Falls

Route: Monk’s Cowl EKZNW parking area to the first level of the Little Berg.

Distance: 6 km

Duration: Two and a half hours

Grade: Easy

General: What does ‘easy’ mean, exactly, when hiking in the Berg? The fact that this walk is short in distance does not mean it’s a walk in the park. You will sweat, and it will seem a whole lot further than it really is, but that’s mountains for you – they make you work for their pleasures. Once on top of the Sphinx, if the weather plays along, you’ll return home with photos that show you were among true warriors with their up-pointing spears.





   Start off from the car park, heading past the office diagonally to the left, following the Sterkspruit upstream. About 500 m from the office there is a direction sign where you head off to the left. After another 500 m you come to a T-junction where you must head to the right and up some steep zigzagging steps where you should keep strictly to the path to avoid erosion. You might find the local inhabitants selling walking sticks here. This is a heavily used path and so highly susceptible to degradation. Try not to step on the wooden erosion barriers, but over them, as continual tramping destroys them.


  A fence at the top of the zigzags channels people on the right track. There are some kraals above the right-hand side of the path. Here the path heads around to the right as it makes its way onto the lower section of The Sphinx – the obvious headland. Where you cross the second tributary of the Mpofana you’ll find Crystal Falls in a small shady cove; but this a barely 2 km from the start and so hardly even qualifies as a hike. For children, however, this would be good place for a rest before tackling The Sphinx.





  The path first contours right under the large, pitted, head-shapes sandstone band, weathered into interesting shapes and colors. At the top of The Sphinx – completed in a steep 1-km pull up onto the Little Berg – slip off your pack and enjoy the views among the rocks and silver-leafed protea bushes.


  Here the path swings to the right and you reach Breakfast Stream just a short stroll from the top of The Sphinx. If this is as far as you plan to go, then you’ll have plenty of time to walk around and find great angles for photographs, using the proteas or other plants as foreground detail. It is amazing what can be done with a well composed picture in the Little Berg with the contrasting light of the early morning or afternoon when the main peaks are back-lit for some dramatic shots. Return along the same path back to the car park.


We as hikers, explorers and adventurers have the absolute duty to respect and protect our Wildernesses. Nobody else will do it for us. Take ownership!



The End.

Safe Hiking.




References and Acknowledgements

From the book – “Best Walks of the Drakensberg” – David Bristow

Photos:  ©W Pelser

Compiled by:  Willem Pelser






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