Sunday 18 August 2019

THE EXPLORERS- MOUNT EVEREST

DRAKENSBERG
KwaZulu-Natal  South Africa




Mountain of the Dragons

South Africa’s mightiest mountain range with its spear-like peaks – reminiscent of the saw-toothed spine of a gigantic dragon.

Where Adventure beckons..........





DRAKENSBERG WILDERNESS PHOTOS © WILLEM PELSER


NO MATTER HOW GREAT THE ODDS THAT ARE STACKED AGAINST YOU, IT IS POSSIBLE TO ACHIEVE WHAT TO MANY WOULD SEEM IMPOSSIBLE.”
WILLEM PELSER









THE EXPLORERS
MOUNT EVEREST

At 11.30am, on 29 May 1953, a lanky beekeeper from Auckland stepped onto the summit of Mount Everest and into the legend books. Together with the Nepalese Sherpa Tenzing Norgay, Hillary was the first to set foot on the summit of the world’s highest mountain – 29 028 feet above sea level – a feat which had eluded seven major expeditions between 1920 and 1952.





   Recalling the details of the epic climb in 1954, Hillary summarized the excitement and relief of the last moments.


   “I cut my way cautiously up the next few feet, probing ahead with my pick. The snow is solid, firmly packed. We stagger up the final stretch. We are there. Nothing above us, a world below. I feel no great elation at first, just relief and a sense of wonder. Then I turn to Tenzing and shake his hand. Even through the snow glasses, the ice-encrusted mask, the knitted helmet, I can see that happy, flashing smile. He throws his arms around my shoulders, and we thump each other, and there is very little we can say or need to say.”


   Once they have completed the treacherous route down the summit, Hillary’s reaction was more prosaic. “We’ve knocked the bastard off!” he famously told George Lowe, a fellow New Zealander on the expedition. His life would never be the same again. Knighted by the Queen, he became world famous. With Sir John Hunt, the expedition’s leader, he co-authored The Ascent of Everest, an instant bestseller. To this day, all Everest climbers who approach the summit from the south must first negotiate the Hillary step, a forty-foot ice-covered rock step named in his honour.


   It is easy now, more than half a century after that legendary ascent, to forget how much uncertainty then surrounded man’s ability to deal with such extreme altitudes.

“We didn’t know if it was humanly possible to reach the top of Mount Everest, and even using oxygen as we were, if we did get to the top, we weren’t at all sure whether we wouldn’t drop dead or something of that nature.”





   Hillary was born in 1919 and grew up in Auckland. As a child he was something of a dreamer, who did not have many friends. He was a very keen walker and as he walked along the roads and tracks around the countryside area, he would be dreaming. His mind would be miles away and he would be slashing villains with swords and capturing beautiful maidens and doing all sorts of heroic things, just purely in his dreams. He used to love walking for hours and hours and his mind would be far away in all sorts of heroic efforts. At 16, he made his first visit to the mountains and fell in love with the snow and ice. He went on to start climbing seriously, first in his own country, then in the Alps and later still in the Himalayas, where he demonstrated his prowess and suitability for the attempt on Everest by climbing 11 peaks of 20 000 feet or more.


   In 1951-1952, Hillary threw down another marker on two Everest reconnaissance expeditions which brought him to the attention of Colonel John Hunt, leader of the 1953 expedition. A Swiss expedition had turned back 1 000 feet from the summit in 1952 so all knew it was make or break for Hunt’s team. Together, they seized the opportunity.




   For a man whose childhood hero was the British explorer Sir Ernest Shackleton, it was fitting that Hillary should turn from climbing mountains to traversing the Antarctic. Between 1955-1958, he led the New Zealand section of the trans-Antarctic expedition and reached the South Pole by tractor. Though the expedition continued, - in 1977 he led a jet-boat expedition to the mountain source of the River Ganges – increasingly it took second place to improving the welfare of the Nepalese. Above all, he threw himself into providing the Sherpas with airfields, schools, hospitals, and medical clinics. It was his way of thanking them for Tenzing’s help in getting him to the top of the world.


   Personal tragedy intervened in 1975, when his wife and daughter, flying into the hills of Nepal where he was working on a hospital, were killed in a planer crash. It was “an absolute disaster”, he said later. “The two people that meant the most to me in life had been killed in one fell swoop.” Solace was slow to arrive and came only with his marriage to June, a family friend, years later.


   Friends and colleagues describe Hillary as a modest man, never one to brag or boast about his achievements. He described himself as a very mediocre person.




   With full-blown exploration behind him, the scope of Hillary’s interests and activities broadened. He has worked on medical and conservation campaigns and founded the Himalaya Trust. Whatever his protestations to the contrary, the rest of the world will remember him in grand, heroic terms. 


   As the Duke of Edinburgh, patron of the 1953 expedition, said: “In the human terms of physical effort and endurance alone it will live on as a shining example to all mankind.”


   Hillary’s own message to future generations is typically pithy. He is not a man given to extended monologues. He says: “Aim high! There is little virtue in easy victory.”
   

We as hikers, explorers and adventurers have the absolute duty to respect and protect our Wildernesses. Nobody else will do it for us. Take ownership!



We as hikers, explorers, and adventurers have the absolute duty to respect and protect our Wildernesses. Nobody else will do it for us. Take ownership!




The End.


Safe Hiking.



References and Acknowledgements

From the book – Faces of Exploration – Joanna Vestey

Photos:  ©W Pelser

Compiled by:  Willem Pelser




Sunday 4 August 2019

Poisonous Snakes of the Drakensberg Wilderness

DRAKENSBERG
KwaZulu-Natal  South Africa

  

Mountain of the Dragons

South Africa’s mightiest mountain range with its spear-like peaks – reminiscent of the saw-toothed spine of a gigantic dragon.

Where Adventure beckons..........





DRAKENSBERG WILDERNESS PHOTOS © WILLEM PELSER






But forget about the things that grovel on the ground and lift your eyes to the heavens, from whence cometh the most beautiful sights of the mountains – the birds.
UNKNOWN












Poisonous Snakes of the Drakensberg Wilderness


It is wise for people who hike the Drakensberg to become familiar with the types of snakes they are likely to encounter. The usual fear of snakes can be greatly reduced by the ability to distinguish between the dangerous and the harmless varieties. Many snakes are killed purely because they are snakes, even though they perform a vital service to man by reducing the number of rats, mice, slugs and many other pests.


   Whether or not one is likely to encounter snakes while hiking, depends upon the time of the year, time of day, and the weather. During the winter months, particularly after snow has fallen; it is unlikely that snakes will be encountered. It is common knowledge that snakes hibernate during the winter months. However, this does not mean that snakes will not be seen during this time. During certain mild winters, especially on warm winter days, snakes appear and bask in the sunshine, but at this time of year they are sluggish.


   Hikers are more likely to come across snakes in summer, particularly on hot days after a wet spell.


   Most snakes are harmless and will try and get out of the way, but if a poisonous snake happens to be basking in the sun there is a good chance of being bitten if by chance one stands on it. Vibrations are normally picked up by the snake’s ribs, which contact the ground, and are transmitted to the inner ear. In this way it receives the warning and rushes off to safety. People walking barefoot run a greater risk of standing on a snake, than the hiker with his heavy boots which give the warning. Arboreal snakes do not receive the same warning as those living on the ground.


   The early Natal Settlers treated snake bite by scarifying the tissue around the puncture. They then poured gunpowder into the wound and set fire to the powder! Do not try it today!



   The early Basotho believed that a dangerous snake, called “kuane”, lived between the horns of the eland, and a legend still exists in Lesotho of a snake, presumably a Berg adder, which is capable of jumping over a horse!



Puff Adder (Bitis Arietans)





   The puff adder is the most dangerous snake found in the river valleys and grasslands of the Little Berg, but is seldom found higher than 1800-2 000 meters. A mature adult is about 1 meter in length, is fat, and has a flat triangular head. The color varies from yellow to brown on which there are chevron-shaped black cross bands on the back and tail. On top of the head there is a black patch which is separated from another patch on the snout by a narrow pale bar. There is also a black bar behind and in front of the eye.


   Sluggish by nature, it loves to bask in the hot sun, on paths, rocks and small clearings in the grass and also under vegetation. Before striking the puff adder inflates itself and puffs loudly to warn any intruder. Note that the puff adder will not move away! Although it appears to be slow moving, it is amazing how quickly it is able to strike. It usually lunges forward, or even sideways, with mouth wide open and it sinks its very large fangs, which measure up to 25 mm, into the lower leg, then it immediately releases its fangs and prepares for the next strike, seldom holding onto its victim. The bite is extremely painful and is followed by shock, nausea, vision becomes blurred, and balance is also affected. Smell and taste may also be affected. If untreated, unconsciousness and cardiac arrest follow, resulting in death.


   Like other members of the adder family the puff adder is nocturnal – so a word of warning to climbers and hikers returning late at night from a climb or hike!



Berg Adder (Bites Atropes)





   Peculiar to mountainous areas this adder is often seen on walks and climbs and can be found anywhere in the Berg, but is more commonly seen on the High Berg above 1800 meters. About 30-50 cm in length, it has atypical adder head with nostrils directed upwards and outwards.

   The berg adder is slate gray to dark brown but lighter brown varieties are found. On its back there are rows of black triangular or semi-circular patterns edged in a lighter color with the apices of the patterns pointing towards the vertebral midline. Below the base of these triangles is a longitudinal line, light in color, running almost the length of the body.  Below the line is another row of black patterns. On top of the head is a black arrow-shaped mark with the point between the eyes.

   This aggressive adder is often seen on the paths, rocks or at the base of plants and grass. Its first warning is a hissing noise followed by an energetic strike throwing its body forward at the same time. Care should be taken whilst moving through dead wood or alpine heath as berg adders are sometimes found at the base of the plants. A bite on the finger will create a problem at high altitudes.

   The venom is more neurotoxic than haemotoxic and the usual polyvalent anti snakebite serum is contra-indicated. No tourniquet should be applied. The onset of symptoms at high altitude is quicker but the bite from the berg adder is not likely to be fatal if the necessary precautions are taken. If the victim’s condition deteriorates cortisone is recommended.

   The Berg adder lives on rodents and lizards.



Rinkhals (Hemachatus Haemachatus)





   A dangerous poisonous front-fanged snake, commonly found all over the Berg and Lesotho from the river valleys to the summit plateau. It is easy to recognize because as one approaches it rears, cobra fashion, with hood expanded, and is capable of spitting its venom into the eyes of anyone who ventures to near.


   It usually adopts this fierce attitude but is too keen to slip away. Also take note that they sometimes play dead! Do not approach or touch in this instance. During mating season they are particularly aggressive and it is wise to give them a wide berth.


   The Rinkhals is about 90-120 cm in length, and varies in color from black to dark brown, often with irregular cross bands which are also variable in color. The older specimens are usually very dark. When it rears, usually two to three pale bands can be seen on the throat. The fangs of the Rinkhals are fairly short but are highly specialized, enabling it to  eject venom by spitting as well as inject whilst biting.


   The venom is neurotoxic and a bite from the Rinkhals must be treated as a serious emergency. If the Rinkhals happens to spit into the eyes, they should be washed out immediately with water.



Night Adder (Causes Rhombeatus)





   Seldom seen but this does not mean that they are rare in the Berg. The night adder is nocturnal by nature and it is possible that there are many more than estimated. They have tendency to be attracted to damp places where they feed on frogs, rats and mice, which satisfy their healthy appetite. Sometimes they are seen basking on a rock, enjoying the early morning or late afternoon sun, usually in the river valleys.


   The average size is 60 cm and the color varies from dark grey to light or dark brown, or even pinkish brown, with typical dark rhomboidal irregular markings. On the back of the head there is a characteristic dark V pattern, the apex of which is between the eyes.


   Not nearly as poisonous as the puff adder, the bite from the night adder is seldom fatal to humans. The fangs are supplied with unusually long venom gland. Normally the night adder is docile and tends to slither away to safety, but if provoked adopts an aggressive attitude.



There are some simple precautions to take that can help you avoid getting within striking range:
        
        The leader, and especially the person immediately behind him / her, should be constantly on the lookout for snakes during the hot summer months and in early autumn (when they go on a feeding frenzy in preparation for their winter hibernation).  Often the leader will disturb a snake and it may go into a defensive pose ready to strike at any further threat, which is very likely to be the next hiker in the queue!  Beware of small or sudden movements, and large contrasts in color.

        The poisonous snakes mentioned above do not like to be disturbed or interfered with, and will try to give you plenty of warning of this.  An aggravated Puff Adder or Rinkhals will make a loud, drawn-out huffing noise (haaaaaaaaaa), and the Rinkhals will also rear its head and form a flattened hood which can extend a considerable distance down its body.  This noise is usually sufficient to grab anyone's immediate and undivided attention!  Beware of the Rinkhals - it can spit a lot further than it can strike!  The generally smaller Berg Adder will usually make a higher-pitched hissing noise.  Young Berg Adders appear to squeak.

        Except for the fat and sluggish Puff Adder, most snakes will be terrified at your approach and will try to make a quick getaway.  If you are walking in single file, this gives them an almost 360 degree choice of route.  If you are walking in line abreast, this choice is drastically reduced to less than 180 degrees.  The Puff Adder and Berg Adder adopt a defensive coiled posture if they feel they cannot escape in time, while the Rinkhals will rear up and flatten its hood.  The adders can strike at an alarming speed, straightening one or more of their coils in the process and thus extending their reach, then immediately reloading their "spring" for the next strike which might follow almost instantly!  Do not approach a coiled snake!

        The leader can find a walking stick or pole useful in thickly grassed or overgrown areas where he cannot see his own feet.  Poking the stick ahead of him, he can give any snake better warning of his approach and allow more time for them to attempt an escape.

        Avoid walking in dongas (eroded paths) where a snake might be able to strike you at thigh height or even higher.

        Always wear ankle-height hiking boots.  Open sandals provide no protection from snakes whatsoever.  The author prefers to wear full-length snow gaiters as well for various reasons, one of them being better protection from snakes.  Never assume it is safe to walk around barefoot or in sandals outside your cave or tent!

         When scrambling up or down steep slopes, check carefully where you put your hands.  Berg Adders are fond of lying on small rock ledges, and climbers are the most frequent victims of their bites.

         Snakes are most active at night, since this is when their food - consisting mainly of frogs and rodents - is also most active.  In summer, snakes tend to spend the daytime heating themselves in the sun in preparation for their night-time hunting activity, or - if it is very hot - lying up in shade somewhere.  It makes sense, then, that snakes are more likely to be encountered at night, or in the early morning or late afternoon.  Avoid hiking at night!

        Snakes hibernate in winter but they do not go into deep hibernation like mammals.  On a hot winter's day they may leave their burrows to sun themselves, so be especially careful in such conditions.

         Always check the ground in the area where you are about to sit very thoroughly.  Stamp around a bit before you sit - this gives a snake further warning and the flattened grass will make it easier to check the area.  More than one hiker has been struck on the backside by an irritated little Berg Adder, which can easily be mistaken for a twig!

         As terrifying as it sounds, if you get almost to within striking distance of a Puff Adder of Rinkhals, it is best to freeze!  Snakes do not really want to bite you - they prefer to keep their venom for catching food, and you're too big to eat!  These snakes have poor vision and are best at detecting movement.  If you keep still they will usually calm down and move off, although they might still adopt some form of defensive posturing like huffing.  This is exactly how they react when confronted by large animals such as the Eland.

         These snakes might appear aggressive but they will not chase you even if they could!  Given half a chance they prefer to disappear from site within as short a time as possible.  If the snake is at a safe distance, simply stop and make way for it.  Then make a wide berth around the area where you last saw it, and remember to tell the others at the back of the line what area to avoid!

         Never attempt to catch or pick up a snake.  The Rinkhals is usually so reluctant to bite that it may even feign death, but this act will be abandoned if you pick it up!


First aid

    The method for treating snake bite victims has changed considerably over the years.  Indigenous peoples have used the cut and suck method for centuries, apparently quite effectively despite the considerable danger to the person doing the sucking, although it has been suggested that this treatment is largely psychosomatic since there is very little scientific evidence that it may actually work.  The carriage of a snake bite kit containing antivenin was for years considered to be the safest option, but antivenin has a short life-span in warm weather and its effects can be every bit as devastating as the bite itself in people who are allergic to it, especially when improperly administered.  Recent evidence suggests that the longer the use of antivenin is delayed, the more likely there are to be complications, since the body - already trying to deal with the poison - may be overwhelmed by the appearance of yet another invasion.  The use of a tourniquet is considered to be ineffective and potentially aggravating, especially in the case of cytotoxic (cell-destroying) poisons.

    The reason for the changing treatment of snake bite is that the exact mechanism by which poisons spread through the body is not clearly understood, but the latest research seems to suggest that the slow-acting (viz. cytotoxic) poisons are usually distributed through the lymphatic system.  The cytotoxic poison itself is usually quite viscous (i.e. syrupy) and its distribution requires that it be diluted in the tissue fluid.  Whether it spreads through the lymphatic system or the circulatory system, it is obvious that any activity on the part of the victim will assist in its distribution.  While this may be desirable in the case of a virulently cytotoxic poison such as that of the Puff Adder, it merely speeds death in the case of a Mamba bite!

   First Aid courses now teach the use of a pressure bandage, where broad crepes bandage is wrapped around the affected limb to restrict the spread of the poison.  This bandage should not be tied so tightly that it severely restricts the blood supply to the extremities of the limb.  Some snake handlers recommend that a bandage not be used at all if the bite site is very painful, since this is indicative of a cytotoxic poison whose restriction to the area of the bite will assist it in destroying body tissue there! 

   Cytotoxic poisons may also cause rapid and severe local swelling, so unless it is regularly loosened to allow for the swelling, a bandage will eventually cut off the blood supply.  An action that has been part of every treatment, however, is the calming and immobilization of the bite victim.  

   Treatment for snake bite is controversial, but the golden rule is to do nothing – especially if you are not sure what to do, or what specie of snake is involved. If possible one person should go for help. Then treat the patient symptomatically, which means addressing problems, like difficult breathing, loss of sight, or the use of a limb, as they occur. Mainly you should keep the victim breathing and reduce shock as best you can. Keep them warm and hydrated, but never with alcohol. If you do decide to carry anti-venom serum, consider taking antihistamine and cortisone as a general treatment for all types of poisonous bites (to stem the body’s reaction). Only administer a serum if you are certain of the species and you definitely know which serum to use. Giving the wrong serum means the victim gets a double whammy of poison!

 The problem faced by hikers when confronted with a poisonous snake bite is that help is often far away, and a helicopter evacuation may not be possible because of the weather or the time of day.  A cell-phone can prove useful if you are carrying the necessary telephone numbers, but cell-phone coverage in the Drakensberg is very poor due to the mountainous terrain.  It is essential to send someone to call for help, preferably carrying a cell-phone and armed with the telephone number of at least the nearest access point. Positive identification of the snake will help determine the best course of action to take, but do not go out looking for it or attempt to kill it!  If in doubt about the type of snake, rather err on the side of caution and treat the incident as an extreme emergency.

   But forget about the things that grovel on the ground and lift your eyes to the heavens, from whence cometh the most beautiful sights of the mountains – the birds. You are very likely to not ever see a snake. I saw one snake in 3 years of heavy terrain, hiking off footpaths and in total wilderness areas! Enjoy the hike!



We as hikers, explorers, and adventurers have the absolute duty to respect and protect our Wildernesses. Nobody else will do it for us. Take ownership!



The End.


Safe Hiking.




References and Acknowledgements
Snake Photos – “A Cradle of Rivers, the Natal Drakensberg” – David A Dodds
Snake Information - “A Cradle of Rivers, the Natal Drakensberg” – David A Dodds
Best Walks of the Drakensberg – David Bristow
The “Mountain Man” Website