DRAKENSBERG
KwaZulu-Natal
South Africa
Mountain of the Dragons
South Africa’s mightiest
mountain range with its spear-like peaks – reminiscent of the saw-toothed spine
of a gigantic dragon.
Where Adventure
beckons..........
DRAKENSBERG WILDERNESS PHOTOS ©
WILLEM PELSER
“But risk we must, for the greatest risk of
all is to risk nothing at all. he who risks nothing, has nothing, is nothing.”
unknown
Drakensberg
The Bell
Immediately southwest of Cathedral Peak,
forming the next dominant structure on the Cathedral Peak ridge, stands the
petit summit of the Bell. This gem of a peak perches on steep slopes that fall
dramatically away north and south into deep and wild mountainous ravines. From
many angles, whether viewed from the iNtonyelana Valley in the north, the
Mlambonja area to the south, or indeed from above when climbing on any of her
surrounding companions, this symmetrical peak is one of the most aesthetically
beautiful mountains to gaze upon in the entire Drakensberg mountain range.
At only 2 930 metres high, Bell may be likened to
the Arkenstone of the Lonely Mountain. The Arkenstone was the gem that the
dwarves considered the ‘heart of the mountain’ and the treasure the Hobbit
could not resist thieving. With the imposing Outer Horn towering up on one
side, and Cathedral Peak standing guard on the other, it is as if the ‘Dragon’
surrounds Bell as it would a valuable and treasured possession, the jewel of
its haunt.
Although the summits that surround Bell surpasses it
both in height and size, forbidding as they may seem, access to their highest
points present lesser challenges to the mountaineer than their smaller
counterpart. The obstacles that need to be overcome in ascending Bell are not
size and height, but rather line and difficulty.
Bell has two major cliff structures of similar
height, separated roughly by a steeply angled grass slope. The first precipice,
forming the base of the peak is sheer and broad and can be missed by scrambling
up mixed grass and rock from the nek between the peak and Cathedral Peak.
Climbing has subsequently focused on the higher face, which is more fragmented,
with small grass ledges breaking the final obstacles to the summit. Two popular
climbs ascend the southern faces, while a longer and more challenging route
ascends on the northern side.
Climbers Hans and Else Wongtschowski, known as Hans and
Else Wong, were the first to climb Bell in 1944. Early climbers wondered if the
peak was climbable, most saying ‘it is quite out of the question as a climbing
proposition.’ Bell’s seemingly impossible steep slopes were in fact deceptive
when seen from a distance, and in the end the peak proved less of a challenge
than predicted.
Hans Wong had made two earlier attempts on the
peak, in 1942 and 1943, both curtailed by snow and extreme winter conditions.
Changing tactics, he and his wife found the key to Bell when they climbed it in
the summer of 1944, pioneering a route up the southern reaches. They named
their climb the ‘Gladiolus Route’, after the Gladiolus cruenyus flower,
commonly known as the ‘Suicide Lily’, which may sometimes be found on the
mountain’s slopes in the summer months.
Within three months Tony Hooper, Howard Fish, and
Jacky Botha pioneered a second route, to the right of the Wong’s line. The route
has become extremely popular, despite being more difficult than the original
line. The only other established route on the peak ascends the committing north
face and was completed in 1962.
As with so many other peaks and areas in the
Drakensberg, Bell offers a wealth of new and innovative climbing for the stout
mountaineer. In particular an initiative for climbing parties looking to open
and develop new and more challenging lines on the peak must be a direct route
from base to summit, starting on the unclimbed base cliffs and finishing off by
breaking the higher reaches without deviating from a specific line.
Stunning to gaze upon and challenging
to climb, Bell is one of the more revered peaks in the Drakensberg Mountains.
As with Cathedral Peak, Bell
is most commonly approached fro the Cathedral Peak Hotel, on good paths via
Orange Peel Gap and Bugger Gully. Bell Cave (5 persons) is the most popular
starting point, being only a short distance from the nek between Bell and Cathedral
Peak. A good but exposed path traverses below the eastern face and provides
access to the southern extremes of the peak.
To reach the Bell Cave from the top of Bugger
Gully, continue over the top of the gully and down a loose gully on the other side
for about a hundred metres. The path veers off to the right on steep and expose
grass slopes. Drip Cave (6 persons), further down the valley below Bell Cave,
makes for a less practical alternative.
The peak may also be approached from the escarpment
by a long but spectacular traverse of the Cathedral Peak ridge. The traverse
begins at the top of the Mlambonja Pass where the Twins Cave (12 persons)
allows for stop over bivouacs. There is no water on the traverse or at the
cave.
Approach from the iNtonyelana Valley is possible,
although seldom used. Waterfall Cave (12 persons), en route to the iNtonyelana
Pass, is a practical bivouac near to the main gully leading to the nek between
the Horn and the Bell and may make a good alternative base camp for new lines
on the northern and western faces.
We as hikers, explorers,
and adventurers have the absolute duty to respect and protect our Wildernesses.
Nobody else will do it for us. Take ownership!
The End.
Safe Hiking.
References and Acknowledgements
From the book – “Serpent Spires” – Duncan
Souchon
Photos: ©W Pelser
Compiled
by: Willem Pelser
