WALKING SKILLS IN THE WILDERNESS

"TRAILS ARE NOT DUST AND PEBBLES ON A HILL

NOR EVEN GRASS AND WILD BUDS BY A LAKE

TRAILS ARE ADVENTURE AND A HAND TO STILL THE RESTLESS PULSE OF LIFE”

WALKING SKILLS IN THE

WILDERNESS

  

How hard can it be to put one foot in front of another until you get to the top of the hill? And then reverse the process on the way down? Well, that might be the case if we were climbing to the 19^th floor, but in the wilderness country the terrain, the exposure and the altitude can all conspire to make your journey a little more taxing. With a bit of thought though, you can prepare your body and mind to deal with the conditions that you are likely to encounter in the wilderness.

Make efficient ascents

   However fit you are, the speed of your summit bid is dictated by how out of puff you get. Teach yourself to breathe efficiently and your performance on the hill will improve.

Mastering the correct technique then training the right muscles is straightforward, but the results are impressive: a fit athlete trained to breathe efficiently will be capable of breathing a maximum 350 liters of air per minute; the average couch potato mages a maximum level of just 50 to 60 liters per minute. So if you only act on one snip of advice, choose this one: it’ll make walking uphill a whole lot easier.

One

   First, you need to understand how you breathe. Lie on the ground and place one hand flat on your stomach and the other across your chest. Relax and breathe normally. Now, which hand moves most? Most of us find that the chest hand wins the contest. This means that you are contracting and expanding your rib cage muscles to pump air in and out of your lungs. These muscles are just like most other muscles in your body: work them hard and they will get tired.

Two

   Try the exercise again, taking deeper breaths so your chest hand stays still and the hand on your stomach moves up and down. Breathing like this also uses your diaphragm. This muscle is unique: it contains an almost equal level of fast-twitch fibers (for short duration power) and slow-twitch fibers (for endurance). This means it’s more resistant to fatigue: take deep breaths using your diaphragm when you are walking uphill and you can breathe harder for longer. The result? Far fewer rest-stops to catch your breath.

Three

  But we’re not finished yet. Lie down again, relax and think about what takes the most effort: inhaling or exhaling. Average humans among you will report that breathing in requires the most energy. So try this: take a deep breath and concentrate on exhaling instead, emptying all air from your lungs. You’ll find that your body now automatically triggers another breath: go with the flow and let your lungs be filled with air – it requires much less effort.

Four

   Try breathing in through your nose: this warms the air before it hits your lungs, so it’s less likely to trigger an asthma attack. Now breathe out through pursed lips. This creates a level of back pressure, which keep the alveoli open as you exhale, enabling them to continue extracting oxygen for a fraction longer.

Five

   The muscles you use to breathe are just like the others in your body: train them and they’ll get stronger. Now you won’t master this technique overnight – after all, you’ve some pretty ingrained breathing habits to break – but the more that you practice, the more natural it will seem and the stronger those muscles will become. Any exercise requiring you to breathe hard will help your performance in the wilderness.

Stand straight, Walk further

   If your hands are free, keep them that way. On the hill, arms are for balance: and if your posture is correct, they will swing freely at your side and do this job just fine. Holding on to your backpack straps, clasped behind your back and in your pockets are unnatural positions that impede circulation, resulting in swelling or uncomfortable pins and needles. Your arms should be bent at a 90-degree angle when walking, but in practice 50-60 degrees is fine.

   Many boot manufacturers design their soles to reflect the expected foot movement: the Scarpa SL for instance, has a markedly curved sole to role the foot heel-to-toe as you walk; the smoother your step, the less wear on your shins and ankles, so aim to hit the ground with your heel, roll forwards onto the ball of your foot, then push off from there.

Avoid looking at the floor unless you are on dangerous ground. Keep your head up and towards the horizon at its natural angle; allowing the strong vertebrae to absorb impact and bear the weight of your head which, averaging about 8 per cent of your bodyweight is a deceptively hefty burden. If you want proof, relax your neck muscles and gently let your head slump forwards – feel the back of your neck burning? That’s muscle being stretched by the weight of your head.

  ‘Sway-back’ is an unnatural arch in the in the lower back; it’s common when descending, compounded by a heavy pack, and truly agonizing over long distances. Tense your abdominal muscles, pull in your stomach and clench your buttocks – this puts your pelvis into a more ‘neutral’ position and places your back into a strong posture. Apply this technique on the hill and feel the difference.

   The first thing to remember is to stick to shorter, comfortable strides – overstretching can strain your quads, hamstring tendons and calves, and you will feel pulling in the back of the leg and calf if your strides are too long.

   When descending a rocky path, be careful to keep descent steps small so as to not overstretch. Try to position your knee in line with your second toe as you step.

We as hikers, explorers, and adventurers have the absolute duty to respect and protect our Wildernesses. Nobody else will do it for us. Take ownership!

 

 

 

The End.

 

Safe Hiking.

References and Acknowledgements

Photos – W Pelser – Injasuthi Wilderness - Drakensberg

Compiled by - W Pelser – Information – The Ultimate Hiking Skills by A Hinkes & C                            Bagshaw

How to Care for Hiking Boots

 

“YOU START DYING SLOWLY IF YOU DO NOT RISK WHAT IS SAFE FOR THE UNCERTAIN, IF YOU DO NOT GO AFTER A DREAM.”

 UNKNOWN

How to Care for Hiking Boots

Hiking boots are the most important piece of hiking gear on multi-day hiking and day trips and therefore need special attention. Being out in the Wilderness without proper boots in a serviceable condition will lead to untold misery. So, care for them as if they are worth their weight in gold, which they are!

While all footwear eventually wears down, you can increase the chances of your hiking boots lasting longer with proper care, especially higher quality boots. Many hikers outlay a good sum of money for a decent pair of hiking boots, so it makes good sense to prolong their life and to ensure that they remain comfortable, waterproof or resistant, and supporting.

Caring for hiking boots is a circular activity that begins with breaking them in initially, and then requires care both while wearing and after each hike.

Steps

Break in your new hiking boots. When you first purchase a pair of hiking boots, wear them around the house and for short local walks initially, to help break them in. Hopefully you wore your usual hiking socks when purchasing, so be sure to wear these when breaking them in too. Your hiking expedition will be a lot more enjoyable if the new boots already have some give and slight wear to them; otherwise, you may discover that you're focused solely on how much they're hurting you instead of enjoying the hike!

o    If you can't break in your boots on local walks, only attempt a leisurely hike at first.

Before heading out for your hiking trip, do an once-over of your hiking boots to check that they're in top condition. A lot of problems with hiking boots can be warded off at the start, including breaking them in, waterproofing them, and checking that the boot is not in need of any repairs.

o    If they need waterproofing, do so before leaving home. It's much easier in the comfort of your home than trying to fiddle with this process out in the wilds. The type of waterproofing agent you should use will depend on the make and material of your hiking boot; it's recommended that you ask at your retailer for advice on the correct product or read the instructions from the manufacturer either online or in any literature accompanying the boots. Usually the waterproofing product will be oil-based for leather boots and silicone-based for fabric based boots. Follow the instructions on the product for waterproofing.

o    Check the shoelaces. Are they in good condition or is one or both of them close to breaking from wear? Are the eyelets (aglets) in good shape? If it's time to change the shoelaces, do so, as it won't be enjoyable to break a lace while you're out hiking.

o    Check for loose eyelets or D-rings, any cracks in the leather or other material, loose soles, loose inner soles, dirt, seeds, and other debris inside the shoes, and loose stitching anywhere. Attend to anything you see that might break, loosen, or cease to work when out hiking – better now than in the middle of a rainstorm in deep mud!

Be prepared to clean your boots regularly during the hiking trip. The type of cleaning that you'll be able to do while out hiking won't be anywhere as thorough as the clean post-hike, but it does help to perform some basic cleaning tasks that help care for your hiking boots as you're on the go:

o    Remove the debris from your boots after the day's hike has ended and you're at camp or your cabin. Simply tip the boots upside down over an area away from the tent or cabin and bang them to loosen any dirt, seeds, and other debris that has accumulated in them during the day's hike.

o    Tap the pair of boots together firmly to remove loose dirt from the outside of the boots.

o    Using a stick, pocket knife, or other sharp instrument, dig the mud out of the soles of the boots, one at a time.

o    Allow wet boots time to dry overnight. If you can, stuff newspaper or a warm cloth inside them to help them keep their shape. Leave them at the door of your tent or cabin or hang them up outside if there is no likelihood of rain overnight. Don't dry leather boots in the direct sunlight, in front of a heater or before the campfire because the heat will crack them.

o    If hiking in a humid environment, take several changes of socks and rotate these during the day to remove the wet socks and add dry ones. Doing this should help to reduce the wetness of your boots. Overnight, be sure to hang the socks up to dry – do not stuff them into your boots!

o    If winter hiking, don't leave your boots out of the tent or they can freeze and crack. Place them inside a sleeping bag or use them as a headrest.

o    Repeat these daily cleaning tasks for the duration of your hiking trip. And before putting your boots on every morning, shake them upside down to remove biting or other visitors.

Clean the boots upon your return from the hiking trip. This clean will be a thorough clean, the one you do prior to storage.

o    Remove all mud and dirt from the boots. As explained above, tip them upside down and shake them, then bang them together firmly to release all loose dirt and mud. Then use a stick or sharp tool to dig dirt out of the soles of the boots. Use a hard-bristled brush to remove remaining mud and dirt that has been caked on.

o    Wipe the inside of the boot to remove salt from perspiration. Use warm water to wash off salt and perspiration stains.

o    Wash the hiking boots in water to remove all traces of mud and dirt; you can use a rag to wipe over the boots. Or, use a proprietary cleaner recommended by the manufacturer – always be sure to read the manufacturer's warnings about what you can and cannot use to clean the boots with.

o    Allow to dry away from heat or direct sunlight sources.

o    Waterproof the boots. This job is best done after cleaning rather than waiting until your next hiking trip. As explained earlier, the waterproofing method you use will depend on the make and material of the boot. Oil-based waterproofers usually require two to three applications by hand, while silicone-based products can often be sprayed, rubbed, or wiped on using a tool that comes with the product. Always follow the manufacturer's instructions concerning application and drying times.

Check the overall condition of the boots. Before putting the boots away, check the same basics that you checked before taking the boots hiking. In particular, replace fraying laces, loose eyelets or D-rings, and worn inner soles. At the very least, put replacement items down on your "must-buys" for the next visit to the hiking boot retailer so that you'll have the items before your next hike.

Use a leather conditioner regularly to stop leather hiking boots from drying out. Some waterproofers may have conditioners in them but don't assume that they all do. Pay particular attention to creases in the leather as these can crack when dry.

Store your hiking boots. Since hiking boots don't tend to be used all year around by most people, find a suitable storage place that is out of the way but still easily accessible when needed. Avoid humid storage or you may have problems with mildew growth. A shoe tree is the best means for storing them long-term.

o    Do not store hiking boots in plastic bags; this prevents them from breathing.

Tips

·         When buying new hiking boots, bear in mind that your feet will swell when hiking. However, don't get them too large as any movement during hiking will end up in causing pain through lack of support and friction.

·         If the boot is starting to separate from the sole, use rubber glue, not super glue (super glue will shatter) to glue them back together.

·         It's always advisable to carry spare shoelaces when hiking.

·         Always knock your shoes upside down before putting them on. Animals like spiders and scorpions love to hide out in boots.

·         If unsure as to what products to use on your boots, check with the boot manufacturer or the retailer.

·         After applying a waterproofer, use a hair dryer on very low heat to melt the wax and help it sink in. Be sure to wipe excess off after doing this and see "Warnings" concerning this method.

Warnings

·         Do not use mink oil to treat boots. It will over soften the leather and the boot will lose its support.

·         Don't ever apply an outside heat source, like a hair dryer or a room heater, to your boots for a prolonged period of time. The leather can warp. To accelerate drying stuff the boots with dry paper and let it absorb the moisture.

·         Do not over-oil or over-wax hiking boots; doing so will cause the leather to begin decomposing. Too much oil will also prevent boots from retaining heat.

Things You'll Need

·         Suitable waterproofer & conditioner.

·         Warm water and soap.

·         Stick or pocket knife.

·         Bristle brush.

·         Shoe tree.

We as hikers, explorers, and adventurers have the absolute duty to respect and protect our Wildernesses. Nobody else will do it for us. Take ownership!

 

 

 

The End.

 

Safe Hiking.

References and Acknowledgements

From the book – None

Photos:  ©Willem Pelser

Compiled by:  Willem Pelser