Saturday, 28 December 2024

Garden Castle Reserve Drakensberg

 FOR SOMETHING TO BE ADVENTUROUS IT HAS TO BE UNPREDICTABLE.”

UNKNOWN







Garden
Castle Reserve

Drakensberg




How often is it that we dream of adventure and exploration in this modern age? To get lost in a wilderness area and experience a life far removed from the human rat race. Garden Castle Reserve in the southern Drakensberg is indeed a place where dreams of adventure can come true. It is a vast and exceptionally beautiful wilderness area, made for long range hiking. There is so much to see and experience that a normal day walk would simply not do.





You need to pack your hiking bag for a number of days and venture forth into the wild wilderness, exploring and finding all the hidden gems awaiting you in this area. Garden Castle richly rewards those making the effort to explore the wilderness. It is a place which draws you ever deeper into her arms and there are truly some magnificent sights to behold.

Travel to the town of Underberg, go straight through and a few kilometers outside of town turn right onto the Garden Castle road. The roads are well signposted and also tarred all the way to the camp. Any vehicle will do. After about 32 kilometers you will arrive at the gate of the Drakensberg Gardens Hotel. Sign in at the gate and proceed through the hotel grounds to the Garden Castle Reserve office.



Accommodation outside of the reserve is plentiful and you will be spoilt for choice. Staying at the Garden Castle Hotel gives you close access to the reserve wilderness trails. There is a very nice and clean campsite available in the reserve itself with more than reasonable rates and immediate access to the trails. The campsite also boasts superb views and on most days you will have the place to yourself. Fuel is available right outside the hotel gates and the hotel operates a superette on their premises should you have the need to stock up on supplies.

There is a car park available at the office for the cars of the day walkers or those going on multi-day hikes. A picnic site is also available.



Garden Castle Reserve is one of the most beautiful areas in all of the Drakensberg and well worth a visit.

Most people tend to stay at the Drakensberg Gardens Hotel and do their walks from there. Mashai Pass and the Rhino Peak Route is a crowd favorite and on most days people will be trekking up the pass. The route can become quite busy, which, for a hardcore hiker like myself, distracts from the experience. The other routes available to the walker and which can be completed in a day seems to be discarded in favor of Mashai Pass, which is a pity as these routes are exceptionally beautiful. The area is an absolute paradise for the multi-day hiker and explorer and allows a person to travel wide and far. How far you can walk is the only limit. I have recently spent a fabulous 7 days in the area and it was absolutely magical.




There are various river pools available for swimming and currently the flowers in the area are a sight to behold.

For the day hiker there are 6 main trails available, all of them spectacular:
1) Mashai Pass and Rhino Peak.
2) Sleeping Beauty Cave.
3) Hidden Valley.
4) Bushman’s Neck.
5) Lake Naverone.
6) Bushman Rock, Three Pools, and Champagne Pool.



Maps are available from the reserve office and please take note that you are not allowed to visit any cave with Bushmen Rock Art without a guide, which can be arranged at the office.

For the multi-day hiker your imagination is the only limit as to where and how far you can go. However, when you do go, be properly prepared, and have your hike well planned as the Drakensberg is a very unforgiving place for those ill-prepared and can become a very hostile place very quickly.




Hiking in the Drakensberg is about the freedom of a wilderness experience, not about ‘how much’ or ‘how far’. Just go out there and enjoy the mountains like a bushman. Then you will discover why the Drakensberg is a Cathedral of the senses.

We as hikers, explorers, and
adventurers have the absolute duty to respect and protect our Wildernesses.
Nobody else will do it for us. Take ownership!




The End.


Safe Hiking.





References and Acknowledgements

From the book: My Notebook

Photos:  ©Willem Pelser

Compiled by:  Willem Pelser



Saturday, 14 December 2024

GIANT’S CASTLE

 “THE VIEW WAS OF A

TRIANGULAR PEAK, SOME TWO THOUSAND FEET ABOVE US, STANDING IN A CLOUDLESS SKY”

CALIBAN. ON SIGHTING GIANT’S CASTLE, 1912



GIANT’S CASTLE






   On a clear day you can see, from a hilltop in Mooi River (a small farming town in the shadow of the Drakensberg), the Giant’s Castle massif dominating the skyline some seventy kilometers to the west. The image resembles a huge figure lying on its back, staring into the sky, peaceful, silent and contemplative. The Castle itself, which forms the Giant’s head, has three high points, the middle or ‘nose’ being the main summit. This point rises to 3 314 meters, unusually high for a peak set away from the main escarpment wall.

   Known to the Zulu people as Bhulihawu, ‘the place of the field thrasher’, or Phosihawu, meaning ‘the shield finger’, the peak is the largest example of a singular mass in the Drakensberg, extending away from the range in an easterly direction for more than three kilometers. The more superstitious called it Ntabayikonjwa, ‘the mountain to which you must not point’, for fear it will retaliate with bouts of violent weather. Owing to its size, the peak’s ability to manipulate the forces of nature on occasion is quite feasible.





When looking up from in its immediate valleys, Giant’s Castle’s main summit takes on a spectacular pyramidal shape, with two sweeping ridges descending to the southeast and north, like great arms embracing the valley below. Many of the earlier climbing routes are found in this area, and a beautifully placed mountain hut waits in the valley, providing a good base from which to start most of the Castle’s technical climbs.






THE PLACE OF VULTURES
   Around to the right of this valley extends the mighty north wall. In 1997, one of the most ambitious Drakensberg routes was completed on this enormous precipice. The climb, following an extremely thin weakness, boasts some of the finest and most committing climbing in the Drakensberg range to date, testament to the high level of mountaineering that can be achieved in the area. The route was named after the Bearded Vultures, or Lammergeier (meaning ‘lamb grabber’), that grace the peak’s surrounding skies.




   As early as 1941 the peak had been considered as a mountaineering objective, when a climber pioneered a route up the treacherous looking Eastern Gully.

   Despite this early interest, face-climbing proper only began when climbers completed what is now considered a classic line up the north face in 1950. The opening of Schole’s Route fired a new interest in the peak as a mountaineering and climbing sanctuary. The establishment of a second route on the north wall in 1971, veering right from the start of Schole’s Route, reasserted the peak’s importance as one of the range’s most challenging mountaineering summits. With routes like Lammergeier and more recently the Land Der Gesetzlosen (‘Land of the Lawless’), the Giant’s north wall is fast becoming a big-wall test piece for southern African climbers.





   On the southern slopes, winter mountaineering and ice-climbing developments add a new dimension of challenge on the Giant, offering an aspect of the sport that is often difficult to practice in Africa owing to the warm climate.





   The Giant, with its shear faces, particularly its north wall, holds numerous future climbing prospects. The peak is likely to be a focal point in African climbing in the 21st century.





Giant’s Castle is a place of dreams, of staring at the stars by night and the blue skies with white cotton-wool clouds by day.



IT IS A PLACE UNTOUCHABLE BY MAN. IT IS A RESTING PLACE OF GIANTS.






1 – Frontal Route – First Climbed 1955

2 – Schole’s Route – First climbed 1950

3 – Colli Extendenticum – First climbed 1971

4 – South East Ridge – First Climbed 1954

5 – Lammergeier – First Climbed 1997

6 – Land Der Gesetzlosen – First Climbed 1998




We as hikers, explorers, and
adventurers have the absolute duty to respect and protect our Wildernesses.
Nobody else will do it for us. Take ownership!


The End.

Safe Hiking.

















Acknowledgements

Extract from the book – Serpent Spires – Duncan Souchon

Photos – Willem Pelser, The Mountain Man.



Saturday, 16 November 2024

WILDLIFE OF THE DRAKENSBERG - THE STORY OF THE ELAND

 “THEY SHALL DWELL SAFELY IN

THE WILDERNESS AND SLEEP

IN THE WOODS,

AND NONE SHALL MAKE

THEM AFRAID”

BOOK OF THE PROPHET EZEKIEL



WILDLIFE OF THE DRAKENSBERG



THE STORY OF THE ELAND


Eland, Lotheni Reserve


   There are literally hundreds of species of wild flowers, trees and ferns in the Drakensberg. The birdlife is fantastic and on these rolling hills roam eland, Oribi, mountain reedbuck and grey rhebok, and on the high ledges of the mountains the shy little klipspringer browses.

   When the Giant’s Castle Reserve was first proclaimed in 1903, its main objective was to provide a sanctuary for the fast disappearing eland, one of the noblest, and certainly the largest, of South Africa’s antelopes. At one time it was the commonest antelope in the Drakensberg. We know this from accounts of early hunters and also from the Bushman paintings that adorn the cave walls in the sandstone cliffs of the Little Berg, where the eland is the commonest animal depicted. But by the turn of the century the herds that roamed these mountain solitudes in peace and security were gone and the numbers were down to a meager 200 individuals. It was considered that in 1900 there were only 20 left in the area of the present reserve.



Baboon foraging


   The eland, Taurotragus oryx, (the Zulu name is Impofu), is 150 cm to 180 cm in height, about the size of a large ox, and a weight in the Drakensberg of up to 452 kg. This is considerably less than the weight - up to 820 kg – of eland found in other parts of Africa. He is buff colored, turning to grey as he grows older. He has a very distinct black vertical stripe from his horns to the root of his tail, and long, hanging dewlaps. Both sexes have fairly long, spiraled horns. The eland is both a grazer and a browser, and is particular to Buddleia salvifolia and Halleria lucida. In his wild state he is nervous and wary. If a herd of eland spots you – they have excellent eyesight – they will stand still for a few moments and then make off at a brisk trot, either up a slope or round the shoulder of a hill, seldom downhill. Their call is a low, barking note. Although a large animal, the eland is not aggressive. In spite of their great size they are excellent jumpers, and will easily clear a two-meter fence.


Eland herd at Lotheni Reserve


   The Drakensberg eland are of especial importance, because they are directly descended from the original eland of that particular district. In the Sudan there is a giant species Taurotragus derbianus gigas, which can weigh up to 1000 kg.

   Todayin Kzn, they occur from Giant’s Castle south to Cobham. Under former natural conditions it is almost certain that they used to winter in the Thornveld, spending only their summer in the Drakensberg, but owning to increased hunting and the opening up of the Midlands of Natal to early settlers, they sought permanent refuge in the Drakensberg.


Lotheni Reserve


   They are, however, great wanderers, and the Natal Parks Board at one stage erected a strong 220 cm 10-strand eland fence around the Reserve. With their great jumping ability it did little to restrict the movement of the eland, however, and when the fence fell into disrepair it was not replaced.

   In 1958 two eland were killed in the Upper uThukela Location, between Cathedral Peak and the Royal Natal National Park. They were probably following their old instinct of migrating to the Thornveld. The concentration of eland in the Drakensberg throughout the year does not cause problems of overstocking or overgrazing because of the high calf mortality. This is as high as 60 percent, and is due to the poor nutrition of young animals in the harsh mountain environment.

  The eland is generally a docile animal. Even bulls in captivity rarely become vicious, although one should remain cautious and vigilant near any ”wild” animal.


Eland Family with calf - Lotheni


   Eland meat is tender and most palatable. As far back as 1848 it was proposed that the eland should be domesticated.

   Actually there have been several attempts at domesticating the eland. A notable one was made at Askanya Nova, in southern Russia, in 1895, where a good deal of useful information was collected. In 1954 a small herd was established at Zezani, in the heart of Zimbabwe Mopane country. It was soon found that the eland would flourish in an area quite unsuitable to cattle, and the opinion was formed that eland meat was equal, if not superior, to beef.

   Here in the Drakensberg the first attempts to domesticate the eland were made as far back as 1907. A number of calves were caught and sent to Cedera. Nothing came from this attempt, but a year or so later calves were supplied to several farmers in the Natal Midlands, notably to Andrew Sclanders and the Moe brothers at New Hanover. The Moe’s were the most successful in achieving results, and one of the brothers actually rode an eland round the show ring at an agricultural show! 



Thendele – Royal Natal National Park


   A most ambitious experiment was carried out by the Natal Parks Board at Lotheni, on the southern slopes of Giant’s Castle. Here an eland domestication unit was established some years ago and the eland was studied. The herd reached about 40 head, and valuable information was obtained concerning the growth and handling of the domesticated animal.

   It has already been proved that the eland can be domesticated, that the meat is excellent, and that eland farming can be carried on successfully in areas to dry for conventional cattle farming. The Russian experiment showed that small, selected herds soon deteriorated through inbreeding, and the present small numbers of eland preclude the possibility of larger domesticated herds. However, the eland has not caught the attention of the rancher, who still finds it easier to raise cattle.

   Todayin the Giant’s Castle Game Reserve, and in the area south of Giant’s Castle, the eland is flourishing. From being on the danger list, numbers have now increased to a figure which makes the future of the eland assured. (Poaching however, have increased, and due to the vastness of the area and lack of rangers, goes on unabated and without fear of prosecution – Willem Pelser.)



Mid-winter, Lotheni Reserve


   There is no doubt that KZN Wildlife, has done magnificent work, not only in the establishment and running of its game reserves (there are more than 40 game and nature reserves in KZN) but in control of wildlife generally, and in restocking the reserves with species that had died out.

   But there are significant dangers ahead. There are some who hold that prior to the European settlement of the country, the game was largely migratory in character. Animals rarely wintered in the Drakensberg, preferring the sweeter grass and warmer valleys of the Thornveld. The inferior size of the Drakensberg eland underlines this. Today, with our fences, our railroads and highways, our ploughed lands, our developing towns and cities, migration is impossible, and the game is confined to one area all the year round. This leads to damage through overgrazing. Once man interferes in any way whatever with the delicate balance of nature, the result is dangerous. Chain reactions set in, with incalculable results. Damage due to overgrazing could lead inevitably to eventual paddocking and artificial feeding, and the game reserve would be reduced in status to that of a glorified zoo. If this happens it will have been I direct consequence of the tourist’s desire to see game, for the species being introduced are in little danger of dying out. In other words, it is apparently the profit motive which is dominant, and the results would be that fauna would be protected at the expense of flora.



Lotheni Reserve



   This clash of interest between the demands of the tourist industry and the demands of the nature conservationists is ever- present one. When our game reserves were first proclaimed they were designed purely for the protection and conservation of game. It was only later that tourists started clamoring to see game. In America this tendency has reached alarming proportions. The Yosemite National Park in California is visited by thousands of tourists a day, whose noise practically drowns out even the thunder of the Yosemite Falls! The Kruger National Park, with its huge camps, its stores and restaurants, its tarred roads and its filling stations, is in danger of going the same way. So far, in KwaZulu-Natal this pressure has been largely resisted. There should be no roads in the reserves, apart from the access road. There has been some moderate expansion and modernization of hutted camp facilities but it has generally been sympathetic to the environment. Man should be prepared to go out on the two legs God gave him, carrying his food on his back, and glad to make the effort needed to enjoy what nature has to offer.

   Should we make a distinction between reserves and recreational areas? Nature Reserves, certainly, should be primarily for wildlife and environmental conservation. They can be used for outdoor recreation within reason, but they should be kept primarily for the genuine lover of nature. Fortunately, the Parks authority makes this distinction, but our Drakensberg hotel resorts are losing their original purpose. These resorts have been invaded by a motley crowd who wanted little more than their bowls, their tennis and their golf, their cards and their sundowners. They rarely lift their eyes to the mountains, they rarely venture into them, and never once do they feel their hearts stir with wonder and delight at the wilderness around them. Tennis and bowls and golf are first class and worthwhile recreations, but our Drakensberg hotels, originally at least, were designed mainly for lovers of nature, hikers and mountaineers.


Herd at Lotheni Reserve


   In his annual report for 1967/1968 Dr. D. Hey, former director of Nature Conservation for the Cape, said: ‘It is most important to reduce the public pressure on nature reserves and national parks by providing recreational facilities elsewhere for those who are not particularly interested in wildlife, but merely wish to relax out-of-doors. It is quite possible for a nature reserve to be destroyed by an excessive number of visitors.” He could not have put it more clearly. Let us at least keep our Drakensberg Reserves inviolable from this sort of thing.

   Man has got to do a lot of rethinking if he is to survive. In the past he has adopted the arrogant assumption that he is apart from the animal kingdom, sole owner of the world in which he lives, that he is Lord of Creation and can do what he likes with his environment. Since 1600 the world has lost 101 species of birds and 46 mammalian species, 44 of the former and 27 of the latter within the last 50 years. And year after year he spews out, at an increasing rate, his polluting gases into the atmosphere and his filth into the oceans.


Antelope at Thendele, Royal Natal National Park


   Man is not a distinct entity. He is and inseparable part of the whole of nature, and you, and I, and all the creatures of the wild, are fellow travelers, with a common goal, a common destiny, and a common fate on a small and very vulnerable planet travelling through the depths of space.


We as
hikers, explorers, and adventurers have the absolute duty to respect and
protect our Wildernesses. Nobody else will do it for us. Take ownership!



 



 



The End.



 



Safe Hiking.