HIKING TRAIL HINTS

 “THOU WEAR’ST UPON THY FOREHEAD

THE FREEDOM OF A HIKER IN THE WILDERNESS”

HIKING TRAIL HINTS

COBHAM DRAKENSBERG

Safety is of the utmost importance and disregard for a few commonsense rules can turn a trail into a tragedy. In most cases where fatalities or serious injuries have occurred in the Wilderness they could have been avoided.

Bear the following in mind – they will not only ensure pleasant hiking, but could also save lives.

   The party should always be led by the most experienced person.

   Plan each day carefully. Start off as early as possible if you have a long day ahead of you, if the terrain is difficult or unfamiliar to you or in hot weather.

   Keep in mind that there is considerably less daylight in winter than in summer.

   Large parts of Southern Africa receive rain in the summer and thunderstorms are common in the afternoon. Try to reach your destination before the rain sets in.

COBHAM DRAKENSBERG

   Hike at a steady pace. Three kilometers an hour is a good average. For every 300 meter you gain in altitude an hour can be added. On steeper sections it is advisable to shorten your stride slightly, while maintaining your hiking rhythm. Avoid frequent breaks – rather have short rest stops and use the opportunity to appreciate your surroundings.

   Keep the party together. A member lagging behind is an almost sure sign of trouble, exhaustion or exposure. Establish the cause of the problem, assist the person by spreading the weight of his/her backpack and keep him/her company. In large groups it is advisable to appoint someone to bring up the rear. If you do this you will always know who the last person is.

   Keep your energy levels up by eating snacks – peanuts and raisons, glucose sweets, chocolate and dried fruit – between meals.

COBHAM DRAKENSBERG

   If you encounter bad weather, or if the route proves too demanding physically, do not hesitate to turn back if you have not reach the halfway mark of the day’s hike by midday.

   Misty conditions occur frequently in the mountains at high altitudes. If mist sets in seek a suitable shelter and stay put until it has cleared.

   Be aware of the dangers of flash floods. Never cross a flooding river. Fortunately most South African rivers soon return to their normal flow after flooding. Either wait until the flood has subsided or make a detour.

   Some routes necessitate frequent river crossings. At times it might be possible to boulder hop across, but avoid long jumps with a heavy pack which could result in a slip, and not only a soaking, but also injury.

COBHAM DRAKENSBERG

   If you are uncertain about a river’s depth, always probe it without your pack. If the river is shallow undo the hip belt of your backpack and loosen shoulder straps for quick unloading.

   Float packs across deeper rivers.

   Avoid crossing rivers near the mouth unless there is a definite sandbar. These rivers are more likely to be shallow and slower where they are wide. Steer clear of bends, where the water is usually deeper and the flow stronger.

COBHAM DRAKENSBERG

   Avoid the dangers of lightning by staying clear of prominent features such as trees ridges, summits, shallow caves and large boulders. Find an open slope; sit on a groundpad or a backpack, preferably on a clean, dry rock, with your knees drawn up, feet together and hands in your lap. If you are in your tent during an electric storm, sit in a crouching position and avoid touching the sides.

COBHAM DRAKENSBERG

   Always carry two water bottles. Remember that smaller streams are often dry during the winter months in summer rainfall areas and dry during summer months in winter rainfall areas. Unless ample water is available along the route it is advisable to ensure that you always keep a reserve supply of water.

   Water-bottles should always be filled from safe, fast-running streams above human habitation. Water below human habitation should be regarded as unsafe and should not be drunk before it has been boiled.

   Water suspected of being infested by bilharzia, cholera or other waterborne diseases should be boiled for at least 5 minutes. This method is preferable to using commercially available chemicals. Strain water through a handkerchief to remove debris before boiling it.

COBHAM DRAKENSBERG

   In the event of a veld fire, try to find shelter in a kloof or ravine rather than going up a slope. Avoid waterfalls and take care to minimize unnecessary risks.

   Always carry a whistle. It can be used to attract attention should you get lost. Remember the international SOS – three short, three long and three short whistles.

We as hikers, explorers, and adventurers have the absolute duty to respect and protect our Wildernesses. Nobody else will do it for us. Take ownership!

The End.

 

Safe Hiking.

 

       

    

Acknowledgements

Extract from the book - Hiking Trails of Southern Africa – W&S Swanepoel

Photos – Willem Pelser, The Mountain Man.

HIKING THE WILDERNESS - CARING FOR YOUR KNEES AND FEET

"I’VE LET MADNESS POUR
OUT OF MY SOUL TO SWIRL AMONGST THE VASTNESS OF THE WILDERNESS”

UNKNOWN

HIKING THE WILDERNESS

CARING FOR YOUR KNEES AND FEET

At the end of April 2018 it was time again to get lost inside the glorious Drakensberg Wilderness. A 5 day hike was planned and started at Monks Cowl Camp, wandering through to the Injasuthi area, and then back to Monks Cowl on a different route. As words are sometimes insufficient to describe the timeless beauty of this wilderness, join me on this photographic journey.

   The human knee is a troublesome thing, aching, breaking, and creaking at the slightest provocation. So where are we going wrong?

   Walkers don’t often see themselves as sportspeople, but if you are going for an eight-hour walk, you are putting as much stress as someone who plays squash or going running a couple of times a week. Women are more prone to bio-mechanical injuries because their wider hips give them a shifting centre of gravity.

   When people first experience knee pain, often they accept it or try to manage it. When it becomes a problem, you might buy a pair of trekking poles. These do work, but only to a limited degree. You can help the symptoms improve, but the underlying cause is still there.

The most common knee injuries

   Walkers often complain of knee pain on descents, pain in the inside knee or behind the knee-cap, and pain in the outside knee.

The causes

    Everyone has a distinctive gait which becomes more exaggerated as we get older. Very few people have perfect gait, with the body’s weight aligned perfectly through the feet, ankles, knees, and hips. Most people have a slight bio-mechanical imbalance, which your body will compensate for – from the feet upwards – in an attempt to bring the centre of balance back in over the feet. It could be a roll of the foot, a flick of the ankle, or an outward or inward movement of the knee. However, in some people, there is excessive movement, and it concentrates pressure on a part of the joint that can’t carry that kind of load. If your knees hurt, you have to stop the movement and encourage the body to adopt a more neutral position. You can do that with off-the-peg or custom-made orthotics.

   Even if it’s the jarring of a steep down-hill that brings on the symptoms of pain or discomfort, it’s only an aggravating factor, not the cause. Most knee injuries relate to excessive movement in the joint, rather than shock transferred through the limb. Cushioning or shock-absorbing insoles can add another kind of movement.

   However, orthotics – EVA sport insoles personalized to cradle and lift the foot – fit inside the boot and hold the foot in a more neutral position to control excessive movement. This reduces stress on the joints and soft tissues in the legs and lower back. You can buy off-the-peg orthotics or have them fitted by a qualified podiatrist.

   Knee injuries caused by a twist, tear or knock will usually repair with a few weeks of rehab and rest. If, however, your injury ‘just happened’; if the pain worsens with activity, but clears up when you lay off, then you may have a bio-mechanical problem. This won’t just go; it will need specialist attention if you want to stay active. Ask your doctor for advice, or make an appointment with a podiatrist.

Coping with age

   It’s not inevitable that you’ll have aches and pains as you get older. Problems appear because as the body ages, the degree of discrepancy in skeletal misalignment increases: the collagen which makes up tendons and ligaments becomes less resilient, so things are more like to snap rather than spring back into place. People start to have problems such as fallen arches, which become set in position. It sounds depressing, but the good news is that this process is not irreversible. Over time the orthotic encourages the ligaments and tendons to stretch back, allowing the foot to adopt a more relaxed neutral position when non-weight bearing, and to be less gnarly. Hiking is one of the best ways to stay active in later life, but as you get older you can’t take your body for granted.

Make your knees last a lifetime

   There are three things you can do to ensure your knees are still in good order when you are hiking the wilderness in your dotage.

   First, every time you go out, take it steady for the first five minutes of your walk, and don’t burn up the first hill you come to. This will dramatically reduce your chances of sustaining a knee injury.

   Second, get into the habit of stretching your hamstring, Achilles, and quads afterwards. This stop the leg muscles from contracting and shortening after exercise.

   Third, if you go to a gym, build some knee-strengthening exercises – leg extensions and squats – into your work—out. Speak to your gym about this as it’s important to build balanced muscle groups that work together, so as not to pull the limb out of alignment. Some osteopaths also recommend glucosamine sulphate supplements. This promotes cartilage repair and make joints more resilient.

Blister advice

   The old wives’ tale says to rub surgical spirits or perfume into your feet to harden up the skin. This works, but large blisters can form between the hard layer and the soft skin beneath. So what can you do to prevent them? Try these if you are prone to blisters, or wearing in a new pair of boots.

   Wear a thin sports-type sock under your thicker walking socks to lessen friction between the boot and your skin.

   Rub talcum powder into your feet before you set off.

   If you’ve got a ‘hot spot’ – an area that’s prone to blisters no matter how far you walk – stick a hydro-colloid plaster, or strap zinc oxide plaster, surgical tape or micro-pore tape over it before you set off.

   Ordinary plasters fold and rub against the sock and your skin – especially in a moist environment – so they’re more likely to give you a blister than save you from getting one!

We as hikers have the absolute duty to respect and protect our Wildernesses. Nobody else will do it for us. Take ownership!

The End.

Safe Hiking.

References and Acknowledgements

From the book: The Ultimate Hiking Skills Manual – Hinkes/Bagshaw

Photos:  ©Willem Pelser

Compiled by:  Willem Pelser

THE MNWENI - DRAKENSBERG - PLACE OF FINGERS

                             “HIKING TRIALS ARETHE RANDOM

WRITING ON THE WALL

THAT TELLS HOW EVERY
MAN,

GROWN TIRED AT HEART

OF THINGS CORRECT AND
ORDERED,

COMES TO SCRAWL

HIS HAPPY HOUR DOWN –

THEN GOES TO START
LIFE OVER

WITH EAGERNESS AND
YEST,

WHO BUILTS A TRIAL

FIND LABOR THAT IS
REST!”

UNKNOWN

Rugged summits of the Rockeries Pinnacles

  THE MNWENI 

DRAKENSBERG

PLACE OF FINGERS

South of the Royal Natal Park, and stretching as far as the Cathedral Peak spur, an exciting and wild stretch of mountainous country awaits you. The imaginative tribes call this area the Mnweni – ‘the Place of Fingers”. This is where the numerous eroded peaks and pinnacles were carved by the winds of time into various shapes and sizes, each vying with its neighbor to match the mighty Mponjwana, and where, far below, the deeply incised river valleys greedily gather the waters rushing from the mountain slopes, ever racing through the maze of valleys eventually to join the Tugela.

   It was here that the remnants of the Amangwane tribe settled. Today they live side by side with the Amazisi. The picturesque setting of the grass beehive huts and the primitive ox-drawn sledges, with the Drakensberg as backdrop, adds beauty to the enchanting and mysterious valleys of the Mnweni.

   The gateway to the northern part of this area is along a rough gravel road which winds up the Singati Valley between the prominent sandstone hill Ehlankomo to the south and a well-known ridge to the north, the crest of which has been eroded into a group of amazing life-like forms, the Frog, Tortoise, Crocodile and Sleeping Beauty, best viewed from Royal Natal National Park. The road follows the Singati River and from the end of this road a path leads to the Singati Cave. Bushman paintings were removed from this shelter many years ago and displayed at the Royal Natal National Park during the Royal visit in 1947. High above the cave, the Singati Wall and Mount Amery are part of the Main Berg.

   To take the traveler into the main Mnweni valley there is a turn-off opposite the Rookdale Mission on the main Bergville-Mont-aux-Sources national road. No hotels, guest houses, or camp sites are to be found in the remote valleys.

   The Mnweni hit the headlines in April 1953 when it was the scene of a dramatic mountain rescue. A party of experienced mountaineers set off from Cathedral Peak Hotel and for the Mponjwana Cave from which they were to climb on the Rockeries. One climber, who was not feeling well on the first leg of their journey, became delirious in the Mponjwana Cave. Alarmed by his condition, one climber set off at great speed back to the Hotel to get help, leaving one climber to care for him, whose condition was deteriorating. After an amazing dash in incredible time, a rescue party arrived at the cave and wasted no time in getting the climber down to Rockeries Pass.  How the rescue party must have battled and struggled down a pass where the path is rugged and narrow will never be known. Tired, hungry and cold after crossing the Ntonjelana River which was in flood, they arrived at the end of the road where an ambulance was waiting. Although the climber survived this ordeal, he died at Ladysmith Hospital.

North and South Peaks of the Saddle

      In February 1956 the Mnweni once again splashed the headlines when five policemen were brutally murdered by a mob of angry Amangwane tribesmen after dagga had been discovered and confiscated.

   Beyond the old Moliva Store there is a divide – the confluence of the Ntonjelana and Mnweni rivers.

   For the mountaineer who would like to enjoy probably the finest escarpment walk in South Africa, a trip from Mount-aux Sources to Cathedral Peak is a must. By leaving the hut on the Amphitheater and walking due south one can find a bridle path, which meets the escarpment edge near the Mnweni Pinnacles, but much of the best mountain scenery is missed using this route. A most rewarding route is to travel south, as previously described, and then to travel east behind some high ground behind Mount Amery. This route brings one to the Singati Wall. From the south-eastern end of the wall the Eastern Buttress, Devil’s Tooth, Inner Tower and Mount Amery can be seen. Mount Amery was named after Colonel L S Amery who climbed to the summit during the Anglo Boer war in the 1900 and later held high office in Britain.

Clouds enveloping the escarpment, Mbundini area

   A party of climbers arrived on the top of the Amphitheater during Easter 1930 to open the Natal Mountain Club hut, which was completed mainly thanks to the help of Otto Zunckel of the National Park. The next morning members walked across to the peak that Colonel Amery had ascended in 1900 and the peak was christened Mount Amery by pouring a bottle of petrol over the cairn. All the available liquor had been drunk the previous night when they celebrated the opening of the hut.

   Below the south-eastern end of the Singati Wall is Mount Oompie named after Oompie Liddle, who first climbed the peak in July 1924.

   From the Singati Wall the escarpment runs due south, past the Incidi Pass, which leads down past the Incidi Pinnacles and a path follows the Incidi River and finally leads to the old Moliva Store. Near the top of the Pass the Incidi Cave is a useful shelter in the event of bad weather, useful because there is not much shelter in this part. The main Incidi Buttress faces due south and overlooks the Incidi Valley. From the edge there are some excellent views of the peaks to the south.

   A footpath sometimes referred to as the Incidi Pass, follows the Incidi River, and eventually joins the Mnweni River. Jubilee Cave can be found almost halfway between the escarpment and the Mnweni River.

Singati Wall and Mount Amery (wedge shaped peak)

     From this point the walk, following the edge of the escarpment, is most pleasant as the Stimela Ridge and Stimela Peak are traversed. The Amangwane below are adamant that the peak and ridge resemble the old steam mail train, hence the name Stimela.

   Still travelling south along the edge of the escarpment the Mbundini Buttress and the Mbundini Abbey cannot be missed. Separated from the Abbey is the Abbey Spire and below a fantastic array of smaller spires and pinnacles which ornate the Abbey, grimly withstanding the forces which will eventually send them crashing one by one to the valley below. Between the Buttress and Abbey a foot- pass leads down past the Mbundini Cave and joins the Mnweni near Shepherd’s Cave. From the Abbey a detour is necessary to avoid the Mbundini cutback. There are two passes which descend to the valley below. About 76 meters below the escarpment, in the right wall of the highest main side gully is Fangs Cave. Not far from the cave are the Fangs and the Molar.

Inner and Outer Mnweni Needles and Mponjwana from the Mbundini Abbey

     At the southern section of the cutback is Renqwa Peak – named after a chief in the Upper Tugela Location. Between Renqwa and Black-and-Tan Wall is the Renqwa Pass. A cave is situated about 61 meters from the top of the pass. To reach this shelter a scramble up the southern part of the gully is necessary.

   Tucked away, and hidden from the foothills below, is the deepest cutback along the whole length of the Drakensberg. Remote, rugged and mysterious this deep “Mnweni Cutback” can boast of more pillars, columns, spires, minarets, and rocky formations than any other single recess. Here one is forced to circumvent the cutback in order to see the source of the Orange River as well as the Rockeries.

Rockeries Pinnacles, Cathedral Peak, Bell, Outer Horn and North Peak Saddle from top of the Rockeries Pass

      After this impressive sight a walk round the edge of the cutback reveals a spire, “uCikicane”, which is the Zulu word for “little finger”. Now also in view are the Twelve Apostles and Eeny-Meeny-Miny-Mo. The latter group is close to the Mnweni Pass, leading down to the Mnweni River. The top of the pass is the best place from which to view the Mnweni Pinnacles lying to the west.

   The Mnweni Pinnacles are elusive. They seldom reveal their true magnitude and their beautiful form unless seen from the top of the pass or from Black-and-Tan Wall or from Renqwa. The inner Mnweni Pinnacle is spear like in shape and gives the impression that it is the more difficult climb of the two.

Source of the Orange River

   The Outer Mnweni Pinnacle, which is broader at the base and does not look as difficult as the Inner Pinnacle, was first climbed in December 1948.

   This is still rated as one of the most difficult and exposed climbs in the Berg. The route taken has not been climbed again but, in March 1959, the Outer Pinnacle was climbed by the Eastern-Arête, which is an easier route. Below the Outer Pinnacle is Mount Neefie, a perfect complement to Mount Oompie.

   The source of the Orange River is a saucer-shaped depression that lies between the head of the Mnweni Pass and the high ridge above Mponjwana Cave.

Eroded pillars, pinnacles, and spires deep in the Mnweni Cutback

   

   At this point parties traversing the Berg are inclined to by-pass the Rockeries area. But in doing so they certainly miss some of the grandest scenery in the Range.

   The pride of Mnweni is the Rockeries, with their pinnacles, classified A to H, and the gigantic free-standing Mponjwana Peak, opposite the Mponjwana Cave which lies just below the escarpment.

Rockeries and Mponjwana from Maquela’s Kraal

      South of the Rockeries is the Rockeries Pass which leads down the Ntonjelana Eshonalanga, past Maquela’s Kraal and on to Moliva’s store. Between the Rockeries and the Cathedral Spur a prominent buttress, called the Saddle, can be recognized from a great distance away. The Saddle has a North  Peak and a South Peak, both of which are separated from the escarpment. North Peak was first climbed in 1924 and South Peak in 1947.

   A popular and oft-used mountain pass, the Ntonjelana Pass, has been the road used for many years by those Basotho who travel from the north-eastern highlands of Lesotho down to Moliva’s Store to replenish their supplies.

   The most southern part of this Place of Fingers – the charming Mnweni – ends as we reach the Cathedral Spur.

Note

As beautiful as it is, this is no longer a safe, secure area, and great care must be taken by groups venturing into Mnweni. It is absolutely not advisable for small groups. Check the security situation beforehand; enquire at the various reserve offices.

We as hikers, explorers, and
adventurers have the absolute duty to respect and protect our Wildernesses.
Nobody else will do it for us. Take ownership!

The End.

Safe Hiking.

References and Acknowledgements

From the book: Extract and photos from the book ‘A Cradle of Rivers – The Natal Drakensberg ’ –  David A Dodds                                                                                    

Photos:  David A Dodds  

Compiled by:  Willem Pelser