Quathlamba
This blog is all about the Drakensberg Mountains and its Wilderness area, South Africa. I have lost my heart and soul to this area and every single time I hike these mountains, I stand in awe all over again at this magnificent beauty.
"How often in the course of our travels through Kwazulu-Natal do we stop and gaze at the beauty of a distant range of mountains? The Drakensberg stands as a monument to one of the greatest cataclysms the Earth has experienced. As you approach the mountains, you realize why early Zulus called it "Quathlamba", meaning a Barrier of Up-pointed Spears". A cradle of rivers. Listen to the streams as they gurgle from their cradles and you will hear the story of the mountains. You will hear fascinating tales if only you listen! Lie next to a stream and listen to the song of the mountains. The smiling faces of the flowers, dancing in the wind. Venture into the remote valleys or stand on a peak at sunrise or sunset, after snow has fallen, and you will hear a song that you will never forget - the Song of the High Mountain". (DA Dodds)
Hiking adventures, hiking gear reviews, day walks, accommodation, books, articles and photos, all related to these magnificent mountains will feature here.
Should you want to accompany me on a hike or needs some information or advice, please make contact with me. I hope you enjoy the articles. Please visit the archive of this blog for more great stories.
Available in the Archive (Do read it!)
1) Injasuthi to Lotheni - Epic 6 Day Hike
2) Review: Hi-Tec Altitude Pro RGS Hiking Boots
3) Drakensberg Wilderness Hiking - 14 Day Hiking trip - Lotheni Reserve (Part 3)
4) Lotheni - 14 Day Hiking Trip (Part 2)
5) Lotheni - 14 Day Hiking Trip (Part 3)
POISONOUS
SNAKES OF THE DRAKENSBERG MOUNTAINS
It is wise
for people who hike the Drakensberg to become familiar with the types of snakes
they are likely to encounter. The usual fear of snakes can be greatly reduced
by the ability to distinguish between the dangerous and the harmless varieties.
Many snakes are killed purely because they are snakes, even though they perform
a vital service to man by reducing the number of rats, mice, slugs and many
other pests.
Whether or
not one is likely to encounter snakes while hiking, depends upon the time of
the year, time of day, and the weather. During the winter months, particularly
after snow has fallen; it is unlikely that snakes will be encountered. It is
common knowledge that snakes hibernate during the winter months. However, this
does not mean that snakes will not be seen during this time. During certain
mild winters, especially on warm winter days, snakes appear and bask in the
sunshine, but at this time of year they are sluggish.
Hikers are
more likely to come across snakes in summer, particularly on hot days after a
wet spell.
Most snakes
are harmless and will try and get out of the way, but if a poisonous snake
happens to be basking in the sun there is a good chance of being bitten if by
chance one stands on it. Vibrations are normally picked up by the snake’s ribs,
which contact the ground, and are transmitted to the inner ear. In this way it
receives the warning and rushes off to safety. People walking barefoot run a
greater risk of standing on a snake, than the hiker with his heavy boots which
give the warning. Arboreal snakes do not receive the same warning as those
living on the ground.
The early
Natal Settlers treated snake bite by scarifying the tissue around the puncture.
They then poured gunpowder into the wound and set fire to the powder! Do not
try it today!
The early
Basotho believed that a dangerous snake, called “kuane”, lived between the
horns of the eland, and a legend still exists in Lesotho of a snake, presumably
a Berg adder, which is capable of jumping over a horse!
Puff Adder (Bitis
Arietans)
The puff adder is the most dangerous snake found in the river valleys and grasslands of the Little Berg, but is seldom found higher than 1800-2 000 meters. A mature adult is about 1 meter in length, is fat and has a flat triangular head. The color varies from yellow to brown on which there are chevron-shaped black cross bands on the back and tail. On top of the head there is a black patch which is separated from another patch on the snout by a narrow pale bar. There is also a black bar behind and in front of the eye.
Sluggish by
nature, it loves to bask in the hot sun, on paths, rocks and small clearings in
the grass and also under vegetation. Before striking the puff adder inflates
itself and puffs loudly to warn any intruder. Note that the puff adder will not
move away! Although it appears to be slow moving, it is amazing how quickly it
is able to strike. It usually lunges forward, or even sideways, with mouth wide
open and it sinks its very large fangs, which measure up to 25 mm, into the
lower leg, then it immediately releases its fangs and prepares for the next
strike, seldom holding onto its victim. The bite is extremely painful and is
followed by shock, nausea, vision becomes blurred and balance is also affected.
Smell and taste may also be affected. If untreated, unconsciousness and cardiac
arrest follow, resulting in death.
Berg Adder (Bites
Atropes)
Peculiar to
mountainous areas this adder is often seen on walks and climbs and can be found
anywhere in the Berg, but is more commonly seen on the High Berg above 1800
meters. About 30-50 cm in length, it has atypical adder head with nostrils
directed upwards and outwards.
The berg
adder is slate gray to dark brown but lighter brown varieties are found. On its
back there are rows of black triangular or semi-circular patterns edged in a
lighter color with the apices of the patterns pointing towards the vertebral
midline. Below the base of these triangles is a longitudinal line, light in
color, running almost the length of the body.
Below the line is another row of black patterns. On top of the head is a
black arrow-shaped mark with the point between the eyes.
This
aggressive adder is often seen on the paths, rocks or at the base of plants and
grass. Its first warning is a hissing noise followed by an energetic strike
throwing its body forward at the same time. Care should be taken whilst moving
through dead wood or alpine heath as berg adders are sometimes found at the
base of the plants. A bite on the finger will create a problem at high
altitudes.
The venom is
more neurotoxic than haemotoxic and the usual polyvalent anti snakebite serum
is contra-indicated. No tourniquet should be applied. The onset of symptoms at
high altitude is quicker but the bite from the berg adder is not likely to be
fatal if the necessary precautions are taken. If the victim’s condition
deteriorates cortisone is recommended.
The Berg
adder lives on rodents and lizards.
Rinkhals (Hemachatus
Haemachatus)
A dangerous
poisonous front-fanged snake, commonly found all over the Berg and Lesotho from
the river valleys to the summit plateau. It is easy to recognize because as one
approaches it rears, cobra fashion, with hood expanded, and is capable of
spitting its venom into the eyes of anyone who ventures to near.
It usually
adopts this fierce attitude but is too keen to slip away. Also take note that
they sometimes play dead! Do not approach or touch in this instance. During
mating season they are particularly aggressive and it is wise to give them a
wide berth.
The Rinkhals
is about 90-120 cm in length, and varies in color from black to dark brown,
often with irregular cross bands which are also variable in color. The older
specimens are usually very dark. When it rears, usually two to three pale bands
can be seen on the throat. The fangs of the Rinkhals are fairly short but are
highly specialized, enabling it to eject
venom by spitting as well as inject whilst biting.
The venom is
neurotoxic and a bite from the Rinkhals must be treated as a serious emergency.
If the Rinkhals happens to spit into the eyes, they should be washed out
immediately with water.
Night Adder (Causes
Rhombeatus)
Seldom seen
but this does not mean that they are rare in the Berg. The night adder is
nocturnal by nature and it is possible that there are many more than estimated.
They have tendency to be attracted to damp places where they feed on frogs,
rats and mice, which satisfy their healthy appetite. Sometimes they are seen
basking on a rock, enjoying the early morning or late afternoon sun, usually in
the river valleys.
The average
size is 60 cm and the color varies from dark grey to light or dark brown, or
even pinkish brown, with typical dark rhomboidal irregular markings. On the
back of the head there is a characteristic dark V pattern, the apex of which is
between the eyes.
Not nearly
as poisonous as the puff adder, the bite from the night adder is seldom fatal
to humans. The fangs are supplied with unusually long venom gland. Normally the
night adder is docile and tends to slither away to safety, but if provoked
adopts an aggressive attitude.
There
are some simple precautions to take that can help you avoid getting within
striking range:
·
The leader, and
especially the person immediately behind him / her, should be constantly on the
lookout for snakes during the hot summer months and in early autumn (when they
go on a feeding frenzy in preparation for their winter hibernation). Often
the leader will disturb a snake and it may go into a defensive pose ready to
strike at any further threat, which is very likely to be the next hiker in the
queue! Beware of small or sudden movements, and large contrasts in color.
·
The poisonous snakes
mentioned above do not like to be disturbed or interfered with, and will try to
give you plenty of warning of this. An aggravated Puff Adder or Rinkhals
will make a loud, drawn-out huffing noise (haaaaaaaaaa), and the Rinkhals will
also rear its head and form a flattened hood which can extend a considerable
distance down its body. This noise is usually sufficient to grab anyone's
immediate and undivided attention! Beware of the Rinkhals - it can spit a
lot further than it can strike! The generally smaller Berg Adder will
usually make a higher-pitched hissing noise. Young Berg Adders appear to
squeak.
·
Except for the fat and
sluggish Puff Adder, most snakes will be terrified at your approach and will
try to make a quick getaway. If you are walking in single file, this
gives them an almost 360 degree choice of route. If you are walking
in line abreast, this choice is drastically reduced to less than 180 degrees. The Puff Adder
and Berg Adder adopt a defensive coiled posture if they feel they cannot escape
in time, while the Rinkhals will rear up and flatten its hood. The adders
can strike at an alarming speed, straightening one or more of their coils in
the process and thus extending their reach, then immediately reloading their
"spring" for the next strike which might follow almost
instantly! Do not approach a coiled snake!
·
The leader can find a
walking stick or pole useful in thickly grassed or overgrown areas where he
cannot see his own feet. Poking the stick ahead of him, he can give any
snake better warning of his approach and allow more time for them to attempt an
escape.
·
Avoid walking in
dongas (eroded paths) where a snake might be able to strike you at thigh height
or even higher.
·
Always wear ankle-height
hiking boots. Open sandals provide no protection from snakes
whatsoever. The author prefers to wear full-length snow gaiters as well
for various reasons, one of them being better protection from snakes.
Never assume it is safe to walk around barefoot or in sandals outside your cave
or tent!
·
When scrambling up or
down steep slopes, check carefully where you put your hands. Berg Adders
are fond of lying on small rock ledges, and climbers are the most frequent
victims of their bites.
·
Snakes are most active
at night, since this is when their food - consisting mainly of frogs and
rodents - is also most active. In summer, snakes tend to spend the
daytime heating themselves in the sun in preparation for their night-time
hunting activity, or - if it is very hot - lying up in shade somewhere.
It makes sense, then, that snakes are more likely to be encountered at night,
or in the early morning or late afternoon. Avoid hiking at night!
·
Snakes hibernate in
winter but they do not go into deep hibernation like mammals. On a hot
winter's day they may leave their burrows to sun themselves, so be especially
careful in such conditions.
·
Always check the
ground in the area where you are about to sit very thoroughly. Stamp
around a bit before you sit - this gives a snake further warning and the
flattened grass will make it easier to check the area. More than one
hiker has been struck on the backside by an irritated little Berg Adder, which
can easily be mistaken for a twig!
·
As terrifying as it
sounds, if you get almost to within striking distance of a Puff Adder of Rinkhals,
it is best to freeze! Snakes do not really want to bite you - they prefer
to keep their venom for catching food, and you're too big to eat! These
snakes have poor vision and are best at detecting movement. If you keep
still they will usually calm down and move off, although they might still adopt
some form of defensive posturing like huffing. This is exactly how they
react when confronted by large animals such as the Eland.
·
These snakes might
appear aggressive but they will not chase you even if they could! Given
half a chance they prefer to disappear from site within as short a time as
possible. If the snake is at a safe distance, simply stop and make way
for it. Then make a wide berth around the area where you last saw it, and
remember to tell the others at the back of the line what area to avoid!
·
Never attempt to catch
or pick up a snake. The Rinkhals is usually so reluctant to bite that it
may even feign death, but this act will be abandoned if you pick it up!
First aid
First Aid courses now teach the use of a
pressure bandage, where broad crepes bandage is wrapped around the affected
limb to restrict the spread of the poison. This bandage should not be
tied so tightly that it severely restricts the blood supply to the extremities
of the limb. Some snake handlers recommend that a bandage not be used at
all if the bite site is very painful, since this is indicative of a cytotoxic
poison whose restriction to the area of the bite will assist it in destroying
body tissue there!
Cytotoxic poisons may also cause rapid and
severe local swelling, so unless it is regularly loosened to allow for the
swelling, a bandage will eventually cut off the blood supply. An action
that has been part of every treatment, however, is the calming and
immobilization of the bite victim.
But
forget about the things that grovel on the ground and lift your eyes to the
heavens, from whence cometh the most beautiful sights of the mountains – the birds.
You are very likely to not ever see a snake. I saw one snake in 3 years of
heavy terrain, hiking off footpaths and in total wilderness areas! Enjoy the
hike!
Willem
Pelser
References and
Acknowledgements
Snake Photos
– “A Cradle of Rivers, the Natal Drakensberg” – David A Dodds
Snake
Information - “A Cradle of Rivers, the Natal Drakensberg” – David A Dodds
Best Walks
of the Drakensberg – David Bristow
The “Mountain Man” Website
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