Quathlamba
“A
mass of spears. Named thus by the Zulu warriors before the white man came.
Today called the Drakensberg, mountains of the Dragon, a name given by the
Voortrekkers. Evocative names, both equally applicable to South Africa’s
mightiest mountain range with its spear-like peaks – reminiscent of the
saw-toothed spine of a gigantic dragon.”
Panorama April 1966This blog is all about the Drakensberg Mountains and its Wilderness area, South Africa. I have lost my heart and soul to this area and every single time I hike these mountains, I stand in awe all over again at this magnificent beauty.
"How often in the course of our travels through Kwazulu-Natal do we stop and gaze at the beauty of a distant range of mountains? The Drakensberg stands as a monument to one of the greatest cataclysms the Earth has experienced. As you approach the mountains, you realize why early Zulus called it "Quathlamba", meaning “Barrier of Up-pointed Spears". A cradle of rivers. Listen to the streams as they gurgle from their cradles and you will hear the story of the mountains. You will hear fascinating tales if only you listen! Lie next to a stream and listen to the song of the mountains. The smiling faces of the flowers, dancing in the wind. Venture into the remote valleys or stand on a peak at sunrise or sunset, after snow has fallen, and you will hear a song that you will never forget - the Song of the High Mountain". (DA Dodds)
Hiking adventures, hiking gear reviews, day walks, accommodation, books, articles and photos, all related to these magnificent mountains will feature here.
Should you want to accompany me on a hike or need some information or advice, please make contact with me. I hope you enjoy the articles.
Please visit the archive for some more interesting stories, photos and reviews.
Available in the Archive
(Do read it!)
1) Injasuthi to Lotheni
- Epic 6 Day Hike
2) Review: Hi-Tec
Altitude Pro RGS Hiking Boots
3) Drakensberg
Wilderness Hiking - 14 Day Hiking trip - Lotheni Reserve (Part 3)
4) Lotheni - 14 Day Hiking
Trip (Part 2)
5) Lotheni - 14 Day
Hiking Trip (Part 3)
6) The Bushmen of the
Drakensberg
7) Thunderstorms in the
Drakensberg Mountains
8) Before setting out on a hike………..
9) Cathkin Peak – Drakensberg
10) Why backpack and
multi-day hiking
11) Safety in the
Drakensberg
12) In the Shadow of
Cathedral Peak
13) Injasuthi – ‘well
fed dog’
14) Lotheni Reserve
Please note that all photos on this blog are copyright protected. If
you would like to obtain Photos please make contact with the author, Willem Pelser.
LOTHENI RESERVE – ‘PLACE OF MY HEART’
“HIKING IN THE DRAKENSBERG IS
ABOUT THE FREEDOM OF A WILDERNESS EXPERIENCE, NOT ABOUT ‘HOW MUCH’ OR ‘HOW FAR’.
JUST GO OT THERE AND ENJOY THE MOUNTAINS LIKE A BUSHMAN. THEN YOU WILL DISCOVER
WHY THE DRAKENSBERG IS A CATHEDRAL OF THE SENSES”.
Lotheni is situated in the uKhahlamba-Drakensberg Park, South Africa’s
first cultural and environmental World Herbage Site.
Lotheni is a magnificent mountain haven renowned for its scenery and atmospheric camp. Situated in a spectacular
section of the uKhahlamba-Drakensberg Park, the main activities revolve around
mountain hiking and day walks with many scenic trails. The Emadundwini Trail
(12 kilometers) is highly recommended and other hikes include the Eagle, Falls,
Canyon and Jacobs Ladder Trails. Various routes to the mountain passes are also
available, taking you up to the escarpment.
The exceptional natural beauty of the uKhahlamba-Drakensberg
Park is evident in its soaring basaltic buttresses, golden sandstone ramparts,
rolling high altitude grasslands, steep-sided river valleys and rocky gorges.
The area has incredibly rich biodiversity including man endemic species.
This spectacular natural landscape also has many rock shelters, containing
the largest and most concentrated group of paintings in Africa, south of the
Sahara.
These were created by
the San people over a period of at least 40 years. The rock paintings are
outstanding in quality and diversity representing the spiritual life of the San
people who no longer live the region.
The name Lotheni first became known to
the farmers who lived close to the mountains when patrols were organized to
recover cattle which had been stolen by Bushmen raiders as early as 1847. These
marauders descended the Hlatimba Pass from Lesotho and followed the Lotheni
River and were bold enough to steal cattle from as distant a point as Karkloof.
Something had to be done to prevent these raiders from passing through the
unprotected Lotheni.
Eventually in 1859 Chief Lugaju and his tribe
were resettled in the Impendhle district to act as a buffer zone between the
farmers and the raiders. Bushmen raids then ceased.
Settlers, mainly from the British Isles, were
attracted to the midlands of Natal and some even ventured into the foothills of
the Drakensberg, especially once they found that they were safe from the
Bushmen since no raids had been reported after 1872. The pioneers who first
settled in the upper reaches of the Lotheni in 1890 were the McLeans and the
Brookes. A while later the Laurens family arrived, followed by the Root family.
When Charlie Laurens established a home
in the Lotheni, he set about creating a settlement for friends and relatives
from the Channel Isles. A survey was carried out but the expected settlers
never arrived.
During the severe rinderpest outbreak of
1894, Colonel Wilson from Underberg, with his black scouts, were send to
Lotheni to prevent cattle from the north infecting stock in the southern part
of the mountains. In the Nature Reserve there is a shelter called the Piket
where the Colonel and his men were stationed for almost a year.
That was not the only crisis during those
exciting years in the Upper Lotheni. In 1873 during the Langalibalele
Rebellion, Major Dunford and his force traversed the Lotheni Valley and then
ascended the Hlatimba Pass.
The origin of the name Lotheni is
uncertain, but the opinion is that it was derived from the deposits of the dark
shales so common in the valley and locally referred to as “oil shale”. To the
black people these shales look burnt, hence the name “Mlotheni” or “In the
Ashes”.
The Lotheni Reserve is well known to trout fishermen who delight
in casting their colorful flies into the cold, shallow waters of the Lotheni
hoping to catch a prize brown trout, while in the distance antelope graze
unmolested.
What could be better to sit outside your
chalet in the camp and to admire the magnificent view of the distant hazy
peaks, with Giant’s Castle dominating the lesser peaks, the Tent, Hawk and Redi.
From a particular angle the life-like shape of the Eagle adds to the charm of
the Valley of the Lotheni.
Accommodation -
Lotheni Hutted Camp
The comfortable hutted camp,
Electrically lit by generator form 17:00- 22:00, consists of
12 self-contained chalets,
Each with its own refrigerator, two- plate gas stove
(with a small oven), bathroom and toilet.
In addition to the chalets there are 2 six-bed fully
self-contained cottages.
Visitors must bring all their own food supplies and do their
own cooking.
The nearest source of provision is at the Lotheni store,
which is 14 km form the camp.
The curio shop at Lotheni supplies some basic groceries.
A deep-freeze is situated in the camp kitchen and is
available for use by camp visitors, as is a single large gas stove.
Accommodation - Simes Cottage
Simes cottage is a converted old farm house and can
accommodate 10 people in four rooms.
It is equipped with gas and visitors do their own cooking
and need to bring their own towels, sheets and pillow-slips.
The cottage is situated next to a small dam, which is
regularly stocked with trout.
The dam is reserved exclusively for visitors staying at
Simes cottage.
Accommodation - Campsites
There is a campground containing 14 campsites and served by an
ablution block with hot and cold water, situated 2 km from the camp, further up
the Lotheni Valley into the mountains.
Wildlife includes species such as common and mountain reedbuck, grey
reedbuck, eland, grey duiker, Oribi, Cape clawless otter, mongoose and baboon.
There is a diversity of birds, including black stork, verreaux’s eagle, bearded
vulture, lanner falcon, Cape vulture and giant kingfisher.
Many delightful walks and climbs may be undertaken and there are
excursions of this nature to suit all ages. It is advisable to carry warm
clothing at all times as the weather is often unpredictable.
Multi-day hiking is ideal to explore this stunningly beautiful area.
Mountain biking is allowed in designated areas. Picnicking is popular
and visitors are encouraged to take packed lunches with them.
Although chilly, swimming in the Lotheni River is safe unless it is in
flood. There is a very good swimming spot approximately 1 km below the camp at
Cool Pools.
The park is popular rendezvous for trout fishermen. Approximately 16 km
of the Lotheni River is stocked with brown trout. Should you wish to fish, the
payment of a daily rod fee is required to be made at the Camp Office. Only fly
tackle is permissible.
Gelib Tree Mountain Bike Trail
This 8 km Mountain
Bike Trail starts close to the camp and crosses over several small streams,
taking one up and down a few fairly steep, winding gradients.
Once on the grassland
plateau, breathtaking views of the surrounding escarpment can be absorbed at
length.
The historic Gelib
Tree is passed on route and is an ideal rest point. The trail ends near the
reserves entrance gate and a short ride in the direction of the camp brings one
to the day visitor area. Here the three museum buildings may be visited and
barbeque facilities are also available. A short stroll down to the river ends
in the Flat Rock pools where a refreshing swim can be enjoyed. The energetic
cyclist can cycle a further four kilometers along the tar road back to the
camp. Alternatively family or friends can meet cyclists at the museum. No extra
charge is presently levied for use of the Mountain Bike Trail.
The Emandundwini Trail
This Trail starts at
the reception gate area and it is approximately 12 km in length. Take the Trail
to the Lotheni River via the Tebetebe suspension bridge. Once across the river,
follow the trail to the left. The route is circular and takes you through a
variety of habitats including protea savanna, indigenous afro-montane forest and
grassland plains. A number of small streams have to be crossed and there are a
number of steep inclines along the route. The trail offers spectacular views of
the surrounding Drakensberg. Approximately half way along the trail one has the
opportunity to wander through a section of indigenous forest. This forest is a
good rest point and is excellent for bird watching. The trail is well marked
and distances are regularly given.
The trail should take
about six hours to complete, this will also allow for a number of rest stops. A
brochure on the trail is available from reception.
The Eagle Trail
The Eagle Trail starts from the gravel road between the hutted
camp and the campsite and ends at Simes cottage. It is approximately 12,8 km
and takes about six hours to complete if one includes a number of rest stops. The
trail starts with a long, fairly steep, incline. Along the route sections of
afro-montane forest and protea savanna are passed, providing a diversity of
plant life, which in turn attract a variety of bird life. Spectacular scenery
of the high 'Berg can be seen along the length of the trail. At the highest
point the trail doubles back along a grassland plateau and then winds down to
the Lotheni River. The course of the river is then followed, until the trail
ends near Simes cottage. At one point along the Lotheni River a large waterfall
is passed and there are numerous pools for swimming. The trail is well marked
and easy to follow. A brochure on the trail is available from reception.
The Jacobs Ladder Trail
This Trail starts at
the reception office and is about 2 km long. It is an easy-going trail with
only a few short inclines. It is highly recommended especially for family
groups. The trail takes you over the Lotheni River via the Tebetebe suspension
bridge and then runs parallel to the Lotheni River. The falls themselves are
found upstream of a small stream, which runs into the Lotheni River. There is a
large pool at the bottom of the falls perfect for swimming. The trail is well
marked and it is necessary to cross the Jacobs River a number of times.
Canyon Trail
The Canyon Trail
allows visitors access to the steep sided canyon, which is situated along the
Bhodla River. The 12 km trail starts approximately 500 m from the museum, on
the road to the camp. It takes you past the Gelib Tree, then winds up the
mountain slope and leads onto a long grassland plateau.
Once on the top of
the plateau the going is very easy with the trail ending above the canyon
itself. The trail offers spectacular views of the Lotheni valley and the Hawk
and Tent peaks as well as the Hlatimba Buttress on the escarpment. The more
adventurous may find a route into the base of the canyon and follow the river
up to a spectacular cascading waterfall, passing forest patches bursting with
life en-route.
Gelib Tree Trail
This trail starts
from the same point as the Canyon trail and is approximately 1,3 km. The trail
is well marked and is an easy climb, ending at the historic Gelib Tree. From
the Gelib tree you have a good view of waterfalls on the opposite valley and
also of the high Berg.
Settler's Museum
Visitors should make a point of visiting the Lotheni
Settler’s Homestead Museum. An interesting collection of early settler farming
implements and home utensils is on display at the old Root homestead, which has
been restored and refurnished in the style of the period.
General
No pets are permitted in the park.
Camping anywhere other than in designated areas is forbidden.
Gate entry time.
Summer (1 October- 31 March) 05: 00- 19:00
Winter (1 April- 30 September) 6:00- 18:00
The making of fire is strictly prohibited, except in
designated areas in the camp and campsite, because of the hazard of veld fires.
Hikers are reminded that all refuse must be brought back to
the camp for disposal.
Hikers must complete the mountain rescue register at the
camp office before and after their hike.
Gate Opening and Closing Times:
Summer ( October to March ) 05h00 to 19h00
Winter (April to September ) 06h00 to 18h00
Office Hours:
·
The office is open
from 08h00 to 12h30 and from 14h00 to 16h30
·
Distance and Time
from Gate to Camp: 4 kilometers
·
Camp Telephone
Number: (033) 7020540
·
Camp Fax: (033)
7020540
·
Check Out Time: 10h00
·
Check In Time: 14h00
Shop:
Limited curios and supplies.
Special Precautions:
The weather is subject to change at short notice and can become
very cold. Hikers need to be well equipped.
The nearest town which has a full range of services is Underberg
which is 50 kms away.
How to get there:
From the south turn-off on the N3 at the Underberg Bulwer on R617
and proceed to Underberg. Lotheni is 50 kms away on a gravel road except for
the first 5 kms. From the north turn off the N3 to Nottingham Road and follow
the signs in the village . The reserve is 62 kms away about half of which is
gravel.
Pets are not permitted into the reserve.
"No entry fees will be charged for visits by KwaZulu-Natal
(KZN) Primary and Secondary School groups, from KZN Schools to KZN Protected
Areas and St Lucia Crocodile Center provided that such visits:
1. Are authorized by the
Head of the school
2. Are booked in advance
with the Officer in Charge of the Protected Area or Crocodile
3 . Do not take place over weekends, during KZN Provincial school
holidays or Public Holidays".
The End.
Willem Pelser
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