Quathlamba
“A
mass of Spears. Named thus by the Zulu warriors before the white man came.
Today called the Drakensberg, Mountains of the Dragon, a name given by the
Voortrekkers. Evocative names, both equally applicable to South Africa’s
mightiest mountain range with its spear-like peaks – reminiscent of the
saw-toothed spine of a gigantic dragon.”
Panorama April 1966
This blog is
all about the Drakensberg Mountains and its Wilderness area, South Africa. I
have lost my heart and soul to this area and every single time I hike these
mountains, I stand in awe all over again at this magnificent beauty.
"How
often in the course of our travels through Kwazulu-Natal do we stop and gaze at
the beauty of a distant range of mountains? The Drakensberg stands as a
monument to one of the greatest cataclysms the Earth has experienced. As you
approach the mountains, you realize why early Zulus called it
"Quathlamba", meaning “Barrier of Up-pointed Spears". A cradle
of rivers. Listen to the streams as they gurgle from their cradles and you will
hear the story of the mountains. You will hear fascinating tales if only you
listen! Lie next to a stream and listen to the song of the mountains. The
smiling faces of the flowers, dancing in the wind. Venture into the remote
valleys or stand on a peak at sunrise or sunset, after snow has fallen, and you
will hear a song that you will never forget - the Song of the High
Mountain". (DA Dodds)
Hiking
adventures, hiking gear reviews, day walks, accommodation, books, articles and
photos, all related to these magnificent mountains will feature here.
Should you
want to accompany me on a hike or need some information or advice, please make
contact with me. I hope you enjoy the articles.
Please visit
the archive for some more interesting stories, photos and reviews.
Available in the Archive
(Do read it!)
1) Injasuthi to Lotheni
- Epic 6 Day Hike
2) Review: Hi-Tec
Altitude Pro RGS Hiking Boots
3) Drakensberg
Wilderness Hiking - 14 Day Hiking trip - Lotheni Reserve (Part 3)
4) Lotheni - 14 Day
Hiking Trip (Part 2)
5) Lotheni - 14 Day
Hiking Trip (Part 3)
6) The Bushmen of the
Drakensberg
7) Thunderstorms in the
Drakensberg Mountains
8) Before setting out on a hike………..
9) Cathkin Peak – Drakensberg
10) Why backpack and
multi-day hiking
11) Safety in the
Drakensberg
12) In the Shadow of
Cathedral Peak
13) Injasuthi – ‘well
fed dog’
14) Lotheni Reserve
15) Garmin eTrex 10
& 20 Specs and Review
16) The birth of the
Drakensberg – The Ancient Rocks
17) Drakensberg
Mountains – Rock Art
18) Drakensberg
Mountain Reserve Accommodation
19)
Drakensberg – Mkhomazi Area – Hikers Paradise
20)
Drakensberg – Hiking Kamberg – Highmoor - Kamberg, Exploring the Mooi
River Valleys
21)
Chelmsford Nature Reserve
22)
Bushmen Art – Deep in a Mooi River Valley
23)
Missing in the Drakensberg Mountains – Dragon’s Wrath
24)
Hiking Food and Clothes
25)
Wilderness Hiking Gear
26)
Thendele Walks – Royal Natal Reserve
Please note that all photos on
this blog are copyright protected. If you would like to obtain
Photos please make contact with
the author, Willem Pelser.
“THERE IS NOTHING IN LIFE
REALLY WORTH DOING THAT HAS NOT SOME ELEMENT OF RISK ATTACHED TO IT”
W Pelser
Thendele Walks – Royal Natal Reserve
Short Walks and Hikes – Thendele and Rugged Glen
Starting from the
hotel, main campground or the picnic site:
I. Cascades and McKinlay's
Pool:
Take the campsite
road to the casual car park.(Only vehicles of campsite residents are allowed
beyond this point). Walk along the road past the campsite. Fifteen minutes'
walk brings you to the Queen's Causeway and the Cascades. From there a good
path leads to McKinlay's Pool at which point the Gudu stream meets the Mahai.
(Round trip 5 km: 1 hour). To make a round trip, though the going is very
steep, a footpath leads up towards Dooley from the boulders near McKinlay's
pool, joining the Tiger Falls/Gudu Bush path. Return via Tiger Falls or Gudu
Bush. (Whole trip 8 km: 1 hour 45 minutes).
2. Fairy Glen:
Start down the main road and cross the bridge
opposite the Visitor Center. Then take the path to the left leading through the
bush to the Broome Hill stream. Cross and re-cross this, then follow up through
the bush to the waterfall. This glen is well named and is a delightful picnic
spot on a hot day. (1,6 km : 20 minutes).To make a round trip from Fairy Glen:
continue along the bridle path, turning left back to the hotel at the first
crossroads, or left just beyond these crossroads, along a path which leads to
the main campground. (Whole trip 4 km: 45 minutes).
3. Otto's Walk: This walk starts at
the far side of the Visitor Center car park. It is a self-guided trail of some
three kilometers and takes about 45 minutes to complete. A booklet providing
information on the walk is obtainable from the Visitor Center. Many trees are
identified and the walk is signposted all the way.
4. Sunday Falls:
Cross the Mahai below the casual car park.
Follow the path up and across the intersection (signposted) and so on to the
Surprise Ridge path. At the turning leading down to the falls is a signpost. Cross
above the falls and a track will be found leading down to the foot of the
falls. (3 km: 1 hour).
5. Bushman Paintings
in Sigubudu Valley:
Take the main reserve
entrance road and immediately after crossing the second bridge, turn up along a
path on the left (signposted). Continue on, and the paintings will be found
along a short stretch of west-facing rocks. (Whole trip 6 km: 1 hour 30
minutes).
6. Forest Walk:
In the Rugged Glen area a short circular walk
may be taken along a path from the visitors' car park, up the valley, turning
right along a path leading through several attractive bush patches to the Karos
Mont-Aux-Sources Hotel. From here the route along the boundary fence, and via
the road back to the visitors' car park, is obvious. (Whole trip 4 km: 50
minutes).
7. Camel's Hump:
From the visitors' car-park at Rugged Glen (signposted), follow the path up and then across the stream,
turning left at the first junction, and so on up to the Camel's Hump, from
which magnificent views across the reserve to the Drakensberg escarpment can be
seen. From the Karos Mont-Aux-Sources Hotel take the Main path leading into the
Park, and follow it until the Camel's Hump is reached. (Whole trip 5 km: 1 hour
10 minutes).
LONGER WALKS
8. Tiger Falls:
From Thendele Camp,
Tiger Falls is an easy walk of about 30 minutes along the path below Dooley.
From the hotel area these falls can be reached from the Cascades (Walk No 1) or
through the trees behind the hotel, along a path which begins behind the hotel
stables, (between the stables and the main building). Do not take any left
turns. The falls are reached at the first large stream and forest patch below
Dooley. (3 km: 45 minutes). Return via the Gudu Bush by continuing along the
path and across the Mahai, turning right when the bush is reached and so
through the forest and down to the hotel or main campground. (Whole trip 7 km:
1 hour 45 minutes).
9. Rugged Glen:
To this area from the hotel or main campground
area, you take the reserve entrance road as far as the park entrance. Turn left
along the Mont-Aux-Sources Hotel road, and left again up the Rugged Glen track
to the visitors' car park (signposted). (7 km : 2 hours).>br> From here
it is possible to return to the hotel over the Camel's Hump (Walk No 7) and
Surprise Ridge, where you meet the path from the hotel to the Cavern. As an
alternative route, turn right and proceed to the Cannibal Caves (1, 2 km) then
return to the hotel by the Surprise Ridge path. (Round trip 23 km: 7 hours 30
minutes). From the intersection of the Rugged Glen and Surprise Ridge paths
there is an alternative route back to the hotel, via the Grotto. This adds
another 2, 4 km to the walk (see Walk No 16).
10. Thendele Camp:
The hutted camp
established at the back of Dooley, high up on the side of the mountain,
commands a wonderful view of the Amphitheater with the Policeman's Helmet and Vemvaan Valley in the foreground. There is a road to the camp but only
residents may take their cars beyond the sign posted Gorge parking area. This
makes a nice morning's walk from the hotel area, travelling along the motor
road. (5 km: 1 hour 30 minutes). Proceed back to the hotel or camping area
along the path which starts on the Thendele road below the Lodge and passes
below the camp extension to the eastern end of the natural forest and on to
meet the hotel/Tiger Falls path. (Whole trip 10 km: 2 hours 30 minutes).
11. Gudu Falls:
From Thendele take
the path past Tiger Fall’s to the Gudu Bush. Soon after the stream is crossed a
path to the left will be seen which leads to these magnificent falls. From the
hotel, cross the Mahai below the casual car park and proceed up the hill to the
four-way junction, turning left. Here the path for those starting from the main
campground will be met. Continue on past the turn to the Mudslide and into the
forest. Turn right at the signpost and follow the steep path above and out of
sight of the stream for about I 600 meters, when the Gudu Falls will be
reached. (4 km: 2 hours). (Whole trip 9 km: 3 hours 30 minutes).
12. Dooley Waters
and the Mahai Valley:
Proceed to the upper
end of the Gudu Bush (see Walks No’s 8 and 11). Continue up the valley on the
main bridle path overlooking the Mahai stream for about 2, 5 km. Cross the
Mahai stream, a very attractive picnic spot, and continue up the north-facing
slope until a path junction is reached. Turn left up the Dooley Waters path, or
alternatively right to continue further up the Mahai valley to Basutu Gate.
{Campsite via
Cascades path junction "7 km: 2 hours, 30 minutes). NOTE: The Nek and the
path from the Nek to the Basutu Gate path are closed. The Dooley Waters path is
therefore a cul-de-sac.
13. Mahai Falls and Basutu
Gate:
At the Dooley Waters/Basutu
Gate path junction (see Walk No 12) turn right to continue further up the Mahai
Valley to the Mahai Falls. This is a popular picnic spot with an inspiring view
down the valley. From this point the path up to Basutu GateIWitsieshoek
Mountain Resort is obvious. On reaching Basutu Gate/Witzieshoek Mountain Resort
it is a short walk over the ridge (the boundary of Qwa Qwa) where one gets
magnificent views of the Maluti’s, often snow-clad in the winter months. The
word 'Mahai' is Sesuto for 'rocky krantz'. (11 km: 3 hours 45 minutes). To make
the round trip, from Basutu Gate continue along the path on the near side of
the fence for about three kilometers, crossing the source of the Gudu Stream on
the way. Then continue to the Crack (Walk No 14) or to the top of Gudu Falls,
and then back via the Mudslide. (Whole trip 24 km: 6 hours 30 minutes).
14. The Crack and
the Mudslide:
From Gudu Bush (Walks
No’s 8 and 11) continue up the valley for another 1 200 meters where a path
will be seen leading towards the Crack. The climb is very steep but a short
chain ladder helps one over the only difficult section. On reaching the top,
bear right onto the high ground overlooking the Mahai valley and make straight
for the top of the Gudu Falls, where an easy crossing of the Gudu stream can be
made about 50 meters up. This is a favorite place for a swim, and a good picnic
spot. Directions are hardly needed for scaling Plowman's Kop, from which point
a magnificent view is obtained. Return down the Mudslide. This starts beyond
the far corner of Plowman's Kop. The decent is very steep and loose and, after
rain, slippery .The short chain ladder at the start is helpful. At the foot of
the cleft, follow the main path round to the right until it joins up with the
hotel path and turn left for home. (Whole trip 11 km: 4 hours 40 minutes).
NOTE: The Mudslide is not suitable for young children or those suffering from
fear of heights.
15. Surprise Ridge and Cannibal Cave:
From the hotel/main
campground area head for Sunday Falls (Walk No 4) but keep along the main path
which crosses the Sunday Falls stream and later the Sigubudu stream. From the
latter point it is only a short distance to the ridge and the park boundary.
Just before the ridge
is reached a junction with paths leading to the Grotto (westwards) and the
Camel's Hump and Rugged Glen to the east should be noted. (10 km: 3 hours 45
minutes). From Thendele proceed via Tiger Falls and down through Gudu Bush to
the junction of the Mudslide path and the main Mahai path, and turn left up
towards the Mudslide. Continue past the foot of the Mudslide towards the
Grotto. Turn right to Camel's Hump/Castle Rocks. Proceed around Castle Rocks
and the Diamond until the junction referred to above is reached, then turn left
to the Ridge. (14 km: 5 hours).
From Rugged Glen
proceed on past the Camel's Hump (Walk No 7) to the junction and turn right to
the Ridge. (5 km: 1 hour 45 minutes).
This Ridge is well
named as there are surprisingly fine views in all directions. On a clear day
the distant peak of the Berg, including Cathkin, Champagne Castle and Cathedral
Peak can be picked out, while down below nestles the Cavern Berg Resort and
beyond this one can see the heights of Northern Natal. To Cannibal Cave, take
the track to the left along the ridge. This path, after crossing two small
streams below the Diamond on the Cavern side of the ridge, leads to the immense
cave, once reputedly a cannibal lair. There are some Bushman paintings on the
inner side of a large slab of rock in the middle of the cave. The walk can be
extended to the ridge above the cave if time permits and it is an easy scramble
to the top from which a magnificent view is obtained (30 minutes). One can
return along the path and down to Rugged Glen (Walk No 7 or 9). The most
interesting round trip from the hotel/main campground area is to return via the
Grotto by turning right (west) at the junction below the Ridge. Altogether the
trip from the hotel area to Surprise Ridge and the Cannibal Caves and back via
the Grotto is a trip no one should miss. The views are excellent and there are
several varieties of Protea to be seen.
Mountain reedbuck
frequent the area between Camel's Hump and Castle Rocks. (Round trip 22, 5 km:
6 hours 30 minutes).
16. The Grotto:
The route from
Thendele is described in Walk No 15. From Rugged Glen proceed past the Camel,
Surprise Ridge (Walks No’s 7 and 15) and on to the Grotto. From the hotel/main
campground area proceed as for Sunday Falls (Walk No 4), but soon after passing
the four-way junction and just short of the Fairy Glen Stream, turn left up the
Broome Hill valley. Continue climbing steadily until the Grotto forest is
reached. Eventually, the path comes to a dead end, but some ten meters before
this a faint path can be seen leading upwards to the left, and a ten minute
walk brings you to the Grotto.
The Grotto is in two
parts, consisting of two huge gorges cut through the sandstone, and both are
worthy of exploration. (5 km: 2 hours). (Whole trip 10 km: 3 hours 30 minutes).
17. Castle Rocks:
Follow the Grotto
route (Walk No 16), but before entering the main forest, turn right to Camel's
Hump/The Diamond. Shortly after crossing the stream turn left up towards the
sandstone cliffs. On entering the trees below the krantz turn left and follow
the sandstone. A signpost points to a hole in the krantz which takes you through
the rock face; thence up the steep grassy slope to the top. The view
overlooking the surrounding valleys is outstanding. Although the area is well
worth exploring, it is advisable to return by the same route. (6,5 km : 2 hours
20 minutes). (Whole trip 13 km: 4 hours).
18. Broome Hill:
Proceed up the Crack
(Walk No 14) to the top of Gudu Falls. Continue up the slope, keeping the top
of the sandstone cliffs on your right. On reaching the Basutu Gate/Broome Hill
path turn right. The summit of Broome Hill can be reached in just over an hour
from Gudu Falls, and magnificent views can be obtained in all directions.
Return via the Mudslide or Basutu Gate.
19. The Cavern:
Though beyond the park boundary, this is an
interesting walk. From Surprise Ridge (Walk No 15) take the path leading
straight down.
Bear left along and
across a stream. A signpost directs walkers along the path, over another
stream, then turn right and proceed down through the wattles. (Add half an hour
to the Surprise Ridge time).
20. Sigubudu Ridge:
Take the reserve
entrance road to the Sigubudu Bushman paintings path (Walk No 5). A short
distance before the krantz is reached, a path strikes out to the right, leading
to the plateau above the Bushman paintings. Walk up this plateau, finding your
own way. A path will be found which climbs up the centre of the ridge between
the Sigubudu and Forgotten valleys. Stay on this path through the proteas until
you reach a path which traverses the head of these valleys. Turn left to return
via the upper Sigubudu Valley and Sunday Falls, or right to reach Rugged Glen
or the Camel's Hump.
This is one of the
best walks to see game, especially if an early start is made. The round trip
from the hotel or the campground takes about two hours but allow a good deal
more for game spotting.
21. The Gorge:
From Thendele,
proceed down to the Tugela River, where the main Gorge path will be reached.
From here the route is obvious.
From the
hotel/campground area it is possible to save a three-kilometer walk by driving
to the foot of the Thendele hill, where parking will be found and the Gorge
path proper starts. If walking, a more interesting route, enabling one to avoid
the road, is to go via Thendele camp (Walk No 10). There is no more popular nor
picturesque walk than the Gorge walk; it should not be missed, and to enable
you to make the most of the trip, take a full day over it. For the first 6,5 kilometers
beyond the foot of Thendele hill there is a very good path and no steep climb.
No special directions are really needed. The path winds along, above and
parallel with the Tugela River. Not long after crossing the intersection stream
from Devil's Hoek, look out for the Policeman's Helmet on the high ground to
the right overlooking Vemvaan Valley. The last 1 600 meters through the Gorge
entails three crossings of the river (simple enough unless in flood). Many
visitors to the Gorge turn back at the first crossing. This is a pity, as the
most picturesque scenery at Royal Natal lies at the far end, and walking the
additional 600 meters is rewarding. Cross the stream and re-cross, keeping to
the path which is on the right-hand side of the Gorge, and keep on until you
reach the chain ladder on the cliff on the right-hand side. The chain ladder is
at the mouth of the tunnel. This tunnel is approximately 55 -65 meters long.
Use the chain ladder to skirt the tunnel or scramble through the tunnel, though
a ducking is likely, and so get into the Amphitheater. Boulder-hop up the
Tugela for about 800 meters, where each few meters gives you a complete change
of scenery. A steep path up the left-hand bank of the Eastern Buttress Gully
leads to the Tunnel Cave. If you stand with your back to the chain ladder, this
path will be directly in front of you. From the cave there is a wonderful view
of the Amphitheater wall, with the Sentinel on your right, and you will be able
to look over the Tunnel. If you proceed around the cave you will obtain an
excellent view down the valley towards the hotel. Warning: keep a lookout for
thunderstorms, as a heavy storm may bring down the river and delay your return
trip by a few hours. The best spot to picnic is at the end of the path, (11 km:
3 hours). (Whole trip 22, 5 km: 5 hours 30 minutes).
22. Devil's Hoek
Valley:
Start as for the Gorge Walk (No 21).
Shortly after leaving
the forest (10 minutes) a signpost points the way up the valley. Some ten
minutes' walk from here, on the right, you will notice a large rock on which
there are some Bushman paintings. Continue through a large patch of forest,
uphill across an open section and into a second area of forest.
At this point the
path ends, and any further progress is hard going. (Whole trip from the Gorge
car park 6 km: 2 hours). From Thendele camp Devil's Hoek Valley is within a
thirty-minute walk.
23. Vemvaan Valley:
Proceed as for Devil's Hoek Valley (Walk No 22). About 1 600 meters on from the Gorge car park, a path
branches to the left, crosses a stream and continues into Vemvaan Valley.
Various extensions from the head of the valley can be made by the energetic,
onto the higher ground. An example is along the Policeman's Helmet ridge (which
can be scaled from further back). This gives remarkable views in all
directions. (Whole trip from the Gorge car park 9 km: 3 hours). From Thendele
camp Vemvaan Valley is within an hour's walk.
24. The Lion:
This walk is outside
of the park and is not sign posted. The ridge undoubtedly affords some of the
most spectacular views in the area, and is especially good for remarkable views
of the Amphitheatre, Tugela Falls and the Sentinel. Starting from the Gorge car
park, cross the Tugela River and join the path going around to the right of the
ridge. This path zigzags through the proteas until reaching a field ranger
outpost. Continue up the fence line until you reach the sandstone cliffs. Cross
the fence, and you will note a large cave. To the left of the cave is a steep,
grassy gully, which brings you onto the ridge.
From here it is a
steady climb upwards to the foot of the Eastern Buttress where further progress
is not recommended. (From the Gorge car park to the sandstone cliffs: 1 hour).
25. Mont-Aux-Sources:
This is an
outstanding trip, but requires at least two days, with a night being spent at
the summit of the Amphitheatre.
Numbers of visitors
to the summit are restricted to 50 overnighters and 50 day visitors. Booking
for overnight camping can be made through the Qwa-Qwa Tourist Officer ,
telephone (058) 7134415 Before setting out it is important that you complete
the necessary details in the Mountain Register which is kept at the Visitor
Centre. This formality is for your own safety. Take the route to Basutu Gate
via the Mahai Falls (Walk No 13). Note that the Nek is closed.
At Basutu Gate/Witzieshoek
Mountain Resort the motor road coming from Witzieshoek is reached, and it is
necessary to walk along the road (10 kilometers) to its end at the Sentinel car
park. From the Sentinel car park, the path zigzags uphill and takes you past
the Witches, from where a grand view of the Devil's Tooth is obtained. Continue
past the foot of the Sentinel (3 165 meters) and on to the base of Beacon
Buttress. A steep rocky gully leads to the summit from this point, and in the
old days, this was the usual way to the top. Nowadays it is customary, and far
easier, to continue along the path to its end. Two chain ladders (100 rungs)
take you to the summit. From the top of the ladder it is about 1 600 meters to
a mountain hut, manned by KwaZulu-Natal Nature Conservation Service field
rangers on weekends and public holidays. If only remaining one night on the
top, it is essential to be up with the sun. There should be time after an early
breakfast to walk, crossing the Bilanjil and Ribbon Falls streams on the way,
to Mount Amery (3 143 meters) overlooking the Singati Valley. From either of
these vantage points a fine view is obtained of the distant Berg peaks. (Whole
trip: 14, 5 km).
If you spend a second
night at the top, there is ample time to visit the highest point, Mont-
Aux-Sources (3 282 meters) some 4 km away.
From here you can see
the sources of the Tugela, Elands and the Western Khubedu (Upper Orange)
rivers. The danger of being lost in the mist, or having to spend a night
unexpectedly on top of the mountain, must be stressed. Keep a good lookout for
changes in the weather as mists and storms come up rapidly. Always allow for
ample time to set up camp, and avoid leaving equipment unguarded, as there have
been a number of instances of possessions being stolen.
To return:
The return journey takes
no longer to go down via the Gully, climbing to the top of Beacon Buttress (3
121 meters) on the way. This walk should not be attempted if misty. (22, 5 km:
9 hours). (Whole trip 45 km: 17 hours).
By Car:
Travelling by car, it
is possible to visit the summit in a day by driving around to the Sentinel car
park at the end of the road, purchasing a permit en route.
This trip is an
extremely popular day's expedition. Again, it must be stressed that the weather
at this altitude is extremely unpredictable, and can change with alarming
rapidity. Protective clothing is therefore essential, even if you are only
going for the day. Directions starting from the park are as follows:
Follow the main
Bergville road, turning left onto the Oliviershoek Pass/Harrismith road.
Continue over the pass and into the Free State. On reaching the Harrismith/Qwa
Qwa road, turn left. Continue on this road, turning left again at the Qwa Qwa
turnoff. Follow this road to its end. A number of signs point the way to Witzieshoek
Mountain Resort. Eventually a Y junction is reached, and on the left the
mountain resort can be seen. Continue on the right-hand fork to the car park at
the base of the Sentinel. Allow two hours' walk from the Sentinel car park to
the chain ladders, a number of hours for exploring the summit, and two hours
for the return journey to the car park. (Distance by car, one way
-approximately 130 km: 2 hours 15 minutes).
Safe Hiking.
The End.
Willem
Pelser – The Mountain Man
