Sunday, 3 April 2016

DRAKENSBERG - GIANT’S CASTLE RESERVE

Quathlamba
“A mass of Spears. Named thus by the Zulu warriors before the white man came. Today called the Drakensberg, Mountains of the Dragon, a name given by the Voortrekkers. Evocative names, both equally applicable to South Africa’s mightiest mountain range with its spear-like peaks – reminiscent of the saw-toothed spine of a gigantic dragon.”
Panorama April 1966





This blog is all about the Drakensberg Mountains and its Wilderness area, South Africa. I have lost my heart and soul to this area and every single time I hike these mountains, I stand in awe all over again at this magnificent beauty.

“Listen to the streams as they gurgle from their cradles and you will hear the story of the mountains. You will hear fascinating tales if only you listen! Lie next to a stream and listen to the song of the mountains. The smiling faces of the flowers, dancing in the wind. Venture into the remote valleys or stand on a peak at sunrise or sunset, after snow has fallen, and you will hear a song that you will never forget - the Song of the High Mountain". (DA Dodds)

Hiking adventures, hiking gear reviews, day walks, accommodation, books, articles and photos, all related to these magnificent mountains will feature here.

Should you want to accompany me on a hike, or need some information or advice, please make contact with me. I hope you enjoy the articles.

Please visit the archive for some more interesting stories, photos and reviews.

Please note that all photos on this blog are copyright protected. If you would like to obtain
Photos please make contact with the author, Willem Pelser.








“AROUND MY HEAD A CHILL WIND SENT SHIVERS THROUGH THE GRASS, THEN LAY DOWN AND DIED.
FAR, FAR AWAY I HEARD A
JACKAL HOWLING AT THE MOON.
THEN IT WAS STILL.”




DRAKENSBERG GIANT’S CASTLE RESERVE


The great basalt wall of the Drakesberg erupts from the undulating hills of KwaZulu-Natal like a fearsome giant, trespassing in some gentle paradise. Serrated peaks more than 3 km high pierce the clouds above a wilderness of plateaus, rolling grasslands and valleys incised by icy streams.

   Here in the Giant’s Castle Reserve the Drakensberg reveals itself as a long wall of rock, dominated in the southwest  by Giant’s Castle itself, a 3 314 m mass of basalt that towers above the rest.

   The brooding presence of this peak inspired fear in the African communities that lived in the valleys below. They believed that Giant’s Castle’s vicious thunderstorms and unrelenting barrages of lightning were signs of the mountain’s anger. They believed that you should never point at the mountain.

    Today Giant’s Castle is a breathtaking beacon that draws visitors from all over the world to the beautiful reserve at its feet, and to the extraordinary array of walks and trails that explore some of the finest mountain scenery in Africa. Apart from its natural splendour, this part of the Drakensberg (Dragon’s Mountain) range holds one of the richest stores of San Art on the continent.

   Giant’s Castle Reserve covered just 7 000 ha when it was proclaimed in 1903, but additions of land over the years, including the Injasuthi area, have brought the total area to 34 000 ha.

   The reserve is situated in western KZN, just 63 km west of Mooi River, at the headwaters of the Bushman’s and Little Tugela Rivers. It is bordered in the west by Lesotho, and ranges in height from 1 300 m to 3 280 m.

   From the air the reserve reveals itself in three distinct levels, ranging through the forested valleys and gorges of the Lower Berg, the undulating grasslands of the Middle Berg, and the icy upper reaches of the High Berg, where only the hardiest heaths and shrubs can survive.

   The valleys and gorges are fringed with luxuriant forests of yellowwood and ironwood, white stinkwood and Cape chestnut which, in turn, attract a teeming population of riverine birds.

   The grasslands are peppered with dense stands of fynbos and proteas with its attractive flowers.



WILDLIFE

   The most commonly seen mammals are the antelope eland, blesbok, reedbuck, mountain reedbuck and grey reedbuck. Hikers however, are also likely to see baboons, rock dassies, blackbacked jackals and anyone of the three mongoose species. Less conspicuous are the nocturnal cats – servals, African wild cats and caracals.

   Hikers should take heed that reptiles in the reserve include the highly venomous puffadder and berg adder, as well as the yellowbellied house snake and the spotted skaapsteker.




BIRDLIFE
   There are about 174 species of bird at Giant’s Castle, the most prized of which is the bearded vulture, or lammergeier, whose home range in Southern Africa is exclusive to the mountainous regions of KZN and Lesotho. You may see these graceful birds soaring on the thermals above the main camp, or watch them feeding at the Vulture restaurant, established near Bamboo Hollow, east of the camp. On Saturday and Sunday mornings between May and September, bones are laid out and the vultures come down to feast.

   There’s also an abundance of black eagles, Cape vultures, martial, longcrested and crowned eagles, peregine and lanner falcons, yellowbilled and blackshouldered kites and three species of harrier.

   The grasslands support grass warblers, francolins, qails and longclaws, while in the forests you may spot one of five species of owl, woodpecke or robin.

   Feasting of the nectar of proteas which grace the slopes are a procession of multicolored sunbirds, and the less conspicuous sugarbird. Along the rivers you’ll see the beautiful malachite kingfisher eyeing the waterways for a tasty morsel, or the longtailed widow.

   The immediate vicinity of the hutted camp provides ideal birdwatching oppertunities, especially in spring and summer, when dozens of species start nesting among the undergrowth and trees and the air is alive with birdsong.





WHERE TO STAY


   There are two main hutted camps: Giant’s Castle Camp in the south, and the Injasuthi Camp on the northern border of the reserve.

   Visitors walking the longer trails that radiate from Giant’s Castle Camp, may overnight at anyone of the mountain huts. Do enquire at the reserve reception as the huts are permanently vandalized by Basotho’s from Lesotho.




LEGACY OF THE SAN


   The Giant’s  Castle area used to be the exclusive  domain of the San, known as hunter-gatherers. For centuries they occupied the caves and crevices of Giant’s Castle’s mountain ramparts in summer, vacating these in winter to hunt eland and other antelope in the valleys.

   The San community here is believed to have numbered no more than a few hundred. The arrival of the Nguni and European settlers in the 19th century seriously threatened the livelyhood of the San and eventually they were decimated.


   However, they left behind a rich legacy – more than 50 known sites and 5000 individual examples of San rock art. The best places to view these paintings are at Main Caves, where there are 546 individual paintings, and at Battle Cave in the Injasuthi Valley, north of the reserve. (750 paintings)

   Other artifacts include metal and stone arrowheads, and bone fragments of animals and the San themselves.





MAIN CAVES SITE MUSEUM
   A former San shelter 2 km southwest of the rest camp has been converted into a fascinating museum exhibiting lifelike San models, artefacts of tools and weapons, an open hearth and clothes worn by the San.





WALKS AND TRAILS


   From the Main Camp there are at least 20 lovely day walks, ranging from 3 km to 26 km. Among them are the walks to:

  • ·        Col. Durnford’s Camp, the Main Caves and the Bushman Museum (3,2 km; 2 hrs.).
  • ·        Main Caves Forest (5 km; 2 hrs.). This route passes through a beautiful forest, bypassing San paintings and clear, deep pools. Take your bathing costume with.
  • ·        Bergview Walk (5 km; 2 hrs.). This ramble offers some of the best views of the Drakensberg at Giant’s Castle.
  • ·        Giant’s Castle Pass and Giant’s Castle (19 k; 8 hrs). A fairly tough climb takes you to the edge of the escarpment for breathtaking views of the reserve.
  • ·        Langalibbalele Pass (26 km; 8 hrs). An historically fascinating walk, which takes hikers past the graves of British soldiers and local tribesman who were killed during an engagement at the top of the pass in the Langalibalele Rebellion of 1873.




FISHING


   The rivers and streams of the Drakensberg teem with brown and rainbow trout, and the Giant’s Castle area, particurlarly the Injasuthi River, is no exception. Fishing permits are obtainable from the camps and are renewable on a daily basis.




The End.


Safe Hiking.
 



 Willem Pelser – The Mountain Man






References and Acknowledgements

PhotosWillem Pelser

Wild Places of Southern Africa – Tim O’Hagen

Compiled by - W Pelser







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