FLOWERS OF THE DRAKENSBERG WILDERNESS

Quathlamba

“A mass of Spears. Named thus by the Zulu warriors before the white man came. Today called the Drakensberg, Mountains of the Dragon, a name given by the Voortrekkers. Evocative names, both equally applicable to South Africa’s mightiest mountain range with its spear-like peaks – reminiscent of the saw-toothed spine of a gigantic dragon.”

Panorama April 1966

This blog is all about the Drakensberg Mountains and its Wilderness area, South Africa. I have lost my heart and soul to this area and every single time I hike these mountains, I stand in awe all over again at this magnificent beauty.

“Listen to the streams as they gurgle from their cradles and you will hear the story of the mountains. You will hear fascinating tales if only you listen! Lie next to a stream and listen to the song of the mountains. The smiling faces of the flowers, dancing in the wind. Venture into the remote valleys or stand on a peak at sunrise or sunset, after snow has fallen, and you will hear a song that you will never forget - the Song of the High Mountain". (DA Dodds)

Hiking adventures, hiking gear reviews, day walks, accommodation, books, articles and photos, all related to these magnificent mountains will feature here.

Should you want to accompany me on a hike, or need some information or advice, please make contact with me. I hope you enjoy the articles.

Please visit the archive for some more interesting stories, photos and reviews.

Please note that all photos on this blog are copyright protected. If you would like to obtain

Photos please make contact with the author, Willem Pelser.

“GO OUT ALONE ON THE HILLS AND LISTEN,

YOU WILL HEAR MUCH,

THE WIND AND THE STREAMS TELLS STORIES,

ALONE AMIDST NATURE,

A MAN LEARNS TO BE ONE WITH ALL AND ALL WITH ONE”

FLOWERS OF THE DRAKENSBERG

WILDERNESS

   The Drakensberg and its Wilderness is a forbidding, awe-inspiring territory caught amongst the mist and clouds of basalt peaks where waterfalls turn to columns of ice in winter. Long familiar to herdsmen and mountaineers, the area is largely inaccessible and still considered terra incognita by botanists.

   The plants may differ with every fold of the mountains, with every change in altitude, aspect, drainage, from one valley or peak to the next, clinging to cracks in rock faces, taking hold in basalt gravels or floating in shallow rock pools on the summit.

   The dramatic broken landscape of the escarpment and the harsh climatic conditions on the highlands of Lesotho account for the remarkable diverse plant life with about 2200 species and almost 400 endemics (plants found only in this area and nowhere else in the world).

   The flora of these high mountains has been recognized as one of the world’s ‘hot spots’, a centre of plant diversity of global botanical importance.

   Although the interior is exposed and windswept, its marshes, mires and sponges are the watershed of southern Africa, giving rise to rivers that flow to two oceanopposite sides of the continent, the Atlantic and the Indian.

   The summit of the Drakensberg, which averages an altitude of 3000m, forms an almost inaccessible boundary between Lesotho and South Africa, with sheer cliffs falling 1200m in places. This beautiful area can be very bleak until the plants respond to rain and warm summer temperatures with a burst of colour, flowers carpeting the sheet rock and marshy ground on the summit.

The grasslands can be transformed into fields of flowers in response to fires, often started as a result of lightning (the area has the highest strike rate in southern Africa). People also use fire to bring on new grass for grazing.

   May of the Drakensberg and Lesotho plants are already well known to gardeners in the northern hemisphere. Some were introduced to horticulture in Britain and Europe by intrepid explorers and collectors as long ago as the late 1800’s. Although mostly unknown in gardens of southern Africa, many plants are popular and available to gardeners in Europe, Britain, USA and Japan, while horticultural hybrids and cultivars abound.

A note of caution to both the professional and the amateur plant collector – feast on these plants with your eyes and your senses only. Growing them can be difficult and, more importantly, they are protected by the nature conservation laws of South Africa. You may not collect plants without a permit.

   In 2000, the uKhahlamba-Drakensberg area was proclaimed a World Heritage Site for its rich diversity of plant and animal life, spectacular natural landscape and outstanding San rock paintings. Africa’s greatest concentration of rock art is to be found in the caves and overhangs of these mountains, with more than 600 recorded sites containing over 40000 images. The area is recognized as one of the world’s few sites that meets the criteria for both natural and cultural properties.

   The region was formed by massive volcanic activity in the Jurassic period resulting in basalt lavas covering most of the plateau and the upper face of the escarpment with dolerite intrusions. It overlays the softer Cave Sandstone which is exposed as cliffs and overhangs below the escarpment and in great wind-sculpted boulders in the south.

   The soils are black, very rich; thin on the summit plateau, deeper on the foothills. In summer the soils on the summit are often waterlogged. In winter they freeze every night. The freeze and thaw heaves the soil and stones making it an unstable habitat for plants. This activity also causes the crescent-shaped scars on the mountain slopes lower down.

   The friend of nature who wants to get to know and experience the region at its best, must come here high or late summer when the richly coloured splendour of flowers unfolds most abundantly, then, like the Cape Flats in spring, this stunning and melancholy land, too, resembles a lovely garden, a more beautiful one than could hardly be imagined.

The End.

Safe Hiking.

References and Acknowledgements

Photos – W Pelser

Compiled by - W Pelser – Information from “Mountain Flowers – Elsa Pooley”.

WALKING SKILLS IN THE WILDERNESS

Quathlamba

“A mass of Spears. Named thus by the Zulu warriors before the white man came. Today called the Drakensberg, Mountains of the Dragon, a name given by the Voortrekkers. Evocative names, both equally applicable to South Africa’s mightiest mountain range with its spear-like peaks – reminiscent of the saw-toothed spine of a gigantic dragon.”

Panorama April 1966

This blog is all about the Drakensberg Mountains and its Wilderness area, South Africa. I have lost my heart and soul to this area and every single time I hike these mountains, I stand in awe all over again at this magnificent beauty.

“Listen to the streams as they gurgle from their cradles and you will hear the story of the mountains. You will hear fascinating tales if only you listen! Lie next to a stream and listen to the song of the mountains. The smiling faces of the flowers, dancing in the wind. Venture into the remote valleys or stand on a peak at sunrise or sunset, after snow has fallen, and you will hear a song that you will never forget - the Song of the High Mountain". (DA Dodds)

Hiking adventures, hiking gear reviews, day walks, accommodation, books, articles and photos, all related to these magnificent mountains will feature here.

Should you want to accompany me on a hike, or need some information or advice, please make contact with me. I hope you enjoy the articles.

Please visit the archive for some more interesting stories, photos and reviews.

Please note that all photos on this blog are copyright protected. If you would like to obtain

Photos please make contact with the author, Willem Pelser.

“TRAILS ARE NOT DUST AND PEBBLES ON A HILL

NOR EVEN GRASS AND WILD BUDS BY A LAKE

TRAILS ARE ADVENTURE AND A HAND TO STILL THE RESTLESS PULSE OF LIFE”

WALKING SKILLS IN THE

WILDERNESS

  

How hard can it be to put one foot in front of another until you get to the top of the hill? And then reverse the process on the way down? Well, that might be the case if we were climbing to the 19^th floor, but in the wilderness country the terrain, the exposure and the altitude can all conspire to make your journey a little more taxing. With a bit of thought though, you can prepare your body and mind to deal with the conditions that you are likely to encounter in the wilderness.

Make efficient ascents

   However fit you are, the speed of your summit bid is dictated by how out of puff you get. Teach yourself to breathe efficiently and your performance on the hill will improve.

Mastering the correct technique then training the right muscles is straightforward, but the results are impressive: a fit athlete trained to breathe efficiently will be capable of breathing a maximum 350 liters of air per minute; the average couch potato mages a maximum level of just 50 to 60 liters per minute. So if you only act on one snip of advice, choose this one: it’ll make walking uphill a whole lot easier.

One

   First, you need to understand how you breathe. Lie on the ground and place one hand flat on your stomach and the other across your chest. Relax and breathe normally. Now, which hand moves most? Most of us find that the chest hand wins the contest. This means that you are contracting and expanding your rib cage muscles to pump air in and out of your lungs. These muscles are just like most other muscles in your body: work them hard and they will get tired.

Two

   Try the exercise again, taking deeper breaths so your chest hand stays still and the hand on your stomach moves up and down. Breathing like this also uses your diaphragm. This muscle is unique: it contains an almost equal level of fast-twitch fibres (for short duration power) and slow-twitch fibres (for endurance). This means it’s more resistant to fatigue: take deep breaths using your diaphragm when you are walking uphill and you can breathe harder for longer. The result? Far fewer rest-stops to catch your breath.

Three

  But we’re not finished yet. Lie down again, relax and think about what takes the most effort: inhaling or exhaling. Average humans among you will report that breathing in requires the most energy. So try this: take a deep breath and concentrate on exhaling instead, emptying all air from your lungs. You’ll find that your body now automatically triggers another breath: go with the flow and let your lungs be filled with air – it requires much less effort.

Four

   Try breathing in through your nose: this warms the air before it hits your lungs, so it’s less likely to trigger an asthma attack. Now breathe out through pursed lips. This creates a level of back pressure, which keep the alveoli open as you exhale, enabling them to continue extracting oxygen for a fraction longer.

Five

   The muscles you use to breathe are just like the others in your body: train them and they’ll get stronger. Now you won’t master this technique overnight – after all, you’ve some pretty ingrained breathing habits to break – but the more that you practice, the more natural it will seem and the stronger those muscles will become. Any exercise requiring you to breathe hard will help your performance in the wilderness.

Stand straight, Walk further

   If your hands are free, keep them that way. On the hill, arms are for balance: and if your posture is correct, they will swing freely at your side and do this job just fine. Holding on to your backpack straps, clasped behind your back and in your pockets are unnatural positions that impede circulation, resulting in swelling or uncomfortable pins and needles. Your arms should be bent at a 90-degree angle when walking, but in practice 50-60 degrees is fine.

   Many boot manufacturers design their soles to reflect the expected foot movement: the Scarpa SL for instance, has a markedly curved sole to role the foot heel-to-toe as you walk; the smoother your step, the less wear on your shins and ankles, so aim to hit the ground with your heel, roll forwards onto the ball of your foot, then push off from there.

Avoid looking at the floor unless you are on dangerous ground. Keep your head up and towards the horizon at its natural angle; allowing the strong vertebrae to absorb impact and bear the weight of your head which, averaging about 8 per cent of your bodyweight is a deceptively hefty burden. If you want proof, relax your neck muscles and gently let your head slump forwards – feel the back of your neck burning? That’s muscle being stretched by the weight of your head.

  ‘Sway-back’ is an unnatural arch in the in the lower back; it’s common when descending, compounded by a heavy pack, and truly agonizing over long distances. Tense your abdominal muscles, pull in your stomach and clench your buttocks – this puts your pelvis into a more ‘neutral’ position and places your back into a strong posture. Apply this technique on the hill and feel the difference.

   The first thing to remember is to stick to shorter, comfortable strides – overstretching can strain your quads, hamstring tendons and calves, and you will feel pulling in the back of the leg and calf if your strides are too long.

   When descending a rocky path, be careful to keep descent steps small so as to not overstretch. Try to position your knee in line with your second toe as you step.

The End.

Safe Hiking.

References and Acknowledgements

Photos – W Pelser – Injasuthi Wilderness - Drakensberg

Compiled by - W Pelser – Information – The Ultimate Hiking Skills by A Hinkes & C                            Bagshaw

COBHAM WILDERNESS - DRAKENSBERG

Quathlamba

“A mass of Spears. Named thus by the Zulu warriors before the white man came. Today called the Drakensberg, Mountains of the Dragon, a name given by the Voortrekkers. Evocative names, both equally applicable to South Africa’s mightiest mountain range with its spear-like peaks – reminiscent of the saw-toothed spine of a gigantic dragon.”

Panorama April 1966

This blog is all about the Drakensberg Mountains and its Wilderness area, South Africa. I have lost my heart and soul to this area and every single time I hike these mountains, I stand in awe all over again at this magnificent beauty.

“Listen to the streams as they gurgle from their cradles and you will hear the story of the mountains. You will hear fascinating tales if only you listen! Lie next to a stream and listen to the song of the mountains. The smiling faces of the flowers, dancing in the wind. Venture into the remote valleys or stand on a peak at sunrise or sunset, after snow has fallen, and you will hear a song that you will never forget - the Song of the High Mountain". (DA Dodds)

Hiking adventures, hiking gear reviews, day walks, accommodation, books, articles and photos, all related to these magnificent mountains will feature here.

Should you want to accompany me on a hike, or need some information or advice, please make contact with me. I hope you enjoy the articles.

Please visit the archive for some more interesting stories, photos and reviews.

Please note that all photos on this blog are copyright protected. If you would like to obtain

Photos please make contact with the author, Willem Pelser.

“WHEN WE REACH THE WILDERNESS AND THE MOUNTAIN SUMMITS,

WE LEAVE BEHIND US ALL THE THINGS THAT WEIGH HEAVILY ON OUR BODY AND OUR SPIRIT”

COBHAM WILDERNESS

DRAKENSBERG

LOCATION

Follow the N3 freeway, taking the R617 (to Bulwer and Underberg). Stay on the R617 through Boston, Bulwer into Underberg. In Underberg turn right onto the R315 to Himeville. As you enter Himeville turn left onto the D7. The turnoff is sign boarded “Cobham”. Follow this gravel road for 13 km to the Cobham entrance gate. The route is clearly marked.

OVERVIEW

Amongst the major attractions of the Drakensberg are the many opportunities it offers for the walker, both the dedicated hiker and for the more occasional enthusiast. There is nothing more invigorating than the fresh Berg air breathed in on top of a ridge. The reserve is managed with Vergelegen to form one management section of the Maloti-Drakensberg Park of approximately 52 000 ha in extent.

Many delightful walks and climbs may be undertaken and there are hiking trails to suit all ages.

Thunderstorms are a common occurrence during the summer months and visitors are warned of the dangers of lightning. It is advisable to carry warm clothing at all times. At these altitudes nights are cool in summer and very cold in winter. Wildlife to be seen includes species such as common and mountain reedbuck, grey rhebuck, eland, duiker, oribi, jackal and baboon. There is a large diversity of birds which includes Bearded Vulture, Cape Vulture, Black Eagle, Black Stork and Malachite Sunbirds, to name but a few.

Fires are prohibited except in designated areas, because of the hazards of veld fires and visitors are reminded that all refuse must be brought back to camp for disposal. Although chilly, swimming in the rivers is safe unless it is in flood and there are numerous good swimming spots near the campsite. Trips to visit rock art under the guidance of a qualified guide is available, enquire at reception.

The Drakensberg is a large area and for the most part not signposted. Don’t be over ambitious, plan your walk to suit your reserves of energy. Don’t take short cuts where paths zig zag, as this will cause major erosion and destruction of the environment.

CLIMATE

The weather is subject to change at short notice and hikers should be well equipped and fill in their details in the Mountain Rescue Register.

Always take time to fill in the Mountain Rescue Register correctly and in detail. Be sure to report your safe return by signing back in the mountain rescue register.

Walk in sensible shoes to protect your feet.

Please note that litterbugs are not protected in the reserves.

Do not be so nasty as to leave your name or any message on any rocks or trees, especially on Bushman Paintings.

ACCOMMODATION 

The campsite at Cobham is an open area where visitors can put up tents or caravans anywhere in the designated area. The campsite is rustic with eight toilets and four hot water showers. No electrical points are available in the campsite.

There are nine different caves throughout the reserve which can accommodate overnight hikers. These caves vary in size, sleeping between two and twelve people. Parties hiking into the wilderness are limited to twelve people. All caves within the Cobham area are situated within the wilderness area. Caves must be booked and reserved in advance through the Cobham office.

  

CAVES IN THE WILDERNESS AREA

Cobham has a wide variety of caves situated in the mountains ranging in size and distance from the camp. It is advisable to purchase a proper hiking map from the curio shop before departure. All the caves are situated close to water and may even have water dripping from the roof in summer. The maximum number of people a cave can accommodate overnight is given in brackets along with the approximate distance in km and the time that an average hiker will take to walk there. It is not advised to leave equipment unattended anywhere in the Park as illegal drug smugglers and cattle rustlers could come across your equipment and steal it.

Gxaligenwa Cave (12) 13 km – 4 Hours

From the Cobham Office it is a moderate to fair walk up Emerald Stream valley, Emerald Stream is a meandering stream with many delightful pools to swim in and relax on route. Walk past Pinnacle Rocks to a junction in the path and then go left and up the Gxaligenwa valley. The cave is situated opposite a forest patch with a beautiful and distinctive pool on the south side of the river.

Gorge Cave (2) 14 km – 4.5 Hours

Follow the Pholela River up to Junction Shelter, keep right and go upstream into the Pholela valley, pass through a forest patch. Continue until the river branches off to the right and keep a lookout for the cave above the river in the sandstone base.

Spectacle Cave (12) 14 km – 4.5 Hours

This cave is situated at the meeting point of all the tributaries flowing into the Pholela River and is not far from Gorge Cave. Follow the Pholela River into Pholela valley and at the tributary meeting point climb left, up into the sandstone ridge above the river. Both Spectacle and Gorge Cave are used as a base camp when climbing Hodgson’s Peaks (Giant’s Cup) by overnighting in one of the two caves. At first light the next morning you can climb the peaks and return that afternoon to your basecamp in one of the caves.

Pholela Cave (12) 15 km – 5 Hours

Pholela cave is situated in the Pholela valley, about 1 km from Spectacle and Gorge caves. Follow the Pholela River to Spectacle cave and where the streams meet, veer left, following a tributary for about 1 km and look for the cave in the sandstone base above the river on your right hand side.

Nutcracker Cave (6) 10 km – 3 Hours

This cave overlooks the Nhlabeni valley and is one of the shorter walks. Follow the Pholela River and turn left at the junction of the Nhlabeni River (known as Shelter Rock on the hiking maps) and the Pholela rivers. Continue up the Nhlabeni River for about 2 km and look for the cave in the sandstone base on your left. The cave is situated along a major tributary and is partly screened by bushes and trees.

Lakes Cave (12) 12.5 km – 4 Hours

Also situated in the Nhlabeni valley, only 2.5 km beyond Nutcracker cave. A distinctive pool close to the cave makes this a popular spot. On the right side of the valley opposite the cave is Camel rocks.

Weaver Cave (12) 16 km – 5Hours

Weaver cave is situated next to one of the tributaries of the Mzimkhulwana River, with good views of the valley. Following the National Hiking Way and then continue up the Mzimkhulwana River for about 6 km. The cave is situated up a prominent tributary on the north side of the river.

Venice Caves (4) 18 km – 8 Hours

Two caves on either side of the Mzimkhulwana River, with a lovely pool about a kilometre from the caves. Follow the path up the Mzimkhulwana valley and veer right once the path splits next to ‘The Island”.

Chameleon Cave (12) 18 km – 8 Hours

This is only 1 km away from Venice cave, but can be reached without passing Venice cave if you stay on the path passing The Island and not veer off to the right.

Remember to fill in the Mountain Rescue Register if you intend to visit any of the above caves.

ACTIVITIES

Hiking

The most popular activity is overnight hiking and day walks. These walks afford views of incomparable scenery. Most of the day hikes is well marked and maintained in the reserve. Maps, hike descriptions and books are available at the visitor centre. Visitors are urged to leave information of their expected hiking routes with friends or at the visitors centre, in case the need for help may arise. 

 

Popular hikes are listed below:

Giant’s Cup Hiking Trail

This trail meanders along the foothills of the Little Berg from Sani Pass to Bushman’s Neck. Some sections are steep but a reasonably fit person, including children, will have no difficulty in completing each section. The trail lies almost entirely within the Cobham and Garden Castle reserves. Small patches of fores are seen on the first day, but most of the trail passes through mountain grassland with wide views to the crests of the mountains. Hikers are accommodated in mountain huts along the way. The trail takes 5 days to complete and covers 60 km in total. Each day averages about 12 km.

 

Gxaligenwa River Trail

It follows the Gxaligenwa River and passes alongside patches of magnificent indigenous forests. There are numerous pools to swim in and at one point there is a beautiful waterfall with a deep pool at its base. It’s an easy route and three hours should be allowed to enjoy nature at its best.

  

Ouhout Trail

This trail starts from below the campsite just as you leave the campsite demarcated area. A rock sign will be found on the left side of the path indicating the start of the trail. Walk for about 200 m to where the path joins the main lakes cave path, follow the rock sign indicating the route to your right. Walk for about 55 m to yet another junction where the rock sign will indicate the Ouhout trail to the right. Walk for 24 m and cross a small stream by means of stepping stones. Continue for about 1 km passing through Ouhout forest. There are places along the path that come close to the river where you can leave the path to view the river. At the trail end turn left at the junction to complete the loop back to the campsite, or you can extend your walk by going right at the junction and doing the Pholela River trial. Allow 30 minutes to an hour to complete the loop.

 Pholela River Trial

The trail leaves the camp and follows the Pholela River for approximately for 15 km. It offers spectacular views of the Giant’s Cup and passes through grasslands, patches of forest and towards the upper reaches of the Pholela. There are interesting geological formations that tower over the river. The gradient is fairly flat and this is a very easy walk. It must be remembered that one will have to return along the same path. There are a number of large pools in which one can swim.

Emerald Stream Trial

After leaving Cobham, along the Pholela River, the trail to Emerald Stream branches off and heads up along the Emerald Stream valley. The trail follows the valley between Ndlovini Mountain and Emerald Dome. If one continuous for approximately 8 km a large flat plateau is reached with magnificent views in all directions. Another 2 km of walking along the plateau will bring you to Pinnacle Rock. This trail is normally good for game viewing. If you are energetic, you can leave the trail and walk around the base of Ndlovini and join up with the Hiking Way Trail above Ngenwa Pools. It is then a further 8 km back to Cobham. If the circular route around Ndlovini is not completed, one has to return along Emerald Stream to Cobham. A full day should be set aside to enjoy the route.

 

Troutbeck Loop

Troutbeck loop is approximately 7 km in length and in sections fairly steep. From the campsite cross the swing bridge and walk along the Pholela River for 500 m and take the left junction at the rock sign. Follow the trail into the Troutbeck valley.  Troutbeck valley can be identified by the dolerite sill on the right of the river and the three river crossings within the small gorge that forms the valley. The trail exits the small gorge and then loops around crossing open grassland. This is the same trail as the “Giant’s Cup” hiking trail. Turn right at a rock sign junction at the base of a small cliff line with yellowwood trees and large rocks. The trail now leaves the Giant’s Cup trail and goes down the hill back to the campsite. There is a small waterfall along the route with a deep pool at its base which is suitable for swimming. Three to four hours should be set aside for this route.

Picnics

Picnics can be held anywhere along the beautiful Pholela River.

FACILITIES

The shop at reception is stocked with curios and supplies.

The nearest town which has a full range of services is Himeville and Underberg which is 13-20 kms away.

Bookings

Cobham Reservations

P.O. Box 168

Himeville

3256

 

 

Tel:  (033) 702 0831

Fax:  (033) 702 0171

Pholela Hut and Giant’s Cup Trail 

Email: bookings@kznwildlife.com

Website: www.kznwildlife.com

Campsites and caves are booked directly through the camp.

The End.

 Safe Hiking.

References and Acknowledgements

Photos – W Pelser

Compiled by - W Pelser – Information supplied by Ezemvelo KZN Wildlife