Quathlamba
“A
mass of Spears. Named thus by the Zulu warriors before the white man came.
Today called the Drakensberg, Mountains of the Dragon, a name given by the
Voortrekkers. Evocative names, both equally applicable to South Africa’s
mightiest mountain range with its spear-like peaks – reminiscent of the
saw-toothed spine of a gigantic dragon.”
Panorama April 1966
“Listen to the streams as they gurgle from their cradles and you will hear the story of the mountains. You will hear fascinating tales if only you listen! Lie next to a stream and listen to the song of the mountains. The smiling faces of the flowers, dancing in the wind. Venture into the remote valleys or stand on a peak at sunrise or sunset, after snow has fallen, and you will hear a song that you will never forget - the Song of the High Mountain". (DA Dodds)
Hiking adventures, hiking gear reviews, day walks, accommodation, books, articles and photos, all related to these magnificent mountains will feature here.
Should you want to accompany me on a hike, or need some information or advice, please make contact with me. I hope you enjoy the articles.
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“WHEN WE REACH THE WILDERNESS AND THE MOUNTAIN SUMMITS,
WE LEAVE BEHIND US ALL THE THINGS THAT WEIGH HEAVILY ON OUR
BODY AND OUR SPIRIT”
COBHAM
WILDERNESS
DRAKENSBERG
LOCATION
Follow the N3 freeway,
taking the R617 (to Bulwer and Underberg). Stay on the R617 through Boston,
Bulwer into Underberg. In Underberg turn right onto the R315 to Himeville. As
you enter Himeville turn left onto the D7. The turnoff is sign boarded
“Cobham”. Follow this gravel road for 13 km to the Cobham entrance gate. The
route is clearly marked.
OVERVIEW
Amongst the major
attractions of the Drakensberg are the many opportunities it offers for the
walker, both the dedicated hiker and for the more occasional enthusiast. There
is nothing more invigorating than the fresh Berg air breathed in on top of a
ridge. The reserve is managed with Vergelegen to form one management section of
the Maloti-Drakensberg Park of approximately 52 000 ha in extent.
Many delightful walks and
climbs may be undertaken and there are hiking trails to suit all ages.
Thunderstorms are a common
occurrence during the summer months and visitors are warned of the dangers of
lightning. It is advisable to carry warm clothing at all times. At these
altitudes nights are cool in summer and very cold in winter. Wildlife to be
seen includes species such as common and mountain reedbuck, grey rhebuck,
eland, duiker, oribi, jackal and baboon. There is a large diversity of birds
which includes Bearded Vulture, Cape Vulture, Black Eagle, Black Stork and
Malachite Sunbirds, to name but a few.
Fires are prohibited except
in designated areas, because of the hazards of veld fires and visitors are
reminded that all refuse must be brought back to camp for disposal. Although
chilly, swimming in the rivers is safe unless it is in flood and there are
numerous good swimming spots near the campsite. Trips to visit rock art under
the guidance of a qualified guide is available, enquire at reception.
The Drakensberg is a large
area and for the most part not signposted. Don’t be over ambitious, plan your
walk to suit your reserves of energy. Don’t take short cuts where paths zig
zag, as this will cause major erosion and destruction of the environment.
CLIMATE
The weather is subject to
change at short notice and hikers should be well equipped and fill in their
details in the Mountain Rescue Register.
Always take time to fill in
the Mountain Rescue Register correctly and in detail. Be sure to report your
safe return by signing back in the mountain rescue register.
Walk in sensible shoes to
protect your feet.
Please note that litterbugs
are not protected in the reserves.
Do not be so nasty as to
leave your name or any message on any rocks or trees, especially on Bushman
Paintings.
ACCOMMODATION
The campsite
at Cobham is an open area where visitors can put up tents or caravans anywhere
in the designated area. The campsite is rustic with eight toilets and four hot
water showers. No electrical points are available in the campsite.
There are
nine different caves throughout the reserve which can accommodate overnight
hikers. These caves vary in size, sleeping between two and twelve people.
Parties hiking into the wilderness are limited to twelve people. All caves
within the Cobham area are situated within the wilderness area. Caves must be
booked and reserved in advance through the Cobham office.
CAVES IN THE
WILDERNESS AREA
Cobham has a wide variety
of caves situated in the mountains ranging in size and distance from the camp.
It is advisable to purchase a proper hiking map from the curio shop before
departure. All the caves are situated close to water and may even have water
dripping from the roof in summer. The maximum number of people a cave can
accommodate overnight is given in brackets along with the approximate distance
in km and the time that an average hiker will take to walk there. It is not
advised to leave equipment unattended anywhere in the Park as illegal drug
smugglers and cattle rustlers could come across your equipment and steal it.
Gxaligenwa Cave (12) 13 km – 4 Hours
From the Cobham Office it
is a moderate to fair walk up Emerald Stream valley, Emerald Stream is a
meandering stream with many delightful pools to swim in and relax on route.
Walk past Pinnacle Rocks to a junction in the path and then go left and up the
Gxaligenwa valley. The cave is situated opposite a forest patch with a
beautiful and distinctive pool on the south side of the river.
Gorge Cave (2) 14 km – 4.5 Hours
Follow the Pholela River up
to Junction Shelter, keep right and go upstream into the Pholela valley, pass
through a forest patch. Continue until the river branches off to the right and
keep a lookout for the cave above the river in the sandstone base.
Spectacle Cave (12) 14 km – 4.5
Hours
This cave is situated at
the meeting point of all the tributaries flowing into the Pholela River and is
not far from Gorge Cave. Follow the Pholela River into Pholela valley and at
the tributary meeting point climb left, up into the sandstone ridge above the
river. Both Spectacle and Gorge Cave are used as a base camp when climbing
Hodgson’s Peaks (Giant’s Cup) by overnighting in one of the two caves. At first
light the next morning you can climb the peaks and return that afternoon to
your basecamp in one of the caves.
Pholela Cave (12) 15 km – 5 Hours
Pholela cave is situated in
the Pholela valley, about 1 km from Spectacle and Gorge caves. Follow the
Pholela River to Spectacle cave and where the streams meet, veer left,
following a tributary for about 1 km and look for the cave in the sandstone
base above the river on your right hand side.
Nutcracker Cave (6) 10 km – 3 Hours
This cave overlooks the
Nhlabeni valley and is one of the shorter walks. Follow the Pholela River and
turn left at the junction of the Nhlabeni River (known as Shelter Rock on the
hiking maps) and the Pholela rivers. Continue up the Nhlabeni River for about 2
km and look for the cave in the sandstone base on your left. The cave is
situated along a major tributary and is partly screened by bushes and trees.
Lakes Cave (12) 12.5 km – 4 Hours
Also situated in the
Nhlabeni valley, only 2.5 km beyond Nutcracker cave. A distinctive pool close
to the cave makes this a popular spot. On the right side of the valley opposite
the cave is Camel rocks.
Weaver Cave (12) 16 km – 5Hours
Weaver cave is situated
next to one of the tributaries of the Mzimkhulwana River, with good views of
the valley. Following the National Hiking Way and then continue up the
Mzimkhulwana River for about 6 km. The cave is situated up a prominent
tributary on the north side of the river.
Venice Caves (4) 18 km – 8 Hours
Two caves on either side of
the Mzimkhulwana River, with a lovely pool about a kilometre from the caves.
Follow the path up the Mzimkhulwana valley and veer right once the path splits
next to ‘The Island”.
Chameleon Cave (12) 18 km – 8 Hours
This is only 1 km away from
Venice cave, but can be reached without passing Venice cave if you stay on the
path passing The Island and not veer off to the right.
Remember to fill in the Mountain Rescue Register
if you intend to visit any of the above caves.
ACTIVITIES
Hiking
The most popular activity
is overnight hiking and day walks. These walks afford views of incomparable
scenery. Most of the day hikes is well marked and maintained in the reserve.
Maps, hike descriptions and books are available at the visitor centre. Visitors
are urged to leave information of their expected hiking routes with friends or
at the visitors centre, in case the need for help may arise.
Popular hikes are listed
below:
Giant’s Cup Hiking Trail
This trail meanders along
the foothills of the Little Berg from Sani Pass to Bushman’s Neck. Some
sections are steep but a reasonably fit person, including children, will have
no difficulty in completing each section. The trail lies almost entirely within
the Cobham and Garden Castle reserves. Small patches of fores are seen on the
first day, but most of the trail passes through mountain grassland with wide
views to the crests of the mountains. Hikers are accommodated in mountain huts
along the way. The trail takes 5 days to complete and covers 60 km in total.
Each day averages about 12 km.
Gxaligenwa River Trail
It follows the Gxaligenwa
River and passes alongside patches of magnificent indigenous forests. There are
numerous pools to swim in and at one point there is a beautiful waterfall with
a deep pool at its base. It’s an easy route and three hours should be allowed
to enjoy nature at its best.
Ouhout Trail
This trail starts from
below the campsite just as you leave the campsite demarcated area. A rock sign
will be found on the left side of the path indicating the start of the trail.
Walk for about 200 m to where the path joins the main lakes cave path, follow
the rock sign indicating the route to your right. Walk for about 55 m to yet
another junction where the rock sign will indicate the Ouhout trail to the
right. Walk for 24 m and cross a small stream by means of stepping stones.
Continue for about 1 km passing through Ouhout forest. There are places along
the path that come close to the river where you can leave the path to view the
river. At the trail end turn left at the junction to complete the loop back to
the campsite, or you can extend your walk by going right at the junction and
doing the Pholela River trial. Allow 30 minutes to an hour to complete the
loop.
Pholela River Trial
The trail leaves the camp
and follows the Pholela River for approximately for 15 km. It offers
spectacular views of the Giant’s Cup and passes through grasslands, patches of
forest and towards the upper reaches of the Pholela. There are interesting
geological formations that tower over the river. The gradient is fairly flat
and this is a very easy walk. It must be remembered that one will have to
return along the same path. There are a number of large pools in which one can
swim.
Emerald Stream Trial
After leaving Cobham, along
the Pholela River, the trail to Emerald Stream branches off and heads up along
the Emerald Stream valley. The trail follows the valley between Ndlovini
Mountain and Emerald Dome. If one continuous for approximately 8 km a large flat
plateau is reached with magnificent views in all directions. Another 2 km of
walking along the plateau will bring you to Pinnacle Rock. This trail is
normally good for game viewing. If you are energetic, you can leave the trail
and walk around the base of Ndlovini and join up with the Hiking Way Trail
above Ngenwa Pools. It is then a further 8 km back to Cobham. If the circular
route around Ndlovini is not completed, one has to return along Emerald Stream
to Cobham. A full day should be set aside to enjoy the route.
Troutbeck
Loop
Troutbeck loop is
approximately 7 km in length and in sections fairly steep. From the campsite
cross the swing bridge and walk along the Pholela River for 500 m and take the
left junction at the rock sign. Follow the trail into the Troutbeck valley.
Troutbeck valley can be identified by the dolerite sill on the right of the
river and the three river crossings within the small gorge that forms the
valley. The trail exits the small gorge and then loops around crossing open grassland.
This is the same trail as the “Giant’s Cup” hiking trail. Turn right at a rock
sign junction at the base of a small cliff line with yellowwood trees and large
rocks. The trail now leaves the Giant’s Cup trail and goes down the hill back
to the campsite. There is a small waterfall along the route with a deep pool at
its base which is suitable for swimming. Three to four hours should be set
aside for this route.
Picnics
Picnics can be held
anywhere along the beautiful Pholela River.
FACILITIES
The shop at reception is stocked
with curios and supplies.
The nearest town which has
a full range of services is Himeville and Underberg which is 13-20 kms away.
Bookings
Cobham Reservations
P.O. Box 168
Himeville
3256
Tel: (033) 702 0831
Fax: (033) 702 0171
Pholela Hut and Giant’s Cup
Trail
Email: bookings@kznwildlife.com
Website: www.kznwildlife.com
Campsites and caves are booked
directly through the camp.
The End.
Safe
Hiking.
References and Acknowledgements
Photos – W Pelser
Compiled by - W Pelser – Information supplied by
Ezemvelo KZN Wildlife
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