Tuesday 19 July 2016

CLIMBING CATHEDRAL PEAK - DRAKENSBERG



Quathlamba
“A mass of Spears. Named thus by the Zulu warriors before the white man came. Today called the Drakensberg, Mountains of the Dragon, a name given by the Voortrekkers. Evocative names, both equally applicable to South Africa’s mightiest mountain range with its spear-like peaks – reminiscent of the saw-toothed spine of a gigantic dragon.”


Panorama April 1966




This blog is all about the Drakensberg Mountains and its Wilderness area, South Africa. I have lost my heart and soul to this area and every single time I hike these mountains, I stand in awe all over again at this magnificent beauty.

“Listen to the streams as they gurgle from their cradles and you will hear the story of the mountains. You will hear fascinating tales if only you listen! Lie next to a stream and listen to the song of the mountains. The smiling faces of the flowers, dancing in the wind. Venture into the remote valleys or stand on a peak at sunrise or sunset, after snow has fallen, and you will hear a song that you will never forget - the Song of the High Mountain". (DA Dodds)

Hiking adventures, hiking gear reviews, day walks, accommodation, books, articles and photos, all related to these magnificent mountains will feature here.

Should you want to accompany me on a hike, or need some information or advice, please make contact with me. I hope you enjoy the articles.

Please visit the archive for some more interesting stories, photos and reviews.

Please note that all photos on this blog are copyright protected. If you would like to obtain
Photos please make contact with the author, Willem Pelser.







NO FEAR DWELLS THERE,
BUT LASTING PEACE SUBLIME,

ENRICHING DOWN ALL THE LENGTHS OF TIMEBrian Godbold









CLIMBING CATHEDRAL PEAK

DRAKENSBERG 


Cathedral Peak towers above the Mlambonja area



   At the end of free-standing peaks that seperates the Mnweni and Mlambonja areas, a final commanding summit rises into the sky before the ridge dissipates towards the surrounding valleys and hills of KZN. This impressive feature, a landmark for miles around, is known to many as Cathedral Peak.

 Due to the peak’s prominent and impressive positioning, this title has become one of the most recognised in the Drakensberg, although history suggests that it is unlikely to be the mountain’s original name. There are two other names: First of these is Mponjwana, meaning “little horn”. The second is Zikhali’s Horn, a title given to the mountain in honour of Zikhali, a prominent chief of the amaNgwane people.

   Zikhali was atribal politician during the reign of the Zulu king Dingane in the early 1800’s. Zikhale’s life was spared when Dingane had his father murdered and the amaNgwane tribe oppressed. When Dingane too was assasinated, Zikhale fled north to Swaziland, taking refuge under the Swazi king. While in Swaziland, Zikhale fell in love with one of the king’s daughters. The king disapproved and once again Zikhale fled for his life. He headed for the mountains and settled in the valleys of the Drakensberg. The king’s daughter followed her lover and together theyestablished their kraal beneath a giant and majestic mountain which became known as Zikhale’s Horn. Zikhale died in 1863, leaving his kingdom to no less than 28 sons.

   Zikhale’s Horn is a elongated peak running from southwest to northeast. The highest point, at 3 004 metres, rises slightly above a long summit ridge at its extreme northeastern edge. Many of the mountain’s faces and ridges are broken with grass slopes seperating cliff faces, although the northern cliffs are steep, unbroke and sheer. The summit ridge gently lessens towards the escarpment, before dropping off sharply in a mass of faces and vertical walls. To date, the faces nearest to its neighbouring summit, Bell, have proved the most challenging to mountaineers and pioneering climbers, although the northern faces have been little explored.




Cathedral Peak and The Bell from the iNtonyelena Valley



   Today the mountain may be easily ascended from the Cathedral Peak Hotel, via Bugger Gully and a scamble over easy rock and grass. This route was first climbed in 1917. The route is non-technical and has a ladder in place near the summit, where the climbing is a little more difficult.

   Cathedral Peak has other more challenging climbs, including a chimney route, as well as a serious aid ascent on the northwest face. Various attempts of the northern deirdre on the peak have to date been singularly unsuccessful, although the line appears to hold great potential, particularly in its upper reaches.

   All climbs are approached from the Cathedral Peak Hotel, leaving virgin ground for the climbing enthusiast on the smooth faces, cliffs and approach valleys on the iNtonyelena side.

   Cathedral Peak is a noble peak, named in honour of an African chief. Kingly it stands today, the defining landmark of one of the most beautiful areas on earth.




Cathedral Peak Routes



1       Original Route
First climbed: 1917
Grade: C

2       Winter’s Route/South West Cimney
First Climbed: 1952
Grade: E

3       North East Ridge
First Climbed: 1958
Grade: E

4       North West Face
First Climbed: 1984
Grade: F3/A1

5       North East Face
First Climbed: 1942
Grade: B

6       South Face
First Climbed: 1948
Grade: D






   Cathedral Peak is approached by the way of good paths and tracks starting at the Cathedral Peak Hotel. From the hotel road, cross the Oqalweni River near some small trout hatcheries. This path continues past Sherman’s Cave and up a steep ridge to thhe top of Orange Peel Gap Gully. The path then traverses to Bugger Gully and the base of the peak’s final basalt cliffs.

   To access route 2 and 4, continue over the top of Bugger Gully and down a loose gully on the other side for about a hundred metres. The path veers off to the right on the steep and exposed grass slopes. This path gives access to the Bell Cave below the south face. There is usually no water after Sherman’s Cave until reaching Bell Cave, where a descent down steep slopes usually leads to small streams heralding water.

   Approach from the iNtonyelena Valley is possible although seldom used. Waterfall Cave on route to the pass is a spectacular bivouac near the main gully leading to the nek between Cathedral Peak and the Bell.



The End.


Safe Hiking.




References and Acknowledgements

PhotosSerpent Spires – D Souchon

From the Book – Serpent Spires – D Souchon

Compiled byWillem Pelser


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