Quathlamba
“A mass of Spears. Named
thus by the Zulu warriors before the white man came. Today called the
Drakensberg, Mountains of the Dragon. Evocative names, both equally applicable
to South Africa’s mightiest mountain range with its spear-like peaks –
reminiscent of the saw-toothed spine of a gigantic dragon.”
“Listen to the streams as they gurgle from their cradles and you will hear
the story of the mountains. You will hear fascinating tales if only you listen!
Lie next to a stream and listen to the song of the mountains. The smiling faces
of the flowers, dancing in the wind. Venture into the remote valleys or stand
on a peak at sunrise or sunset, after snow has fallen, and you will hear a song
that you will never forget - the Song of the High Mountain".
DRAKENSBERG WILDERNESS
PHOTOS © WILLEM PELSER
“EXPLORATION
IS THE FIRST STEP TO WISDOM; IT IS ONLY BY EXPLORING ONE’S EXPECTED LIMITS THAT
ONE BEGINS TO DISCOVER ONE’S TRUE ABILITIES.”
STEVE BROOKS
The Explorers
Steve Brooks
It was January 2003. The previous
year Brooks and fellow pilot Quentin Smith, universally known a Q in the
helicopter world, had flown the Robinson 44 helicopter to the North Pole.
Heading south to Alaska, they had then changed crew, with Brook’s wife joining
her husband for a 20 000 mile, 20 country trip down to Argentina. Q then
rejoined Brooks for the last leg.
Seven hundred feet
above a frothing ocean, with 35 foot waves lashing ominously below them, the
R44 gave a horrifying shudder and vibration, followed by a sudden loss of
power. Ditching was an ordeal even before they touched the water. “I was
watching Steve get ready to jump and thinking not yet, not yet, and he jumped,”
Q recalls. “I thought, that’s it, he’s killed himself.”
Brooks was not ready
to throw in the towel, however unlikely their chances of survival. “I never
once allowed myself to think we wouldn’t get out of this alive. I know people
have died in warmer water in less time than we spent in the dinghy. The
difference can only be in the determination to survive. We just weren’t ready
to die.
Eventually, after 10
hours battling acute seasickness, freezing temperatures, high winds, and waves
that swamped them repeatedly in their dinghy, they were rescued by a Chilean
icebreaker, both men suffering from severe hypothermia.
Many people would have regarded that
near-death experience as a gentle indication from the Almighty that perhaps the
pole-to-pole adventure was not destined to be. Not Brooks. He had a target in
sight. Over Christmas 2004, he and Q rejoined each other for the last leg once
again. This time they were successful. They were praised for their
determination to achieve this extraordinary record. “Those of us who have more
lowly ambitions in our flying lives can only marvel at the achievements of
these people,” said George Done. “They have taken general aviation to the
farthest corners of the earth, and doing so they raise all our sights.”
Whatever the horrors
of ditching in the Drake Passage, Brooks recalls the jaw-dropping grandeur and
the camaraderie of his expedition over the white continent. “Flying in
Antarctica was the ultimate privilege, to land and walk in majestic beauty
where no one had stood before, and to do it time and time again. On trips like
this we are relying on the friendliness and help of others, and Antarctica has
many people on the edge of our known world, both physically and mentally, who
were so supportive.”
Brooks says he
explores because “It makes me feel alive. If you are doing something that is
outside known parameters you are walking a tightrope with no safety net.” His
interest in exploration came from a sort of internal revelation. “One day I had
the realization that man can achieve what he ‘believes’ he can achieve, so I
decided to test my realization by doing something that has never been done
before and discovered decision is the first step to achievement.”
Brooks’ travels have
taken him to more than 100 countries. He scaled Speke Glacier in the mountains
of Uganda and negotiated the Zambezi white-water rapids in a kayak, none of
which represented useful preparation for Ice Challenger, his first significant
expedition, in 2002. The challenge was monumental: to design and then pilot a
vehicle across the frozen Bering Straits, a feat that had previously eluded the
finest minds of Ford, Fiat, and Land Rover. Much of the challenge was
technological. Could Brooks, a qualified mechanical engineer, come up with what
would essentially be the world’s ultimate all-terrain vehicle, capable of
floating on water, motoring through crushed ice, driving on icebergs and
climbing up on to them from the water?
“As the floes jostle their way through
the narrow straits they crash together, throwing up pressure ridges of sheer
ice several metres high which then break apart, leaving sudden drop holes that
could sink the whole expedition,” Brooks explained. “Add to this the threat of
passing polar bears and weather conditions that can freeze human flesh in
seconds and it is easy to understand why developing the right vehicle is
paramount.”
After a series of
hiccoughs, the answer was yes. Snowbird 6
was, unquestionably, one of the world’s most outlandish vehicles, part combine
harvester, part Thunderbird. It also had to be able to operate quickly enough
not to be sent off course by the Bering Sea ice pack which moves north at 3
mph. Move too slow and Brooks and co-pilot would simply be swept past the Uelen
Peninsula and into the Arctic Ocean.
The route in Alaska, from Nome to
Wales, the departure point for the expedition proper, took Brooks and co-pilot
Graham Stratford past a series of inauspicious landmarks emphasizing the
pitiless desolation of this extreme environment: Lost River, No Hope Pass, and
Heartbreak Ridge. Temperatures plummeted as low as minus 42 degrees Celsius.
Technical problems abounded. Then, on 7 April 2002, Brooks and Stratford
reached the Russian landmass of Big Diomedes, crossing the international
dateline and entering the record books. Aside from the moment he proposed to
his wife, Brooks says this was the highpoint of his time in the field,
“realizing our dream to make the world’s ultimate all-terrain vehicle.”
Failure, he believes,
is not failing so much as not getting up again. Challenges are always there to
be overcome. “It is happy persistence towards your known goal that is the key
to all…..”
He says,
“The difficult takes
a long time, the impossible takes a bit longer.”
The End.
Safe Hiking.
References
and Acknowledgements
From
the book – Faces of Exploration – Joanna Vestey
Photos: ©Willem
Pelser
Compiled by: Willem
Pelser
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