Quathlamba
“A mass of Spears.
Named thus by the Zulu warriors before the white man came. Today called the
Drakensberg, Mountains of the Dragon. Evocative names, both equally applicable
to South Africa’s mightiest mountain range with its spear-like peaks –
reminiscent of the saw-toothed spine of a gigantic dragon.”
“Listen to the streams as they gurgle from their cradles
and you will hear the story of the mountains. You will hear fascinating tales
if only you listen! Lie next to a stream and listen to the song of the
mountains. The smiling faces of the flowers, dancing in the wind. Venture into
the remote valleys or stand on a peak at sunrise or sunset, after snow has fallen,
and you will hear a song that you will never forget - the Song of the High
Mountain".
DRAKENSBERG WILDERNESS PHOTOS ©
WILLEM PELSER
“The tragedy of life is not death, but what we let die inside of us while we live…..”
Unknown
Drakensberg
Walking in Cobham
Gxalingenwa and Ngenwa River Trails
Ask any farmer in the Mzimkhulu Wilderness
area what the major issue here is and he or she will say stock theft. It’s an
old ‘custom’ invented by the Bushmen when white settlers moved into their
hunting grounds, and later adopted by the Basotho as their national sport. But,
whereas the Bushmen had just cause, the modern Basotho cattle and horse thieves
are brazen criminals pillaging the rich pickings of a foreign country. The two
points to the south of Sani Pass are the major landmarks of the Southern
Drakensberg: Hodgson’s Peaks are named after a farmer who, in 1862, joined a
posse to follow Bushmen cattle thieves into the mountains. While chasing a
mounted Bushman along the summit near Mzimkhulu Pas, Thomas Hodgson was
severely wounded in the thigh. He died the following day and is buried
somewhere up there. Robert Speirs, who was among the commando, was lost without
horse or food for about two weeks after the incident. He spent some time in a
cave, which must still have been used by Bushmen after this because scenes
depicting the incident were painted on the walls. It was named Speir’s Cave and
hikers who are persistent will locate it along the Mzimkhulu Pass route. The
gateway to this area is the town of Underberg.
Gxalingenwa River
Trail
Route: From Sani Pass up Gxaligenwa River
Distance: 3.5 km return
Duration: 1 to 2 hours
Grade: Easy
General: This is an easy walk for guests at
the hotel or backpackers from the lodge who want to enjoy a saunter into the
foothills. The rivers, forests and caves of the Little Berg are a rambler’s
delight; this walk has all three and is short enough for even non-hikers to get
a taste of what the mountains offer. At one point there is a waterfall with a
deep pool at its base, one of several that are great for swimming.
The walk starts just above the culvert opposite
the hotel golf course. You can see an old dipping tank nearby, which was used
until in 1958 a hotel replaced farming. The valley here is overgrown in places
with exotic trees and brambles, but in time this should be cleared out.
The first of many river crossings is 5oo m from
the start, through an overgrowth of wattle and bramble. There is bush along the
river and this should re-establish itself when the wattle is cleared. In summer
you might need to go a little further upstream to cross at a rocky area.
The second crossing is about 250m further up,
through very tussocky grass. This is a grass used to make brooms. But it’s an
invader species that is very low in nutrition and indicates badly overgrazed
land. Another 300m through better but obviously grazed land you cross the river
a third time, where sedges and ncema grass occur. Now the path continues
above the river on the left-hand side through thick grassland were you should
look out for the many wild flowers that occur.
The path takes you only a short way into this
yellowwood Afro-montane forest, typical of all those found in the Berg. Return
to the glade and take the path across the river at the big rock below an
African Holly tree, then up to the cave. A stream flows over the cave in summer
and small animals as well as hikers use the shelter on occasion. There are some
very faded painted images, so faded that they will be disappointing if you’ve
walked solely to see cave paintings. From the cave continue back down to the
river and the start. This ‘Gxalingenwa Cave’ should not be confused with
another of the same name some 8km further upriver. The route there is not
straightforward and shouldn’t be attempted without a good map.
Ngenwa River Trail
Route: From Cobham camp a
circular trip via Gxalingenwa and Emerald streams.
Distance: 24 km
Duration: 2 Days
Grade: Strenuous
General: Although you could do this hike on a
good summer’s day, it is one heck of a challenge and should rather be
considered an overnight hike. You can get a trail brochure at the Cobham office
which sells books and curios.
Starting at Cobham go upriver and cross the suspension
bridge, backtracking along the Giant’s Cup Trail path. You follow this for
about 2 km up the tinkling Trout Beck, to below a rock band then veer right up
a side stream, climbing up around the base of Ndlovini Hill until the path
levels off and then descends to Ngenwa Pool on the Gxalingenwa Stream. Strip
off, have a swim, and then enjoy lunch because the hard work is ahead.
The trail path crosses the river via a log bridge,
but our trail turns left up the left-hand bank of the river for 4 km to Baboon
Rock. Two paths, about 200 m apart, branch off to the left around Baboon Rock
and away from the river. You should stick to the main valley for another 1.5
km. The main path crosses the river and heads up towards the Giant’s Cup and
Masubasuba Pass.
However, to reach the cave you should not cross here,
but continue for another 150 m to a side stream up to the left. You will find
the large cave is situated just 200 m up this side valley.
On day 2 go back down the river to Baboon Rock
and take the turnoff to the right on a undulating traverse below this formation
and Pinnacle Rock which. Finally, after nearly 3 km, curves sharply round to
the right to follow a rivulet to Emerald stream. Once you are headed down
towards Cobham you cross the river twice before it sticks to the right-hand
bank for the last 2.5 km. Here you should turn right and head back down to the
river, cross it and then follow the right-hand bank downstream for the last 1.5
km to the Cobham camp site.
We as hikers, explorers,
and adventurers have the absolute duty to respect and protect our Wildernesses.
Nobody else will do it for us. Take ownership!
The End.
Safe Hiking.
References and Acknowledgements
From the book – “Best Walks of the
Drakensberg” – David Bristow
Photos: ©W Pelser
Compiled
by: Willem Pelser
