Sunday 13 October 2019

Drakensberg - Lotheni to Sani Pass

DRAKENSBERG
KwaZulu-Natal  South Africa


Mountain of the Dragons

South Africa’s mightiest mountain range with its spear-like peaks – reminiscent of the saw-toothed spine of a gigantic dragon.

 Where Adventure beckons..........

 




DRAKENSBERG WILDERNESS PHOTOS © WILLEM PELSER



  “Hiking a wilderness changes you. As you move through the wilderness you change things and it leaves its marks on you. Most of the time those marks on your body and mind is beautiful. Often, though, they hurt too….”
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Drakensberg  
Lotheni to Sani Pass


The Contour Path is not continuous across the Mkhomazi area, at times descending to below the Little Berg and at one point climbing to the top of the main Escarpment and traversing it for about 3 km. However for hikers looking for a real challenge, this is it.




   Day 1 – 12 km: From the Lotheni hutted site at 1500 m head up the left bank of the Ngodwini River, below Eagle Rock on your right and past the waterfall in a side stream on the left 4 km from camp. A little over 4 km, where you ascend two steepish ridges, brings you to the contour path at 2350 m, near a tarn.


At this point you are standing directly below massive Redi Peak (3314 m). This pass should not be attempted by hikers. Turn left here. After 2 km you will come to Buttress Pass or the Passage running up a spur between two minor stream gullies. Another 1 km brings you to the eMbaxeni Stream which is the suggested camping spot.





   Day 2 – 7 km: This is a shortish day because of having to climb Hlathimba Pass which you want to do as fun and not torture. From the camp site continue on the contour for a little over 1 km and then descend to the Hlathimba River. Here you round the Buttress, a narrow headland which terminates in the Fingers. You have a straightforward climb up a grassy slope taking the left stream gully and by doing this you will be following many historic ascents. It’s one of the Berg’s two or three easiest ascents and takes you past the small but dry Hlathimba Cave.


Head south along the top of the Drakensberg, round the back of Duart Castle across an almost level valley where the walking is easy. Lynx Cave is found 1.5 km south, one buttress past Duart Castle, just over the lip of the Escarpment. It’s a fairly decent cave and well sheltered in bad weather, but can be difficult to locate and often is wet in summer. A better option in this case is the cave near the top of Hlathimba Pass. This cave will be found 40 m from the summit, and slightly above on the left.




   Day 3 – 19 km: After an easy day comes this long one. From Lynx Cave continue south for just over 1 km to the head of Mlahlangubo Pass, an easy grassy descent on the south side of the Mlahlangubo omkhulu Stream. It reaches the contour path after 1.5 km, but from this point on the path is vague and you will have to keep your senses to stay on it.


You begin by ascending a grassy spur for about 750 m, then angle back towards the Escarpment. For the next 2 km the path dips in and out of numerous stream gullies, generally descending to the base of Ngaqamadola Pass up the Mlahlangubo omhoane Stream. Round two spurs 1.5 km further on and you come to an alternative ascent route, starting up the ridge.


For the next 5 km the path takes you on a wide, convoluted loop under The Saddle, crossing so many streams you lose count. These all flow down to the Mkhomazi River whose head is on the north side of the prominent triangular Nhlangeni Peak (3068 m). The last 2 km to the Mkhomazi River goes steeply down a prominent ridge. You could break here if you plan to do the last 25 km section in 2 days. Otherwise take courage and head away from the Escarpment for 4 km, along the spur running out from Nhlangeni Peak and crossing a stream gully. Do not take the path down to the Mkhomazi River, as its 15 km journey will take you to the Vergelegen Reserve Office.




   Day 4 – 20 km: Contour for 2 km and you come to a muddy spring on a side stream that issues sulfurous water. There is a path here down into the Mkhomazi Valley. The path meanders around kaNtuba Ridge, across two small gullies and then descends to the kaNtuba River. It crosses the river and heads up a grassy slope on the other side for just over 1 km. Look out for the turn to the left or you might find yourself climbing Manguan Pass.


About 1 km after the turnoff you come to what appears to be a T-junction, where you must turn right and so not descend the spur, but contour for a short way and then descend to the Ntshintshini River.


Cross the river and for the next 2.5 km loop along the base of Mqatsheni to reach the crest of Burnera Ridge. One path goes down the ridge for nearly 20 km, while the Contour Path continues around to the right into the Mqatsheni Valley. This is a possible camp site for a 5-day trip.


The next 4 km winds in and out of several stream gullies to cut across the large Phinong cutback, passing under The Pillars at 1.5 km. This brings you to the crest of the Koko Tabagi Ridge extending down from the jutting out Phinong Peak.


Once you round this ridge you will be looking into the Mkhomazana Valley, at least as impressive as the Mkhomazi and maybe more so because of the impossible Sani Pass road that winds up it. From the ridge it is 6 km to the road, winding under the Twelve Apostles. This section is in shade most of the time. You will descend about 250 m along the course, and reach the pass 2.5 km above the police post. It is a further 10 km from there to the Sani Lodge backpacker’s place and you will have to arrange transport down.



We as hikers, explorers, and adventurers have the absolute duty to respect and protect our Wildernesses. Nobody else will do it for us. Take ownership!



The End.

Safe Hiking.
 













References and Acknowledgements

From the book – “Best Walks of the Drakensberg” – D Bristow

Photos:  ©W Pelser

Compiled by:  Willem Pelser








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