Legends of the Drakensberg

DRAKENSBERG

KwaZulu-Natal  South Africa

Mountain of the Dragons

South Africa’s mightiest mountain range with its spear-like peaks – reminiscent of the saw-toothed spine of a gigantic dragon.

 Where Adventure beckons..........

DRAKENSBERG WILDERNESS PHOTOS © WILLEM PELSER

  “proud to visit the margins of death”

ER

Legends of the Drakensberg

Once in a while the mountaineering world throws up a climber who, with no training or experience, produces the most sensational climbs from the very start of his climbing career, individualists who break all the rules, and yet who “get there”. Of such was George Thompson.

   Thompson was quite the most extraordinary climber ever to visit the KZN Drakensberg. He was a New Zealander who came out to this country in the early 1940’s. Fair haired, wiry, tough, he pitched up one day at Cathedral Peak Hotel and asked for a job. George was bricklayer by trade, and a deal was made. The only problem was that he had a bad heart, but he set to work. He was about 40 years of age.

   George had never climbed a mountain in his life before, though in New Zealand, where he was a keen fisherman, he used to descend difficult rocks to out-of-the-way fishing spots. In the intervals of building he would look up at the majestic peaks around him, and he soon decided to have A crack at them. He did not know the first thing about mountaineering. He did not know that you should never climb alone. He did not even know that you should always use a rope, especially for the descent, until the fellows of the Natal Mountain Club got hold of him and taught him. But he tackled alone, and without rope, and conquered, peak after peak in the Drakensberg that had never been climbed before.

   In spite of his bad heart he had tremendous energy and stamina. He was known to set out from the hotel at first light with a couple of companions, climb several peaks steadily, and without a break throughout the day, and arrive back just before dark. His companions were exhausted, but George promptly attacked a four-course dinner, and then danced well on into the small hours.

   His most remarkable climb was undoubtedly that of the Column. Have you ever seen the Column? It towers up, a terrifying 500 meters, from the Tseketseke valley, 500 meters of sheer, incredible rock, like a huge, protruding fang. Half-way up the face is protracted on all sides by a tremendous overhang. It had never been climbed, and according to every knowledgeable expert, never would be.

   One day in December 1945 George decided to have a go at it. He persuaded another young fellow to go with him, and together they made their way to the foot of the peak. Arrived there, his companion took one look at the staggering precipices towering into the sky above them, and said “Not on your life! You can break your neck if you want to, but not me!”

   So George proceeded to climb the peak alone, and without rope. Slowly, inch by inch, he worked his way up the sheer face of the peak, up and over the overhang, across the final slabs with scarcely a toe-hold, while his friend watched, spell-bound, from down below. At last he heaved himself over the final rocks on to the summit, and stood there, the first human being to do so, a tiny speck against the sky.

   If the ascent had been extraordinary, the descent, without rope, must have been terrifying, even for a man of George’s iron nerve. Soon after he left the summit on the way down, he lost his route. He found himself on a narrow ledge, less than a meter wide, with no way down from it and no way of reversing his climb and climbing back. He was alone, on top of a most exposed, detached peak, without a rope, and a sheer drop of 500 meters below him. The only hope was another ledge, about 3 meters below him, equally narrow. He knew he would have to jump it, and he knew with cold certainty, that it would be almost impossible to keep his balance once he landed on the ledge. But below that was a small bush, in a chimney, 12 meters down. He calculated that if he went over the ledge he might manage a “controlled fall”, with arms and legs pressed against the walls of the chimney, and that with luck he might be able to grab the bush as he falls past it. He didn’t liked the look of it, but said to himself, “George my boy, the longer you look at it, the worse it gets, so – just you jump!” He jumped, landed on the ridge, grabbed at a tuff of grass, which came away in his hand, and slid right down into the chimney. But as he went down he was able to grab at the small bush, and this saved him. He had sustained a nasty cut on the leg and was badly shaken, but that didn’t worry George! Calmly he continued his descent.

   His next pitch was an “F” standard grass pitch, 45 meters long, and horribly steep (an “F” standard grass pitch is more dangerous even than “F” standard rock, for rock is at least firm, while a grass slope at that angle offers neither foot nor hand-hold.). This was nearly as unpleasant as the chimney down which he had fallen, but he managed it, and then continued steadily on down severe rock until, several hours later, he was down and off the mountain. Two years later Jannie Graaff called the Column “In all probability the most difficult peak in the country.” And it had been climbed by a novice, solo, and without a rope!

   The Column taught George a lesson. It was after this that he began to learn the technique of roping, and soon he became an expert.

We as hikers, explorers, and adventurers have the absolute duty to respect and protect our Wildernesses. Nobody else will do it for us. Take ownership!

The End.

Safe Hiking.

References and Acknowledgements

From the book – “Barrier of Spears” – RO Pearse

Photos:  ©W Pelser

Compiled by:  Willem Pelser

BEFORE SETTING OUT ON A WILDERNESS HIKE…….

DRAKENSBERG

KwaZulu-Natal  South Africa

Mountain of the Dragons

South Africa’s mightiest mountain range with its spear-like peaks – reminiscent of the saw-toothed spine of a gigantic dragon.

 Where Adventure beckons..........

DRAKENSBERG WILDERNESS PHOTOS © WILLEM PELSER

TRIALS ARE NOT DUST AND PEBBLES ON A HILL. NOR EVEN GRASS AND WILD BUDS BY A LAKE;

TRAILS ARE ADVENTURE AND A HAND TO STILL THE RESTLESS PULSE OF LIFE, WHEN MEN WOULD BREAK THEIR MINDS WITH WEIGHT OF THINKING. TRAILS ARE PEACE, THE CALL TO DREAMS, THE CHALLENGE TO ASCENT; TRAILS ARE THE BRISK UNFOLDING OF RELEASE FROM BITTERNESS AND DISCOURAGEMENT.”

UNKNOWN

BEFORE SETTING OUT ON A WILDERNESS HIKE…….

It will be idyllic to venture onto the trail clad in t-shirts and shorts, with no goodies on our backs or hanging from our necks or shoulders. Idyllic - but impractical - and also impossible, for this would imply ‘living of the land’ to survive. Not only are we ill-equipped for such adventuring, but also destroying wild plants and animals both for food and shelter are ‘luxuries” that modern man can no longer afford. Whether we like it or not we are products of 20th century society – seeking recreation on a shrinking planet. When we leave the security of our homes to go trailing, whether on foot, horseback, in a canoe or on a mountain bike, we must cater constantly for our needs – hunger, thirst, protection from heat or cold, sleep, cleanliness and safety – and, of course, our curiosity. Since we can no longer live off the land, or interfere with it, we must prepare ourselves like an astronaut does for a space mission. We must venture into the wild carrying all our creature comforts in a backpack, taking care to leave as little trace of our passage as possible. This is the new wilderness ethic. The technology of our space probing era has produced an array of food, equipment, clothing, and first aid items that are very compact, lightweight, efficient and simple to use.

PHYSICAL AND MENTAL FITNESS………

A basic fact is that the fitter you are, the more you will enjoy trailing and hiking. Fitness is twofold: fitness of the heart (especially important for backpacking, in the legs and knees, lower back and arms, and the upper body.) Cardiovascular fitness is simply how efficiently your heart-lung machine can use oxygen to supply energy to the working muscles. You inherit 90% of your fitness potential, while the remainder can be developed by endurance exercises such as jogging, cycling, and swimming. However, the best sport to get your heart tuned for hiking is hiking. The best way to strengthen muscles used to carry packs is backpacking. Another type of fitness develops from trail use – mental fitness. A hike should both be a mental and physical challenge – you ought to feel a sense of achievement, a “Wow, I made it!” To many hikers the feeling of complete independence, self-reliance and solitude is as ex-hilarating as the breathtaking scenic beauty experienced on most trails.

To those who have never hiked the trail can be many things – wonderful, pleasant, unpleasant, harrowing or disastrous. Some hikers emerge from the mountains with the scent of bushes and ferns on their clothing and dust on their boots – enriched physically and mentally. Others stumble out exhausted, footsore, sunburnt, dehydrated, or soaked to the skin – sadder but wiser for their ordeal. Others are even less fortunate, but basically the outcome of these ventures depends largely on the hiker: proper preparation, clothing and equipment, good physical condition and common sense.

How far can I walk? Here are some guidelines:

33 km a day if you are in top shape and want to see everything in a blur.

25 km a day if you are in pretty good shape and do not dawdle.

20 km a day if you are in poor shape and are intend on suffering.

10 to 15 km a day if you are in fair shape and want to enjoy yourself.

5 km a day if your companion is an attractive person and you both enjoy flowers!

Remember that the trail is not a suitable place for anyone who considers it a loss of face should he decide to turn back when conditions require it; and it is no place for backbiting or sensitivity over small slights. Most of the fun you have from backpacking depends on mental attitude.

From the American Harold Allen:

‘A trial is remote for detachment, narrow for chosen company, winding for leisure, lonely for contemplation.

The trail leads not merely North or South, but upwards to the body, mind and soul of man.’

This is the beauty of the trail and what backpacking is all about.

Trails……..

Hiking trails – The main difference between nature rambles, day walks and hiking or backpacking is one of degree – hikers go further, stay out for one or more nights and carry more need-satisfying items. The hiker must be familiar with various skills such as basic first-aid, recognizing the signs of hypo and hyperthermia, altitude sickness, using maps and a compass, using equipment and knowing its limitations and – most important of all – being environmentally ‘literate”. When hiking you should be able to use all your senses to “read” nature – wind direction, vegetation, wildlife, insects, sounds and smells all provide clues for understanding your surroundings.

Environmental literacy and hiking skills develop slowly and with experience; by starting to hike with qualified and reputable members of mountain clubs or organized clubs, you will be pointed in the right direction.

Guided wilderness trails – The novice will begin trailing on a guided wilderness trail, led by an experienced guide. The degree of fitness required is that of any healthy, keen individual and distances covered every day are relatively short. Because the trail is being led by an experienced person, he will modify the route, taking into consideration the weather and his party. You carry a minimum of items, as most of your essentials are being transported by porters, mules or jeeps. Much time is taken up with discussions and observations in the veld – a most important aspect. The trail officer will help you achieve orientation towards trailing – to become aware of what you are ‘looking at’ – by imparting his knowledge of the region, animals plants as well as the archaeology and bush lore.

Wilderness trekking – Unlike the hiker, the wilderness trekker must carry everything he needs - including his shelter – into an environment in which he must be able to navigate and survive.

Self-guided nature trails – These trials lead to an awareness of nature which we have lost because we have become city orientated. The self-guided nature trial is where you can start learning about your environment as, unburdened by sleeping bags and tents, you can walk slowly and explore, observe and record, using binoculars and field guides to aid your senses and expand their potential. For many people, rambling, bird-watching, taking photos of nature or just reaching a point and taking in sounds, scents and movements is an incomparable high. Try it, but be beware …. Self-guided nature trials are addictive and lead you towards the longer and more challenging hiking trials.

Equipment………..

Boots – Boots are the foundation of a comfortable hike. Buy carefully. Trail boots are always recommended.

Synthetic hiking boots: In recent years several new kind of boot have been developed. Improving on all the features of the classic hiking boot, the synthetic boots weigh little more than a pair of running shoes. Although they seldom last as long as the classic boots and cost the same, they are recommended for any trial. They are painless to break in, thus eliminating the discouraging blister period. They also reduce damage to ground cover, the first stage of the erosion process.

Leather boots: Look for full grain-uppers that are foam-padded at the ankles and have a padded ‘scree guard’ around the top for comfort. The toe and heel should be hard. The tongue should be sewn to the uppers to keep out dirt and water. Before using the leather boots on the trial, treat the leather parts with boot polish, Neatsfoot oil or a similar product. Wear them at home, in town and on short walks to break them in, so that the leather moulds to your feet. A good pair of leather boots needs at least 75 kilometers of walking to wear them in properly.

If you participate in a variety of trails, you will find it worthwhile to own more than one pair of boots, each of different mass and quality, saving the best boots for the more rugged trials.

The midsoles determines the stiffness of the boot. Climbers need very rigid boots for support, whereas those for walkers and hikers need not be so heavy. A kilogram of boot when worn is equal to four kilograms carried on your back! The most popular sole now is the Vibram sole.

The fit of the boot is critical. A poorly made or badly fitting boot not only leads to painful blisters, but also causes the feet to tire much more quickly than a well-fitting boot. A heavy wool outer sock should be fitted over a light cotton or woolen sock. Push your foot forward in the unlaced boot until your toes touch the front. There should be room to insert your index finger between the back of the boot and your heel. Your toes should never reach the end of the boot, as this will cause discomfort on any downhill stretches. Even when hiking boots get very wet – which happens frequently – never dry them next to a fire or in direct heat. It cooks the life out of the leather. Rather allow them to air dry, stuffed with newspaper to aid drying and to retain their shape.

Backpacks – Today most backpacks have internal frames, although external frame packs still have their devotees amongst experienced hikers. Each has advantages and disadvantages.

External frame packs are stable, able to carry heavy weights or odd-shaped loads, and are cool – the frame allows some air to flow between the back and the pack. Internal frame packs are firm, flex to allow freedom of movement, and the better models can be finely adjusted to fit the shape of your body perfectly.

Whether you choose a soft pack or an external frame model, buy one which has a firm, foam padded hip belt and adjustable shoulder straps. The hip belt takes much of the load from your shoulders and the padding is essential to prevent sore, bruised muscles and bones.

To keep the top of the pack from falling over backwards, look for the suspension system type which uses the shoulder harness. Better packs have ‘load-lifter’ straps that can be adjusted to lift the top of the shoulder straps right off your shoulders. The only contact then is against the front of your upper chest.

As with boots, fit your backpack in the store before buying it. Make sure the hip belt wraps around your hips and not your waist or torso. Do not buy a pack that rides more than 5 centimeters above your head.

Women should be aware that most packs are designed for longer bodied men, although ‘women only’ packs are being manufactured. These take into consideration a women’s lower center of gravity, broader hips, narrower shoulders and shorter torso.

The bag itself comprises a number of compartments, often with two to four pockets. Be sure these zipped or buckled pockets are large enough for items you want handy – water bottle, bird book, first-aid kit, camera, etc. A top loading bag is best for over-sized and protruding loads – make certain that the storm flap that covers the top is large enough to cover the bulkiest load that you will carry. Front loading bags with large, zipped flaps are most accessible and easiest for keeping your gear organized. No matter how waterproof your pack is supposed to be, always wrap everything in plastic.

Check nylon coil and plastic-toothed zips for clean stitching, reinforced at stress points. Also look for quick release buckles which are not only more convenient, but safer in some situations, such as when crossing streams. Lift tabs are also useful as they make tightening or loosening your shoulder straps easier, which in turn makes it easier to get a proper adjustment. This lessons back strain, prevents blisters and gives the legs more freedom.

When loading your bag, pack the densest items closest to your center of gravity. In other words, place the heaviest items on top and to the back of your pack, with the smaller items in the lower side pockets; the water bottle should be placed in an upper side pocket.

Women should realize that they often suffer from weight pack too high because they do not have the upper body strength of men. This weight can interfere with arm movement and breathing. Therefore, a good suspension system and hip belt are essential. A ‘moonbag’ worn around the waist is handy for small items you are likely to need along the way – lip salve, tissues, snacks, camera, permit and the like – and avoid unnecessary stops to offload and open your backpack along the trail.

Although color is a personal choice, remember that bright colors aid identification in dense bush, heavy mist or snow and low light intensities.

SLEEPING GEAR – The major consideration when buying a sleeping bag should be warmth. If you plan to hike during winter or in regions with sharp nocturnal drops in temperature, a natural down filling is highly recommended. Down is not only light and warm but also soft, easily compressible and capable of being stuffed into a carrying sack for long periods. Duck (as opposed to goose) down is slightly less efficient, but cheaper. Some manufacturers combine the two to produce a more economical bag. The biggest drawback of any down is that it will not keep you warm if it gets soaked. It is also allergenic and is becoming increasing expensive.

The highest quality man-made fiber fills, however, have none of these drawbacks and, most importantly, will keep you warm even when wet. They dry quickly and are easily washed at home and, being less compressible, insulate you better from the ground. On the minus side, they are not as light or compact as down. However, new fillings have narrowed the gap between synthetics and down considerably in recent years.

Whichever you choose, make sure your zip fastener is nylon, backed by a ‘draught tube’ filled with down or fiber to keep out the cold. Unless your sleeping bag is used only in warm temperatures, you should avoid sewn through constructions, which cause cold spots along the stitch lines. If you buy a bag for cold weather but also plan to use it in warm weather, make sure that it has a double zipper so that you can vent the lower end to keep cool.

Never buy a bag made of waterproof material. When you sleep you perspire and the resultant condensation will soak you and your bag if it cannot evaporate. The ideal combination is a cotton inner lining with a water-repellent but breathable nylon material used for the outside.

The shape of the bag is also important. Mummy bags give maximum warmth, and are more compact than standard rectangular bags. If a mattress is required, a thin, closed-cell foam mattress is ideal, being both waterproof and very light.

A reasonably comfortable pillow can be made by stuffing clothes into the bag used to carry the sleeping bag during the day.

If you intent hiking in an area where malaria is prevalent you should invest In a lightweight mosquito net. With the current upsurge of multiple drug-resistant strains of malaria in African countries, it makes sense to avoid being bitten by mosquitos.

Tents - When selecting a tent, look for one with a waterproof floor and roof and a ‘breathing’ ceiling. All quality tents used to be double-skinned, with a ceiling of breathable nylon, having a few centimeters or more below a waterproof fly-sheet. Body moisture pass through the ceiling, condenses on the impermeable fly and drips of harmlessly on the outside.

There are waterproof materials available which let out body moisture yet repel rain. These materials are patented as Goretex, Ventex, etc. Single layer tents are constructed from these fabrics, the 1-person tent having proofed most successful. Today’s tents come in a multitude of shapes. Any of them is satisfactory if it has the specifications as mentioned. However, dome or half-dome tents will stand without pegs or guy-ropes, which make them particularly useful where staking is difficult. Dome designs have flexible poles which tense inside fabric sleeves, pushing outwards on the walls so as to support the tent.

Other features to look out for when buying a tent are tight, preferably double, and triple–row stitching; reinforced stress points, mosquito netting for doors, windows and vent openings; and nylon zips. A 2-person backpacker’s tent should weigh less than 3 kilogram.  Good tents are expensive but can last a lifetime, so don’t compromise on quality.

We as hikers, explorers, and adventurers have the absolute duty to respect and protect our Wildernesses. Nobody else will do it for us. Take ownership!

The End.

Safe Hiking.

References and Acknowledgements

From the book – ‘Walks and Trials in Southern Africa’– Jaynee Levi

Photos: Willem Pelser

Compiled by Willem Pelser