THESE MOUNTAINS OF UP-POINTED SPEARS
HOLD ELAND, ORIBI AND RHEBOK
CAPERING OVER YELLOW ROCK
TO SANDSTONE CAVES THAT FORM A BARRIER….
THE REAL SUNSET STARTS TO FLOW
ACROSS THIS SWEEPING MOUNTAIN RANGE
AND STILL, DESPITE TEN CENTURIES’ CHANGE
HIKING REMAINS A KIND OF HUNT
ELIMINATING FEAR AND CANT”
The Sani Pass
Drakensberg
GARDEN CASTLE
Mokhotlong, situated in the north-eastern section of Lesotho, was one of the most isolated settlements in Africa. Before Moshoeshoe founded the Basotho nation on Thaba Bosiu, Matiwane and his followers had already settled near the present village of Mokhotlong, after fleeing from Shaka’s marauding armies.
Nestling in a rugged, mountainous terrain about 2 255 metres above sea-level, this lonely outpost was virtually unknown to the world. The name was derived from the word Mo-khootlo, which in Sesotho is the name of the Bald-Ibis. Until the end of the Second World War no roads, telephones or postal services were in existence, only a bridle path down the Sani Pass into Natal. The alternative was a long, mountainous journey on horseback to Maseru, the capital of Lesotho. This ride took about a week if the weather permitted. During the winter months the route was often made impassable by blizzards and snow storms. In summer the difficulty in crossing swollen rivers also presented a problem. Basotho farmers transported their wool, mohair and hides on pack animals down the Sani Pass to Himeville in KZN or down the Ntonjelana Pass to a store in the Mnweni Valley in KZN. Some ventured as far as Witzieshoek via the Namahadi Pass to exchange their goods.
In mid-September 1955 David Alexander pioneered the first motor transport service from Himeville in KZN , up the tortuous Sani Pass, across the Sani summit plateau, over the Black Mountains and finally to Mokhotlong. At last north-eastern Lesotho was linked to KZN by road.
To cross the Black Mountains the road follows the Sehonghong River and finally ends in Mokhotlong. This journey from Himeville is about 72, 5 kilometres in all and is the highest road in Southern Africa. In 1958 an enterprising company, realizing the value of the pass as a tourist attraction, built the Sani Pass Hotel. The original road was then improved. A mountaineers’ chalet was built on the top of the Pass and trips was organized up the Sani Pass and into Lesotho. This has proved a popular area for ski-ing during winter months when the snow can be fairly deep.
WINTER MORNING: DRAKENSBERG GARDEN
A new mountain trail, which is now a road, was blazed from Mokhotlong to Buta-Bute. Leaving Mokhotlong and travelling in a north-westerly direction the road crosses the Popa Mountains and runs parallel to the Khubedu River to the Letseng La Terae Diamond Mine. From there it traverses the high Maluti Range and crosses the Malibamatso River near Oxbow and down the Moteng Pass to Buta-Bute.
The Roof of Africa Rally uses this track from Maseru to Sani, which certainly must be one of the toughest courses in the world.
Anyone who has visited the Sani Pass Hotel, or driven along the road from Himeville to Underberg must have seen Hodgsons’ Peaks which lie to the south of the top of the Sani Pass.
The twin peaks derived the name after an incident which took place in 1862, when cattle and horses were stolen from Robert Spier’s farm, Mount Park. A full-scale commando was organized. The force proceeded up the Lotheni and ascended the Hlatimba Pass into the fastnesses of Lesotho. For eight days this party searched for the missing cattle as well as for signs of the Bushman Raiders. Then, after riding in a wide circle, they returned to a point near the edge of the escarpment at the source of the Umzimkulu River which is near the Rhino, Walker and Wilson Peaks in the present day Drakensberg Gardens Hotel area. Suddenly the party saw a mounted Bushman and after a chase a Bushman boy of about 15 years old was wounded and captured.
LOOKING UP THE MASHAI PASS FROM PILLAR CAVE
During the chase Thomas Hodgson was accidentally shot in the thigh by one of his comrades. Four men were left to care for their wounded comrade whose condition became serious. The rest of the party headed for home because their provisions were almost exhausted and help was needed. Robert Speirs, who was one of those chosen to remain with Hodgson, went with the party to the top of the pass to show them the way down before returning to the wounded man. The storm clouds had gathered and a severe thunder storm forced him to spend the night in a rock shelter.
Back at the camp Thomas Hodgson had died and was buried by the three men who had stayed behind to look after him. Once they had buried him, they departed. Next morning Robert Speirs returned to the camp and found Hodgson’s grave surmounted by a pile of rocks. To his horror his comrades had gone and had taken his horse with them.
It was still raining and the mountain was shrouded in mist when he began his long journey home on foot. Wet and cold he walked that day and night until he reached the bottom of the Pass. Then on and on he walked through rough mountainous country, living on birds, grasshoppers, ants and a dassie. He even resorted to eating bulbs and Erica flowers. Eventually he arrived back at Impendhle after 14 days of hard walking.
VIEW FROM THE TOP OF MASHAI PASS
A year later a cairn was built on the site where Hodgson died. Today the twin peaks immortalize Thomas Hodgson and are a grim reminder of the tragedy of 1862.
Leaving Underberg and travelling along the Umzimkulu River towards the Drakensberg Garden Hotel one is transported to a beautiful pastoral region where the cattle graze on the grasslands and the cultivated fields are scattered like patchwork in the grasslands. In the valleys the willows line the rivers. In autumn the view is breath-taking when these willows and the poplars turn to gold against a backdrop of misty blue mountains.
THE RHINO
In this fickle atmosphere the weather is unpredictable. There are days when the peaks are draped with clouds. On other days snake-like mists flow in and out of the valleys while the hilltops look down on the procession. Sometimes the heavens open and the water flowing off the slopes of the mountain looks like mercury as it catches the reflection of the sun’s rays. The most wonderful days of all are those after snow has fallen. Then there is a silence that can only be experienced in the mountains.
From the Drakensberg Garden Hotel there are many delightful walks. The most popular of the walks is to follow the Umzimkulu River, past the Mermaid’s Pool to Pillar Cave and then to ascend the Mashai Pass. From the top of this Pass an easy scramble brings one to the summit of the Rhino.
MASHAI PASS
From the Pillar Cave the Mashai Fangs can be seen to the south-west of the Mashai Pass.
From the Mashai Pass only Walker Peak, Wilson Peak, Umzimouti Peak, Thamathu, Thaba Ngwangwane and the Devil’s Knuckcles can be seen looming over the valleys of the southern KZN Drakensberg.
A truly spectacular Wilderness area. Dust off your boots!!
We as hikers, explorers,
and adventurers have the absolute duty to respect and protect our Wildernesses.
Nobody else will do it for us. Take ownership!
The End.
Safe Hiking.
References and Acknowledgements
Photos – A Cradle of Rivers – The Natal Drakensberg
Compiled by - W Pelser – From the Book – A Cradle of Rivers – The Natal Drakensberg – DA Dodds
