Hiking from Injasuthi to Lotheni Drakensberg Wilderness

 "These are the lofty solitudes I love:

The rock below me and the sky above:

The cool air moving, and save its sigh no sound:

Glory of Golden Light, and peace profound.

Too soon the hushed, uplifted hour must end,

And I to meet the world once more descend:

But something surely will remain my own

Of this great benediction I have known."

Hiking from Injasuthi to Lotheni Drakensberg Wilderness

 

This is another hiking story which took place at the end of April 2015. It was a hike planned many months in advance. This hike was originally going to be my first overnight hiking in the Drakensberg ever, but it did not happen like that. Instead I did other hikes in different areas, and all of them were epic and brilliant.

 

   Over many months the planning of the route on this hike was changed and refined. I also needed to do this hike to complete hiking the contour areas all the way from Didima to Mhkomazi Reserve.

 

   My dream was always to walk from Injasuthi to Lotheni and finally the time has arrived!

 

   The plan was to go to Didima first for 2 days and for me to do some day walks in the area. The purpose of the day walks was to get the legs going and ready for the long hike from Injasuthi.

 

   We stayed at the Didima camp in chalet 36a which was quite pleasant and the chalet had a nice mountain view.

 

   On the first day there I decided to do the Rainbow Gorge walk which is a relatively short walk through a forested area. The path started at the conference center leading up a very steep hill which really taxes the legs! They should call this hill heartbreak hill! The pathway was very busy with day walkers and at times the path felt like a human highway. Obviously there was no solitude or enjoying the sound of nature as there was just too much human noise. I followed the path and eventually came to the end of it, and here were 2 beautiful pools. The pools were occupied with very noisy and destructive people whom had no regard for the environment. I fled past the pool and ended up at a very big cave from where I observed the antics of my fellow humans. I returned along the same path back to the chalet, and at the end of it had to negotiate the steep hill again, this time just in reverse. I sometimes do not know which is worse, going uphill or going downhill, they seem to be equally bad!

 

  On the second day, 26 April 2015, I have planned to walk to Doreen Falls and explore the surrounding area a bit. Bright and early I took on the steep hill at the conference center again and walked up to the split which turns to the right and proceeds down to the Cathedral Peak Hotel. This part of the walk was a lazy amble to the junction at the hotel. Once at the junction, it was a left turn and on my way down the valley towards the falls.

 

   Eventually you arrive at quite a pretty river and this made a good breakfast spot for me. Then, cross the river and follow the path to Doreen Falls. From here the walk turned into a nightmare as the pathway was extremely busy with very loud people continuously moving up and down. Finally arrived at the falls which is a very pretty place. I saw a cave behind the falls and decided to go and have a look at it. It is a really nice cave but it was very disgusting as to what the walkers did to the cave. First there were those who felt the need to scribble all over the walls of the cave. Really! What type of person is it who decides to deface nature like that? Do they write on the walls of their homes and workplaces too? Most probably. This cave is also being used as a toilet and no effort is made to hide or bury the human waste. Utterly disgusting! I followed a path out of the falls leading up the mountain to a big cave which had some Bushman paintings on the walls. Some scribbling by modern man was done on the wall as well!

 

   I went down the path again and turned left towards Ribbon Falls. I walked right up to the wooden ladder going up the mountain and then decided to call it a day. At this stage the valley was echoing with the sound of humans at their loudest.

 

   The walk back to Didima camp was uneventful and the weather was good.

 

   The next morning we left Didima quite early in order to arrive not too late at Injasuthi camp for the start of my 6 day hike. I needed to arrive at a specific point at the end of the day in order to stay on time for the completion of the hike.

Day One – 27 April 2015

 

Injasuthi to Marblebaths

 

 We arrived at the Injasuthi camp just before 08h00. I paid my overnight hiking fees and it was a pleasure to see Dennis, the camp manager, again. I put on my hiking boots, very heavy backpack on the back and bid Jenny goodbye.

 

Finally, my hike has started! It was up the hill at the office, through Yellowwood forest, out the other side, turning left at the junction and from there make it up to the Grindstone caves. It was really heavy going up to the caves as it is a very steep unrelenting climb up to altitude. Never did I realize at this stage what was waiting for me after Grindstone caves. The mountains were going to grind my legs to dust and then regrind them all over again! I arrived at the first cave after a long hard uphill slog and ended up at quite a nice cave with its own water supply.

 

I took a breather here and then had to find the pathway as indicated by the map. I eventually found a very faint path on top of the roof of the cave, and from here true misery started. The route continuously climbed ever upwards with not a single flat area or downhill area for at least 8 kilometers! The route going up just carried on and on and on and on!

 

After much climbing, and by now very late in the afternoon, I finally started going downhill and could see a valley at the bottom of the mountain which I guessed housed the Marble baths area. Great was my consternation arriving at the end of the mountain and finding out that there is no way down into the valley from here. I had to walk around the point of the mountain and then walk back in the direction from which I came, just on the other side of the mountain. Heartbreaking stuff, but, I had 6 days, so who ultimately cared? Fortunately, my new boots behaved. The only sort of a problem was that my heavy backpack seemed to grow heavier as the day progressed! Fairies packing stones in them! The walk thus far was beautiful though, the silence golden and the solitude sheer bliss.

 

It was heartbreaking having to walk back in the opposite direction from where I wanted to be. But, there was just no shortcut available down the mountain and I had to persevere. Although, in these mountains of mine, there is always something to make up for the real hard slogging. Looking up, I saw the most beautiful valley I have ever seen in the Drakensberg. It was absolutely massive, spectacular and the valley was close off at the top with mountain spears reaching high up into the sky! What a sight for sore eyes!  The “Old Women Grinding Corn” could be clearly seen and the “Gibisila” Valley is indeed spectacular!

 

After some really hard slogging I eventually started going downhill into some very bushy areas and I made my way down the river. The only sad part was that I now had to cross the river, and make my way down the valley for exactly the same distance and to the same point, only in the opposite direction! True test of resolve if ever there was one. I rested for a while at the river crossing. This was a really beautiful area and I could have stayed there for the whole day. I could not take my eyes of the stunning valley.

 

I had to push on and it was not going to be easy. It was now walking through riverine undergrowth and I had about 4 kilometers of that waiting for me. After crossing the river, the path all of a sudden totally disappeared! I was then so fortunate in that I found a number of cairns directing me for a little while into the river bush. For the first time ever I actually appreciated cairns as I normally detest the building of permanent cairns in the wilderness area. It was very slow going and I got hooked up more than once by snagging branches and bush. Needless to say that when I emerged from the bush I looked like a wild cat got hold of me. The last half of the route down into the valley I had to negotiate my own way through the bush to the bottom of the valley.

 

Finally I arrived at the bottom of the valley, now I had to turn right and start climbing the mountain again. By now my legs felt like lead and I am sure there was a heavyweight boxer hiding in my backpack. The path now winds up the mountain. It was a very narrow path with a sheer drop on the left. Big areas of the path was actually swampy areas where you have the mountain streams cascading down the mountain and it then flows over the pathway. It made for very slow going as you had to be extremely careful.

 

I was approaching yet another stream running over the pathway and I stepped into the middle of the mud in the pathway away from the edge of the cliff. As I put my foot down, the bank collapsed and my leg went straight down. The weight of my backpack pulled me over backwards and I fell off the pathway. My one foot caught on the little which was left of the path and as I fell, I grab hold of a tall piece of grass growing on the side of the cliff. I managed to stop my fall, but now I was lying upside down a cliff with my head at the bottom and the weight of the backpack pulling me down. Below me was a sheer drop of about 30 meters and it was going to be a fall which I would not survive. By one or another miracle I managed to hold onto the grass and was able to very slowly pull myself back up to the remaining path by one hand! It was extremely difficult as I had to pull my weight as well as that of the backpack up from a upside down position. Finally I made it back up and so doing escaped death or serious injury.

 

I took a breather after this incident and carried on with the pathway. The path now started winding its way down and ii could see Marblebaths. Once again I approached a stream running across the path with its associated mud pool. I was very tired by now and I saw a solid mud and stone bank on the cliff side of the path. I sat down on the bank and the next moment the bank totally collapsed! Yet again I fell. The stream flows over the pathway and then cascades down the mountain via a 50 degree rock face. All of the rock face below the path was very slimy and very slippery. As I fell, I managed to grab onto the path itself with both my legs landing on the rock face below the path. I had absolutely no grip with my boots and started sliding around and down. I knew if I let go, I will be a dead man! Eventually I again made my way up to the path by sheer will power alone. Now I was really exhausted. I carried on walking and from my vantage point I could see a flat spot close to the river on some high ground which would be sufficient to pitch the tent for the night. I could also see Marblebaths cave on the other side of the river and I noticed that the cave was occupied by some hikers.

 

I made my way down the final part of the mountain and it was with great relief that I reached my spot for the night. Taking the backpack and my shoes off, and knowing that this was the last time for the night, was absolute sheer joy. I just sat there for a while recovering and enjoying the scenery.

 

I went to the river to fetch some water for cooking and coffee. My first cup of coffee for the day was absolutely spectacular. I had a great supper and pitched the tent and made ready for the night.

 

What a day it was! Beautiful scenery and the mountains extracting their toll on every forward meter you gain.

 

About at 18h00 I heard some really loud people, and they were not from the cave. Apparently they have come down from Leslie’s pass and were going to overnight at Marblebaths. They pitched their tents just out of eyesight on the other side of me. They kicked up a racket until about 21h00 that night, even swimming in darkness in the ice cold river pools on a very cold night! But, I was so tired that I could not really be bothered and just after 18h00 I retired for the night. I fell asleep very quickly and slept on and off the whole night like I normally do in the wilderness. I was also very toasty inside my tent and had a good night’s rest.

Day Two – 28 April 2015

 

Marblebaths to main pathway, up to Centenary Hut and the Contour Path

 

 At 05h10 I was up and getting ready to go. I had to wait for daylight in order to be able to see where I am going. Eventually it was light enough to move and I was greeted with some absolutely beautiful scenery as far as the eye could see. It was most impressive.

 

I crossed over Marblebaths and found the path leading through the valley back up to the main footpath. It was easy going here with time to appreciate the beautiful scenery all around me. I eventually reached the T-junction at the end of the footpath and sat down next to the beautiful river in this area for breakfast.

 

If only I knew what was laying ahead! Finished with breakfast, I carried on and follow the path away from Injasuthi. You will now enter a very beautiful valley and proceed down it for about 4 kilometers. I followed the right hand side of the river and the path is barely noticeable through all of the undergrowth and swampy grass areas. The river is stunningly beautiful.

 

This valley is really a very pretty area and caves are a plenty. Lots of San rock art to be found. It breaks my heart that even here in this remote valley people had to deface the art! I am going to come back and explore this valley as it is very interesting.

 

Half-way down the valley the path turns left, then across a river and then up a very (very!!) steep hill. This hill takes you from an altitude of 1750 meters to 2750 meters and is not at a gentle incline. I started climbing and it was sheer murder. It was as if the mountain was trying its best from preventing you to the reach the top. There was not a single flat peace of ground anywhere in sight! When you think that you are at the top, heartbreakingly there is simply another hill, and another, and another! It took me 6 hours to eventually get to Centenary hut!

 

Half-way up the mountain I met a group of 8 hikers on their way down from the Judge. They were going down as slowly as I was going up and these mountains were not giving an inch either way. They told me that they did not make the Judge as they ran out of time. Going up these hills do take a very long time and you have to be fit to survive the climb.

 

On my arrival at Centenary hut I had to take a longish break to recover from the climb and it was now also late afternoon and close to camping time.

 

Centenary hut has been absolutely vandalized and the area inside and out is extremely filthy. Staying over at this hut should never be an option and it is also clear that it is part of a drug smuggling route. Use only in the event of a very serious emergency with absolutely no other option.

 

With the area around the hut not safe, I walked up to the contour path and proceeded down this path. I found a number of streams and was able to fill up my water bottles for the nights camping.

 

About 3 kilometers away from the hut I found a camp spot for the night. What a brilliant view I had from my tent that night looking out over a thousand hills and the Natal Midlands! I had a very good supper and as darkness fell I disappeared into my tent. Once the sun goes, the temperature drops down to near freezing. I was treated to a stunning sunset with the mountains covered in all sorts of beautiful, soft color

 

It was not long and I was fast asleep, nice and warm and very content. This was also the first night that I started hearing the song of the mountains again. Do not laugh, there really is a song! As you sit in front of the tent, you will hear the song start up and carry on for hours.

Day Three – 29 April 2015

 

Contour Path past Bannerman Hut to Langalibalele Ridge

 

 I got going when it was still dark and started packing. I had a nice cup of coffee waiting for first light and I was treated to a spectacular sunrise. The Natal midlands were covered in cloud and from my altitude I was looking down and over this big mass of clouds.

 

It was eventually time to go and again I was going to have a very testing day ahead of me! It was a real tester and went as follows: Up the hill, down the hill, cross a river, up the hill, down the hill, cross a river, up the hill, down the hill and cross a river. This was the pattern for the rest of the day and made for some very heavy, taxing hiking.

 

I did see some spectacular river and stream sceneries. There never was a shortage of water. Unbelievably, going up and down like this, one still gain altitude continuously! A couple of antelope barked their warnings now and then and made a bee line for it, even though they were very far away from you.

 

This is a really difficult route and as the day wears on, the backpack also grows heavier and heavier. I loved to take little breaks at the river and stream crossings. Taking a rest and just sitting there absorbing nature.

 

Up to now my new hiking boots came to the party and did not bother me at all. The rest of my equipment have been tried and tested on previous trips and proved their reliability. It is very nice to have reliable equipment on a hiking trip.

 

Coming down the one hill, the Bannerman Hut in the distance comes into view. I proceeded down into a beautiful valley and river area just at the bottom of the hut. I crossed 3 rivers and walked through the river bush area which is quite pretty. It was quite a surprise to see Bannerman hut intact and not vandalized as is the others! It is most probably because it is not near a smuggling route. I really love this area around the hut because it is so pretty.

 

Late afternoon found me having gained quite some altitude and it was time to start looking for a camp spot. This area being so hilly meant that it was very difficult to find a spot on which to pitch the tent. I eventually considered sleeping out in the open, but then manage to find a small spot on the side of a mountain.

 

Once again it was sheer bliss to remove my backpack and shoes for the day and to relax with a cup of coffee.

 

I again had a magnificent view in all directions from my tent and at this time the song of the mountain started up again. I sat outside after supper with a cup of coffee appreciating the view waiting for darkness. As soon as it gets dark the temperature drop severely.

 

That night I again had quite a good and cozy rest.

 

The last 2 nights the baboon troops in the vicinity woke me up at all times of the night due to them fighting. As it is so quite in the mountains, especially at night, it is indeed quite a racket. I do not know what they fought about, but it was loud and vicious!

 

Day Four – 30 April 2015

 

Langalibalele Ridge, Bannerman Path, Giants Ridge, Giant’s Castle Hikers Hut, past Oribi Ridge, Forget Me Not Hill.

 

 Up before dawn again and having a nice cup of coffee, I packed up very early and was waiting for first light to get going. Today I had to do an extra couple of kilometers just to make sure that I arrive in time at my destination.

 

I was still gaining altitude and the uphill, downhill route kept on repeating itself. I eventually arrived at an altitude of 2800 meters, and it seems as if the serious hilly parts were for now done with.

 

Just before Langalibalele Ridge I met 2 hikers on their way to Giant’s Ridge. It was obvious that some very bad weather was brewing up on the escarpment. The escarpment was totally clouded over with this continuously rolling black mass of clouds. I mentioned this to the hikers, but they were not concerned, explaining to me that they expect a clear night. By now it was also late in the morning.

 

I had a very, very long hike to get to Giants Castle hikers hut and pushed on. At one stage I thought that I was never going to get to the hut as the path just went on and on. Eventually I was close to False Corner and far away in the distance I could see the hut. It took me another good hour and a half to reach the hut.

 

It was now late afternoon again, and I was extremely tired. The hills took their toll. On my arrival at the hut it was disgusting to notice the extend of the vandalism. The hut has been ripped apart and even the door frames have been burned! A huge amount of waste was stacked in the one room. The silver insulation has been ripped from the roof and some of it was used to line the walls and ceilings of one of the back rooms. Food was still standing around on a window sill. The area outside of the hut looked like a demolition yard, as well as a open air toilet. The hut gave me a very bad feeling and it was quite clear that to sleep anywhere close to this hut would be extremely dangerous. Even staying there during daylight could end up being a problem! It was quite clear that the hut was used by drug smugglers making use of the passes in the vicinity. It is beyond me why anyone would want to so vandalize a place that could and will be a safe haven in times of emergencies or just to stay over at. It is clear that the vandalism was done in a very vicious spirit and that it is ongoing. I made a rather hasty retreat out of there! I do not know why Kzn Wildlife do not demolish and remove the 3 huts, as at this stage they serve no purpose and are actually a danger to the hikers, apart from being a big eyesore.

 

As I was walking down the path away from the hut, the roof plates of the hut were thrown all over the veld. It just does not make sense as to why anyone would want to do this.

 

Close by the hut I found the most beautiful of river areas and took a break here as it was out of view from the hut. This is a very pretty area with a nice waterfall and pools. It was quite evident that during rainy season this will be a spectacular area.  I left this beautiful river and started climbing again. Once on high ground, I looked back from where I came and it was amazing to see all the hills and valleys that I hiked through. Only now was it clear what a mammoth task it was! It was absolutely worth it though.

 

My original plan was to sleep in the vicinity of “The Needle”, but I decided to push on a bit further and to put some more distance between myself and the hut area. In this area the pathways totally disappear and you have to navigate your own way. It was now late afternoon and the temperature was seriously dropping. I was very exhausted but pushed on. 4 Kilometers past the Oribi Ridge trial and just past the turn-off to Highmoor camp, my legs informed me that it is time to stop. There were no descent camping spot available, but eventually I found a washed out, eroded area in which I got pitch the tent. It was about 17h00 and bitterly cold.

 

It was a nice relief to get rid of the backpack and take the boots of for the day. I pitched the tent quite quickly as the temperature kept on plummeting. Sitting outside the tent preparing supper was quite an ordeal as by now it was absolutely freezing. Needless to say I did not stay outside for very long and I retired to the inside of the tent very quickly. I was treated to a spectacular sunset once again.

 

Later that night I was lying inside the tent listing to the local baboon troop having their nightly fight. A short while later a jackal started crying from the top of the escarpment with an answering reply from down in the valley. About 6 jackals then joined the chorus from all over and I was entertained by a jackal symphony for about 10 minutes. Combined with the baboon fight it was quite a racket, but not a unpleasant one! Two hours later I was woken up by the soft call of an owl.

 

The temperature kept on dropping during the night and eventually I had to put on extra layers of clothing to stay warm.

 

I did not have a restful night. I just could not settle down and my right knee decided that it was now very unhappy and constantly reminded me that at this stage it has had a long hike behind it! I was also lying slightly downhill and kept on sliding down to the bottom corners of the tent every time I moved. It was most annoying.

 

It was obvious that with me pushing the kilometers for the past 2 days, I was going to finish my hike a day early. At this stage I was about 20 kilometers away from Lotheni camp.

 

Day Five – 01 May 2015

 

Forget Me Not Hill, Kambevula area to Lotheni Camp

 

 I woke up pre-dawn in icy conditions and it was bitterly cold, even inside the tent! Every piece of equipment that I touched inside the tent was so cold it actually felt like it was wet. It was now 04h00 and I still had two and a half hours before it would be light enough to start walking.

 

At 05h00 I decided to open the tent and view the outside world. The flysheet flap did not open like it normally does, but instead it opened like a wooden door! It was frozen solid! Outside the tent it was really cold and on closer inspection I saw that the tent was a solid block of ice. The tent had this thick layer of ice on every single part of it.

 

My problem now was that I could not wait for the ice to melt before I could pack the tent away. As I rolled the tent up, it was like folding up solid pieces of wood! I thought that by the afternoon the tent would be really wet inside its carrier bag, but I would worry about that then. Hanging it out to dry would be a simple process. Standing outside meant that I was really freezing by now and it was barely light when I moved on.

 

My original plan was to go down Taylor’s Pass into the Lotheni area, and once I reached the turn-off to the pass, it would be mostly downhill all the way to the Lotheni camp. Now, on this day, my plan was not going to work. The reason for that was that I had a way-point on my navigation unit indicating the start of the pass and the turn-off to that pass. The only problem was that I tested the way-points on a previous trip to Lotheni and found the points to be way out. So I did not trust the way-points although they would guide me in the general direction!

 

I started walking from my sleep spot and I made very good time. I did 5 kilometers in just over an hour and was very surprised at it! I was at very high altitude now and in a reasonably flat area. Very shortly Garmin indicated that I must turn right to the Taylor Pass way-point. Because of my distrust in the location of the way-point I decided to ignore it and do my own navigation. I am very familiar with the Lotheni area and thought that I would find the pass. At this stage I was still walking through grass and there was no footpath.

 

Eventually after about 2 kilometers of slogging through the wet iced up veld, I found a footpath and decided that this path could only lead to the Pass. Big mistake! It actually took me further away from the Pass!

 

Carrying on with the path eventually made me decide that it is going in the wrong direction and that I need to get off it. Turning around and going back to the way-point was not an option I considered. I could make out clear points in the distance I knew, and I decided to make a sharp right and get to the edge of the mountain. It took quite a bit of walking to get to the edge, and once there I looked down into this big massive valleys with numerous streams and rivers. It was a beautiful panorama.

 

I on top of a mountain and will have to do some serious downhill climbing at very acute angles for a long distance to get down to the bottom of the valley.

 

I decided to not go down this specific valley, but rather to carry on walking at the edge and to find the next valley. After about another kilometer I came upon the start of another valley and decided that I will have to go down now.

 

I had a 4 kilometer descent down a very acutely angled valley to complete and it was going to tax me to the max. I decided to stay next to the river running down the valley in this area. The undergrowth was very thick with lots of marshy areas which added to the difficulty of the descent.

 

It was a spectacularly beautiful valley and the river scenes were out of this world! Going downhill was an extremely slow process and one had to take great care not to fall and break a leg. Most of the time I had to walk sideways in order to get down as it was that steep. The grass also made a habit of tripping you up.

 

All of a sudden the river started forming a series of beautiful waterfalls. I have not ever seen so many waterfalls in one stretch of river. It was spectacular! After the 3rd waterfall my way was blocked by yet another waterfall cascading down a 20 meter cliff, blocking my way. I had to turn left and start climbing up a big hill in order to get around the fall. From my vantage point it was clear that I will not be able to proceed any further down this valley at this point. It was heartbreaking stuff!

 

At the top of the hill that I was climbing, I had to walk on the side of a massive cliff area for a distance of about 3 kilometers. Very far in the distance I could see the point that I was trying to reach. The cliff was about 30/40 meters high and any slip would mean certain death.

 

Reaching the end of the cliff face area, I was very tired and decided to take a break. I just sat down when out of the blue a Bearded Vulture appeared and started investigating me. He flew so close by me that I could see the individual feathers on his face. What a magnificent experience! The Bearded Vultures are magnificent birds and it is an experience to be so lucky to see them, newer mind at such close quarters!

 

I still had more than half the distance to go to get to the bottom of the valley and at the same time to make my way back to the river. Easy it was not going to be.

 

I turned right back to the valley and started to make my way down through smaller valleys. The going was so slow due to the acute angles and you had to walk sideways and one foot at a time to get down, and grabbing hold of anything close to prevent falling or sliding. This process was agonizingly slow and painful. Eventually I was halfway down and found a marshy area with long marsh grass I had to walk through. The grass is so long and thick that you actually walk on top of the grass rather than on the ground! These type of areas also always have hidden water holes which will trap a leg and break it. Some of these holes are up to 2 meters deep. I happened to step into one and my leg promptly disappeared right up to my hip, and being off balance I fell quite badly. It was a very hard fall and I twisted my knee badly in the process as well. It happened so suddenly that I ended up just sitting there covered by long tall marsh grass. I could not see anything but the grass in front of my face. I could have so easily had break a leg. I was also exhausted by know.

 

After a while a picked myself up with great difficulty and it was quite a struggle to get out of the hole. Shook myself off and carried on. The going downhill seemed to be utterly non-ending and will severely test any person’s resolve.

 

I carried on with my slow downhill process and came upon an area with quite a number of caves. Definitely worth a exploration trip! I was now getting closer to the river and the bottom of the valley but still had to negotiate a very, very steep descent. I got so tired of the slow going and walking sideways that I decided that is it. The hill was very steep. I sat down, lifted my legs and started sliding down the hill at great speed on my backside. Now and then I had to put down my legs to slow the descent or to break myself in order to get down around some rocky patches.

 

The going was much quicker now and in now time at all did I make up a huge amount of ground. I stopped my sliding process and got up and walked the last bit down to the river. I ended up at a very beautiful part of the river and valley and was so exhausted that it was the ideal place for a break. Sitting on a rock in the middle of the river, the “Mountain Song’ started up again! It was so loud that it caused me to start looking around to find the people singing so loudly in the Wilderness!

 

I took a couple of photos and placed the camera back in its bag and left it on the ground next to the backpack.

 

I was still standing looking around at the beautiful scenery, when all of a sudden I heard this very loud hissing noise at my feet. I looked down and saw my camera bag jumping up and down and sideways and growling/hissing at the same time. I could not understand how it is that I place the camera on top of one or another animal or snake! Eventually I realized that I did not switch the camera off before placing it in the bag! When the camera did its auto shut down, it was trying to retract the lens, couldn’t do so and that was what caused all the growling, hissing and movement from the bag. Quite a scary, unexpected moment!

 

The river now blocked my way going straight down for the last part of the valley. It forced me back uphill through the undergrowth, and only then could I make my way down to the river again. A short while later I arrived at the Emandundini Trail footpath. Saw some beautiful Eland coming out of a forest in this area.

 

If I followed the way-point to Taylor’s Pass, I would have had a much shorter and easier going route. I would have saved about 6 hours of bad walking. But, by not following the way-points, I have discovered some spectacular valleys and river areas! The beauty in the areas which I saw made all the suffering absolutely worthwhile. I have seen and discovered new areas which I did not know existed. These areas are definitely worth a exploration hike of their own and I will be back to explore them to the fullest extent.

 

I had another 5 kilometers left on the trail footpath before reaching the Lotheni camp and the end of my hike, and fortunately it was all downhill mostly. At 15h00 I reached the Lotheni office, and from there to the chalet booked for the night.

 

On arrival at the chalet, I had to open up the tent and hang it out to dry as I expected it to be dripping wet from the melted ice. Great was my surprise when I opened up the tent and flysheet and it was still fully iced up! Can you believe it! The ice did not melt at all.

 

I was now walking around very unbalanced since I took off the backpack! I looked like a sailor setting foot on dry land for the first time in 2 years!

 

I finished my hike a day early, but, I had spare time built into my hike. I always built in spare time because one never knows what could happen and you might just need the extra time to complete a hike without raising alarms all over.

 

The next morning it was the worst time of the hike again. The return to civilization! I never look forward leaving the mountains and wilderness and returning to civilization.

 

Thus ended an epic hike.

The memory of the suffering always fades, while the fulfillment grows brighter. For all the richness of “normal” everyday life, it is good sometimes to trespass in the Wilderness and live life with uncommon intensity, experiencing something that gets close to the sublime. I have no idea when I will return to the mountains and the wilderness, but I know that I had more than my fair share of those sublime moments. I have touched and seen some of the most magical places on Earth – places whose beauty is inherently dangerous and where man was never meant to go – and I will be back soon!

 

We as hikers, explorers, and adventurers have the absolute duty to respect and protect our Wildernesses. Nobody else will do it for us. Take ownership!

 

 

 

The End.

 

Safe Hiking.

POISONOUS SNAKES OF THE DRAKENSBERG MOUNTAINS

“There are monsters in this here world, my sweetie.

They are called humans“ 

                               

                  

                   POISONOUS SNAKES OF

THE DRAKENSBERG MOUNTAINS

It is wise for people who hike the Drakensberg to become familiar with the types of snakes they are likely to encounter. The usual fear of snakes can be greatly reduced by the ability to distinguish between the dangerous and the harmless varieties. Many snakes are killed purely because they are snakes, even though they perform a vital service to man by reducing the number of rats, mice, slugs and many other pests.

Whether or not one is likely to encounter snakes while hiking, depends upon the time of the year, time of day, and the weather. During the winter months, particularly after snow has fallen; it is unlikely that snakes will be encountered. It is common knowledge that snakes hibernate during the winter months. However, this does not mean that snakes will not be seen during this time. During certain mild winters, especially on warm winter days, snakes appear and bask in the sunshine, but at this time of year they are sluggish.

Hikers are more likely to come across snakes in summer, particularly on hot days after a wet spell.

Most snakes are harmless and will try and get out of the way, but if a poisonous snake happens to be basking in the sun there is a good chance of being bitten if by chance one stands on it. Vibrations are normally picked up by the snake’s ribs, which contact the ground, and are transmitted to the inner ear. In this way it receives the warning and rushes off to safety. People walking barefoot run a greater risk of standing on a snake, than the hiker with his heavy boots which give the warning. Arboreal snakes do not receive the same warning as those living on the ground.

The early Natal Settlers treated snake bite by scarifying the tissue around the puncture. They then poured gunpowder into the wound and set fire to the powder! Do not try it today!

The early Basotho believed that a dangerous snake, called “kuane”, lived between the horns of the eland, and a legend still exists in Lesotho of a snake, presumably a Berg adder, which is capable of jumping over a horse!

Puff Adder (Bitis Arietans)

The puff adder is the most dangerous snake found in the river valleys and grasslands of the Little Berg, but is seldom found higher than 1800-2 000 meters. A mature adult is about 1 meter in length, is fat and has a flat triangular head. The color varies from yellow to brown on which there are chevron-shaped black cross bands on the back and tail. On top of the head there is a black patch which is separated from another patch on the snout by a narrow pale bar. There is also a black bar behind and in front of the eye.

Sluggish by nature, it loves to bask in the hot sun, on paths, rocks and small clearings in the grass and also under vegetation. Before striking the puff adder inflates itself and puffs loudly to warn any intruder. Note that the puff adder will not move away! Although it appears to be slow moving, it is amazing how quickly it is able to strike. It usually lunges forward, or even sideways, with mouth wide open and it sinks its very large fangs, which measure up to 25 mm, into the lower leg, then it immediately releases its fangs and prepares for the next strike, seldom holding onto its victim. The bite is extremely painful and is followed by shock, nausea, vision becomes blurred and balance is also affected. Smell and taste may also be affected. If untreated, unconsciousness and cardiac arrest follow, resulting in death.

Like other members of the adder family the puff adder is nocturnal – so a word of warning to climbers and hikers returning late at night from a climb or hike!

Berg Adder (Bites Atropes)

Peculiar to mountainous areas this adder is often seen on walks and climbs and can be found anywhere in the Berg, but is more commonly seen on the High Berg above 1800 meters. About 30-50 cm in length, it has atypical adder head with nostrils directed upwards and outwards.

The berg adder is slate gray to dark brown but lighter brown varieties are found. On its back there are rows of black triangular or semi-circular patterns edged in a lighter color with the apices of the patterns pointing towards the vertebral midline. Below the base of these triangles is a longitudinal line, light in color, running almost the length of the body.  Below the line is another row of black patterns. On top of the head is a black arrow-shaped mark with the point between the eyes.

This aggressive adder is often seen on the paths, rocks or at the base of plants and grass. Its first warning is a hissing noise followed by an energetic strike throwing its body forward at the same time. Care should be taken whilst moving through dead wood or alpine heath as berg adders are sometimes found at the base of the plants. A bite on the finger will create a problem at high altitudes.

The venom is more neurotoxic than haemotoxic and the usual polyvalent anti snakebite serum is contra-indicated. No tourniquet should be applied. The onset of symptoms at high altitude is quicker but the bite from the berg adder is not likely to be fatal if the necessary precautions are taken. If the victim’s condition deteriorates cortisone is recommended.

The Berg adder lives on rodents and lizards.

Rinkhals (Hemachatus Haemachatus)

A dangerous poisonous front-fanged snake, commonly found all over the Berg and Lesotho from the river valleys to the summit plateau. It is easy to recognize because as one approaches it rears, cobra fashion, with hood expanded, and is capable of spitting its venom into the eyes of anyone who ventures to near.

It usually adopts this fierce attitude but is too keen to slip away. Also take note that they sometimes play dead! Do not approach or touch in this instance. During mating season they are particularly aggressive and it is wise to give them a wide berth.

The Rinkhals is about 90-120 cm in length, and varies in color from black to dark brown, often with irregular cross bands which are also variable in color. The older specimens are usually very dark. When it rears, usually two to three pale bands can be seen on the throat. The fangs of the Rinkhals are fairly short but are highly specialized, enabling it to  eject venom by spitting as well as inject whilst biting.

The venom is neurotoxic and a bite from the Rinkhals must be treated as a serious emergency. If the Rinkhals happens to spit into the eyes, they should be washed out immediately with water.

Night Adder (Causes Rhombeatus)

Seldom seen but this does not mean that they are rare in the Berg. The night adder is nocturnal by nature and it is possible that there are many more than estimated. They have tendency to be attracted to damp places where they feed on frogs, rats and mice, which satisfy their healthy appetite. Sometimes they are seen basking on a rock, enjoying the early morning or late afternoon sun, usually in the river valleys.

The average size is 60 cm and the color varies from dark grey to light or dark brown, or even pinkish brown, with typical dark rhomboidal irregular markings. On the back of the head there is a characteristic dark V pattern, the apex of which is between the eyes.

Not nearly as poisonous as the puff adder, the bite from the night adder is seldom fatal to humans. The fangs are supplied with unusually long venom gland. Normally the night adder is docile and tends to slither away to safety, but if provoked adopts an aggressive attitude.

 There are some simple precautions to take that can help you avoid getting within striking range:

·         The leader, and especially the person immediately behind him / her, should be constantly on the lookout for snakes during the hot summer months and in early autumn (when they go on a feeding frenzy in preparation for their winter hibernation).  Often the leader will disturb a snake and it may go into a defensive pose ready to strike at any further threat, which is very likely to be the next hiker in the queue!  Beware of small or sudden movements, and large contrasts in color.

·         The poisonous snakes mentioned above do not like to be disturbed or interfered with, and will try to give you plenty of warning of this.  An aggravated Puff Adder or Rinkhals will make a loud, drawn-out huffing noise (haaaaaaaaaa), and the Rinkhals will also rear its head and form a flattened hood which can extend a considerable distance down its body.  This noise is usually sufficient to grab anyone's immediate and undivided attention!  Beware of the Rinkhals - it can spit a lot further than it can strike!  The generally smaller Berg Adder will usually make a higher-pitched hissing noise.  Young Berg Adders appear to squeak.

·         Except for the fat and sluggish Puff Adder, most snakes will be terrified at your approach and will try to make a quick getaway.  If you are walking in single file, this gives them an almost 360 degree choice of route.  If you are walking in line abreast, this choice is drastically reduced to less than 180 degrees.  The Puff Adder and Berg Adder adopt a defensive coiled posture if they feel they cannot escape in time, while the Rinkhals will rear up and flatten its hood.  The adders can strike at an alarming speed, straightening one or more of their coils in the process and thus extending their reach, then immediately reloading their "spring" for the next strike which might follow almost instantly!  Do not approach a coiled snake!

·         The leader can find a walking stick or pole useful in thickly grassed or overgrown areas where he cannot see his own feet.  Poking the stick ahead of him, he can give any snake better warning of his approach and allow more time for them to attempt an escape.

·         Avoid walking in dongas (eroded paths) where a snake might be able to strike you at thigh height or even higher.

·         Always wear ankle-height hiking boots.  Open sandals provide no protection from snakes whatsoever.  The author prefers to wear full-length snow gaiters as well for various reasons, one of them being better protection from snakes.  Never assume it is safe to walk around barefoot or in sandals outside your cave or tent!

·         When scrambling up or down steep slopes, check carefully where you put your hands.  Berg Adders are fond of lying on small rock ledges, and climbers are the most frequent victims of their bites.

·         Snakes are most active at night, since this is when their food - consisting mainly of frogs and rodents - is also most active.  In summer, snakes tend to spend the daytime heating themselves in the sun in preparation for their night-time hunting activity, or - if it is very hot - lying up in shade somewhere.  It makes sense, then, that snakes are more likely to be encountered at night, or in the early morning or late afternoon.  Avoid hiking at night!

·         Snakes hibernate in winter but they do not go into deep hibernation like mammals.  On a hot winter's day they may leave their burrows to sun themselves, so be especially careful in such conditions.

·         Always check the ground in the area where you are about to sit very thoroughly.  Stamp around a bit before you sit - this gives a snake further warning and the flattened grass will make it easier to check the area.  More than one hiker has been struck on the backside by an irritated little Berg Adder, which can easily be mistaken for a twig!

·         As terrifying as it sounds, if you get almost to within striking distance of a Puff Adder of Rinkhals, it is best to freeze!  Snakes do not really want to bite you - they prefer to keep their venom for catching food, and you're too big to eat!  These snakes have poor vision and are best at detecting movement.  If you keep still they will usually calm down and move off, although they might still adopt some form of defensive posturing like huffing.  This is exactly how they react when confronted by large animals such as the Eland.

·         These snakes might appear aggressive but they will not chase you even if they could!  Given half a chance they prefer to disappear from site within as short a time as possible.  If the snake is at a safe distance, simply stop and make way for it.  Then make a wide berth around the area where you last saw it, and remember to tell the others at the back of the line what area to avoid!

·         Never attempt to catch or pick up a snake.  The Rinkhals is usually so reluctant to bite that it may even feign death, but this act will be abandoned if you pick it up!

First aid

 The method for treating snake bite victims has changed considerably over the years.  Indigenous peoples have used the cut and suck method for centuries, apparently quite effectively despite the considerable danger to the person doing the sucking, although it has been suggested that this treatment is largely psychosomatic since there is very little scientific evidence that it may actually work.  The carriage of a snake bite kit containing antivenin was for years considered to be the safest option, but antivenin has a short life-span in warm weather and its effects can be every bit as devastating as the bite itself in people who are allergic to it, especially when improperly administered.  Recent evidence suggests that the longer the use of antivenin is delayed, the more likely there are to be complications, since the body - already trying to deal with the poison - may be overwhelmed by the appearance of yet another invasion.  The use of a tourniquet is considered to be ineffective and potentially aggravating, especially in the case of cytotoxic (cell-destroying) poisons.

 The reason for the changing treatment of snake bite is that the exact mechanism by which poisons spread through the body is not clearly understood, but the latest research seems to suggest that the slow-acting (viz. cytotoxic) poisons are usually distributed through the lymphatic system.  The cytotoxic poison itself is usually quite viscous (i.e. syrupy) and its distribution requires that it be diluted in the tissue fluid.  Whether it spreads through the lymphatic system or the circulatory system, it is obvious that any activity on the part of the victim will assist in its distribution.  While this may be desirable in the case of a virulently cytotoxic poison such as that of the Puff Adder, it merely speeds death in the case of a Mamba bite!

First Aid courses now teach the use of a pressure bandage, where broad crepes bandage is wrapped around the affected limb to restrict the spread of the poison.  This bandage should not be tied so tightly that it severely restricts the blood supply to the extremities of the limb.  Some snake handlers recommend that a bandage not be used at all if the bite site is very painful, since this is indicative of a cytotoxic poison whose restriction to the area of the bite will assist it in destroying body tissue there! 

Cytotoxic poisons may also cause rapid and severe local swelling, so unless it is regularly loosened to allow for the swelling, a bandage will eventually cut off the blood supply.  An action that has been part of every treatment, however, is the calming and immobilization of the bite victim.  

 Treatment for snake bite is controversial, but the golden rule is to do nothing – especially if you are not sure what to do, or what specie of snake is involved. If possible one person should go for help. Then treat the patient symptomatically, which means addressing problems, like difficult breathing, loss of sight, or the use of a limb, as they occur. Mainly you should keep the victim breathing and reduce shock as best you can. Keep them warm and hydrated, but never with alcohol. If you do decide to carry anti-venom serum, consider taking antihistamine and cortisone as a general treatment for all types of poisonous bites (to stem the body’s reaction). Only administer a serum if you are certain of the species and you definitely know which serum to use. Giving the wrong serum means the victim gets a double whammy of poison!

 The problem faced by hikers when confronted with a poisonous snake bite is that help is often far away, and a helicopter evacuation may not be possible because of the weather or the time of day.  A cell-phone can prove useful if you are carrying the necessary telephone numbers, but cell-phone coverage in the Drakensberg is very poor due to the mountainous terrain.  It is essential to send someone to call for help, preferably carrying a cell-phone and armed with the telephone number of at least the nearest access point. Positive identification of the snake will help determine the best course of action to take, but do not go out looking for it or attempt to kill it!  If in doubt about the type of snake, rather err on the side of caution and treat the incident as an extreme emergency.

But forget about the things that grovel on the ground and lift your eyes to the heavens, from whence cometh the most beautiful sights of the mountains – the birds. You are very likely to not ever see a snake. I saw one snake in 3 years of heavy terrain, hiking off footpaths and in total wilderness areas! Enjoy the hike!

 

We as hikers, explorers, and adventurers have the absolute duty to respect and protect our Wildernesses. Nobody else will do it for us. Take ownership!

 

 

The End.

 

Safe Hiking.

References and Acknowledgements

Snake Photos – “A Cradle of Rivers, the Natal Drakensberg” – David A Dodds

Snake Information - “A Cradle of Rivers, the Natal Drakensberg” – David A Dodds

Best Walks of the Drakensberg – David Bristow

The “Mountain Man” Website