DRAKENSBERG WILDERNESS - Hiking Kamberg- Highmoor – Kamberg - Exploring the Mooi River Valleys

A TRAIL IS REMOTE FOR DETACHMENT

NARROW FOR CHOSEN COMPANY

WINDING FOR LEISURE

LONELY FOR CONTEMPLATION

THE TRAIL LEADS NOT MERELY NORTH OR SOUTH

BUT UPWARDS TO THE BODY, MIND AND SOUL

OF MAN”

HOWARD ALLEN

DRAKENSBERG WILDERNESS

Hiking Kamberg- Highmoor – Kamberg,

Exploring the Mooi River Valleys

            As usual I was sitting at home, when all of a sudden I heard the siren call of my beloved Drakensberg Mountains. With great intensity the mountains called and I could not ignore the call. The call reached deep into my soul, and all I could think of was to pack and go.

   Without further ado, I took out my maps and started plotting my next 6 day hike. I had more or less an idea as to where I wanted to go and explore this time, and after going through the Highmoor map, my mind was made up. It was going to be a 6 day hike, starting at Kamberg, up the Mooi River Valley, then up the mountains to Highmoor, then explore all of the Highmoor area, from there on to the contour road, down into the start of the Mooi River Valley, at the source of the Mooi River, and then to walk and explore all of the Mooi River back to Kamberg camp.

   I have not been in these two areas before and this hike would afford me the opportunity to get to know both areas. I was also very keen to see the Highmoor area.

   I plotted the route on my map and computer, and transferred all tracks and way-points to my Garmin E-Trex 20. Biggest job done! It is always the prudent thing to do, and that is to plot and plan your route at home and make sure of all your facts! Being very prepared is the foundation of a safe and enjoyable hike.

   Next up was getting all my hiking equipment out and give them a once over inspection. This done I started packing. Working out my food requirements for the trip was easy and as usual I added 3 extra days food as emergency supplies (just in case – you never know!). Very quickly everything was done and I was ready to go.

   We were going to travel to Kamberg early on Sunday, 23rd August 2015, from where I would start my hike.



DAY ONE - 23^RD AUGUST - KAMBERG

   
   We left home early on Sunday morning and arrived at Kamberg at 08h00. Went to the reception office, paid the hiking fees (R55.00 a night), completed the mountain rescue register and proceeded by vehicle to the Research Station a short distance away. Changed into my hiking boots, backpack on, said goodbye to Jenny and finally my 6 day hike was in progress.

   I think that very few people actually realizes what a pretty world awaits them a very short distance away from Kamberg camp. They never venture away from the camp and dams and therefore miss it all! Half an hour into my walk, I saw a huge group of Cape Vultures and Bearded Vultures flying together close to me. This was a good omen and a very special treat. The next 3 to 4 kilometers was some tough going through the unrelenting hills as I was making my way down to the Mooi River and the start of the River Valley. Soon I was entering the valley and what a dramatic change in scenery! I love walking through river valleys. Photo opportunities were around every corner and the Mooi River is a spectacular river with a huge amount of falls and pools.

   Saw four Grey Rhebuck up on one of the hills going about their business. They are very wary animals and take off very quickly once they notice you. There is this sharp whistle sound and then the Rhebuck is gone. 

   I slowly made my way up the valley, gaining altitude all the time. I was in no hurry as I had about 5 more kilometers to go, and I was really enjoying the scenery. Eventually I arrived at a point in the valley where I had to make a sharp right, and start climbing a huge mountain to get to Highmoor. I decided to camp close to the river for the night and get up the mountain the next morning. Flat camping spots were not readily available in this part of the valley, and it took me a while to find a decent spot. Did have a brilliant view from my tent, right next to a very pretty part of the river.

   Spend a lazy afternoon next to the river taking up all the sounds, smells and scenery of a pristine wilderness. Went to bed at the same time as the arrival of a huge thunderstorm.  The Mountain Gods were in a foul mood and some loud talking was taking place. It was a really bad thunderstorm and all that you can do is to sit it out. The storm eventually moved on, just to return 2 hours later with an absolute vengeance. The inside of my tent was a rainbow of colors as the lightning struck all over in the valley and it was quite a spectacle. The rest of the night was quite uneventful and peaceful.



DAY TWO – 24TH AUGUST – TO HIGHMOOR


   I was up early in the morning and had to wait for day-break to pack. Had a nice cup of coffee for breakfast and then started packing. I had a severe hike up the mountain next to me waiting. Highmoor is at a very high altitude and currently I was down in a river valley. Eventually it was light enough to move off and I started the climb. It was slow-going due to the steepness of the ascent. Saw quite a few caves and interesting rock formations and it was an interesting part even though it was very taxing on the legs.

   Eventually I reached the top and the going was less severe, I found an old vehicle track going in the general direction I wanted to go and I simply followed it. The area now consisted of hills and grasslands and it was like walking on top of the world. I saw a lot of antelope all over the hills. I arrived at the Highmoor camp much sooner than I expected. At the car park I made a left turn towards Kamloop dam for the next leg of my hike. There are 3 very big dams at Highmoor which are apparently all stocked with trout.

   Very soon I arrived at the Kamloop dam which is situated very close to the main camp. It is quite a big dam with an open hut for those who would like to picnic there. I am not one for civilization though, and carried on with the trail to take me back into the wilderness. My target was Aasvoelkrans Caves and the path leading to these caves follows through rolling hills and grasslands, typical of high altitude environment. It is not to taxing a route and some splendid views are on offer. On my arrival at Aasvoelkrans caves, I noticed this very steep path leading down to the caves. At this stage I had a very long walk behind me and my backpack started to weigh a ton – or so it felt like. After long deliberation I decided not to go down to the caves. There is a spectacular view over the valleys from this point; you are also standing on the roof of the caves.

   I was originally going to sleep in the vicinity of the caves, but, seeing no suitable campsite, I decided to move on. From this point on there was no pathway and I had to navigate via way-points obtained from my map. I started losing a bit of altitude as well. It was still rolling hills and grasslands all around me, and it is still beautiful. After a 3 kilometer hike I arrived in what looked like a basin area with me right at the bottom of it. The area now turned into a marshy area with quite a number of small streams. I arrived at this lone small tree right next to a little stream covered in marsh grass. I decided to camp here for the night and started setting up camp.

   After setting up camp I inspected the area around me and found a couple of very delightful little waterfalls. It was quite a nice area. I sat around enjoying the view and listening to the wonderful sound of silence!

   Soon day turned into night and it was time to go to sleep. I had a good supper and a very nice cup of coffee; my standard supper consists of 2-minute noodles and vacuum packed tuna which is high energy food and also very filling. The tent was pitched on a bit of a downward angle with the result that I kept on sliding down to the bottom of the tent during the night. I also had yet another thunderstorm and rain early during the evening. It is so nice to be rocked to sleep by the raindrops falling on the tent!

DAY THREE – 25TH AUGUST – TO CARACAL CAVE AND BEYOND……

   I got up very early in the morning; watching the sunrise with a nice cup of coffee in hand. Packed-up everything and waited for proper daylight to get going. I filled up both water bottles at the stream as I did not know how far it was going to be to the next stream. The nice thing about hiking in the Drakensberg is that you are never far away from very fresh drinking water!

   There being no path and me making my own way, I stood surveying the surrounding area plotting the way to go. I crossed another waterfall close to my sleeping spot and then it was climbing a hill again very early on. I really enjoy this kind of walking and very soon I was going downhill again into a valley. As I came around a corner, I saw a rock in the far distance with what seemed to be a dead branch on top of it. I stopped and used the camera to see what it was. To my utter delightful surprise it was a Bearded Vulture sitting on the rock! Now that was the highlight of the entire trip! Never before did I have I the magical opportunity to see a Bearded Vulture on the ground. The Vulture also posed for a couple of photos and then flew off. What a find!

   I eventually made it to the top at Caracal cave and from where I was standing I could see yet again a very steep path leading down to the cave. As it was still early morning I decided to go down to the cave and see what it looks like. The path leading down to the cave is a very severe one and care must be taken not to slip, as to slip would lead to a very nasty fall indeed. I arrived at the cave and was pleasantly surprised. Caracal Cave is a very big cave with a splendid view down into the surrounding valleys and the Escarpment in the far distance. It would also make for a good overnight spot for those who like to overnight in caves. Sitting inside the cave I saw a number of dassies about and a spotted rock pigeon sitting in a tree not far from me. The cave also has its own water supply, which is a nice feature.

   Leaving the cave and going back up to the top was not as bad as I thought it would be, and in no time at all I was standing on the roof of the cave again. I was now going to make my way to some ruins which I saw on the map and which were in the vicinity of the cave. Yet again I had to make my own way through the grasslands and with some heavy going in places I eventually arrived at the ruins. The ruins were all hand built from locally dressed stone and are still standing after a very long time. They were built as animal enclosures in the days when farming still took place in the area. This place would have been a very remote outpost for a farmer. Inside one of the ruins I also found an Ice Rat, which I have never seen before.

   Leaving the ruins, I had to walk uphill for a very long distance and the hills eat away at your legs! It was just never ending! The views from here are absolutely stupendous though, with clear views of the Drakensberg Escarpment Range. One hill remained in front of me, very steep and I did not relish getting to the top of it. I eventually did, and was greeted with amazing views and the feeling of being on top of the world. From this point you have 360 degree views in all directions. Spectacular! This area is a known lookout point and people would walk from Highmoor camp to this spot for the views.

   I sat at the top for a while admiring the view and then made my way downhill. The going was a bit easier now and soon I arrived at the second of the dams at Highmoor. These dams are very big and it is quite surprising to find such large dams at this high an altitude.

   On I went and finally I arrived at the last of the dams which is situated directly opposite the Kamloop dam. It was yet again a very large dam. I had to take a break at this point and found some shade to sit in close to the dam. At this dam a toilet was built very close to the dam. Surprisingly, people use the bush 5 meters away from the toilet for their business rather than the toilet! Can you believe it! They also do not get rid of their toilet paper in the acceptable way; it is left right there in the open where they do their business. Disgusting that some humans are so willing to deface a pristine environment.

   Before leaving the dam I decided that I had to fill up both my water bottles as I had this sneaky suspicion that water is not going to be readily available in the next leg of my journey. Having done so, I set of again. I made a sharp turn to the right once pass the dam. At this stage I was again very close to the Highmoor Camp. I have done a circular route of their whole area! The path now meanders up and downhill in the direction of the Escarpment. My idea was to get to the Plaque the next day and I had to find myself a camping spot half-way there. The terrain did not leave itself to camping though and it was quite a while before I found a suitable spot. This spot was right on the top of a hill with no cover available, or water anywhere.

   It had to do though and I was not unhappy about the spot. I had a good view of the Escarpment and surrounding valleys from here as well. Had a good supper and coffee again and then sat down and watched the sun setting. And, oh boy, was I treated to a spectacular sunset! Totally amazing!

   Soon after getting into the tent for the night, yet another thunderstorm approached and a bit of rain came down. It did not last long and moved away again. I had quite a restful night.



DAY FOUR – 26TH AUGUST – TO THE PLAQUE AND MOOI RIVER VALLEY


  I was up early again in the morning and packed up very quickly. Had my usual coffee. I had very little water left and was looking to drink a lot of it when I do find water.

   I arrived at the Plaque much quicker than I thought I would; the going was also not that bad. But, then, this time of the early morning your legs are still fresh and up to the job at hand! The plaque that was on top of the stone base has been removed, and I can only presume that it was done by vandals. People just can’t leave things alone can they? There is quite a pretty view from the Plaque over some valleys. This is also the route you would take to the contour path and the Escarpment.

   Moving away from the Plaque, I made my way towards the Escarpment. I was enjoying my wander through the hills and grasslands and was particularly looking forward to moving back down into the valleys.

   As I was walking along I was on the lookout for a specific valley into which I had to descend to get to the Mooi River. It was not long before I found the start of the valley and shortly I arrived at a spectacular waterfall and my first water since yesterday afternoon! How sweet that water was and what beautiful scenery. I was now moving away from the hills and grassland scenery into valley and river scenery. Surprises await you around every corner!

   From the waterfall I made my way down the mountain and the last part going down was quite steep. Around one final corner and I was at the bottom, with the welcoming sign of a beautiful little waterfall shortly before it joins the Mooi River. I know this area quite well as I have passed through here on a previous 6 day hike. I absolutely love the valleys and their numerous rivers and there is such a dramatic change in scenery. The gurgling and talking of the rivers is also something which I cherish.

   
   I was going to follow the flow of the Mooi River all the way down the valley right up to Kamberg. The Mooi River is a very beautiful river and well worth the effort in following its flow down the valley. This river has a huge number of pools and some of them are also very deep. The river runs severely zigzag and sometimes runs next to itself! I had to eventually stop for the day as I was getting too close to Kamberg and I still had 2 days left of my hike.

   Carried on walking and being on the lookout for a sleep spot for the night. I was so happy being down in the valley and following this beautiful river. Eventually I found a spot next to the river which was flat enough for the tent to be pitched. Set up camp and then sat down reflecting on my hike thus far.

   I had some spectacular views up and down the valley and it was quite a nice area to be staying over at. I was still sitting there when I noticed an Eland coming down from the ridge of the mountain opposite me. It seems that he was on his way to the river. Very close to the river he suddenly stopped as he noticed me for the first time. The Eland stood there looking at me for a while, turned around and promptly went back up to the ridge and disappeared.

   The day slowly faded as I was sitting there absorbing the sights and sounds of the Wilderness. What a beautiful, spectacular place! I can never get enough of this and not even a lifetime of doing so would tire me out.

DAY FIVE – 27TH AUGUST – THE MOOI RIVER VALLEY

  

   I woke up early morning in what promised to be yet another spectacular beautiful day in my beloved Wilderness. As I was sitting outside drinking my coffee, I noticed what looked like little caves in a small valley leading up into the mountain opposite me. As I had some spare time, I thought that exploring this valley will make for a good detour. So I packed up, saddled up and off I went.

   At the entrance I found the first small cave and proceeded up the very narrow valley. There was a stream making its way down the valley from the top and I decided to climb up the valley and find the source of the stream. You could not walk this valley as it was too steep and climbing was at the order of the day. I found numerous caves and some beautiful scenery. High up in the valley I encountered a big cliff and after climbing over it, I found a most spectacular site! The valley ended right here and was totally enclosed by mountains. The inside area was a big marsh and the source of the stream running down the valley. A most spectacular sight.

   I then had to get out of this basin and after some heavy climbing arrived at the top of the mountain. From there I had a most beautiful view over the Mooi River Valley and the Escarpment. Far in the distance I could see another valley and decided to walk the top of this mountain to the start of that valley. Along the way I crossed numerous streams starting their journey right here at the top of the mountain. Eventually I reached the 2^nd valley and what a nice surprise it was! I walked straight into the most beautiful hidden away waterfall. Followed this river and found two more gorgeous waterfalls. If you are willing to explore this Wilderness you will be richly rewarded!

      I started making my way down the valley following the river. It was a really scenic walk and it just makes me stand in awe of such beauty, untouched by the human hand. I eventually arrived back at the bottom and proceeded to the Mooi River. Once at the river, I followed the flow of the river. At one point I had to cross the river and I came to a bend in the river. Right inside this bend I found two big magical caves with their own little gardens and the river flowing past the caves. What a sight!

   And so I carried on with my wanderings next to the river, every area appealing to all my senses. In front of me the river is being forced sharply to the left due to a massive cliff on the right of the river. I looked up at the mountain on my right, appreciating the rock formations of the cliffs. Then, all of a sudden, high up the cliffs, I noticed this red coloring on one of the rocks. I took out my camera and used the zoom lens to focus in on it. What a surprise, I zoomed straight into a Bushman painting! Come hell or high water, I was going to make the climb up the cliff face to go check out the painting. It took me a while to get to the rock face due to the severe angle of ascent. But, when I have made that final meter, I stood in absolute awe and shock. I have found myself the biggest collection of paintings I have ever seen! I was standing on the floor of a massive cave and in front of me the cave was covered in paintings from one side to the other. Over a length of about 50 meters there was one painting after the other. It was an absolute magnificent find. I could not believe it. It took me about an hour to photograph all of the paintings, they were so numerous!

   This find made my 6 day hike an absolute winner. After taking the photos I sat down on a rock in the cave appreciating what I saw. There was also a lovely view from the cave, the cave being so high up the cliff. I tried to place myself in the shoes of the Bushmen and tried to imagine what life was like hundreds of years ago in this Wilderness. They lived in an absolute paradise! How come they did what they did, and did they perhaps sat on the same rock that I am sitting on? Did they wander and played in the same areas next to the river that I have followed? Eventually I had to go and I made my way down the cliff back to the river. What an absolute amazing find!

   Once at the bottom I crossed the river and made my way further down the Mooi River Valley. I only had a little way to go before I was back at the sleeping spot where I slept on the first night. On my arrival there I decided to camp for the night in the exact same spot and started making camp.

   The rest of the afternoon I was sitting in this pristine, beautiful river environment reflecting on what a fruitful and interesting day I have had. It was so stunningly good. At one stage during the afternoon a thunderstorm approached and a few raindrops and hail fell. It soon stopped. I did a lot of thinking that afternoon sitting on a rock in the middle of the Mooi River. The thoughts were all about my beautiful Drakensberg Wilderness and its rich history. What a place! Eventually I retired for the night as darkness fell.

DAY SIX – 28TH AUGUST – THE REST OF THE MOOI RIVER VALLEY TO KAMBERG CAMP

   Up early the next morning I was after a not to restful night. It was quite chilly outside the tent and I had a cup of coffee brewing very quickly. I love standing outside when it is still dark and watch the mountains change as the day breaks. It is such a magnificent time of the day and a change of moods.

   Started packing for what was going to be my last day in the Wilderness. After packing I made sure – as I do every morning – that I am not leaving any trace of me being there. Today I was going to complete my exploration of the Mooi River Valley and then proceed to Kamberg Camp. I left my camping spot and followed the meandering river down the valley, The River was absolutely beautiful and I could still not get over the sheer number of massive pools. It was quite a treat following the river. At one stage I started doing some boulder hopping in the river and came to a waterfall. As I clambered over the rocks in the river I found this beautiful waterfall area. At the bottom of the waterfall there was a complete Eland carcass lying on the rock-bed. It looks like the Eland was the unfortunate victim of a flash flood.

   I spend some time in this area because it was so beautiful and I had to drag myself away from there. I eventually reached the end of the valley and now the river starts flowing through a plain. Right at the end of the valley there is another river which joins the Mooi River and it creates quite a spectacle and some beautiful scenery at this point.

   Just a short way further down from the point where the rivers join, I had to take a break. As it was very hot by now and no shady trees were available, I managed to find a little island in the middle of the river with some shade. I sat down on a rock in the river and gave my feet a break. Up to this point I have walked past some spectacular river scenery this morning. It was a really brilliant decision to follow the river and explore the length of it. This river will now be etched on my mind forever. As I was sitting on this rock, a lizard made his appearance, very shyly at first and then getting bolder. I must have played games with this lizard for more than half an hour! 

   It is also amazing how relaxed mind, body and soul become in the Wilderness. Tomorrow does not exist and all that count is the present, surrounded by amazing beauty. I could live like this forever. 

   I was close to the Mooi River Weir at this stage. I decided not to walk down to the weir, but get back up the hills as I wanted to see if I could find the vultures again. I saw them flying above the cliffs all morning and was hoping for some more photo opportunities. It was with sadness that I left the river area and started the long, hard slog up the mountain. 

   After a long hard climb uphill, I found the path and followed it back in the direction of the camp. At the cliffs where I was hoping to find the vultures, there were none sitting on the rocks. About 20 of them were flying around and I could get no photo opportunity. Carried on with the path and walked into the first old farm house ruins. It is amazing to think that people use to farm here many years ago. Imagine what a paradise they walked into when they first arrived here. The first white people ever in Paradise; which they then promptly destroyed. A short way down the road there is a second ruin. Somebody with a great sense of humor was in charge of breaking down the building, as the house was broken down to the foundation; all of it except the toilet. The white porcelain toilet now stands there in all its glory as if a trophy on display! The farmers planted huge Oak tree plantations around their homesteads, the plantations have now been destroyed and it is clearly visible where they once stood. Two Oak trees have been left behind and they are massive and very old.

   From the ruins there is an old dirt road leading to the camp and the start of civilization. Due to the condition of the road, it is being used by visitors as a 4 by 4 track. I followed the road and it was not long before I reached the end of my hike. It was with a heavy heart with which I turned around and looked at where I was coming from. Out of the Wilderness back into civilization.

   The worst part of any hike – for me – is when I come to the end of the hike and walk back into civilization. I always have to drag my soul – screaming blue murder – out of the Wilderness. 6 Day hikes is a long time to spend in the wilderness – not long enough for me – and it is amazing how quickly the human body adapts to the Wilderness. It is as if it is placed back where it belongs!

   Once again, I thoroughly enjoyed my hike and time in the Wilderness. I belong there and nowhere else!

   What can I say!

Trails are not dust and pebbles on a hill,

Nor even grass and wild buds by a lake;

Trails are adventure and a hand to still

The restless pulse of life when men would break,

Trails are peace,

The call to dreams.

H F Bower

We as hikers, explorers, and adventurers have the absolute duty to respect and protect our Wildernesses. Nobody else will do it for us. Take ownership!

 

 

The End.

 

Safe Hiking.

References and Acknowledgements

From the book: “Drakensberg Wilderness – A Solo Journey Through                                                           Paradise” –W Pelser

Photos:  Willem Pelser

Compiled by:  Willem Pelser