MOUNTAINS SPEAK OF GREATER
FORCES THAN WE CAN POSSIBLY INVOKE, AND CONFRONTS US WITH GREATER SPANS OF TIME
THAN WE CAN POSSIBLY ENVISAGE.”
UNKNOWN
IN THE SHADOW OF CATHEDRAL
PEAK
Ask the tribes who live in the Ntonjelana Valley the name of the high barrier which separates the Mnweni from the Cathedral Peak valleys, and each and every one of them will reply, “AbaMponjwana” (Ridge of Horns). The most northern peak, Cathedral Peak, they call Mponjwana (Little Horn) and know it by no other name. Surely this name must have been in use by the Amangwane tribe even before the European settlers arrived in the foothills?
Cross this barrier and you will be transported into a land of streams, forests and grasslands where wild animals still roam as they did before the hunter arrived. High above stands the Cathedral Peak with its spire pointing towards the heavens, where the noise of the wind echoes from the Organ Pipes across to Mitre and the Bell. If you stand on the summit of Cleft Peak, which could well be called the Altar, you can almost hear “Gloria in Excelcis” from the choirs of lesser peaks.
In 1847 a mission station called “Emmaus” was built here by the Reverend K. Posselt and another missionary named Guldenpfennig at the request of the Government of Natal. The site they chose was only a short distance away from Chief Zikhali’s kraal. At this lonely mission station dedicated men preached the Gospel to the local tribe but converts were few.
The mission’s peaceful existence was disturbed when Bushmen raiders swooped down and stole their cattle. Inn 1868 Mandisa, a headman living near the Umlambonja River, also lost cattle during a raid. As soon as the raid was reported a party set off and, on reaching the top of the escarpment, recovered all the cattle except a few which were killed or wounded by the raiders. This was not the only occasion when Mandisa had lost his cattle.
Magistrate MacFarlane led a party that investigated the route used by the Bushmen and found that it led up the Ndedema. They suggested blasting a section of the route thus making it impassable. However, from 1874 on-wards there were no more Bushmen raids.
Who it was who actually gave Cathedral Peak the name it has borne for so many years is not known, but it is possible that the missionaries at Emmaus gave the peak its name, an obvious one for a peak with a spire situated next to a perfect bell. Years later the Organ Pipes and the Mitre were added to the religious theme.
In 1850 the Reverend Carl Zunckel replaced the Reverend Posselt and there he lived and worked among the Amangwane tribe until 1891. Two other mission stations were started – Emangweni near Cathkin in 1863 and Hoffenthal in 1869 in the Mnweni area.
European settlers living on the plains seemed to favor cattle farming, but lung sickness reduced their herds so drastically that eventually they resorted to sheep farming., and between 1920 and 1930 certain Orange Free State farmers, who also owned farms in the Cathedral Peak area, send their flocks to the grasslands of the Berg for winter grazing. The Little Berg was public commonage and farmers paid 12 pounds per year for grazing rights.
Wilhelm Zunckel, son of the Reverend C. Zunckel, also farmed in the area where his flock of sheep and goats were often cared for by his son, Otto. A cave in the upper Mhlwazine called Zunckel’s cave was often used to shelter the flock.
The Rev. C. Zunckel died in 1899. His grandson, Otto, as well as his three sons, Walter, Udo, and Gerald, is well known to people who have visited the hotels in the Drakensberg over the years.
Situated in a unique setting, completely surrounded by mountains, is the popular Cathedral Peak Hotel. The original farms Inhoek and Schaapkraal were purchased by Philip van der Riet in 1937. It was not long before a site for a hotel was carefully chosen, having a uninterrupted view of Cathedral Peak, the Bell and the two Horns. In 1939 the first guests were welcomed.
Albert van der Riet, son of Phillip, and his wife Doreen certainly worked hard in those early days as the hotel became one of the most popular mountain resorts in the country.
Life in the secluded valley was not always peaceful. On several occasions the Van der Riet’s were called upon to organize rescue parties to go to the aid of someone who was reported as lost, or to recover the body of a climber who had fallen. Mountaineers will always remember the kindness and courtesy of the proprietor and his wife and of Sonya van der Riet, who has always been a great help to climbers.
A colorful character at Cathedral Peak for many years was John the Guide, who was a most popular figure among the visitors. It was his task to lead parties. He assisted in most of the mountain rescues in the Cathedral Peak area and was the first black man ever to climb the Bell – more or less dragged up it by George Thompson.
From the hotel the Cathedral Ridge dominates the western horizon. The spur extends at right angles from the main Berg and consists of the Puddings, Cathedral Peak, the Bell, Outer and Inner Horn, the Chessmen, Mitre and Triplets.
Cathedral Peak is situated at the northern end of the Cathedral Ridge and from its summit a magnificent panoramic view of the whole range can be seen. It is one point where one can get a bird’s eye-view of the Mnweni area.
The peak itself was first climbed via the gully in 1917 by D.W Bassett-Smith and R.G. Kingdon. Since then thousands of visitors have stood on the summit.
The Bell, perfect in shape, is one of the wonders of the Drakensberg. For many years mountaineers traversed its grassy ledges trying to find a possible route to the summit. Some thought it quite impossible; others felt that it might prove a straight forward climb. Eventually, on 17th January 1944, the Bell was tolled by Hans and Else Wongtschowski. Hans described the climb as “an anti-climax to those who expected the Bell to be impossible, unclimbable, and unjustifiable.”
The flat topped summit of the Outer Horn was conquered in 1934, while in 1925 the Inner Horn was climbed. These two bastions have been referred to as the Horns for many years but some tribes living to the north maintain that the name is derived from the outline between the horns which resembles a Kudu’s horn.
The Chessmen are well named. They have stood rigid for thousands of years while the wisps of cloud dodge in and out of the pawns, castles, knights, kings and queens and bishops, watched by the Mitre.
The Mitre was first ascended in 1938. Close to the Mitre are the Triplets, a peak also called the Twins with three distinct summits which are visible from the escarpment as well as the valley below. On the northern side a fine cave called Twins cave, is always a welcome sight to the tired climber, particularly in bad weather.
A contour path extends from the Cathedral Peak Hotel all the way past Cathkin Peak to end in the Injasuthi Valley. It was started by Van Heyningen in 1937. From the hotel this path skirts the Cathedral Ridge and crosses the Umlambonja River beneath the Umlambonja Buttress, a long flat-topped buttress with a vertical face. In and out of the numerous valleys the path contours at about 2000 meters under the Elephant, the Cockade and its plumes, and passes around the pride of the Cathedral area, the Pyramid and the Column.
The Pyramid is more difficult to climb than the Bell and was first ascended in 1936. It was on this peak that the legendary George Thomson started his climbing career.
George, a New Zealander, arrived in South Africa at the age of 40, having lived most of his life in the wild and rugged parts of his native land. Anyone who had the pleasure of accompanying him on one of his long trips across the Berg will confirm that his strength and fitness were exceptional.
His love of the high mountains attracted George to the Cathedral Peak Hotel where building operations were in progress, and as he was a carpenter, it was not long before he was hard at work, his keen eyes watching the clouds swirling around the summits.
He started his climbing career when he accompanied Stan Rose in the third attempt at the Pyramid. George asked whether he could have a crack at it, and soon they were on the summit. This fired his enthusiasm and it was not long before he stood on the summit of the Bell, again a third attempt.
After he became familiar with the Hooper route on the Bell he repeatedly led experienced as well as inexperienced climbers to the summit.
The call of the higher peaks got the better of him. On the 9th December 1945 he gathered a few enthusiasts and set off to look at the Column. From the base the peak looked quite impregnable. Even the most experienced climbers were of the opinion that the climb was hardly practical. However, in the end one of his party agreed to climb with him – only to beat a retreat and descend after the first pitch. George was determined to get to the summit. On and on he climbed alone, having thrown down the rope earlier. His friends watched this amazing feat with intense anxiety. At length they saw a minute figure standing on the summit. The impossible had been achieved.
The drama was not over when George reached the summit. He still had to descend. Alone he stood. There was no rope with which he could abseil and the exposure was considerable. As he started to descend his foothold gave way, and after falling about 10 meters he grabbed a protruding Erica bush and, with only a minor injury, climbed down to the base. Had he missed the Erica or not been able to grab it, he certainly would have fallen to his death 200 meters below.
At age 54 George could still outpace the fittest.
George’s last feat was in December 1948, when he and Charles Gloster climbed the western flank of the outer Mnweni Pinnacle, a climb with tremendous exposure and of extreme difficulty.
In addition to rock climbing he loved to visit the various rock shelters and study the Bushman paintings.
In 1949 he left his beloved mountains and went to live in Zimbabwe. His name will live forever. He was one of the most extraordinary characters who have lived, roamed, and climbed in the mighty Drakensberg.
The hotel route to Cleft Peak climbs past the Camel and the Nose and then zigzags to the base of Castle Buttress, up through the Windy Gap. The final slog up Organ Pipes Pass brings one to the top of the escarpment.
Cleft Peak lies to the north-west of the Indumeni Dome and is one of the highest peaks in South Africa. The view from its summit gives without a doubt the finest panoramic view from the edge of the Drakensberg escarpment. Cleft was first climbed in 1941 via a diagonal route, and in 1946 via the cleft.
From the top of Organ Pipes Pass there are 2 passes that lead down. The first is via the Tutumi Ridge and the second, commonly used by the Basotho, is down the Tutumi Valley into the Ndedema. From the bottom of the Tutumi Ride the contour path is crossed once again.
The contour path becomes a road before it enters the old research area. High above the Indumeni Dome, Windsor Castle and Little Saddle are part of the escarpment.
The road ends on a knoll where the path descends far down into the wonderful world of the Ndedema Gorge – a paradise of forest and sandstone cliffs, once a favorite haunt of the Bushmen who hunted wild animals and chose to decorate the sandstone faces of the Ndedema to display some of the most important primitive art ever found.
Spend a stormy night in the Sebaaieni cave, close to where the contour path crosses the Ndedema River, and you will agree with the tribes who named it ”Ndedema”, which means “the reverberating one”. As the thunder echoes through the gorge and, as the waters rush towards it, so the noise of the large oval, basalt boulders being moved about by the force of the rushing water adds to the noise of the thunder and racing waters.
The Ndedema River rises on the High Berg and flows over the edge of the Ndedema Falls, watched by the Sphinx and Sugar Loaf and guarded by the Ndedema Dome.
After the contour path has crossed the Ndedema River, a long climb leads to the slopes of Eastman Peak, named after “Grandpa Eastman”, a Cape climber, and then descends into the Nkosazana Valley and River. This river has its source on the slopes of Champagne Castle and passes fairly closely to the Nkosazana Cave and crashes down into the Nkosazana Valley, the head of which is called the Vultures Retreat, and lies between the Litter and Dragon’s Back. After crossing the Nkosazana River the contour path skirts Ntunja to enter the deep wide valley of the upper Mhlwazine.
So how come your backpack is not packed yet? Do a 6 day hike and go and explore. You will not be sorry!
We as
hikers, explorers, and adventurers have the absolute duty to respect and
protect our Wildernesses. Nobody else will do it for us. Take ownership!
The End.
Safe Hiking.
References and Acknowledgements
From the book: “A Cradle of Rivers – The Natal Drakensberg” -
D.A. Dodds
Photos: “A Cradle of Rivers – The Natal Drakensberg” - D.A. Dodds
Compiled by: Willem Pelser
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