Quathlamba
“A
mass of spears. Named thus by the Zulu warriors before the white man came.
Today called the Drakensberg, mountains of the Dragon, a name given by the
Voortrekkers. Evocative names, both equally applicable to South Africa’s
mightiest mountain range with its spear-like peaks – reminiscent of the
saw-toothed spine of a gigantic dragon.”
Panorama April 1966This blog is all about the Drakensberg Mountains and its Wilderness area, South Africa. I have lost my heart and soul to this area and every single time I hike these mountains, I stand in awe all over again at this magnificent beauty.
"How often in the course of our travels through Kwazulu-Natal do we stop and gaze at the beauty of a distant range of mountains? The Drakensberg stands as a monument to one of the greatest cataclysms the Earth has experienced. As you approach the mountains, you realize why early Zulus called it "Quathlamba", meaning “Barrier of Up-pointed Spears". A cradle of rivers. Listen to the streams as they gurgle from their cradles and you will hear the story of the mountains. You will hear fascinating tales if only you listen! Lie next to a stream and listen to the song of the mountains. The smiling faces of the flowers, dancing in the wind. Venture into the remote valleys or stand on a peak at sunrise or sunset, after snow has fallen, and you will hear a song that you will never forget - the Song of the High Mountain". (DA Dodds)
Hiking adventures, hiking gear reviews, day walks, accommodation, books, articles and photos, all related to these magnificent mountains will feature here.
Should you want to accompany me on a hike or need some information or advice, please make contact with me. I hope you enjoy the articles.
Please visit the archive for some more interesting stories and reviews.
Available in the Archive
(Do read it!)
1) Injasuthi to Lotheni
- Epic 6 Day Hike
2) Review: Hi-Tec
Altitude Pro RGS Hiking Boots
3) Drakensberg
Wilderness Hiking - 14 Day Hiking trip - Lotheni Reserve (Part 3)
4) Lotheni - 14 Day
Hiking Trip (Part 2)
5) Lotheni - 14 Day
Hiking Trip (Part 3)
6) The Bushmen of the
Drakensberg
7) Thunderstorms in the
Drakensberg Mountains
8) Before setting out on a hike………..
Please note that all photos on this blog are copyright protected. If you would like to obtain
Photos please make contact with the author, Willem Pelser.
BEFORE SETTING OUT ON A HIKE…….
Trials
are not dust and pebbles on a hill.
Nor
even grass and wild buds by a lake;
Trails
are adventure and a hand to still
The
restless pulse of life when men would break
Their
minds with weight of thinking. Trails are peace,
The
call to dreams, the challenge to ascent.
Trails
are the brisk unfolding of release
From
bitterness and discouragement.
It will be
idyllic to venture onto the trail clad in t-shirts and shorts, with no goodies
on our backs or hanging from our necks or shoulders. Idyllic - but impractical
- and also impossible, for this would imply ‘living of the land’ to survive.
Not only are we ill-equipped for such adventuring, but also destroying wild
plants and animals both for food and shelter are ‘luxuries” that modern man can
no longer afford. Whether we like it or not we are products of 20th
century society – seeking recreation on a shrinking planet. When we leave the
security of our homes to go trailing, whether on foot, horseback, in a canoe or
on a mountain bike, we must cater constantly for our needs – hunger, thirst,
protection from heat or cold, sleep, cleanliness and safety – and, of course,
our curiosity. Since we can no longer live of the land, or interfere with it,
we must prepare ourselves like an astronaut does for a space mission.
We must
venture into the wild carrying all our creature comforts in a backpack,
taking care to leave as little trace of our passage as possible. This
is the new wilderness ethic. The technology of our space probing era has
produced an array of food, equipment, clothing and first aid items that are
very compact, lightweight, efficient and simple to use.
PHYSICAL AND MENTAL
FITNESS………
A basic fact
is that the fitter you are, the more you will enjoy trailing and hiking.
Fitness is twofold: fitness of the heart (especially important for backpacking,
in the legs and knees, lower back and arms, and the upper body.) Cardiovascular
fitness is simply how efficiently your heart-lung machine can use oxygen to
supply energy to the working muscles. You inherit 90% of your fitness
potential, while the remainder can be developed by endurance exercises such as
jogging, cycling and swimming.
However, the best sport to get your heart tuned
for hiking is hiking. The best way to strengthen muscles used to carry
packs is backpacking. Another type of fitness develops from trail use
– mental fitness. A hike should both be a mental and physical challenge – you
ought to feel a sense of achievement, a “Wow, I made it!” To many hikers the
feeling of complete independence, self-reliance and solitude is as
ex-hilarating as the breathtaking scenic beauty experienced on most trails.
To those who
have never hiked the trail can be many things – wonderful, pleasant,
unpleasant, harrowing or disastrous. Some hikers emerge from the mountains with
the scent of bushes and ferns on their clothing and dust on their boots –
enriched physically and mentally. Others stumble out exhausted, footsore,
sunburnt, dehydrated or soaked to the skin – sadder but wiser for their ordeal.
Others are even less fortunate, but basically the outcome of these ventures
depends largely on the hiker: proper preparation, clothing and equipment, good physical
condition and common sense.
How far can
I walk? Here are some guidelines:
33 km a day
if you are in top shape and want to see everything in a blur.
25 km a day
if you are in pretty good shape and do not dawdle.
20 km a day
if you are in poor shape and are intend on suffering.
10 to 15 km
a day if you are in fair shape and want to enjoy yourself.
5 km a day
if your companion is an attractive person and you both enjoy flowers!
Remember
that the trail is not a suitable place for anyone who considers it a loss of
face should he decide to turn back when conditions require it; and it is no
place for backbiting or sensitivity over small slights. Most of the fun you
have from backpacking depends on mental attitude. From the American Harold
Allen”
‘A trial
is remote for detachment, narrow for chosen company, winding for leisure,
lonely for contemplation.
The
trail leads not merely North or South, but upwards to the body, mind and soul
of man.’
This is the
beauty of the trail and what backpacking is all about.
Trails……..
Hiking trails – The main difference between nature
rambles, day walks and hiking or backpacking is one of degree – hikers go
further, stay out for one or more nights and carry more need-satisfying items.
The hiker must be familiar with various skills such as basic first-aid,
recognizing the signs of hypo and hyperthermia, altitude sickness, using maps
and a compass, using equipment and knowing its limitations and – most important
of all – being environmentally ‘literate”. When hiking you should be able to
use all your senses to “read” nature – wind direction, vegetation, wildlife,
insects, sounds and smells all provide clues for understanding your
surroundings.
Environmental
literacy and hiking skills develop slowly and with experience; by starting to
hike with qualified and reputable members of mountain clubs or organized clubs,
you will be pointed in the right direction.
Guided wilderness
trails – The
novice will begin trailing on a guided wilderness trail, led by an experienced
guide. The degree of fitness required is that of any healthy, keen individual
and distances covered every day are relatively short. Because the trail is
being led by an experienced person, he will modify the route, taking into
consideration the weather and his party. You carry a minimum of items, as most
of your essentials are being transported by porters, mules or jeeps. Much time
is taken up with discussions and observations in the veld – a most important
aspect. The trail officer will help you achieve orientation towards trailing –
to become aware of what you are ‘looking at’ – by imparting his knowledge of
the region, animals plants as well as the archaeology and bush lore.
Wilderness trekking – Unlike the hiker, the wilderness
trekker must carry everything he needs - including his shelter – into an
environment in which he must be able to navigate and survive.
Self-guided nature trails – These trials lead to an awareness of nature which
we have lost because we have become city orientated. The self-guided nature
trial is where you can start learning about your environment as, unburdened by
sleeping bags and tents, you can walk slowly and explore, observe and record,
using binoculars and field guides to aid your senses and expand their
potential. For many people, rambling, bird-watching, taking photos of nature or
just reaching a point and taking in sounds, scents and movements is an
incomparable high. Try it, but be beware …. Self-guided nature trials are
addictive and lead you towards the longer and more challenging hiking trials.
Equipment………..
Boots – Boots are the foundation of a comfortable hike. Buy carefully. Trail boots are always recommended.
Synthetic hiking boots: In recent years several new kind of boot have been developed. Improving on all the features of the classic hiking boot, the synthetic boots weigh little more than a pair of running shoes. Although they seldom last as long as the classic boots and cost the same, they are recommended for any trial. They are painless to break in, thus eliminating the discouraging blister period. They also reduce damage to ground cover, the first stage of the erosion process.
Leather boots: Look for full grain-uppers that are foam-padded at the ankles and have a padded ‘scree guard’ around the top for comfort. The toe and heel should be hard. The tongue should be sewn to the uppers to keep out dirt and water. Before using the leather boots on the trial, treat the leather parts with boot polish, Neatsfoot oil or a similar product. Wear them at home, in town and on short walks to break them in, so that the leather moulds to your feet. A good pair of leather boots needs at least 75 kilometers of walking to wear them in properly.
If you
participate in a variety of trails, you will find it worthwhile to own more
than one pair of boots, each of different mass and quality, saving the best
boots for the more rugged trials.
The midsoles
determines the stiffness of the boot. Climbers need very rigid boots for
support, whereas those for walkers and hikers need not be so heavy. A kilogram
of boot when worn is equal to four kilograms carried on your back! The most
popular sole now is the Vibram sole.
The fit of
the boot is critical. A poorly made or badly fitting boot not only leads to
painful blisters, but also causes the feet to tire much more quickly than a
well-fitting boot. A heavy wool outer sock should be fitted over a light cotton
or woolen sock. Push your foot forward in the unlaced boot until your toes
touch the front. There should be room to insert your index finger between the
back of the boot and your heel.
Your toes should never reach the end of the
boot, as this will cause discomfort on any downhill stretches. Even when hiking
boots get very wet – which happens frequently – never dry them next to a fire
or in direct heat. It cooks the life out of the leather. Rather allow them to
air dry, stuffed with newspaper to aid drying and to retain their shape.
Backpacks – Today most
backpacks have internal frames, although external frame packs still have their
devotees amongst experienced hikers. Each has advantages and disadvantages.
External
frame packs are stable, able to carry heavy weights or odd-shaped loads, and
are cool – the frame allows some air to flow between the back and the pack.
Internal frame packs are firm, flex to allow freedom of movement, and the
better models can be finely adjusted to fit the shape of your body perfectly.
To keep the
top of the pack from falling over backwards, look for the suspension system
type which uses the shoulder harness. Better packs have ‘load-lifter’ straps
that can be adjusted to lift the top of the shoulder straps right off your
shoulders. The only contact then is against the front of your upper chest.
As with
boots, fit your backpack in the store before buying it. Make sure the hip belt
wraps around your hips and not your waist or torso. Do not buy a pack that
rides more than 5 centimeters above your head.
Women should
be aware that most packs are designed for longer bodied men, although ‘women
only’ packs are being manufactured. These take into consideration a women’s
lower center of gravity, broader hips, narrower shoulders and shorter torso.
The bag
itself comprises a number of compartments, often with two to four pockets. Be
sure these zipped or buckled pockets are large enough for items you want handy
– water bottle, bird book, first-aid kit, camera, etc. A top loading bag is
best for over-sized and protruding loads – make certain that the storm flap that
covers the top is large enough to cover the bulkiest load that you will carry.
Front loading bags with large, zipped flaps are most accessible and easiest for
keeping your gear organized. No matter how waterproof your pack is supposed to
be, always wrap everything in plastic.
Check nylon
coil and plastic-toothed zips for clean stitching, reinforced at stress points.
Also look for quick release buckles which are not only more convenient, but
safer in some situations, such as when crossing streams. Lift tabs are also
useful as they make tightening or loosening your shoulder straps easier, which
in turn makes it easier to get a proper adjustment. This lessons back strain,
prevents blisters and gives the legs more freedom.
When loading
your bag, pack the densest items closest to your center of gravity. In other
words, place the heaviest items on top and to the back of your pack, with the
smaller items in the lower side pockets; the water bottle should be placed in
an upper side pocket.
Women should
realize that they often suffer from weight pack too high because they do not
have the upper body strength of men. This weight can interfere with arm
movement and breathing. Therefore, a good suspension system and hip belt are
essential.
A ‘moon-bag’ worn around the waist is handy for small items you are
likely to need along the way – lip salve, tissues, snacks, camera, permit and
the like – and avoid unnecessary stops to offload and open your backpack along
the trail.
Although
color is a personal choice, remember that bright colors aid identification in
dense bush, heavy mist or snow and low light intensities.
SLEEPING GEAR – The major
consideration when buying a sleeping bag should be warmth. If you plan to hike
during winter or in regions with sharp nocturnal drops in temperature, a
natural down filling is highly recommended. Down is not only light and warm but
also soft, easily compressible and capable of being stuffed into a carrying
sack for long periods. Duck (as opposed to goose) down is slightly less
efficient, but cheaper. Some manufacturers combine the two to produce a more
economical bag. The biggest drawback of any down is that it will not keep you
warm if it gets soaked. It is also allergenic and is becoming increasing
expensive.
The highest
quality man-made fiber fills, however, have none of these drawbacks and, most
importantly, will keep you warm even when wet. They dry quickly and are easily
washed at home and, being less compressible, insulate you better from the
ground. On the minus side, they are not as light or compact as down. However,
new fillings have narrowed the gap between synthetics and down considerably in
recent years.
Whichever
you choose, make sure your zip fastener is nylon, backed by a ‘draught tube’
filled with down or fiber to keep out the cold. Unless your sleeping bag is
used only in warm temperatures, you should avoid sewn through constructions,
which cause cold spots along the stitch lines. If you buy a bag for cold
weather but also plan to use it in warm weather, make sure that it has a double
zipper so that you can vent the lower end to keep cool.
Never buy a
bag made of waterproof material. When you sleep you perspire and the resultant
condensation will soak you and your bag if it cannot evaporate. The ideal
combination is a cotton inner lining with a water-repellent but breathable
nylon material used for the outside.
The shape of
the bag is also important. Mummy bags give maximum warmth, and are more compact
than standard rectangular bags. If a mattress is required, a thin, closed-cell
foam mattress is ideal, being both waterproof and very light.
A reasonably
comfortable pillow can be made by stuffing clothes into the bag used to carry
the sleeping bag during the day.
If you
intent hiking in an area where malaria is prevalent you should invest In a
lightweight mosquito net. With the current upsurge of multiple drug-resistant
strains of malaria in African countries, it makes sense to avoid being bitten
by mosquito's.
Tents - When
selecting a tent, look for one with a waterproof floor and roof and a
‘breathing’ ceiling. All quality tents used to be double-skinned, with a
ceiling of breathable nylon, having a few centimeters or more below a
waterproof fly-sheet. Body moisture pass through the ceiling, condenses on the
impermeable fly and drips of harmlessly on the outside.
There are
waterproof materials available which let out body moisture yet repel rain.
These materials are patented as Goretex, Ventex, etc. Single layer tents are
constructed from these fabrics, the 1-person tent having proofed most
successful. Today’s tents come in a multitude of shapes. Any of them is
satisfactory if it has the specifications as mentioned. However, dome or
half-dome tents will stand without pegs or guy-ropes, which make them
particularly useful where staking is difficult. Dome designs have flexible
poles which tense inside fabric sleeves, pushing outwards on the walls so as to
support the tent.
Other
features to look out for when buying a tent are tight, preferably double and
triple–row stitching; reinforced stress points, mosquito netting for doors,
windows and vent openings; and nylon zips. A 2-person backpacker’s tent should
weigh less than 3 kilogram. Good tents
are expensive but can last a lifetime, so don’t compromise on quality.
I sincerely
hope that you enjoyed reading this and that it will be of some value to you.
Willem
Pelser
Acknowledgements
‘Walks and Trials in Southern Africa’– Jaynee Levi
Drakensberg
Landscape Photos – Willem Pelser
Compiled by
Willem Pelser
