Bushmen Art….. Deep in a Mooi River Valley

Quathlamba

“A mass of Spears. Named thus by the Zulu warriors before the white man came. Today called the Drakensberg, Mountains of the Dragon, a name given by the Voortrekkers. Evocative names, both equally applicable to South Africa’s mightiest mountain range with its spear-like peaks – reminiscent of the saw-toothed spine of a gigantic dragon.”

Panorama April 1966



This blog is all about the Drakensberg Mountains and its Wilderness area, South Africa. I have lost my heart and soul to this area and every single time I hike these mountains, I stand in awe all over again at this magnificent beauty.

"How often in the course of our travels through Kwazulu-Natal do we stop and gaze at the beauty of a distant range of mountains? The Drakensberg stands as a monument to one of the greatest cataclysms the Earth has experienced. As you approach the mountains, you realize why early Zulus called it "Quathlamba", meaning “Barrier of Up-pointed Spears". A cradle of rivers. Listen to the streams as they gurgle from their cradles and you will hear the story of the mountains. You will hear fascinating tales if only you listen! Lie next to a stream and listen to the song of the mountains. The smiling faces of the flowers, dancing in the wind. Venture into the remote valleys or stand on a peak at sunrise or sunset, after snow has fallen, and you will hear a song that you will never forget - the Song of the High Mountain". (DA Dodds)

Hiking adventures, hiking gear reviews, day walks, accommodation, books, articles and photos, all related to these magnificent mountains will feature here.
Should you want to accompany me on a hike or need some information or advice, please make contact with me. I hope you enjoy the articles.
Please visit the archive for some more interesting stories, photos and reviews.

Available in the Archive (Do read it!)

1) Injasuthi to Lotheni - Epic 6 Day Hike

2) Review: Hi-Tec Altitude Pro RGS Hiking Boots

3) Drakensberg Wilderness Hiking - 14 Day Hiking trip - Lotheni Reserve (Part 3)

4) Lotheni - 14 Day Hiking Trip (Part 2)

5) Lotheni - 14 Day Hiking Trip (Part 3)

6) The Bushmen of the Drakensberg

7) Thunderstorms in the Drakensberg Mountains

8)  Before setting out on a hike………..

9)  Cathkin Peak – Drakensberg

10) Why backpack and multi-day hiking

11) Safety in the Drakensberg

12) In the Shadow of Cathedral Peak

13) Injasuthi – ‘well fed dog’

14) Lotheni Reserve

15) Garmin eTrex 10 & 20 Specs and Review

16) The birth of the Drakensberg – The Ancient Rocks

17) Drakensberg Mountains – Rock Art

18) Drakensberg Mountain Reserve Accommodation

19) Drakensberg – Mkhomazi Area – Hikers Paradise

20) Drakensberg – Hiking Kamberg – Highmoor - Kamberg, Exploring the Mooi

       River Valleys

21) Chelmsford Nature Reserve

22) Bushmen Art – Deep in a Mooi River Valley

Please note that all photos on this blog are copyright protected. If you would like to obtain
Photos please make contact with the author, Willem Pelser.

“GO OUT ALONE ON THE HILLS AND LISTEN. YOU WILL HEAR MUCH. tHE WINDS WILL HOLD FOR YOU SOMETHING MORE THAN SOUND; THE STREAMS WILL NOT BE MERELY THE BABBLING OF HURRYING WATER. tHE TREES AND THE FLOWERS ARE NOT SO separate FROM YOU AS THEY ARE AT OTHER TIMES, BUT VERY NEAR; THE SAME SUBSTANCE, THE SAME rhythm, THE SAME SONG BINDS YOU TO THEM. aLONE AMIDST NATURE, A MAN LEARNS TO BE ONE WITH ALL AND ALL WITH ONE.”

FRANK S. SMYTHE

Bushmen Art…..

Deep in a Mooi River Valley

   Through the years, doing my solo hiking in the Drakensberg Wilderness, I have found many hidden away caves which contained Bushmen Art. To me, it is a unique and special experience. I always try and transfer my mind back hundreds of years and try and imagine what it was living during that period, and what a magnificent place the Drakensberg Wilderness must have been then, totally unspoiled by human hand.

    It is well know that the Bushmen did not do any damage to their environment, they only hunted what they needed to survive and gathered from nature to feed their families. The arrival of the white man in the area changed all of that and eventually led to the extermination of the Bushmen and wildlife.

  Bible in one hand, rifle in the other, proclaiming their Christianity, the white men destroyed what they found. Forest were decimated, wildlife killed for no rhyme or reason (or real need) and the Bushmen were hunted like vermin to the last man, women and child.

   The Bushmen had a simple life, being hunter/gatherers in a land of plenty. For hundreds of years they were the sole custodians of the Drakensberg Wilderness. What a life it must have been!

   The Drakensberg provided the Bushmen with shelter, plenty of water, meat and edible plants. Once the white man destroyed the wildlife, the Bushmen had to resort to stealing cattle from the settlers, which needless to say, led to great conflict.

   The Bushmen portrayed their life on the walls of their shelters by painting the walls. It is believed that these paintings was done by a shaman and was trance induced. It is clear from the numerous paintings that they held the Eland (Antelope) in great regard.

   Some paintings also depict general life and some historical happenings which took place. It saddens me to see the destruction in some caves - being done by modern man – vandalizing pictures hundreds and thousands of years old. It is therefore true to say that some people still share the mentality of the first white men in the Drakensberg. Why does a person feel the need to destroy something so unique and special? If you do not like what you see, or do not agree with history, it is a simple process – walk away and do not touch!

   In September 2015 I did a 6 day hike from Kamberg to Highmoor, up to the Escarpment, and then exploring the Mooi River Valley from top to bottom. On day 4, I found a cave purely by chance. This cave was absolutely full of Bushmen paintings, the like of which I have never found or saw before. It was a spectacular find! It took me close to two hours to photograph all the paintings in the cave. The cave itself was massive; and as usual it had its own private water supply and had magnificent views over the valley. It was obvious that this cave was a shelter to a big group of Bushmen for a very long time. This find made my hike even more of a superb experience!

   By the late 1800’s, the Bushmen were exterminated and was never seen again in the Drakensberg. All that remained of their existence are the paintings in the shelters used by them. Now, that is also very ironic – when the area was declared as reserves, the farmers had to move, and the ugly scars of their impact on the land remains to this day!

   I would like to share some of the pictures that I took inside this cave with you. The cave is there, but you will have to go and explore the area and find it like I did. It is a brilliant experience and you can view the paintings and ponder about life as it was then.

   These Bushmen paintings are an absolute part of the Drakensberg Wilderness and its rich history. We are the only custodians of this art and we need to protect and conserve the paintings. We have to keep the mindless vandals away from the art and we have to do something when we find those willing to destroy age old history. The art withstood the elements for thousands of years, but unfortunately, they cannot withstand the destructive force of man.
     When you do find these caves with the paintings, enjoy them and treat it with the respect which it deserves. If you do not like the paintings, simply do not go to the caves, and if, you find a cave on a hike, keep on by!

The End.

 

Willem Pelser (The Mountain Man)