Quathlamba
“A
mass of Spears. Named thus by the Zulu warriors before the white man came.
Today called the Drakensberg, Mountains of the Dragon, a name given by the
Voortrekkers. Evocative names, both equally applicable to South Africa’s
mightiest mountain range with its spear-like peaks – reminiscent of the
saw-toothed spine of a gigantic dragon.”
Panorama April 1966
This blog is all about the Drakensberg Mountains and its Wilderness area, South Africa. I have lost my heart and soul to this area and every single time I hike these mountains, I stand in awe all over again at this magnificent beauty.
"Listen to the streams as they gurgle from their cradles and you will hear the story of the mountains. You will hear fascinating tales if only you listen! Lie next to a stream and listen to the song of the mountains. The smiling faces of the flowers, dancing in the wind. Venture into the remote valleys or stand on a peak at sunrise or sunset, after snow has fallen, and you will hear a song that you will never forget - the Song of the High Mountain". (DA Dodds)
Hiking adventures, hiking gear reviews, day walks, accommodation, books, articles and photos, all related to these magnificent mountains will feature here.
Should you want to accompany me on a hike, or need some information or advice, please make contact with me. I hope you enjoy the articles.
Please visit the archive for some more interesting stories, photos and reviews.
Please note that all photos on this blog are copyright protected. If you would like to obtain
Photos please make contact with the author, Willem Pelser.
“THEY SHALL DWELL SAFELY IN
THE WILDERNESS AND SLEEP
IN THE WOODS,
AND NONE SHALL MAKE
THEM AFRAID”
BOOK OF THE PROPHET EZEKIEL
WILDLIFE OF THE DRAKENSBERG
THE STORY OF THE ELAND
Eland, Lotheni Reserve
There are
literally hundreds of species of wild flowers, trees and ferns in the
Drakensberg. The birdlife is fantastic and on these rolling hills roam eland,
Oribi, mountain reedbuck and grey rhebok, and on the high ledges of the
mountains the shy little klipspringer browses.
When the Giant’s Castle Reserve was first
proclaimed in 1903, its main objective was to provide a sanctuary for the fast
disappearing eland, one of the noblest, and certainly the largest, of South
Africa’s antelopes. At one time it was the commonest antelope in the
Drakensberg. We know this from accounts of early hunters and also from the
Bushman paintings that adorn the cave walls in the sandstone cliffs of the
Little Berg, where the eland is the commonest animal depicted. But by the turn
of the century the herds that roamed these mountain solitudes in peace and
security were gone and the numbers were down to a meager 200 individuals. It
was considered that in 1900 there were only 20 left in the area of the present
reserve.
Baboon foraging
The eland,
Taurotragus oryx, (the Zulu name is Impofu), is 150 cm to 180 cm in height,
about the size of a large ox, and a weight in the Drakensberg of up to 452 kg.
This is considerably less than the weight - up to 820 kg – of eland found in
other parts of Africa. He is buff colored, turning to grey as he grows older.
He has a very distinct black vertical stripe from his horns to the root of his
tail, and long, hanging dewlaps. Both sexes have fairly long, spiraled horns.
The eland is both a grazer and a browser, and is particular to Buddleia
salvifolia and Halleria lucida. In his wild state he is nervous and wary. If a
herd of eland spots you – they have excellent eyesight – they will stand still
for a few moments and then make off at a brisk trot, either up a slope or round
the shoulder of a hill, seldom downhill. Their call is a low, barking note.
Although a large animal, the eland is not aggressive. In spite of their great
size they are excellent jumpers, and will easily clear a two-meter fence.
Eland herd at Lotheni Reserve
The Drakensberg
eland are of especial importance, because they are directly descended from the
original eland of that particular district. In the Sudan there is a giant
species Taurotragus derbianus gigas, which can weigh up to 1000 kg.
Today, in Kzn, they occur from Giant’s Castle
south to Cobham. Under former natural conditions it is almost certain that they
used to winter in the Thornveld, spending only their summer in the Drakensberg,
but owning to increased hunting and the opening up of the Midlands of Natal to
early settlers, they sought permanent refuge in the Drakensberg.
Lotheni Reserve
They are, however, great wanderers, and the
Natal Parks Board at one stage erected a strong 220 cm 10-strand eland fence
around the Reserve. With their great jumping ability it did little to restrict
the movement of the eland, however, and when the fence fell into disrepair it
was not replaced.
In 1958 two eland were killed in the Upper
uThukela Location, between Cathedral Peak and the Royal Natal National Park.
They were probably following their old instinct of migrating to the Thornveld.
The concentration of eland in the Drakensberg throughout the year does not
cause problems of overstocking or overgrazing because of the high calf
mortality. This is as high as 60 percent, and is due to the poor nutrition of
young animals in the harsh mountain environment.
The eland is generally a docile animal. Even
bulls in captivity rarely become vicious, although one should remain cautious
and vigilant near any ”wild” animal.
Eland Family with calf - Lotheni
Eland meat is
tender and most palatable. As far back as 1848 it was proposed that the eland
should be domesticated.
Actually there have been several attempts at
domesticating the eland. A notable one was made at Askanya Nova, in southern
Russia, in 1895, where a good deal of useful information was collected. In 1954
a small herd was established at Zezani, in the heart of Zimbabwe Mopane
country. It was soon found that the eland would flourish in an area quite
unsuitable to cattle, and the opinion was formed that eland meat was equal, if
not superior, to beef.
Here in the Drakensberg the first attempts to
domesticate the eland were made as far back as 1907. A number of calves were
caught and sent to Cedera. Nothing came from this attempt, but a year or so later
calves were supplied to several farmers in the Natal Midlands, notably to
Andrew Sclanders and the Moe brothers at New Hanover. The Moe’s were the most
successful in achieving results, and one of the brothers actually rode an eland
round the show ring at an agricultural show!
Thendele – Royal Natal National Park
A most ambitious experiment was carried out
by the Natal Parks Board at Lotheni, on the southern slopes of Giant’s Castle.
Here an eland domestication unit was established some years ago and the eland
was studied. The herd reached about 40 head, and valuable information was
obtained concerning the growth and handling of the domesticated animal.
It has already been proved that the eland can
be domesticated, that the meat is excellent, and that eland farming can be
carried on successfully in areas to dry for conventional cattle farming. The
Russian experiment showed that small, selected herds soon deteriorated through
inbreeding, and the present small numbers of eland preclude the possibility of
larger domesticated herds. However, the eland has not caught the attention of
the rancher, who still finds it easier to raise cattle.
Today, in the Giant’s Castle Game Reserve, and in
the area south of Giant’s Castle, the eland is flourishing. From being on the
danger list, numbers have now increased to a figure which makes the future of
the eland assured. (Poaching however, have increased, and due to the vastness
of the area and lack of rangers, goes on unabated and without fear of
prosecution – Willem Pelser.)
Mid-winter, Lotheni Reserve
There is no doubt that KZN Wildlife, has done
magnificent work, not only in the establishment and running of its game
reserves (there are more than 40 game and nature reserves in KZN) but in
control of wildlife generally, and in restocking the reserves with species that
had died out.
But there are significant dangers ahead. There
are some who hold that prior to the European settlement of the country, the
game was largely migratory in character. Animals rarely wintered in the
Drakensberg, preferring the sweeter grass and warmer valleys of the Thornveld.
The inferior size of the Drakensberg eland underlines this. Today, with our
fences, our railroads and highways, our ploughed lands, our developing towns
and cities, migration is impossible, and the game is confined to one area all
the year round. This leads to damage through overgrazing. Once man interferes
in any way whatever with the delicate balance of nature, the result is
dangerous. Chain reactions set in, with incalculable results. Damage due to
overgrazing could lead inevitably to eventual paddocking and artificial
feeding, and the game reserve would be reduced in status to that of a glorified
zoo. If this happens it will have been I direct consequence of the tourist’s
desire to see game, for the species being introduced are in little danger of
dying out. In other words, it is apparently the profit motive which is
dominant, and the results would be that fauna would be protected at the expense
of flora.
Lotheni Reserve
This clash of interest between the demands of
the tourist industry and the demands of the nature conservationists is ever-
present one. When our game reserves were first proclaimed they were designed
purely for the protection and conservation of game. It was only later that
tourists started clamoring to see game. In America this tendency has reached
alarming proportions. The Yosemite National Park in California is visited by
thousands of tourists a day, whose noise practically drowns out even the
thunder of the Yosemite Falls! The Kruger National Park, with its huge camps,
its stores and restaurants, its tarred roads and its filling stations, is in
danger of going the same way. So far, in KwaZulu-Natal this pressure has been
largely resisted. There should be no roads in the reserves, apart from the
access road. There has been some moderate expansion and modernization of hutted
camp facilities but it has generally been sympathetic to the environment. Man
should be prepared to go out on the two legs God gave him, carrying his food on
his back, and glad to make the effort needed to enjoy what nature has to offer.
Should we
make a distinction between reserves and recreational areas? Nature Reserves,
certainly, should be primarily for wildlife and environmental conservation.
They can be used for outdoor recreation within reason, but they should be kept
primarily for the genuine lover of nature. Fortunately, the Parks authority
makes this distinction, but our Drakensberg hotel resorts are losing their
original purpose. These resorts have been invaded by a motley crowd who wanted
little more than their bowls, their tennis and their golf, their cards and
their sundowners. They rarely lift their eyes to the mountains, they rarely
venture into them, and never once do they feel their hearts stir with wonder
and delight at the wilderness around them. Tennis and bowls and golf are first
class and worthwhile recreations, but our Drakensberg hotels, originally at
least, were designed mainly for lovers of nature, hikers and mountaineers.
Herd at Lotheni Reserve
In his annual report for 1967/1968 Dr. D. Hey,
former director of Nature Conservation for the Cape, said: ‘It is most
important to reduce the public pressure on nature reserves and national parks
by providing recreational facilities elsewhere for those who are not particularly
interested in wildlife, but merely wish to relax out-of-doors. It is quite
possible for a nature reserve to be destroyed by an excessive number of
visitors.” He could not have put it more clearly. Let us at least keep our
Drakensberg Reserves inviolable from this sort of thing.
Man has got to
do a lot of rethinking if he is to survive. In the past he has adopted the
arrogant assumption that he is apart from the animal kingdom, sole owner of the
world in which he lives, that he is Lord of Creation and can do what he likes
with his environment. Since 1600 the world has lost 101 species of birds and 46
mammalian species, 44 of the former and 27 of the latter within the last 50
years. And year after year he spews out, at an increasing rate, his polluting
gases into the atmosphere and his filth into the oceans.
Antelope at Thendele, Royal Natal National Park
Man is not a distinct entity. He is and inseparable
part of the whole of nature, and you, and I, and all the creatures of the wild,
are fellow travelers, with a common goal, a common destiny, and a common fate
on a small and very vulnerable planet travelling through the depths of space.
Safe Hiking.
The End.
Willem
Pelser – The Mountain Man
Acknowledgements and References
Extract from
the book - ‘BARRIER OF SPEARS’ – RO
Spears
Photos – Willem Pelser
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