Quathlamba
“A
mass of Spears. Named thus by the Zulu warriors before the white man came.
Today called the Drakensberg, Mountains of the Dragon, a name given by the
Voortrekkers. Evocative names, both equally applicable to South Africa’s
mightiest mountain range with its spear-like peaks – reminiscent of the
saw-toothed spine of a gigantic dragon.”
Panorama April 1966
“Listen to the streams as they gurgle from their cradles and you will hear the story of the mountains. You will hear fascinating tales if only you listen! Lie next to a stream and listen to the song of the mountains. The smiling faces of the flowers, dancing in the wind. Venture into the remote valleys or stand on a peak at sunrise or sunset, after snow has fallen, and you will hear a song that you will never forget - the Song of the High Mountain". (DA Dodds)
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“THESE MOUNTAINS OF UP-POINTED SPEARS
HOLD ELAND, ORIBI AND RHEBOK
CAPERING OVER YELLOW ROCK
TO SANDSTONE CAVES THAT FORM A BARRIER….
THE REAL SUNSET STARTS TO FLOW
ACROSS THIS SWEEPING MOUNTAIN RANGE
AND STILL, DESPITE TEN CENTURIES’ CHANGE
HIKING REMAINS A KIND OF HUNT
ELIMINATING FEAR AND CANT”
The Sani Pass
Drakensberg
GARDEN CASTLE
Mokhotlong, situated in the
north-eastern section of Lesotho, was one of the most isolated settlements in
Africa. Before Moshoeshoe founded the Basotho nation on Thaba Bosiu, Matiwane
and his followers had already settled near the present village of Mokhotlong,
after fleeing from Shaka’s marauding armies.
Nestling in
a rugged, mountainous terrain about 2 255 metres above sea-level, this lonely
outpost was virtually unknown to the world. The name was derived from the word
Mo-khootlo, which in Sesotho is the name of the Bald-Ibis. Until the end of the
Second World War no roads, telephones or postal services were in existence,
only a bridle path down the Sani Pass into Natal. The alternative was a long,
mountainous journey on horseback to Maseru, the capital of Lesotho. This ride
took about a week if the weather permitted. During the winter months the route
was often made impassable by blizzards and snow storms. In summer the
difficulty in crossing swollen rivers also presented a problem. Basotho farmers
transported their wool, mohair and hides on pack animals down the Sani Pass to
Himeville in KZN or down the Ntonjelana Pass to a store in the Mnweni Valley in
KZN. Some ventured as far as Witzieshoek via the Namahadi Pass to exchange
their goods.
In mid-September
1955 David Alexander pioneered the first motor transport service from Himeville
in KZN , up the tortuous Sani Pass, across the Sani summit plateau, over the
Black Mountains and finally to Mokhotlong. At last north-eastern Lesotho was
linked to KZN by road.
To cross
the Black Mountains the road follows the Sehonghong River and finally ends in
Mokhotlong. This journey from Himeville is about 72, 5 kilometres in all and is
the highest road in Southern Africa. In 1958 an enterprising company, realizing
the value of the pass as a tourist attraction, built the Sani Pass Hotel. The
original road was then improved. A mountaineers’ chalet was built on the top of
the Pass and trips was organized up the Sani Pass and into Lesotho. This has
proved a popular area for ski-ing during winter months when the snow can be
fairly deep.
WINTER MORNING: DRAKENSBERG GARDEN
A new
mountain trail, which is now a road, was blazed from Mokhotlong to Buta-Bute.
Leaving Mokhotlong and travelling in a north-westerly direction the road crosses
the Popa Mountains and runs parallel to the Khubedu River to the Letseng La
Terae Diamond Mine. From there it traverses the high Maluti Range and crosses
the Malibamatso River near Oxbow and down the Moteng Pass to Buta-Bute.
The Roof of
Africa Rally uses this track from Maseru to Sani, which certainly must be one
of the toughest courses in the world.
Anyone who
has visited the Sani Pass Hotel, or driven along the road from Himeville to
Underberg must have seen Hodgsons’ Peaks which lie to the south of the top of
the Sani Pass.
The twin
peaks derived the name after an incident which took place in 1862, when cattle
and horses were stolen from Robert Spier’s farm, Mount Park. A full-scale
commando was organized. The force proceeded up the Lotheni and ascended the
Hlatimba Pass into the fastnesses of Lesotho. For eight days this party
searched for the missing cattle as well as for signs of the Bushman Raiders.
Then, after riding in a wide circle, they returned to a point near the edge of
the escarpment at the source of the Umzimkulu River which is near the Rhino,
Walker and Wilson Peaks in the present day Drakensberg Gardens Hotel area.
Suddenly the party saw a mounted Bushman and after a chase a Bushman boy of
about 15 years old was wounded and captured.
LOOKING UP THE MASHAI PASS FROM PILLAR CAVE
During the
chase Thomas Hodgson was accidentally shot in the thigh by one of his comrades.
Four men were left to care for their wounded comrade whose condition became
serious. The rest of the party headed for home because their provisions were
almost exhausted and help was needed. Robert Speirs, who was one of those
chosen to remain with Hodgson, went with the party to the top of the pass to
show them the way down before returning to the wounded man. The storm clouds
had gathered and a severe thunder storm forced him to spend the night in a rock
shelter.
Back at the camp Thomas Hodgson had died and was buried by
the three men who had stayed behind to look after him. Once they had buried
him, they departed. Next morning Robert Speirs returned to the camp and found
Hodgson’s grave surmounted by a pile of rocks. To his horror his comrades had
gone and had taken his horse with them.
It was
still raining and the mountain was shrouded in mist when he began his long
journey home on foot. Wet and cold he walked that day and night until he
reached the bottom of the Pass. Then on and on he walked through rough
mountainous country, living on birds, grasshoppers, ants and a dassie. He even
resorted to eating bulbs and Erica flowers. Eventually he arrived back at
Impendhle after 14 days of hard walking.
VIEW FROM THE TOP OF MASHAI PASS
A year later a cairn was built on the
site where Hodgson died. Today the twin peaks immortalize Thomas Hodgson and
are a grim reminder of the tragedy of 1862.
Leaving
Underberg and travelling along the Umzimkulu River towards the Drakensberg
Garden Hotel one is transported to a beautiful pastoral region where the cattle
graze on the grasslands and the cultivated fields are scattered like patchwork
in the grasslands. In the valleys the willows line the rivers. In autumn the
view is breath-taking when these willows and the poplars turn to gold against a
backdrop of misty blue mountains.
THE RHINO
In this fickle atmosphere
the weather is unpredictable. There are days when the peaks are draped with
clouds. On other days snake-like mists flow in and out of the valleys while the
hilltops look down on the procession. Sometimes the heavens open and the water
flowing off the slopes of the mountain looks like mercury as it catches the
reflection of the sun’s rays. The most wonderful days of all are those after
snow has fallen. Then there is a silence that can only be experienced in the
mountains.
From the
Drakensberg Garden Hotel there are many delightful walks. The most popular of
the walks is to follow the Umzimkulu River, past the Mermaid’s Pool to Pillar
Cave and then to ascend the Mashai Pass. From the top of this Pass an easy
scramble brings one to the summit of the Rhino.
MASHAI PASS
From the
Pillar Cave the Mashai Fangs can be seen to the south-west of the Mashai Pass.
From the
Mashai Pass only Walker Peak, Wilson Peak, Umzimouti Peak, Thamathu, Thaba
Ngwangwane and the Devil’s Knuckcles can be seen looming over the valleys of
the southern KZN Drakensberg.
A truly
spectacular Wilderness area. Dust off your boots!!
The End.
Safe Hiking.
References and Acknowledgements
Photos – A Cradle of Rivers – The Natal Drakensberg
Compiled by - W Pelser – From the Book – A Cradle of Rivers – The Natal Drakensberg – DA
Dodds
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