Quathlamba
“A
mass of Spears. Named thus by the Zulu warriors before the white man came.
Today called the Drakensberg, Mountains of the Dragon. Evocative names, both
equally applicable to South Africa’s mightiest mountain range with its
spear-like peaks – reminiscent of the saw-toothed spine of a gigantic dragon.”
“Listen to the streams as they gurgle from their cradles
and you will hear the story of the mountains. You will hear fascinating tales
if only you listen! Lie next to a stream and listen to the song of the
mountains. The smiling faces of the flowers, dancing in the wind. Venture into
the remote valleys or stand on a peak at sunrise or sunset, after snow has fallen,
and you will hear a song that you will never forget - the Song of the High
Mountain".
DRAKENSBERG WILDERNESS PHOTOS ©
WILLEM PELSER
“TRIALS ARE NOT DUST AND PEBBLES ON A HILL. NOR EVEN GRASS
AND WILD BUDS BY A LAKE;
TRAILS ARE ADVENTURE AND A HAND TO
STILL THE RESTLESS PULSE OF LIFE, WHEN MEN WOULD BREAK THEIR MINDS WITH WEIGHT
OF THINKING. TRAILS ARE PEACE, THE CALL TO DREAMS, THE CHALLENGE TO ASCENT;
TRAILS ARE THE BRISK UNFOLDING OF RELEASE FROM BITTERNESS AND DISCOURAGEMENT.”
UNKNOWN
BEFORE SETTING OUT ON A WILDERNESS HIKE…….
It will be idyllic to venture onto the trail clad in
t-shirts and shorts, with no goodies on our backs or hanging from our necks or
shoulders. Idyllic - but impractical - and also impossible, for this would
imply ‘living of the land’ to survive. Not only are we ill-equipped for such
adventuring, but also destroying wild plants and animals both for food and
shelter are ‘luxuries” that modern man can no longer afford. Whether we like it
or not we are products of 20th century society – seeking recreation on a
shrinking planet. When we leave the security of our homes to go trailing,
whether on foot, horseback, in a canoe or on a mountain bike, we must cater
constantly for our needs – hunger, thirst, protection from heat or cold, sleep,
cleanliness and safety – and, of course, our curiosity. Since we can no longer
live off the land, or interfere with it, we must prepare ourselves like an
astronaut does for a space mission. We must venture into the wild carrying all
our creature comforts in a backpack, taking care to leave as little trace of
our passage as possible. This is the new wilderness ethic. The technology of
our space probing era has produced an array of food, equipment, clothing, and
first aid items that are very compact, lightweight, efficient and simple to
use.
PHYSICAL AND MENTAL FITNESS………
A basic fact is that the fitter you are, the
more you will enjoy trailing and hiking. Fitness is twofold: fitness of the
heart (especially important for backpacking, in the legs and knees, lower back
and arms, and the upper body.) Cardiovascular fitness is simply how efficiently
your heart-lung machine can use oxygen to supply energy to the working muscles.
You inherit 90% of your fitness potential, while the remainder can be developed
by endurance exercises such as jogging, cycling, and swimming. However, the
best sport to get your heart tuned for hiking is hiking. The best way to
strengthen muscles used to carry packs is backpacking. Another type of fitness
develops from trail use – mental fitness. A hike should both be a mental and
physical challenge – you ought to feel a sense of achievement, a “Wow, I made
it!” To many hikers the feeling of complete independence, self-reliance and
solitude is as ex-hilarating as the breathtaking scenic beauty experienced on
most trails.
To those who have never hiked the trail can be
many things – wonderful, pleasant, unpleasant, harrowing or disastrous. Some
hikers emerge from the mountains with the scent of bushes and ferns on their
clothing and dust on their boots – enriched physically and mentally. Others
stumble out exhausted, footsore, sunburnt, dehydrated, or soaked to the skin –
sadder but wiser for their ordeal. Others are even less fortunate, but
basically the outcome of these ventures depends largely on the hiker: proper
preparation, clothing and equipment, good physical condition and common sense.
How far can I walk? Here are some guidelines:
33 km a day if you are in top shape and want to see
everything in a blur.
25 km a day if you are in pretty good shape and do not
dawdle.
20 km a day if you are in poor shape and are intend on
suffering.
10 to 15 km a day if you are in fair shape and want to
enjoy yourself.
5 km a day if your companion is an attractive person
and you both enjoy flowers!
Remember that the trail is not a suitable place for
anyone who considers it a loss of face should he decide to turn back when
conditions require it; and it is no place for backbiting or sensitivity over
small slights. Most of the fun you have from backpacking depends on mental
attitude.
From the American Harold Allen:
‘A trial is remote for detachment, narrow for chosen
company, winding for leisure, lonely for contemplation.
The trail leads not merely North or South, but upwards to
the body, mind and soul of man.’
This is the beauty of the trail and what backpacking is
all about.
Trails……..
Hiking trails – The main difference between nature
rambles, day walks and hiking or backpacking is one of degree – hikers go
further, stay out for one or more nights and carry more need-satisfying items.
The hiker must be familiar with various skills such as basic first-aid,
recognizing the signs of hypo and hyperthermia, altitude sickness, using maps
and a compass, using equipment and knowing its limitations and – most important
of all – being environmentally ‘literate”. When hiking you should be able to
use all your senses to “read” nature – wind direction, vegetation, wildlife,
insects, sounds and smells all provide clues for understanding your
surroundings.
Environmental literacy and hiking skills develop slowly
and with experience; by starting to hike with qualified and reputable members
of mountain clubs or organized clubs, you will be pointed in the right
direction.
Guided
wilderness trails – The novice will
begin trailing on a guided wilderness trail, led by an experienced guide. The
degree of fitness required is that of any healthy, keen individual and
distances covered every day are relatively short. Because the trail is being
led by an experienced person, he will modify the route, taking into
consideration the weather and his party. You carry a minimum of items, as most
of your essentials are being transported by porters, mules or jeeps. Much time
is taken up with discussions and observations in the veld – a most important
aspect. The trail officer will help you achieve orientation towards trailing –
to become aware of what you are ‘looking at’ – by imparting his knowledge of
the region, animals plants as well as the archaeology and bush lore.
Wilderness
trekking – Unlike the hiker,
the wilderness trekker must carry everything he needs - including his shelter –
into an environment in which he must be able to navigate and survive.
Self-guided
nature trails – These trials lead
to an awareness of nature which we have lost because we have become city
orientated. The self-guided nature trial is where you can start learning about
your environment as, unburdened by sleeping bags and tents, you can walk slowly
and explore, observe and record, using binoculars and field guides to aid your
senses and expand their potential. For many people, rambling, bird-watching,
taking photos of nature or just reaching a point and taking in sounds, scents
and movements is an incomparable high. Try it, but be beware …. Self-guided
nature trials are addictive and lead you towards the longer and more
challenging hiking trials.
Equipment………..
Boots – Boots are the
foundation of a comfortable hike. Buy carefully. Trail boots are always
recommended.
Synthetic
hiking boots: In recent years
several new kind of boot have been developed. Improving on all the features of
the classic hiking boot, the synthetic boots weigh little more than a pair of
running shoes. Although they seldom last as long as the classic boots and cost
the same, they are recommended for any trial. They are painless to break in,
thus eliminating the discouraging blister period. They also reduce damage to
ground cover, the first stage of the erosion process.
Leather boots: Look for full grain-uppers that are
foam-padded at the ankles and have a padded ‘scree guard’ around the top for
comfort. The toe and heel should be hard. The tongue should be sewn to the
uppers to keep out dirt and water. Before using the leather boots on the trial,
treat the leather parts with boot polish, Neatsfoot oil or a similar product.
Wear them at home, in town and on short walks to break them in, so that the
leather moulds to your feet. A good pair of leather boots needs at least 75
kilometers of walking to wear them in properly.
If you participate in a variety of trails, you
will find it worthwhile to own more than one pair of boots, each of different
mass and quality, saving the best boots for the more rugged trials.
The midsoles determines the stiffness of the
boot. Climbers need very rigid boots for support, whereas those for walkers and
hikers need not be so heavy. A kilogram of boot when worn is equal to four
kilograms carried on your back! The most popular sole now is the Vibram sole.
The fit of the boot is critical. A poorly made
or badly fitting boot not only leads to painful blisters, but also causes the
feet to tire much more quickly than a well-fitting boot. A heavy wool outer
sock should be fitted over a light cotton or woolen sock. Push your foot
forward in the unlaced boot until your toes touch the front. There should be
room to insert your index finger between the back of the boot and your heel.
Your toes should never reach the end of the boot, as this will cause discomfort
on any downhill stretches. Even when hiking boots get very wet – which happens
frequently – never dry them next to a fire or in direct heat. It cooks the life
out of the leather. Rather allow them to air dry, stuffed with newspaper to aid
drying and to retain their shape.
Backpacks – Today most backpacks have internal
frames, although external frame packs still have their devotees amongst
experienced hikers. Each has advantages and disadvantages.
External frame packs are stable, able to carry heavy
weights or odd-shaped loads, and are cool – the frame allows some air to flow
between the back and the pack. Internal frame packs are firm, flex to allow
freedom of movement, and the better models can be finely adjusted to fit the
shape of your body perfectly.
Whether you choose a soft pack or an external frame
model, buy one which has a firm, foam padded hip belt and adjustable shoulder
straps. The hip belt takes much of the load from your shoulders and the padding
is essential to prevent sore, bruised muscles and bones.
To keep the top of the pack from falling over
backwards, look for the suspension system type which uses the shoulder harness.
Better packs have ‘load-lifter’ straps that can be adjusted to lift the top of
the shoulder straps right off your shoulders. The only contact then is against
the front of your upper chest.
As with boots, fit your backpack in the store
before buying it. Make sure the hip belt wraps around your hips and not your
waist or torso. Do not buy a pack that rides more than 5 centimeters above your
head.
Women should be aware that most packs are
designed for longer bodied men, although ‘women only’ packs are being
manufactured. These take into consideration a women’s lower center of gravity,
broader hips, narrower shoulders and shorter torso.
The bag itself comprises a number of
compartments, often with two to four pockets. Be sure these zipped or buckled
pockets are large enough for items you want handy – water bottle, bird book,
first-aid kit, camera, etc. A top loading bag is best for over-sized and
protruding loads – make certain that the storm flap that covers the top is
large enough to cover the bulkiest load that you will carry. Front loading bags
with large, zipped flaps are most accessible and easiest for keeping your gear
organized. No matter how waterproof your pack is supposed to be, always wrap
everything in plastic.
Check nylon coil and plastic-toothed zips for
clean stitching, reinforced at stress points. Also look for quick release
buckles which are not only more convenient, but safer in some situations, such
as when crossing streams. Lift tabs are also useful as they make tightening or
loosening your shoulder straps easier, which in turn makes it easier to get a
proper adjustment. This lessons back strain, prevents blisters and gives the
legs more freedom.
When loading your bag, pack the densest items
closest to your center of gravity. In other words, place the heaviest items on
top and to the back of your pack, with the smaller items in the lower side
pockets; the water bottle should be placed in an upper side pocket.
Women should realize that they often suffer from
weight pack too high because they do not have the upper body strength of men.
This weight can interfere with arm movement and breathing. Therefore, a good suspension
system and hip belt are essential. A ‘moonbag’ worn around the waist is handy
for small items you are likely to need along the way – lip salve, tissues,
snacks, camera, permit and the like – and avoid unnecessary stops to offload
and open your backpack along the trail.
Although color is a personal choice, remember that
bright colors aid identification in dense bush, heavy mist or snow and low
light intensities.
SLEEPING GEAR – The major consideration when buying a
sleeping bag should be warmth. If you plan to hike during winter or in regions
with sharp nocturnal drops in temperature, a natural down filling is highly
recommended. Down is not only light and warm but also soft, easily compressible
and capable of being stuffed into a carrying sack for long periods. Duck (as
opposed to goose) down is slightly less efficient, but cheaper. Some
manufacturers combine the two to produce a more economical bag. The biggest
drawback of any down is that it will not keep you warm if it gets soaked. It is
also allergenic and is becoming increasing expensive.
The highest quality man-made fiber fills,
however, have none of these drawbacks and, most importantly, will keep you warm
even when wet. They dry quickly and are easily washed at home and, being less
compressible, insulate you better from the ground. On the minus side, they are
not as light or compact as down. However, new fillings have narrowed the gap
between synthetics and down considerably in recent years.
Whichever you choose, make sure your zip fastener is
nylon, backed by a ‘draught tube’ filled with down or fiber to keep out the
cold. Unless your sleeping bag is used only in warm temperatures, you should
avoid sewn through constructions, which cause cold spots along the stitch
lines. If you buy a bag for cold weather but also plan to use it in warm
weather, make sure that it has a double zipper so that you can vent the lower
end to keep cool.
Never buy a bag made of waterproof material. When
you sleep you perspire and the resultant condensation will soak you and your
bag if it cannot evaporate. The ideal combination is a cotton inner lining with
a water-repellent but breathable nylon material used for the outside.
The shape of the bag is also important. Mummy
bags give maximum warmth, and are more compact than standard rectangular bags.
If a mattress is required, a thin, closed-cell foam mattress is ideal, being
both waterproof and very light.
A reasonably comfortable pillow can be made
by stuffing clothes into the bag used to carry the sleeping bag during the day.
If
you intent hiking in an
area where malaria is prevalent you should invest In a lightweight mosquito
net. With the current upsurge of multiple drug-resistant strains of malaria in
African countries, it makes sense to avoid being bitten by mosquitos.
Tents - When selecting a tent, look for one with
a waterproof floor and roof and a ‘breathing’ ceiling. All quality tents used
to be double-skinned, with a ceiling of breathable nylon, having a few
centimeters or more below a waterproof fly-sheet. Body moisture pass through
the ceiling, condenses on the impermeable fly and drips of harmlessly on the
outside.
There are waterproof materials available which
let out body moisture yet repel rain. These materials are patented as Goretex,
Ventex, etc. Single layer tents are constructed from these fabrics, the
1-person tent having proofed most successful. Today’s tents come in a multitude
of shapes. Any of them is satisfactory if it has the specifications as
mentioned. However, dome or half-dome tents will stand without pegs or
guy-ropes, which make them particularly useful where staking is difficult. Dome
designs have flexible poles which tense inside fabric sleeves, pushing outwards
on the walls so as to support the tent.
Other features to look out for when buying a tent
are tight, preferably double, and triple–row stitching; reinforced stress
points, mosquito netting for doors, windows and vent openings; and nylon zips.
A 2-person backpacker’s tent should weigh less than 3 kilogram. Good tents are expensive but can last a
lifetime, so don’t compromise on quality.
The End.
Safe Hiking.
References and Acknowledgements
From the book – ‘Walks
and Trials in Southern Africa’– Jaynee Levi
Photos:
Willem Pelser
Compiled by Willem
Pelser
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