Quathlamba
“A
mass of Spears. Named thus by the Zulu warriors before the white man came.
Today called the Drakensberg, Mountains of the Dragon. Evocative names, both
equally applicable to South Africa’s mightiest mountain range with its
spear-like peaks – reminiscent of the saw-toothed spine of a gigantic dragon.”
“Listen to the streams as they gurgle from their cradles
and you will hear the story of the mountains. You will hear fascinating tales
if only you listen! Lie next to a stream and listen to the song of the
mountains. The smiling faces of the flowers, dancing in the wind. Venture into
the remote valleys or stand on a peak at sunrise or sunset, after snow has fallen,
and you will hear a song that you will never forget - the Song of the High
Mountain".
DRAKENSBERG WILDERNESS PHOTOS ©
WILLEM PELSER
“NO TIME CAN EVER RETURN OTHER THAN IN THE REMEMBERING. FOR ME, THE MEMORY
IS ENORMOUS……IT WASHES THROUGH ME IN A MIX OF FEELINGS, SOUNDS, AND SIGHTS……..”
WILLEM PELSER
LOTHENI RESERVE
DRAKENSBERG
Lotheni is situated in the
uKhahlamba-Drakensberg Park, South Africa’s first cultural and environmental
World Heritage Site.
Lotheni is a magnificent
mountain haven renowned for its scenery and atmospheric camp. Situated in a
spectacular section of the uKhahlamba-Drakensberg Park, the main activities
revolve around mountain hiking and day walks with many scenic trails. The
Emadundwini Trail (12 kilometers) is highly recommended and other hikes include
the Eagle, Falls, Canyon and Jacobs Ladder Trails. Various routes to the
mountain passes are also available, taking you up to the escarpment.
The exceptional natural beauty of the
uKhahlamba-Drakensberg Park is evident in its soaring basaltic buttresses,
golden sandstone ramparts, rolling high altitude grasslands, steep-sided river valleys,
and rocky gorges. The area has incredibly rich biodiversity including man
endemic species.
This spectacular natural landscape also has many rock shelters,
containing the largest and most concentrated group of paintings in Africa,
south of the Sahara. These were created by the San people over a period of at least 40
years. The rock paintings are outstanding in quality and diversity representing
the spiritual life of the San people who no longer live the region.
The name Lotheni first became
known to the farmers who lived close to the mountains when patrols were
organized to recover cattle which had been stolen by Bushmen raiders as early
as 1847. These marauders descended the Hlatimba Pass from Lesotho and followed
the Lotheni River and were bold enough to steal cattle from as distant a point
as Karkloof. Something had to be done to prevent these raiders from passing
through the unprotected Lotheni.
Eventually in 1859 Chief Lugaju and his tribe
were resettled in the Impendhle district to act as a buffer zone between the
farmers and the raiders. Bushmen raids then ceased.
Settlers, mainly
from the British Isles, were attracted to the midlands of Natal and some even
ventured into the foothills of the Drakensberg, especially once they found that
they were safe from the Bushmen since no raids had been reported after 1872.
The pioneers who first settled in the upper reaches of the Lotheni in 1890 were
the McLeans and the Brookes. A while later the Laurens family arrived, followed
by the Root family.
When Charlie
Laurens established a home in the Lotheni, he set about creating a settlement
for friends and relatives from the Channel Isles. A survey was carried out but
the expected settlers never arrived.
During the
severe rinderpest outbreak of 1894, Colonel Wilson from Underberg, with his black
scouts, were send to Lotheni to prevent cattle from the north infecting stock
in the southern part of the mountains. In the Nature Reserve there is a shelter
called the Piket where the Colonel and his men were stationed for almost a
year.
That was not the only crisis during those
exciting years in the Upper Lotheni. In 1873 during the Langalibalele
Rebellion, Major Dunford and his force traversed the Lotheni Valley and then
ascended the Hlatimba Pass.
The origin
of the name Lotheni is uncertain, but the opinion is that it was derived from
the deposits of the dark shales so common in the valley and locally referred to
as “oil shale”. To the black people these shales look burnt, hence the name
“Mlotheni” or “In the Ashes”.
The Lotheni Reserve is well known to trout
fishermen who delight in casting their colorful flies into the cold, shallow
waters of the Lotheni hoping to catch a prize brown trout, while in the
distance antelope graze unmolested.
What could
be better to sit outside your chalet in the camp and to admire the magnificent
view of the distant hazy peaks, with Giant’s Castle dominating the lesser
peaks, the Tent, Hawk and Redi. From a particular angle the life-like shape of
the Eagle adds to the charm of the Valley of the Lotheni.
Accommodation - Lotheni Hutted Camp
The comfortable hutted camp, electrically lit by
generator from 17:00- 22:00, consists of 12 self-contained chalets:
Each with its own refrigerator, two- plate gas stove (with a small
oven), bathroom, and toilet.
In addition to the chalets there are 2 six-bed fully
self-contained cottages.
Visitors must bring all their own food supplies and do their own
cooking.
The nearest source of provision is at the Lotheni store, which is
14 km form the camp.
The curio shop at Lotheni supplies some basic groceries.
A deep-freeze is situated in the camp kitchen and is available for
use by camp visitors, as is a single large gas stove.
Accommodation - Simes Cottage
Simes cottage is a converted old farm house and can accommodate 10
people in four rooms.
It is equipped with gas and visitors do their own cooking and need
to bring their own towels, sheets, and pillow-slips.
The cottage is situated next to a small dam, which is regularly
stocked with trout.
The dam is reserved exclusively for visitors staying at Simes
cottage.
Accommodation - Campsites
There is a campground containing 14 campsites and served by an
ablution block with hot and cold water, situated 2 km from the camp, further up
the Lotheni Valley into the mountains.
Activities in Lotheni
Wildlife
includes species such as common and mountain reedbuck, grey reedbuck, eland,
grey duiker, Oribi, Cape clawless otter, mongoose and baboon. There is a
diversity of birds, including black stork, verreaux’s eagle, bearded vulture,
lanner falcon, Cape vulture, and giant kingfisher.
Many
delightful walks and climbs may be undertaken and there are excursions of this
nature to suit all ages. It is advisable to carry warm clothing at all times as
the weather is often unpredictable.
Multi-day
hiking is ideal to explore this stunningly beautiful area.
Mountain
biking is allowed in designated areas. Picnicking is popular and visitors are
encouraged to take packed lunches with them.
Although
chilly, swimming in the Lotheni River is safe unless it is in flood. There is a
very good swimming spot approximately 1 km below the camp at Cool Pools.
The park
is popular rendezvous for trout fishermen. Approximately 16 km of the Lotheni
River is stocked with brown trout. Should you wish to fish, the payment of a
daily rod fee is required to be made at the Camp Office. Only fly tackle is
permissible.
Gelib Tree Mountain Bike
Trail
This 8 km Mountain Bike Trail starts close to the camp and
crosses over several small streams, taking one up and down a few fairly steep,
winding gradients.
Once on the grassland plateau, breathtaking views of the
surrounding escarpment can be absorbed at length.
The historic Gelib Tree is passed on route and is an ideal
rest point. The trail ends near the reserves entrance gate and a short ride in
the direction of the camp brings one to the day visitor area. Here the three
museum buildings may be visited and barbeque facilities are also available. A
short stroll down to the river ends in the Flat Rock pools where a refreshing
swim can be enjoyed. The energetic cyclist can cycle a further four kilometers
along the tar road back to the camp. Alternatively family or friends can meet
cyclists at the museum. No extra charge is presently levied for use of the
Mountain Bike Trail.
The Emandundwini Trail
This Trail starts at the reception gate area and it is
approximately 12 km in length. Take the Trail to the Lotheni River via the
Tebetebe suspension bridge. Once across the river, follow the trail to the
left. The route is circular and takes you through a variety of habitats
including protea savanna, indigenous afro-montane forest, and grassland plains.
A number of small streams have to be crossed and there are a number of steep
inclines along the route. The trail offers spectacular views of the surrounding
Drakensberg. Approximately half way along the trail one has the opportunity to
wander through a section of indigenous forest. This forest is a good rest point
and is excellent for bird watching. The trail is well marked and distances are
regularly given.
The trail should take about six hours to complete, this will
also allow for a number of rest stops. A brochure on the trail is available
from reception.
The Eagle Trail
The Eagle Trail starts from the gravel road between the
hutted camp and the campsite and ends at Simes cottage. It is approximately
12,8 km and takes about six hours to complete if one includes a number of rest
stops. The trail starts with a long, fairly steep, incline. Along the route
sections of afro-montane forest and protea savanna are passed, providing a
diversity of plant life, which in turn attract a variety of bird life.
Spectacular scenery of the high 'Berg can be seen along the length of the
trail. At the highest point the trail doubles back along a grassland plateau and
then winds down to the Lotheni River. The course of the river is then followed,
until the trail ends near Simes cottage. At one point along the Lotheni River a
large waterfall is passed and there are numerous pools for swimming. The trail
is well marked and easy to follow. A brochure on the trail is available from
reception.
The Jacobs Ladder Trail
This Trail starts at the reception office and is about 2 km
long. It is an easy-going trail with only a few short inclines. It is highly recommended
especially for family groups. The trail takes you over the Lotheni River via
the Tebetebe suspension bridge and then runs parallel to the Lotheni River. The
falls themselves are found upstream of a small stream, which runs into the
Lotheni River. There is a large pool at the bottom of the falls perfect for
swimming. The trail is well marked and it is necessary to cross the Jacobs
River a number of times.
Canyon Trail
The Canyon Trail allows visitors access to the steep sided
canyon, which is situated along the Bhodla River. The 12 km trail starts
approximately 500 m from the museum, on the road to the camp. It takes you past
the Gelib Tree, then winds up the mountain slope and leads onto a long
grassland plateau.
Once on the top of the plateau the going is very easy with
the trail ending above the canyon itself. The trail offers spectacular views of
the Lotheni valley and the Hawk and Tent peaks as well as the Hlatimba Buttress
on the escarpment. The more adventurous may find a route into the base of the
canyon and follow the river up to a spectacular cascading waterfall, passing
forest patches bursting with life en-route.
Gelib Tree Trail
This trail starts from the same point as the Canyon trail
and is approximately 1,3 km. The trail is well marked and is an easy climb,
ending at the historic Gelib Tree. From the Gelib tree you have a good view of
waterfalls on the opposite valley and also of the high Berg.
Settler's Museum
Visitors should make a point of visiting the Lotheni Settler’s
Homestead Museum. An interesting collection of early settler farming implements
and home utensils is on display at the old Root homestead, which has been
restored and refurnished in the style of the period.
General
No pets are permitted in the park.
Camping anywhere other than in designated areas is forbidden.
Gate entry time:
Summer (1 October- 31 March) 05: 00- 19:00
Winter (1 April- 30 September) 6:00- 18:00
The making of fire is strictly prohibited, except in designated
areas in the camp and campsite, because of the hazard of veld fires.
Hikers are reminded that all refuse must be brought back to the
camp for disposal.
Hikers must complete the mountain rescue register at the camp
office before and after their hike.
Gate Opening and Closing Times:
Summer ( October to March ) 05h00 to 19h00
Winter (April to September ) 06h00 to 18h00
Office Hours:
Shop
Limited curios and supplies.
Special Precautions:
The weather is subject to change at short notice and can
become very cold. Hikers need to be well equipped.
The nearest town which has a full range of services is
Underberg which is 50 kms away.
How to get there:
From the south turn-off on the N3 at the Underberg Bulwer on
R617 and proceed to Underberg. Lotheni is 50 kms away on a gravel road except
for the first 5 kms. From the north turn off the N3 to Nottingham Road and
follow the signs in the village . The reserve is 62 kms away about half of
which is gravel.
Pets are not permitted into the reserve.
"No entry fees will be charged for visits by
KwaZulu-Natal (KZN) Primary and Secondary School groups, from KZN Schools to
KZN Protected Areas and St Lucia Crocodile Center provided that such visits:
1. Are authorized by
the Head of the school
2. Are booked in
advance with the Officer in Charge of the Protected Area or Crocodile
3 . Do not take place over weekends, during KZN Provincial
school holidays or Public Holidays".
The End.
Safe Hiking.
References and Acknowledgements
From the book – N/A
Photos: ©Willem Pelser
Compiled by Willem
Pelser
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