Quathlamba
“A mass of Spears. Named
thus by the Zulu warriors before the white man came. Today called the
Drakensberg, Mountains of the Dragon. Evocative names, both equally applicable
to South Africa’s mightiest mountain range with its spear-like peaks –
reminiscent of the saw-toothed spine of a gigantic dragon.”
“Listen to the streams as they gurgle from their cradles and you will hear
the story of the mountains. You will hear fascinating tales if only you listen!
Lie next to a stream and listen to the song of the mountains. The smiling faces
of the flowers, dancing in the wind. Venture into the remote valleys or stand
on a peak at sunrise or sunset, after snow has fallen, and you will hear a song
that you will never forget - the Song of the High Mountain".
DRAKENSBERG WILDERNESS
PHOTOS © WILLEM PELSER
“COURAGE IS
FEAR THAT HAS SAID ITS PRAYERS.”
UNKNOWN
CATHEDRAL
PEAK
DRAKENSBERG
The
Cathedral Peak range, with its numerous free-standing peaks and magnificent
scenery, is one of the most favored parts of the Berg for backpacking and
rock-climbing. Bordered in the north and north-west by the Upper Tugela
Township and in the south by the Mdedelelo Wilderness, the area is dominated by
the spire-like Cathedral Peak after which it is named. Popular routes include
Cathedral Peak itself, the Organ Pipes, and Ndedema Gorge with its wealth of
rock paintings.
The scenery
of this area is dominated by the massive Cathedral Range, also known as the
Ridge of Horns. This 4 km-long row of free-standing peaks includes some of the
most spectacular peaks in South Africa such as Cathedral Peak, Bell, Outer
Horn, Inner Horn, and the Chessman. Two other well-known spectacular
free-standing peaks, the Column and Pyramid are situated south-west of Didima
camp. The peaks of the escarpment here are all over 3 000 m and include names
like Ndumeni Dome, Castle Buttress, Cleft Peak, Cockade, Elephant, and
Mlambonja Buttress. Access to the escarpment is along any of a number of
passes, the more popular being the Organ Pipes, the Camel, and the Thuthumi
passes.
One of
the most popular excursions in this part of the Berg is an ascent of Cathedral
Peak. Approximately eight to nine hours should be allowed for this fairly
strenuous round trip of about 18 km. The final section involves a C grade
scramble and is, therefore, not recommended for inexperienced backpackers. On a
clear day the view from the summit is magnificent with Cathkin Peak in the
south and Eastern Buttress in the north clearly visible. Immediately below you,
to the south-east, the scenery is dominated by the deep valley carved by the
Mlambonja River.
Cathedral Peak
is the only Berg area where you can drive to the top of the Little Berg,
bringing you much closer to the escarpment. Access to the Little Berg is via
Mike’s Pass, a 10,5 km long jeep track which was built between 1947 and 1949.
The pass, which climbs some 500 m, ends at the Arendsig gate and was named
after a research officer.
The head
of the Ndedema Valley is about 10 km from the Arendsig Gate along easy terrain.
The gorge has been described by the international authority on rock art, the
late Harald Pager, as the richest rock art area in the world. He recorded over
3 900 individual rock paintings in 17 shelters and published his research
findings and lifelike tracings in the classical work Ndedema.
Sebayeni Cave
is the first shelter in the sandstone band on the southern side of the valley.
It is the largest of the painted shelters in the gorge, containing more than 1
100 individual paintings, a large number of which has unfortunately faded. The
site was first discovered in 1929, but was ‘lost’ for a number of years before
it was ‘rediscovered’ by Alex Wilcox, an authority on the rock art of South
Africa.
Ndedema means
“place of reverberations”, a likely reference to the thundering noise caused by
the river when in flood. There are a number of caves with paintings to explore.
Another popular
route is to ascend the escarpment via Organ Pipes Pass, the start of which is
some 2,5 km before you reach Ndedema Gorge. Over the next 6,5 km you will gain
more than 900 m in altitude, passing an assembly of spires and buttresses known
as the “Ridge of the Soldiers”. It has been suggested that the name could be
reference to the fluted columns which could conjure up visions of a regiment of
soldiers standing to attention or could be derived from a tradition which
associated it with military action. The columns echo when you shout or yodel
and this natural phenomenon was used to maintain contact between the Zulu and
the Basotho. One such instance was in 1823 when the Basotho sought the help of
Shaka.
The End.
Safe Hiking.
References
and Acknowledgements
From
the book – Hiking Trails of Southern Africa,
Willie Sandra Olivier.
Photos: ©Willem
Pelser
Compiled by: Willem
Pelser
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