Quathlamba
“A mass of Spears. Named
thus by the Zulu warriors before the white man came. Today called the
Drakensberg, Mountains of the Dragon. Evocative names, both equally applicable
to South Africa’s mightiest mountain range with its spear-like peaks –
reminiscent of the saw-toothed spine of a gigantic dragon.”
“Listen to the streams as they gurgle from their cradles and you will hear
the story of the mountains. You will hear fascinating tales if only you listen!
Lie next to a stream and listen to the song of the mountains. The smiling faces
of the flowers, dancing in the wind. Venture into the remote valleys or stand
on a peak at sunrise or sunset, after snow has fallen, and you will hear a song
that you will never forget - the Song of the High Mountain".
DRAKENSBERG WILDERNESS
PHOTOS © WILLEM PELSER
“NORMALITY IS
A PAVED ROAD: IT’S COMFORTABLE BUT NO FLOWERS GROW ON IT.”
Vincent van Gogh
MHKOMAZI WILDERNESS
DRAKENSBERG
This wilderness area in
the central and southern Drakensberg stretches between Giant’s Castle Nature
Reserve in the north and Sani Pass in the south. Covering some 54 000 ha, it is
traversed by deeply incised gorges and valleys that give the landscape a
distinctly rugged appearance. The High Berg is not as accessible as other areas
of the Berg and is consequently not as well-known as the more popular areas
further north.
Highmoor camp, the northernmost access point, is reached
by following the signposted road from Rosetta to Kamberg Nature Reserve. About
30 km beyond Rosetta the route forks – keep to the right along the road which
leads to Ntabamhlope. Almost immediately after this fork, you turn left.
Continue along this road to Highmoor Reserve, about 10 km further.
In the south the wilderness area can be
approached from the Lotheni and Vergelegen nature reserves. The Lotheni Reserve
is situated on the Nottingham Road/Himeville road. From the turn-off it is
about 16 km to the rest camp. Access to Vergelegen Reserve is along the
Nottingham/Himeville route.
Scenically the area is more rugged than the
southern Drakensberg. The spurs of the Little Berg extend further east from the
escarpment than they do further north and the area is characterized by numerous
rivers which have carved deep valleys. Soaring buttresses and several unnamed
peaks of over 3 000 m dominate the escarpment.
Despite the rugged nature of the area there
are numerous footpaths, which are mainly restricted to the river valleys and
the occasional spur. It is often necessary to boulder-hop up a valley to reach
higher ground from where you can enjoy the beautiful views of the escarpment.
There are access routes to the escarpment via some passes.
Although the terrain mainly lends itself to
one- or two-day hikes, it is possible to undertake a four-day traverse to Sani
Pass.
The first day’s hike initially takes you along
the Lotheni River Valley which was used as early as 1847 by San stock raiders.
They drove their booty up the tributaries of the Lotheni River. Taking the left
hand path, go pass Yellowwood Cave to the contour path. Follow the contour path
for 4 km to an intersection just below Redi Pass where there is a suitable
overnight spot. The day covers 14 km and an 850 m gain in altitude.
On the second day continue for about 5,5 km
before ascending steeply along the Hlatimba Pass to the escarpment. From the
top of the pass you will follow the escarpment in a southerly direction for
about 1 km to Lynx Cave. The second day covers 8,5 km and a 500 m gain in
altitude.
On the third day you will follow the
escarpment in a south-westerly direction to reach the head of the Mlahlangubo
Pass after about 1 km. The route takes you down the pass and you will lose some
600 m in altitude before joining the contour path. Turn right and less than 1
km further on, right again, following a winding path for about 2 km before
crossing the first Ngaqamadolo Pass. About 1 km onwards the second pass is
reached, but you will continue along the footpath in a westerly direction,
passing the Rock Arch and crossing numerous streams below the Saddle. Ignore
the turn-off to the Mhkomazi River 4 km later and continue for another 2 km to
the Mhkomazi Pass which is reached 14 km beyond Lynx Cave. This is a good place
to pitch camp.
If you opt to camp at the Mhkomazi River
junction, Kaula cave is probably the best spot to break the remaining 25 km
into two more manageable days.
From the Nhlangeni River you will head for
a sulpher spring which is reached 2 km further on and you will no doubt find
the thermal water very therapeutic. Continue up the river valley for 3 km
before turning left to reach the Burnera Ridge junction 5 km further. Turn
right here and, after about 1 km turn left, following a path below the Pillars
to reach Koko Tabagi Ridge 4 km beyond the previous junction. Here you will
cross the Mzimkhulwana Reserve and after traversing below the Twelve Apostles
for about 6 km you will cross the Mkhomazana or Little Mhkomazi River shortly
before joining the Sani Pass road. The junction is about 4 km beyond the South
African Police Services Post.
The End.
Safe Hiking.
References
and Acknowledgements
From
the book – Hiking Trails of Southern Africa,
Willie & Sandra Olivier.
Photos: ©Willem
Pelser
Compiled by: Willem
Pelser
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