Drakensberg Wilderness Hiking South Africa - Mountain of the Dragons - Where Adventure beckons.....: THE MNWENI - DRAKENSBERG

“HIKING TRIALS ARETHE RANDOM

WRITING ON THE WALL

THAT TELLS HOW EVERY
MAN,

GROWN TIRED AT HEART

OF THINGS CORRECT AND
ORDERED,

COMES TO SCRAWL

HIS HAPPY HOUR DOWN –

THEN GOES TO START
LIFE OVER

WITH EAGERNESS AND
YEST,

WHO BUILTS A TRIAL

FIND LABOR THAT IS
REST!”

UNKNOWN

Rugged summits of the Rockeries Pinnacles

THE MNWENI

DRAKENSBERG

PLACE OF FINGERS

South of the Royal Natal Park, and stretching as far as the Cathedral Peak spur, an exciting and wild stretch of mountainous country awaits you. The imaginative tribes call this area the Mnweni – ‘the Place of Fingers”. This is where the numerous eroded peaks and pinnacles were carved by the winds of time into various shapes and sizes, each vying with its neighbor to match the mighty Mponjwana, and where, far below, the deeply incised river valleys greedily gather the waters rushing from the mountain slopes, ever racing through the maze of valleys eventually to join the Tugela.

It was here that the remnants of the Amangwane tribe settled. Today they live side by side with the Amazisi. The picturesque setting of the grass beehive huts and the primitive ox-drawn sledges, with the Drakensberg as backdrop, adds beauty to the enchanting and mysterious valleys of the Mnweni.

The gateway to the northern part of this area is along a rough gravel road which winds up the Singati Valley between the prominent sandstone hill Ehlankomo to the south and a well-known ridge to the north, the crest of which has been eroded into a group of amazing life-like forms, the Frog, Tortoise, Crocodile and Sleeping Beauty, best viewed from Royal Natal National Park. The road follows the Singati River and from the end of this road a path leads to the Singati Cave. Bushman paintings were removed from this shelter many years ago and displayed at the Royal Natal National Park during the Royal visit in 1947. High above the cave, the Singati Wall and Mount Amery are part of the Main Berg.

To take the traveler into the main Mnweni valley there is a turn-off opposite the Rookdale Mission on the main Bergville-Mont-aux-Sources national road. No hotels, guest houses, or camp sites are to be found in the remote valleys.

The Mnweni hit the headlines in April 1953 when it was the scene of a dramatic mountain rescue. A party of experienced mountaineers set off from Cathedral Peak Hotel and for the Mponjwana Cave from which they were to climb on the Rockeries. One climber, who was not feeling well on the first leg of their journey, became delirious in the Mponjwana Cave. Alarmed by his condition, one climber set off at great speed back to the Hotel to get help, leaving one climber to care for him, whose condition was deteriorating. After an amazing dash in incredible time, a rescue party arrived at the cave and wasted no time in getting the climber down to Rockeries Pass. How the rescue party must have battled and struggled down a pass where the path is rugged and narrow will never be known. Tired, hungry and cold after crossing the Ntonjelana River which was in flood, they arrived at the end of the road where an ambulance was waiting. Although the climber survived this ordeal, he died at Ladysmith Hospital.

North and South Peaks of the Saddle

In February 1956 the Mnweni once again splashed the headlines when five policemen were brutally murdered by a mob of angry Amangwane tribesmen after dagga had been discovered and confiscated.

Beyond the old Moliva Store there is a divide – the confluence of the Ntonjelana and Mnweni rivers.

For the mountaineer who would like to enjoy probably the finest escarpment walk in South Africa, a trip from Mount-aux Sources to Cathedral Peak is a must. By leaving the hut on the Amphitheater and walking due south one can find a bridle path, which meets the escarpment edge near the Mnweni Pinnacles, but much of the best mountain scenery is missed using this route. A most rewarding route is to travel south, as previously described, and then to travel east behind some high ground behind Mount Amery. This route brings one to the Singati Wall. From the south-eastern end of the wall the Eastern Buttress, Devil’s Tooth, Inner Tower and Mount Amery can be seen. Mount Amery was named after Colonel L S Amery who climbed to the summit during the Anglo Boer war in the 1900 and later held high office in Britain.

Clouds enveloping the escarpment, Mbundini area

A party of climbers arrived on the top of the Amphitheater during Easter 1930 to open the Natal Mountain Club hut, which was completed mainly thanks to the help of Otto Zunckel of the National Park. The next morning members walked across to the peak that Colonel Amery had ascended in 1900 and the peak was christened Mount Amery by pouring a bottle of petrol over the cairn. All the available liquor had been drunk the previous night when they celebrated the opening of the hut.

Below the south-eastern end of the Singati Wall is Mount Oompie named after Oompie Liddle, who first climbed the peak in July 1924.

From the Singati Wall the escarpment runs due south, past the Incidi Pass, which leads down past the Incidi Pinnacles and a path follows the Incidi River and finally leads to the old Moliva Store. Near the top of the Pass the Incidi Cave is a useful shelter in the event of bad weather, useful because there is not much shelter in this part. The main Incidi Buttress faces due south and overlooks the Incidi Valley. From the edge there are some excellent views of the peaks to the south.

A footpath sometimes referred to as the Incidi Pass, follows the Incidi River, and eventually joins the Mnweni River. Jubilee Cave can be found almost halfway between the escarpment and the Mnweni River.

Singati Wall and Mount Amery (wedge shaped peak)

From this point the walk, following the edge of the escarpment, is most pleasant as the Stimela Ridge and Stimela Peak are traversed. The Amangwane below are adamant that the peak and ridge resemble the old steam mail train, hence the name Stimela.

Still travelling south along the edge of the escarpment the Mbundini Buttress and the Mbundini Abbey cannot be missed. Separated from the Abbey is the Abbey Spire and below a fantastic array of smaller spires and pinnacles which ornate the Abbey, grimly withstanding the forces which will eventually send them crashing one by one to the valley below. Between the Buttress and Abbey a foot- pass leads down past the Mbundini Cave and joins the Mnweni near Shepherd’s Cave. From the Abbey a detour is necessary to avoid the Mbundini cutback. There are two passes which descend to the valley below. About 76 meters below the escarpment, in the right wall of the highest main side gully is Fangs Cave. Not far from the cave are the Fangs and the Molar.

Inner and Outer Mnweni Needles and Mponjwana from the Mbundini Abbey

At the southern section of the cutback is Renqwa Peak – named after a chief in the Upper Tugela Location. Between Renqwa and Black-and-Tan Wall is the Renqwa Pass. A cave is situated about 61 meters from the top of the pass. To reach this shelter a scramble up the southern part of the gully is necessary.

Tucked away, and hidden from the foothills below, is the deepest cutback along the whole length of the Drakensberg. Remote, rugged and mysterious this deep “Mnweni Cutback” can boast of more pillars, columns, spires, minarets, and rocky formations than any other single recess. Here one is forced to circumvent the cutback in order to see the source of the Orange River as well as the Rockeries.

Rockeries Pinnacles, Cathedral Peak, Bell, Outer Horn and North Peak Saddle from top of the Rockeries Pass

After this impressive sight a walk round the edge of the cutback reveals a spire, “uCikicane”, which is the Zulu word for “little finger”. Now also in view are the Twelve Apostles and Eeny-Meeny-Miny-Mo. The latter group is close to the Mnweni Pass, leading down to the Mnweni River. The top of the pass is the best place from which to view the Mnweni Pinnacles lying to the west.

The Mnweni Pinnacles are elusive. They seldom reveal their true magnitude and their beautiful form unless seen from the top of the pass or from Black-and-Tan Wall or from Renqwa. The inner Mnweni Pinnacle is spear like in shape and gives the impression that it is the more difficult climb of the two.

Source of the Orange River

The Outer Mnweni Pinnacle, which is broader at the base and does not look as difficult as the Inner Pinnacle, was first climbed in December 1948.

This is still rated as one of the most difficult and exposed climbs in the Berg. The route taken has not been climbed again but, in March 1959, the Outer Pinnacle was climbed by the Eastern-Arête, which is an easier route. Below the Outer Pinnacle is Mount Neefie, a perfect complement to Mount Oompie.

The source of the Orange River is a saucer-shaped depression that lies between the head of the Mnweni Pass and the high ridge above Mponjwana Cave.

Eroded pillars, pinnacles, and spires deep in the Mnweni Cutback

At this point parties traversing the Berg are inclined to by-pass the Rockeries area. But in doing so they certainly miss some of the grandest scenery in the Range.

The pride of Mnweni is the Rockeries, with their pinnacles, classified A to H, and the gigantic free-standing Mponjwana Peak, opposite the Mponjwana Cave which lies just below the escarpment.

Rockeries and Mponjwana from Maquela’s Kraal

South of the Rockeries is the Rockeries Pass which leads down the Ntonjelana Eshonalanga, past Maquela’s Kraal and on to Moliva’s store. Between the Rockeries and the Cathedral Spur a prominent buttress, called the Saddle, can be recognized from a great distance away. The Saddle has a North Peak and a South Peak, both of which are separated from the escarpment. North Peak was first climbed in 1924 and South Peak in 1947.

A popular and oft-used mountain pass, the Ntonjelana Pass, has been the road used for many years by those Basotho who travel from the north-eastern highlands of Lesotho down to Moliva’s Store to replenish their supplies.

The most southern part of this Place of Fingers – the charming Mnweni – ends as we reach the Cathedral Spur.

Note

As beautiful as it is, this is no longer a safe, secure area, and great care must be taken by groups venturing into Mnweni. It is absolutely not advisable for small groups. Check the security situation beforehand; enquire at the various reserve offices.

We as hikers, explorers, and
adventurers have the absolute duty to respect and protect our Wildernesses.
Nobody else will do it for us. Take ownership!

The End.

Safe Hiking.